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2006 (October to December)

Tuesday, October 3

Dear VTwin Mama,
I just got my first bike (2002 Harley Sportster with an upgraded 1200cc engine). I took the MSF class and have been practicing on my bike for a couple of weeks. Just dropped it (again!!) yesterday. I didn't take a turn sharply enough and in my panic I rolled back on the throttle, which sent me even faster in the wrong direction. I landed in the ditch no worse for wear (except maybe my pride). I wasn't going very fast when this happened, even with the throttle mishap. I often did the same thing during my MSF class when I could see I was not turning sharply enough. Any suggestions (other than practice, practice, practice)? – Newbie

Dear Newbie,
Practice, practice, practice of course are the wisest words yet, but incorrect practice only sharpens bad habits, so let's see if we can get to the root of what's happening to you!

You're right, grabbing more throttle in a panic is not working. My best guess as to the reason this is your natural (but trainable) response is that panic tends to freeze us up. Freezing up stiffens up the body and can make us tighten our hands on  those handlebar controls even more (often referred to as a deathgrip). When your right hand clamps down, you roll the throttle. So, what to do?

First, sit on your motorcycle off the sidestand and lift your arms into position. Look at the angle of your right arm and hand to the control. Now look specifically at your wrist angle. Is it cocked up, level, or angled down? Cocked up means when you panic and grip tighter, your wrist will try to roll down, thus engaging more throttle you don't want. Either consciously position your wrist differently or, on most bikes, the handlebars can be loosened in their clamps and rotated a bit. Take a closer look and see if that might not be something to consider.

Next is retrain time. Fire up the bike at home, sit on it, and rev the engine in neutral. Now, pull in the clutch lever (still in neutral) and rev the engine. Now, with the clutch lever pulled in, shift to first, keep the clutch pulled in, and rev the engine. Omigosh, you still aren't going one single tiny hair forward. Lesson learned. The quickest way to remove inappropriate power from the bike (of which panic throttle is definitely a member of) is to pull in the clutch lever. It removes any further power from the rear drive and you can rev all you want and not hurtle with ever gaining speed towards something icky! Train your brain to think PANIC POWER, PULL IN THE CLUTCH (or something like that!).

Now let's look at the turn. My guess is that you don't have full control of your friction zone yet. This is the engage/disengage point of the clutch lever. While a full panic might warrant completely pulling in the clutch, you can modify speed also by pulling in the clutch just a portion to where the power disengages and then ease it in and out of that zone. This is called slipping the clutch. Now you can have steady throttle but choose how much of that power you want available to you. This is practice and is best done in a big empty (ditch free!) parking lot.

I'm also going to suggest that you get the Ride Like A Pro DVD. There is nothing like a visual aid and planned practice sessions to help you map out exactly the steps to take on practicing turns. Many women report that upon following this DVD they confidently can handle turns within a number of practice sessions. Give that a thought! – Mama

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Friday, October 6

Hi VTwin Mama,
My wife just started riding 6 months ago and went through having fear of turns. For her it was mostly right turns. But was scared of both. I followed her to watch what she was doing and found she was trying to lean the bike, not herself.

We went and watched videos of bike races for a couple of hours. Pointing out that they move their butt (first) and then their body toward the direction of the turn.When they start around the turn the bike leans what it needs to in order to make the turn (you don’t try to lean the bike).

She went back out on her bike, and for the first time, by just moving her butt toward the direction of the turn she had no problems turning. A real breakthrough for her. She is 52 and never figured she would even ride on the back of a motorcycle as well as own and drive one regularly. I hope this may help some of your readers.

How we found your website is Elizabeth (finally a name) parked her bike out side of our garage in the dirt and it fell off the stand. We’ll, she couldn’t pick it up by herself. She finally got the neighbor to help her. I said I would look on the Internet for the proper way to pick up a motorcycle. I can’t pick one of mine up either. So we both wanted to learn. And I found your terrific site. Thank you, – Steve

Dear Steve,
I'm glad you found the VTwin Mama site and enjoyed your initial visit! I always say that some techniques can be described in multiple ways until finally one set of words or visual makes the light click on! Your input is interesting . . . by shifting one's derriere (our body's center of gravity is at our hips), it cocks the hip the smallest amount, but enough to set the lean in motion. I've often noted that an experienced rider can do the same by pressing a knee inward (from the opposite side), which again cocks the hip. It's truly amazing how responsive the bike will be, but you've got to get the motion started one way or another. For many, it's the pressing of the hand a bit harder on the handlebar to set the motion, but again, it boils down to a shift in our body position. It's such a small amount! Learning how our body's position impacts the movement of the bike starts the process of "oneness" . . . a goal for us all.

I'm equally enthused that a challenge your wife had led you to research solutions for her benefit, as well as your own. Yahoo to you and thank you for supporting Elizabeth's entry into the wonderful adventure in riding. May you have many happy miles together! – Mama

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Tuesday, October 17

Dear VTwin Mama,
If this video (Ken & Susan, Sept 10th 2006 ride, Hwy 33 to Lockwood Valley) doesn't chase away the rainy fall blues, I don't know what else would . . . enjoy . . . – Debby

Dear Debby,
It's a beautiful dance of riders on a Goldwing doing some nice curves . . . thanks for sharing! It made me want to go ride today, but as it looks like rain, this brought a smile to my face! – Mama

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Wednesday, October 18

Input on that Hwy 33 to Lockwood (CA) video posted:

I rode that road with another V-Twin Mama girl -- Gloria -- just a few weeks ago!! We had so much fun.  We each got a room in Ojai and had a great time in the little town.  They were going through the fires and the Lockwood road was closed but we still hit 33 and the Ojai Deer Lodge Inn where all the bikes go.  The ride home was my first in pouring rain.  It's about a 3 hour ride depending on stops. Gloria rides to work a lot and laughed at me not being prepared for the rain.  It was 90 degrees when we left on Friday and by Sunday the rain came down.  But . . . even being scared at first about the ride in the rain,  I ended up loving it!  We laughed at each other when we ate and left the restaurant with paper towels to dry the seats off -- we were soaked anyway, so it made no sense.  I was a lot more aware than I ever thought I would be in rain . . . and no one really driving in it . . . so it was like having a good part of the road to ourselves.  Enjoyable! Anyway, it was nice watching it from another persons ride! – Kathy H. in So. California (note from Mama: how wonderful to get your first real rain ride in low traffic conditions! It sounds like a lovely stretch of road!)

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Monday, October 30

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have a cornering question: I purchased the Ride Like a Pro DVD (and the Mean Streets one, too!) after seeing them listed on your site. I understand the training exercises but I wondered if using the friction zone and the back brake is appropriate during street rides to maneuver tight corners at under 20MPH speeds? In the MSF class we learned to slow, look, press, and roll. – Mary

Dear Mary,
At stake here is the "slow" portion that the MSF is talking about. Control of speed of course can be achieved a wide variety of ways and combinations of ways!

First, one can simply let off the throttle. One can also apply gentle brake. One could also downshift. And at the very "lowest end" is use of the friction zone to slip power in and out (the engage/disengage portion of our clutch control).

The correct use of brakes is highly important. If we use the front brake while moving more slowly in a curve or turn, it has a tendency to pull us further down. That's where the back brake (light application) comes in handy . . . it has the handling characteristic of keeping the bike (and us) more upright. In a straight line, one used the front brake for maximum braking power and where jamming on the rear brake can cause a rear wheel skid (slide-out to the right).

It is my understanding that the MSF BasicRider Course does not really get in to the use of the rear brake . . . so much already to learn . . . this is addressed more in the Experienced RiderCourse they offer. So, work on your basics and as you practice the techniques shown in Ride Like a Pro, you will begin mastering the combinations available to you! – Mama

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2007

Monday, January 22

Dear VTwin Mama,
Yesterday was my day.  I became a "Dumper." Yup, I dumped my brand spanken new Shadow VLX Deluxe. I know I'm in good company. I read (or try to read  this web site every day). So I know I'm not the first nor will I be the last to say "I dumped my new baby."

I came around a tight turn not tight enough, shifted into second and was on the wrong side of the road. (as you can see there was NOTHING I did right!). I ended up on the far side of the road heading into a pole. So I laid her down. I didn't really want to see how far my head would bend that pole since this is a road I travel on daily and those are not the memories I'm trying to make right now. To make matters worse I was in walking distance to my house.

A very nice man and his wife stopped to see if I was ok, aside from my pride and a broken finger nail (can you imagine) I was fine. Now I had to get the bike up. If you think I looked stupid with a bike sleeping on the wrong side of the road, you should have seen me trying to call my husband with my helmet still on and forgetting I'm not on speaker phone. OY, do the mistakes ever end?? 

The nice people went around the corner to get him but he was on his way over. Since I only got the bike yesterday, and he told me he never wanted to get THE phone call that I was hurt and I dumped the bike. Well, guess what honey? Who knew in less than 24 hours that he would get that call. When he turned that corner and he saw me standing and yes I had the bike up already (on my own, thank you VTM and adrenaline) this man had tears in his eyes. He pictured me on the corner hurt and crying.  But, he walked up to me and smiled, kissed me and then congratulated me. 

Can you imagine? I wasn't announcing I was pregnant, idiot, I just dumped my brand new bike! He was proud of the fact that I dumped her and my legs weren't underneath her, I wasn't crying :-) and I was sitting on her to get her going again. As I rode away, I told him he has to pay for another manicure.

Since I'm addicted to VTM.com, I know what I did wrong, and knew I had to get right back on her! Thank you to VTM and all of the other women who share their good and bad experiences . . .  it does help.

So if anyone can tell me how to do a "safe" dump and not break a nail, that would be more helpful information for me!!! – Suzy

Dear Suzy,
A safe dump is any dump that allows you to walk away from the bike without major injuries! It sounds like you sized up the impending situation and with your current skills and knowledge level, did the best thing possible to avoid something worse. Kudos to you! And big hugs to your husband for not making this situation more scary for you. I know that you're going back to the drawing board to work on those tighter curves/turns. That's the spirit!

And now, by sharing your first-hand account, you are helping the next person to understand that the oopsies happen and can be overcome, just like previous letters helped you maintain perspective (a word I seem to be using a lot today!).

A new manicure is a small price to pay for learning something important about your adventure in riding! – Mama

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Thursday, January 25

For Suzy who had her first oopsie dump:

The best advice I can give to her is, especially if this is a "brand spankin' new bike," she should take it to a nice, big quiet parking lot to get to know the dynamics of the new bike. And if she hasn't taken a safety course, like the BRC or "Gearing Up" in Canada . . . then she should! Those courses are vital and provide a great foundation for all riders to build on. Then she should practice all of her turns, emergency stops and essentials on the new bike that you need on the street to prevent you from having to "lay it down." Something else she may want to work on is "target fixation." It sounded like she felt as if she was in over her head when she made the turn, then fixated on the pole. You need to look where you want to go. Good Luck. – Gracie (note from Mama: yes, incorrect target fixation can be a real problem when things are going wrong. One way to train the brain is when practicing those turns in a parking lot as correct slow turns require that both your head and eyes look through the turn to where you wish to end up. I'll also note that having a friend watch this move will quickly provide correct feedback . . . many times we think we're looking through, but actually we look at a half way point first, or we shift our head back and forth. When done correctly, one chooses a safe, correct spot to finalize the turn at, and why I think it might help to realign the brain to scan for the safest "end" spot when quick, evasive moves are needed.)

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Friday, January 26

More for Suzy who had her first oopsie dump:

I agree with Gracie about the target fixation.  However Suzy doesn't say what she was riding before graduating to her new VLX.  That's a lotta horsepower, and if she was riding a 600 before, it's a big jump in throttle control.  I know, cause I went from a 600 to a 1475 after only 4 months on the 600.  Find a big parking lot and practice the throttle control, turns, stops, starts, figure eights, etc.  Go to a refresher course if she's already been thru the basic course, and if not, then go to the basic course.  Although most basic courses only put you on a 250, they will give you the tricks and tips and techniques to ride ANY size bike.  Above all, practice practice practice.  Hubby was spectacular for not yelling at her . . . I'm surprised she didn't have someone riding with her if the bike was brand new. There's also the possibility it could be mechanical, something could need adjustment, so she should have her dealer check over the bike just to be sure, and to be sure nothing internal was damaged in her dump. – Claire, riding a 2002 Indian Spirit (note from Mama: good points on taking s step back to assess the situation and consider a revamped approach in order to move ahead with confidence.)

From Suzy: Thank you, Gracie for your advice. You probably are right, I was fixated on that pole (and it happened so fast). Although, I did take the MSF course, it's back to the parking lot for me. – Suzy (note from Mama: good for you. Understanding that more learning is needed in order to reach the goal of safe and confident riding is the first step!)

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Tuesday, January 30

From Suzy to Claire about the target fixation oopsie:

The Honda VLX is my first and only bike. I wanted something more than a 250 and not as big as the Sportster 883/1200 a friend was trying to talk me into. I really think that would have turned out badly. Since its extremely cold here (New York) and no one in their right mind is riding, I got a pretty good deal. The next time she comes out, it's back to the dealer for "crash bars." lol At least when I drop her again (God forbid) it will be easier to pick up in that parking lot that I will be spending a lot of time in.

Everyday that I can come back to this web site, I read a little more and learn a whole lot more. I'm grateful to each and every one of you (especially you, Mama) for your invaluable advise and "comfortable" place to ask questions. Everyone has something to offer, what a great experience. – Suzy (note from Mama: crash bars do normally make a pick-up easier, and even if you don't need them for another oopsie, I think they offer a margin of protection that so many riders choose to incorporate. You're on the right track!))

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Tuesday, April 3

Dear VTwin Mama,
Well, I did it. I had my first big opps on my bike. I was riding on the back roads with my husband who just got his permit thanks to me pushing him to ride. He was going faster around turns then I usually do (he rode dirt bikes for years) and I was trying to keep up with him and got spooked and lost control . . .  hit gravel and went down. 

Before we left the house I had a bad feeling about going out and went anyway (all the time I kept thinking of you Mama telling us to listen to our guts). I had taken Tylenol PM by mistake in the morning at my bro-in-law's, came home, took a two hour nap, and my husband was dying to go for a ride. I should of stayed in bed. I broke the shifter and could not ride my bike home so I called a neighbor to come get me and my bike. 

All I can say is this was a lessen well learned, I WILL NEVER GO WHEN I FEEL AT ALL OUT OF CONTROL!!!!! I have a sore shoulder and a broken ego but I will be out there next weekend to finish my ride on the back roads. – Janine

Dear Janine,
99.9% of riders fall into this category: they have either gone down or are going to go down. Whether it's a small or big oopsie/ickie . . . it happens. This is why good riding gear (yes, it's our choice) and a helmet (choice mandated by some states, our choice in others) is so important to seriously consider.

The second part of the equation is the exact point you have so bravely shared . . . our mental (and physical) state of being affects everything. I am glad to hear that you and your motorcycle sustained only minor injuries.

A broken/bruised ego can be the greatest teacher of them all. Riding a motorcycle demands respect . . . for ourselves . . . and for our bikes. Ego busting wakes us up and is an excellent reminder that riders should always be learning, no matter how many years and miles they have on the road.

You have done us all a great service today Janine by sharing your story. Thank you. – Mama

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Monday, April 9

Dear VTwin Mama,
Well, I got back on my bike Friday after my mishap last weekend [too fast on a turn, hit gravel and went down] and rode around town. Talk about being a nervous wreck. I kept telling myself you can do this but when it came to turns I felt like I didn't know anything.

Saturday I went on the back road with my husband and I think I pissed off a few cars going around turns, I probably was going 20 mph around some of them and I am looking where I don't want to go instead of looking where I need to go.

I am going to go to a parking lot tomorrow and just practice my turns again till I feel confident about them again. I realize the way I am riding now is very dangerous. So it is back to basics for me and that is circles in a parking lot. – Janine

Dear Janine,
You have passed one of the most important tests that is the mark of a good rider . . . you realized something wasn't working for you and you had the courage to acknowledge it, determine what new steps you should take, and understand that it's imperative that your battle plan for learning always be flexible. Kudos to you! I'll always be proud to call you my sister rider! – Mama

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Wednesday, April 11

Dear VTwin Mama,
Well, I did it . . . I went back out on the road were I fell and rode right past it with no problem. When I got home I was thinking back to how I fell and I have to say a lot of it is in the mind. I will never ride again if I am not mental fully alert. Going out and conquering that turn has made me more confident and reinforced the fact that we need all our wits to ride.

When I first got my Sportster, me and my husband had a few conversations about the weight of the bike and how he believed anything bigger would be to much for me. Needless to say I got the Sportster. He got a 1972 shovelhead . . .  he rode my bike the other day just up the block and back and was shocked at how unbalanced he felt on my bike. We have concluded that in a year I get to get the Dyna Lowrider or a Fatboy. These were both my original choices. Everything does happen in baby steps. – Janine

Dear Janine,
Yahoo to you for conquering and slaying the curve dragon! I'm glad to hear that at least hubby dearest 'fessed up on his short ride conclusion . . . .either of the HD models you mention are yes, going to be heavier, but I hear that that is far out-weighed (!) by the superior center of gravity and overall balance. You're going to be in love next season! Meanwhile, learn, learn, learn because no matter anyone says, all bikes have different handling characteristics, and you want to be ready to do short practice sessions and then hit the road with the next bike! – Mama

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Tuesday, April 17

Dear VTwin Mama,
Firstly, I want to say THANK you to all of you (esp you Mama) . . .  this is THE best site ever! I have learned so much from reading the massive amount of info available here. You girls all Rock!! The camaraderie I can feel between you all is fantastic. I belong to the Ulysses Club here in Brisbane, Australia and get the same kinda thing . . .  it is so nice ( I think to be getting the same from a group of sisters would be even more special tho) ;-) !!

I really need some words of advice from you and your lovely readers. About 6 months ago I encouraged a dear friend, who is very new to riding her Virago 250 (is on Learners), to join me on the Pink Ribbon ride to help raise money for Breast Cancer. It was a huge ride -- about 1000 bikes!!! BUT . . . as much as I thought (and had also checked with the ride organizers) that a learner would cope with it . . . on a twisty left/right/left curve  (remember we ride on the other side of the road to you grrls) . . . we came across some gravel and an off camber road surface. My friend came down and ended up with 4 broken ribs and some really nasty bruising.

Now the physical wounds have healed and she has been going back to riding lessons where her instructor assures her that her skills are all fine BUT she is still feeling really shaky and is getting to the point where as much as she loves it -- she is thinking about selling her bike!!

My question is what can I do to help her??? She manages turns, slaloms and circles fine!! But put her on a sweeping corner and she is convinced she is going to straighten the bike up too soon and leave the road -- because of this she is fixating on the shoulder of the road instead of looking out of the sweep!! PLEASE help.

I feel so bad cos I encouraged her to join me on the big ride. If only I had been a little more patient she may not be facing this crisis now :-(

Love to you all, Ride Often and Stay Safe, – Maxine, aka Max

Dear Maxine,
Boy, do I KNOW how your friend feels about taking sweeping turns again . . . she seizes up, probably is taking a death grip on the handlebar, tightening her body, and as you mention, looking the wrong way. This happened to me after an accident where I missed the second part of a sweep and hurtled off the road at 70mph.

Honestly, I can say that for years after that, I always had problems with left hand sweeps as that is the side I made the mistake on (panicked, looked down at the line, and went straight off). I gritted my teeth for every left sweep I had to take.

How did I get over it? I kept riding. I KNEW what mistake I had made and continued to work on correcting the mistake. At first I had to always throttle down a lot and take that sweep slower . . . ok on a solo ride, not so great within a group, so I tended to ride at the back of the pack.

Over time, taking left sweeps slower, I was able to loosen up my body again and keep my eyes focused correctly. So what is my advice? Your friend should do as many solo rides that have sweeps, but do them at low traffic times so that she can concentrate on re-training her body for the correct technique. There is no shortcut to this process. She needs to reset her "body clock" for the sweep so it becomes naturally correct again.

After all these years (about 12) I will tell her that to this day, although I have no problems with sweeps, I do enter sweeps thinking about my technique and making sure that I'm not overly confident (in other words, I'm not taking for granted that my technique is perfect unless I am thinking of my technique and ensuring that it is perfect).

I have come to terms with the mental aspect of this and it no longer bothers me. I have incorporated the mental reality for me into my ride . . .  on solo rides I often rethink my exact technique to make sure my body position "clock" is set correctly. This continuous fine-tuning of technique is essential to me.

In my estimation, riders should always be periodically reviewing their technique, no matter what the skill is. This ensures that the mind/body are at the ready at all times.

What can you do? Encourage her. Print out this letter so that she knows she is not alone. That a rider with 27 years experience understands and that joy CAN be regained. Ride with her. Let her talk out how the sweeps are feeling each time you go out.

Some accident survivors don't want to talk about the accident right after it has happened. Some eventually want to review what happened. Remember, let her talk and for your part, keep any observations simple and drama-queen free. Talk in a calm way. Re-share what the joys are and remember good rides and times. If she is willing to do a bit of work, she can reclaim that dream that got her started in the first place. I did and am thankful I put forth the effort to do that. – Mama

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Wednesday, April 25

Dear VTwin Mama,
I just want to start off by saying thank you for such a wonderful site. [you are welcome!] I have been invited to go from Michigan to SC with a trip thru the Deals Gap Tail of the Dragon. I am not afraid of curves, yet I have this voice in the back of my head . . . it is my instructor yelling at me saying to me . . . you are going off the cliff. Look where you are going. Well, because of that I look at the road, not where I am going because I was always afraid of falling off the cliff as he put it.

After reading your page [Ride Technique: Curves] for the past hour I realize I am looking at the road so I don't cross the yellow or the white line. I am not looking where I was going as far as looking into the curves and preparing my self for the SLOW, LOOK, LEAN, and ROLL . . . I was too busy worrying about the line on the road. We have a road here in my small town that has many curves to it, no switch back but at least I am going to practice what I have read. Look at the curve and prepare my looking into the curve not at the line on the road. – Angie

Dear Angie,
I'm glad that previously posted letters on the subject of handling curves correctly has helped you realign your thinking about them. You'll do well to practice as much as possible before tackling the Dragons Tail. And no matter what anybody says, make sure you do that run at YOUR pace and nobody else's. This is not a place to try to keep up with others, whose riding experience level may be greater than yours. As you have been invited, I'm hoping that the group in fact will be assigning a rider to stay with you at YOUR pace.

Please understand that I'm not trying to scare you  . . . just the opposite . . . enjoy it but respect it! We're wishing you a wonderful trip! – Mama

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Thursday, April 26

For Angie who is working on correctly handling road curves:

Thank you Mama for reminding everyone to ride at their own pace. It just can't be repeated too often. My spouse & I have had stress-free rides since we agreed that if I'm not comfy - for any reason - with his choice of parking spots, I just go find my own. He has the option to join me or not, his call. We never, ever comment on one's personal choice. And since I'm older than, as well as the only female, among the others with whom we ride, doing my own thing is expected! – Jem (note from Mama: I like the viewpoint that riders should respect each other's choices . . . after all, while we might ride together, riding is a solo experience at the core essence of things! If we do not respect ourselves and our motorcycle, then what's it all about?!)

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Saturday, April 28

Dear VTwin Mama,
I was exiting a highway onto a ramp last Sunday, which is a 360 degree turn. I downshifted, rolled off the throttle and proceeded to take the exit ramp. Suddenly my bike went into an uncontrollable wobble and the bike and I went down . I don't know what happened. I think maybe I did not countersteer long enough to keep the tight turn or maybe I took the turn a little too fast. What is the correct way to take such a tight exit turn and survive? Thanks, – Barb

Dear Barb,
Ouch! Of course I'm going to have to do a little bit of guessing, but my thought is that the wobble was introduced when you tightened up your body and your grip on the handlebar, essentially fighting the physics of the motorcycle. Tightening up is usually because we realize we've not got the bike in correct "attitude," either in speed or countersteer, etc. It's also possible that in a little panic, you grabbed front brake to bleed off a bit more speed, which tends to pull a rider down in a turn.

A good long tight turn is always a concern for riders. It's handled the same way any curve/turn should be done, but it incorporates such a much longer timeframe to hold the position. I find it especially difficult to look fully through the turn . . . a sort of distance "vertigo" sets in . . . and it's really easy to want to look at the ground to gauge things. This is a definite no-no . . . we go were we look.

Trusting the countersteer at a steady speed, as well as looking at least 1/2 way through the full turn is the key. If a little bit of speed decrease is needed, it's the gentle tap or application of the back brake that can do this, and it also has the tendency to keep the bike upright from the leaning side (rather a pull down to the leaning side).

If this was a heavy traffic time, the added reality of cars in front and behind you comes into play. It's easy to want to keep the flow of traffic going, and someone riding your back bumper can be unnerving. Ride your ride.

Now, how is that you see riders take these things at greater speeds? Experience. They have learned to gauge the turn tightness as they approach it (or know that turn well because it's used all the time), choose a gear, work the throttle, clutch and rear brake together for control, and most importantly, look through the turn, trusting they can operate the throttle, clutch and rear brake without having to take their mind off their end point.

So, if this was a local exit, I'd choose a light traffic day/time, and work on it. Or choose a local ramp that's good and tight. YOU CAN DO IT . . . it'll just take a bit of practice! – Mama

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Tuesday, May 8

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have a 2006 HD 1200C and I am having problems with feeling secure on the bike and making turns. I have LePera lower seat and lower shocks on the back. I have the front fork lowering kit but have not had it installed yet. I am still having trouble with the balance of the bike. 

I took the MSF class on a small Honda and felt comfortable in the turns but my legs were so flexed that I had cramps in my hips. I really debated on what bike to get and had little help from my husband. A friend had a Sportster and encouraged me to get one rather that a "big bike." I was afraid of the weight of the bigger bikes so I took her advice. 

Now I fear that the Sportster feels top heavy and I am having trouble with the turns. I also am having security issues that I think may be related to the forward controls (I am 5'3", 145lb) which I got because of the cramped feeling on the small Honda and at the recommendation of others that rave about the comfort of forward controls. 

I wonder if my balance would feel more secure if I had the controls moved back so that my legs would be more under me for support. Any ideas? I want this to work but I not an aggressive person and my fears are preventing me from becoming independent on the bike. – Laura

Dear Laura,
I would definitely get that fork lowering kit installed, as it will bring the back-to-front more in line with the original "attitude" that HD had in mind.

Yes, there is continued chatter about Sportsters having a high center of gravity (top heavy), but I can assure you that HD has been working on that since 2004 or 2005. All motorcycles have their specific handling characteristics and must be practiced and learned.

So, I'm thinking you'll greatly benefit by getting the Ride Like a Pro DVD. This excellent training tool allows you to plan out training sessions, shows you how to handle slow maneuvers, and can be watched again and again as the lessons sink in. So many new and even experienced riders (myself included) picked up lots of tips to polish those skills . . . many women have written in noting that they felt like a different rider altogether upon following the advice given. It's really that good!

If possible, watch this with your hubby and both of you head out to an empty parking lot to put up cones or markers . . . then both of you do the drills. If he's the "I don't need this practice" type . . . approach it from a "would love to see you demonstrate the correct technique, so the DVD and your example can assist me" angle.

I would do all of this before moving the foot controls, as your legs seem well matched for reach at this point. The skills you'll be working on are precision control of the clutch lever (engage and disenage point, i.e. the friction zone), looking where you are going (with both head and eyes) and using the back brake for correct slow down needs (the front brake will pull you down in a slow turn).

Give this a try and I'm betting you'll soon be writing in saying, "WOW, I'm doing it and my confidence is growing with each practice session!" – Mama

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Wednesday, May 9

For Laura who is working on her confidence in slow turns and forward controls:

Hang in there girl friend!

You did not say how long you have been riding. You did mention that you took the MSF course and then bought the Harley. So, I am going to go out on a limb here and assume that you have not been riding more than 6 months.

I am 5 feet tall and also weigh 145 lbs (lol) and I ride a 2007 HD 1200L. My seat height is the same as the custom, 28 inches-unladen. 

My foot controls are under me. I did not start on a HD.  My second bike was a Yamaha with forward controls. Both are enjoyable. You become familiar with what you have and learn to use them to your advantage.

I want to add my voice of encouragement to Mama’s. Though this bike may seem top heavy, it is so because you are comparing it to the smaller bike on which you took MSF. Don’t compare them. They are too dissimilar.

Like anything else in life that is new we must learn and practice. Practice truly does improve our skill level and in turn our improved skill levels build confidence which in turn makes practicing easier and more fun….etc.

Though men are want to call the Sportster a “girls bike” it is anything but and you have a big machine to get to know. The more one on one time in a parking lot that you spend on it the better you will come to know it and that translates into trusting the bike and yourself on it. The Sportster engine is a lot bigger than the MSF bike engine. It requires respect. It requires confident hands and feet on those controls and use your body (one with the bike) at all speeds. My Sporty is awesome through the corners. She is like a feisty young horse and you have to ride her, not the other way ‘round. Have you ever watched someone ride a horse? They use their whole body….hunker down into that saddle and ride her like you mean it!! Really, you have to use your whole body on a bike….we don’t just sit on top and hope it all goes well.

Take your time during this process, take a small trip on the bike every day if you can if only for a few minutes or miles. The more time you spend in the saddle the faster you will become one with your bike. I would say that you will start to feel good about her when you have about one thousand miles on her. That won’t take long if you get out there every day.

Those first few get to know ya rides can be spine tingling, that is for certain. Again just take it easy and try to find time every day in these early days. I ‘ll be thinking about ya’. In Joy, – Tink (note from Mama: what a wonderful message of support, with some added perspectives on not comparing motorcycles too closely . . . they each have their "things" to learn . . . good point!)

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Monday, May 21

Hello lady riders,
I don't know if I'm crazy or what but I went and bought a 2007 Honda Rebel 250 and 5 months later took it back and traded it for a Honda 750 Shadow Sprit 2007. What a beast . . .  I love it but am having trouble on turns, taking them too wide. I still own (and it was my first motor) a 1975 CB200 twin that runs like new still. I never had the turning problem on the other 2 bikes. Anyone have any advice? – Cathy in GA

Dear Cathy,
It's true that each motorcycle has its specific handling characteristics, but the original set-up can come into play as well. I'm thinking that if you look at the rake angle of the front fork and wheel, therein might lay some of the answers. I'd also check your arm reach to hand controls . . . sit on the bike centered and turn the handlebar all the way to each side . . . is your reach still comfortable or do you have to stretch to keep your hands on the controls? If this is the case, you might want to look into rotating the handlebar down a bit, rotating the hand controls a bit on the handlebar, or if needed, consider getting a pullback riser to bring the whole assembly somewhat closer to you.

Of course, a change in turn moves could simple be a different center of gravity of the bike (around which a motorcycle turns) or your overall body position over that COG. Best advice: return to an empty parking lot, set up cones or other markers and slowly work your skill level back up again. It works! – Mama

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Tuesday, May 22

From Angie, who worked on curve handling before her trip:

Well we never made it to the Dragon. Yet we did go to Myrtle Beach for bike week. We did have to go thru the mountains to get there. Well, the individual I was riding with wanted to go 80 in the curves.. I remember what you had said, ride at your own pace. That is what I did. I am glad I listened to you, for I quit paying attention to the road and looked into the curves. After a 2,000 mile to get there and back, I am very tired, yet very glad I did it.. Thanks to you, – Angie (note from Mama: congrats on tackling curvy mountain roads and returning safely home . . . I'm sure the Myrtle Beach Spring Rally was a real eye-opener as well given the sheer number of riders! Keep up the good work . . . you've learned one of the most important lessons . . . at all times, keep your own safety in mind and proceed accordingly!)

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Tuesday, May 22

For Cathy who is having slow turn challenges on a Shadow Spirit:

I too have a Shadow Spirit 750 (2003). I struggle some with the turns as well. My bike has the stock straight across handle bars. I am 5'4" and I have to ride scooted all the way up to the gas tank. My arms are extended all the way out at all times. It is very uncomfortable and my right hand gets tingly and my shoulders get really tight. We just went on a nine hour ride yesterday and I am extremely sore in my arms and shoulders today. I was wondering the same thing you were about my bike. I'm not at all comfortable and I think that might be a part of the struggle with the turns. I'm wanting to look at new handlebars, but I'm not sure how to go about it without it being very expensive. – Rhonda (note from Mama: so, inquire about a pullback riser for your bike at the local dealer, but make sure you check how much cable length you have to the clutch and front brake as it could require longer cables. If the overall expense is a bit out of your range, make a point of saving a bit each week toward the goal . . . we don't want you to lose your love of the adventure when a modification is going to make your motorcycle the dream it could be!)

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Wednesday, June 6

Hi VTwin Mama,
I wanted to ask you about the woman who said she dumped her bike to avoid having an accident. You seemed to agree with her that this is acceptable. But in the classes I’ve had (3), they all said that dumping was just the first part of the accident because it doesn’t slow you down as much as your brakes so you’re going to hit whatever it is anyway. Care to explain? – J.

Dear J.,
In re-reading Suzy's letter, I think I was focused on the fact that her missed curve pathway was leading her towards a fixed object, and from the wording of the letter I felt strongly that she had fixated on the pole. Fixation  is very difficult as once the brain is engaged on the fixation, every other possible action flies out of the brain process. In this particular case, Suzy's brain only offered her the option of laying the bike down to avoid a direct hit (we have no mph information, which makes a difference). Reading between the lines a bit more, I got the feeling that Suzy also decided she had time to dump the bike before a hit to the pole would happen in the slide.

I don't disagree with your many instructor's views that braking action is the first line of defense along with quick downshifting. I think if we talked with these people further they would note that before any potential accident, a rider has only seconds to decide on the best course of action. Newer riders have less experience and therefore their brains don't automatically choose the wisest course . . . they have less skills at their command. 

This is why I advocate continued education and practice for any level rider . . . your brain has to be trained on handling information quickly and skill building helps one understand exactly how fast one can brake, countersteer around a problem, etc.

Perhaps I was remiss in calling it a safe dump as there really is no such animal. Whatever actions lead to the least amount of personal injury is the best course of action.

Thank you for questioning the advice . . . it's helpful for everyone to think carefully about this important aspect of riding! – Mama

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Monday, June 25

Good Morning VTwin Mama,
I have asked you a couple of questions in the past and I have loved your advice so here I go again. I just traded in my Honda VTX 1300 for the new '07 Dyna Low-Rider and I am having a bit of trouble with the thin front tire. My turns are wide and I have this fear that if I lean the bike too much it will fall over. On the Honda it seemed more stable. My question is what do I do differently and how far can I lean with the Low-Rider? Does the thinner front tire have less traction, and do they need to be ridden differently than the bikes with fatter a front tire? – Susan Petruzzi

Dear Susan,
There is no doubt that a thinner tire has less traction but a lot of what could be happening has more to do with your feeling for the center of gravity (COG) of the new motorcycle (congrats on getting it!). A motorcycle pivots around its COG for slow turns and leans on higher speed curves. And if the COG is sitting higher on the new bike, it will have a quicker fall over feeling.

So, let's review a basic . . . remember that in a slow turn one never uses the front brake as its dynamic force will pull you down, whereas using only the rear brake as the tendency to keep you upright. Then I would head back to an empty parking lot and do big lazy circles (both directions) and then slowly tighten up the circle so that you retrain your brain and body for the exact handling characteristics of this beastie!

The tire that came with your Dyna is a 100/90-19 57H. 100 is the width of the tire in millimeters. 90 is the % aspect ratio between width and height and in this case, your tire is 90 millimeters high. 19 is the rim diameter in inches. 57 is a code for loading and H is the speed rating (130mph). So, I looked for a tire that would fit your rim size but have a wider width and still maintain a proper aspect ratio (very important) . . . so far I haven't been able to find anything. I'd query the dealer a bit more on this . . . sometimes stuff for the latest year model won't have options (if any) for a year or so. Still, you want to be careful about getting something approved for your make/model. 

That VTX most likely had a 110/90-19 on it, so a bit more tread width, but the two bike's weights are the same and the seat height is lower on the Dyna. Still, that doesn't mean that the engine isn't sitting just a bit higher in the frame than the VTX (and we're back to COG, a "number" nobody publishes).

I really think that with a bit of practice you'll have that Dyna's handling characteristics nailed down, so head for the practice parking lot and keep at it! – Mama

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Monday, June 25

Dear VTwin Mama,
I wrote to you thanking you for this wonderful site, it has helped a lot with the beginning jitters. 

I now have a problem that I was hoping that you or your readers could help me with. I have been riding on two lane roads and doing great with the curves. A couple of days ago I went out with a friend on a curvy two lane road that I was not familiar with (mistake #1). I was watching her (mistake #2) because she kept hugging the center line and I was afraid that she was going to get creamed. 

A sharp left hand turn snuck up on me that I was not prepared for, I went into the turn too fast, tried to lean, didn't feel like the bike was turning so I looked down at the bike (big mistake #3). It looked like the bike was going straight so I looked to the side of the road to see what I was going to hit (mistake #4) saw the trees and I yanked the handlebars to the left, made it through the turn but I scared myself very badly. I know exactly what I did wrong. 

I came home, looked up your curves and turns archives, read all the articles to see what I need to do. I used the suggestions to go back to the parking lot to practice turns and circles, and countersteering. I took my bike (250 Rebel) to a big parking lot got to 2nd gear and turned in circles and really leaned the bike. I did this until I was dizzy! I then went on the sidestreets and took every left turn that I could find.  I had no problem, but I then took on a two lane road up to a college that has no traffic on it. I took the right hand curves very easily but when I went to go left I again felt like I wasn't leaning enough (I had to force myself not to look down at the bike).

I then went over the center line in the curve. So now I am scared of left curves I have this insane urge to look down at the bike to see if it is leaning. I know that I do this because when I looked down in that one curve the bike looked like it was going straight. I don't know how to get past this. I am very disappointed in myself. I have around 350 miles on my bike and I was doing great, now this. 

I went out for a solo ride yesterday on the side streets, went to get gas even rode in traffic no problem. I was having fun, not nervous at all, really paying attention to the other cars, stopping, taking the turns on and around the side streets easily, I even took one street that I was nervous about taking because it stops on a slight grade then you have to turn to the right sharply and straight up a hill then straight down a very steep hill. I did with no problems didn't stall and I was very proud that I did it. 

I decided to head out of town on a two lane road that I have rode many times but there is a left hand turn that I had to take and the butterflies started up and I had to turn around.  

I was wondering if you or any of your readers have any suggestions. I have taken the MSF class, I have no problem with slow maneuvers its just over 40  into a left turn. I also have no problems with countersteering. I know what I did wrong but I don't know what to do to get over the feeling that the bike is not leaning in the left turns. I have no problem at all with right hand curves, I can take them fast and lean the bike into them (actually this is my favorite part of riding). I just have this fear of left turns now. I would be very grateful for any thoughts or suggestions. Thank you so much for this site! – Cathy, new rider in West Virginia

Dear Cathy,
Isn't it a pill when you try your darndest to noodle a challenge out to no avail? Yet, we know that riders take left curves all the time with great skill. So, what's happening?

My best guess at this point is that you are in the wrong part of the lane upon entering a curve. As Jerry "Motorman" Palladino puts it in his Ride Like a Pro on the Dragon DVD, it's "outside the curve, inside the curve, outside the curve."

What this means is that you always enter a curve on the outside portion of the road curve (outside the curve). For a left curve, that's the right portion of the lane. For a right curve, that's the left portion of the curve. Not only does it give you a better view of the road coming up, it gives you more room to negotiate the curve without running out of room or crossing the center line.

Then, as you enter the curve, you have the whole lane with which to work with (inside the curve) and then you straighten out in anticipation for the next curve (outside the curve).

So, if you've been entering a left curve positioned in the left part of the lane near the center line, you're introducing the least safe position from which to start. Why are you doing it correctly for a right curve? Hard to say, but review this and see if it's not the difference you are looking for.

So, how do group riders in a staggered formation handle this? Well, first of all, given that they are staggered, a twisty road section immediately should signal to the group that single formation is not only allowable, but recommended. When the road straightens out again, the "pure" staggered formation can be resumed.

So, if you were trying to remain in your "lane portion" staggered with your friend, you were probably in the correct portion of the road for a right curve, but then not for the left. Take the proper line and I think your concern will be solved. – Mama

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Tuesday, June 26

For Cathy who is struggling with faster left hand curves, but not the right side ones:

Sounds like your psyching yourself out. Riding a bike is just like life; where you focus is where you go. I'll bet you all the money in my bank account, (sorry, but that's not a whole lot), that you're looking at all the things that you're afraid of hitting: the center line, the outer edge of the road, etc. 

Mama's advice is perfect, "...always enter a curve on the outside portion of the road curve (outside the curve). For a left curve, that's the right portion of the lane. For a right curve, that's the left portion of the curve. Not only does it give you a better view of the road coming up, it gives you more room to negotiate the curve without running out of room or crossing the center line."

. . . but the second half of that is that you have to focus on the end of the curve where you want to end up. Think about where you want to go and you body and bike will automatically get you there . . . don't over analyze every move or you'll panic and end up on the ground.

Also, Mama mentioned Motorman's "Ride Like a Pro" video. GET IT!!! It will teach you much more than your MSF class and will make you WAY more comfortable in just how far you can lean your bike. – Janet (note from Mama: yes, looking through to the end of the curve is a crucial part of this formula . . . thanks for your timely addition!)

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Thursday, June 28

Salutations VTwin Mama,
I enjoy reading this site as much as my fellow readers. But I only write when I have an incident! I am in my first year of riding, and explored dumping my GS500 at 0km an hour in my first week (no scratches except to ego). Last weekend I had lesson in target fixation, and I am thankful that it was without bad consequences. I was on a lovely winding road by a lake, following an expert rider but definitely at my own speed. I was on his GS500; it had a top box and I noticed that at low speeds the tail end was doing a gentle, non-frightening fishtail which he later confirmed is due to the box. I went into a corner quite slowly feeling that I had it mastered, as I had all morning. I truly don't know what happened, but I found myself straightened up. I wonder if the rear end fishtailed me up just a little and/or if the corner went further than I expected and I reacted. I went into what I would call "high-clarity mode" in that moment, and saw that there wasn't a car coming around the corner that I could see, so I went across the oncoming lane and gathered my bike and wits on the road edge, safely. Fortunately my husband, following, didn't realize how involuntary it was...but I really don't think I could have continued around the corner at all and I did consider it in that moment.

What bothered me as we continued was that I didn't think I'd done anything particularly wrong, so what was to stop it happening again, in front of an oncoming car that would not have been at fault had it hit me? As others report, it happens so fast, and in this case without any associated drama. It finally dawned on me that in that moment of clarity of "what will I do" (I was not scared) I looked directly at the front wheel/just over the front of the bike, as though gathering my sphere of focus in on the bike as the center of the problem. My target was now ahead of me, and by logical extension I lifted my head, looked straight across the road and went there.

I am sending this in the hope that it helps reinforce the message of target fixation and that you WILL go where you look. My learning: look at the SOLUTION ONLY (which would have been further around the curve). And I'm going to keep on with skills practice so that while I'm looking at that solution, my body is handling the bike the right way.

My riding was dramatically improved the rest of the day as I willed and forced myself to fully look around the corners. I thought I'd been turning my head fairly well, but with that slap-in-the-face lesson, I really did it properly. I was actually rather disappointed to realize that I hadn't been doing it anything like properly. I did do mini-scans of the road near me quickly as well, as I can't help wanting to know if the road surface is OK, but very consciously maintained overall focus and head-direction further around the corner (is that abad thing, Mama?)

I recommend you compare where you normally look (if you're a learner like me) with consciously looking right around the corner. You may be surprised. Don't learn it my way. Best wishes, – Alexa

Dear Alexa,
How wonderful of you to pen this honest accounting of a target fixation example. I too am glad that you didn't encounter any additional problems when it happened. 

To my best knowledge I truly look through a curve with both my head and eyes to set the lean angle, and then, keeping my head in that position, "flutter" cast only my eyes quickly ahead to more immediate portions of the upcoming ground road to take in something that doesn't look like road!

In most cases, moving one's head and eyes through the curve will be able to take in a sweep of the road condition as the far point is set, but in some tighter turns the sweep is quick and the set point must be fixed immediately and then a gander for road crap taken in.

I believe is was in a recent American Motorcyclist magazine issue that I read a tip that one can actually learn to not fixate by going out and actually fixating . So, if you head to an empty parking lot, you can set something on the surface and then practice approaching it with head and eyes up like normal, fixating on it, and then forcing yourself to immediately move your head and eyes to the avoidance pathway. Sounds like a pretty good learning technique drill to me and I'm going to give that a whirl this weekend!

I profess that the meaning of top box was eluding me . . . from online research it appears to be the wording used in the UK and Australia for rear luggage carrier. It seems weird that something built for the motorcycle would introduce a rear fishtail, even as slight as you mention. Was it heavily loaded? We'd love to hear more about that!

Meanwhile, thank you for strengthening the message that while you think you might be looking through a curve, are you really? It's a good reminder for everyone to devote a review to ensure that they are! – Mama

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Friday, June 29

More for Cathy who is working on fast left hand curves:

One thing I had to pay attention within myself while to learning to ride in the MSF class was how much I trusted the motorcycle to stay up and to lean over without falling over when cornering fast or slow -- I didn't have a lot of trust the first two hours on day one, but I made myself try out and learn to trust that centrifugal force and physics were my friends on the bike. It does take a newbie like me to take a leap of trust to get in a parking lot and push the bars over into a turn and trust it will keep rolling while you focus on where you want to go. 

My biggest lesson learned was using the centrifugal force when doing the "Box" in the MSF class. If I can trust that the momentum will keep me up in first gear while paying attention only to where I am going and the hands & body do their thing, then I can trust my pushing the bars over in a turn right or left. I still consciously think it through, but I have to trust my bike and body to put me into a curve "outside, inside, outside" and see me through it. I have also learned to use my peripheral vision in the curves and look ahead while still seeing the curve right in front of me -- you can practice this in a car too. I am looking ahead for obstacles and still tracking through to where I want the bike to go, but seeing the close part of the curve peripherally in front.

Maybe a little basic, but I forced myself to keep my head up and eyes forward looking at where I was going for the entire MSF class, or I would have spent all my time looking down to see what I was doing. I had to make it a conscious action to keep my head and eyes in the curves in class (our parking lot seemed awfully small and like all one huge curve all the time). Forcing your head up, eyes forward is good for a parking lot to get comfy doing it. 

It also helps to watch MotoGP racing on the Speed channel on rainy Sunday afternoons and watch how the pros go through curves. What is their head doing in a curve? How do they look through? And it's fun to watch. =) – bik3rbunny (note from Mama: yes, I've watched motorcycle racers as well and it's amazing what you can see when you're looking specifically at their various body position techniques!)

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Tuesday, July 24

Hi VTwin Mama,
I think you have a great site even if I am a male.  Hope you don't mind.

I usually just read on these sites but, Cathy's letter (June 25) on left hand turns and your response made me realize what I have been doing wrong. I am also a new rider (49 years young) just got my license in April and ride a VStar 650.  Anyways, just thought I would send along my thanks for the help and hope you continue the good work. – Roald in Burlington, Ontario

Dear Roald,
While the VTwin Mama site does focus in on women's experiences with motorcycle riding, men are very welcome to join in and participate. So, I'm glad you wrote to let me know that a previous letter was able to clarify and solve a challenge you've been facing. That's great and as long as there are people who need assistance, I'll be here! – Mama

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Friday, July 27

Hey Petra,
Now that I finally have my bike, I had a question for you about downshifting.. I have a Kawi Vulcan 500, which is a 6 speed. Let's say I'm doing 50, in 6th gear and I need to slow down because I'm approaching a stop sign in the distance. What's the best technique to use for downshifting ? While holding the clutch in, downshift 1 gear at a time, until I reach the stop sign? Or downshift 1 gear at a time, letting the clutch out ,when the bike speed matches the engine speed and try to bleed off speed . I believe this is "engine braking "?

Right now I usually hold in the clutch and downshift 1 gear at a time until I reach the stop sign. I've been told that this is hard on the transmission. But I just feel it's a lot of work to downshift, while letting the clutch out 1 gear at a time. Plus sometimes you don't have the space or time to click through 3 or 4 gears a time .

Would the same procedures make sense in a curve as well? For example, when I approach a curve, I do all of my braking before the curve. Then I downshift before the curve and usually hold the clutch in and then SLOWLY release the clutch as I roll on the throttle through the curve. Am I doing the right thing ?

Any suggestions would be great ! Being a Newbie, I don't want to start out developing a lot of bad habits..

Thanks again, as always – Nancy from Michigan

Dear Nancy,
Congrats on the motorcycle (if we didn't say so in a previous posting!) and that Vulcan sounds fun!

When there is no traffic in front of me in a straight line, I usually front brake my speed down, click into 3rd, let the clutch out in the speed proper range and leg it in on 3rd until I'm close and then coast in, making the final click to 1st gear so I stop in 1st gear ready to go "just in case." If you click and engine brake down in each gear it's not only extra work on the bike, it's a lot of work for you and really not necessary! But it does take practice for that smooth look and proper control at all times.

If there is traffic I'm moving with, that usually means I'm bleeding off speed by downshifting a gear at a time with a bit of front brake for the proper speed range and leg it in on 2nd gear (just in case I need to power up) and then coast in and click into 1st at the stop.

Do not completely dismiss the engine braking power however. Should something catch you unawares or require quick action, engine braking is a powerful tool to quickly bleeding off speed. My thought is that if you feel you would need to grab maximum front and rear brake, and even then, it might not be enough, or you might be jamming hard on the brakes, immediately use engine braking with light brake application (front if you're in a straight line, rear if you're in any kind of a curve). In a bad situation, each downshift and clutch release can be done in rapid succession. You don't even need to fully let that clutch lever out, just enough to engage the tranny for the braking power, then pull the lever in, gear down, let out, etc.

One should always "set" the motorcycle up properly for entering a curve. You've described it correctly. I'll simply add that should you find yourself with a bit of extra speed, it's ok to bump it down but only by using the rear brake and then very lightly (a tapping action). Downshifting while in a curve is really not a great idea, although I find upshifting proves to be just fine. My thought is that downshifting may accidentally jerk the bike when the clutch lever is released (engaged) and could cause a rear slide out.

And remember our recent discussion about entering a curve in the correct portion of the lane. You should start your curve in the outer side of the curve (so left side of the lane for a right curve, right side of the lane for a left curve). Middle portion is better than the total wrong side. That gives you wiggle room as you negotiate the curve, remembering to look through the curve to where you want to end up!

You're doing fine but I'm glad you asked as this is how we learn! – Mama

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Wednesday, August 1

Hey Petra,
What a nice surprise to see my pixs on your site !!  Thanks so much for the allowing me to pick your brains with my never-ending questions !! And to share my motorcycle pixs with the entire forum !!  I told all of my family and friends to go check out the pixs on your site !!!

I had a great weekend of riding. Just short trips locally, but it was the first time I had been out by myself. I felt ready, even though hubby was a little anxious. But he agreed that if I felt ready, then it was time to give it a spin!  I went during an off-peak time so traffic was light and I felt pretty good. I'm more of a slow but steady person, so I'm taking my time and working on improving my skills. Further down the road though, I have to hit the highway !!  I'm Ok with the speed, but it's those exit ramps with those 'decreasing radius turns' that concern me :/   I'm thinking of trying that early one  Sunday morning with hubby behind me.

My next question  (you know I ALWAYS have a question !!! )  is one that I know everyone has different opinions on: helmets. Short & sweet, I've been riding with a half-helmet and prescription sunglasses. Well, the wind is causing my eyes to water, so I'm thinking of getting either a 3/4 helmet with a shield or a full face helmet.

A friend who rides suggested goggles to fit over my glasses (not sure if I like that look ), but I'm thinking that a 3/4 helmet would provide my noggin with more protection.  I've seen some 3/4 helmets with shields for as low as $75, but I'm wondering if that's too cheap?  Since my funds are limited, I'm thinking maybe I should wait until next season when I can afford to get a better helmet ??  Or is a $75 3/4 helmet Ok ?  Should I be investing more???? Maybe wait & get a full face next year??  Sigh, decisions, decisions.

Looking forward to hearing from you,  – Nancy from Michigan

Dear Nancy,
Yahoo, your first solo ride … congratulations!

My thought on helmets and your eyes is get that 3/4 helmet with face shield now. Make sure it's DOT approved. You've got to solve the watering eyes thing. This is happening because you don't have a good seal between your check bones and side of the nose. Since I wear contacts when I ride, I look for sunglasses that sit tight on that lower/side area, which does the trick for me. I too normally wear eyeglasses, but don't like the goggle over glasses look/concept.

We've had chatter that there are motorcycle-specific shades/goggles with prescription lenses … check the 2007 postings on my Ride Gear: Helmets, Googles, Hair Smuch page!

As to your upcoming highway time, yes those ramps can feel really tight and nauseating! I still pay strict attention to every detail of my riding when exiting and entering on ramps. The basics are like any curve: start out on the outside of the curved road portion (don't hug the inner curve line) so that you have room to lean through and use the whole lane on the lean amount. 

In most cases you can quickly scan to get a sense of the tightness of the curve and if there is crap on the road and then make yourself look at least 3/4 of the way through (fixate on that end point).

If you want some pre-practice, set up a lazy but spiral curve in that empty parking lot … you just need some highly visible markers to see without having to really look … even piles of bright orange cheese snack crackers will do the trick! 

Then start spiraling . . . your hubby can stand at the end point and watch to see if you're really focused on him the whole time or not. I have found in doing some personal training with new riders, that if I also shouted "Look At Me, Look At Me" the whole time, it helped the rider focus on the end point better because you've got both the visual and audible command going! Remember that you keep your head/eyes level, not tucked down or strained up, and both head and eyes turned (but level) on the target. Your husband may want to shout "Whoa Nelly" if you're barreling down on him (ok, that's just a funny!).

Many more happy practice miles to you! – Mama

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Wednesday, August 29

For 7by9rd who wondered if left- and right-handed people had different turn problems:

This is interesting because I am both left and right handed but I HATE right turns. I am new to riding myself. I've had my Honda Shadow VLX for a year now and I am still having lots of trouble with turns. I love to ride and I love my bike, so, this female Marine will not give up. Thanks VTwin Mama for an awesome site for us chicks! : ) – Tonya (note from Mama: there have been lots of theories of why right turns are generally considered more troublesome, but as always, practice is the key! Check out the Ride Like a Pro DVD ... it's all about the slow maneuver stuff and lots of women swear they wouldn't have mastered this otherwise! On a personal note, it's wonderful to hear from a women in our U.S. Marine Corp. Thank you for your contribution to keeping us all safe!)

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Monday, September 10

Dear VTwin Mama,
Is it better to downshift to slow to a stop, or "glide in" and then (or during) downshift to first?? I have tried both, and found that I really do not have a preference (although I find myself using the downshifting (is this engine breaking?) to slow to a stop. Also, is one way or another better for the bike??

And what about "scrubbing off" speed in a curve?? Back brake, downshift, what is best, do ya think?? Thanks!! Love Your Site!!! – Kat

Dear Kat,
I think the answer to stopping is actually from the "other" end of things! What if while you're stopping you find the sudden need to gain some speed in order to avoid an impending problem? Clearly one would want to be stopping in such a manner as to be cognizant of the gear currently in so that a quick spurt forward (and possibly around) can be achieved.

So, if you've in 4th gear, gliding in, having come down to 20mph, if you needed to speed up, you would have a sluggish throttle to work with, or would need precious seconds to downshift to the correct gear to get that oomph you want.

For the same reason, most people advocate staying in 1st gear at the stop. If something behind you started going wrong (car coming in too hot, lost brakes, etc.) you could get out and around faster.

Speed into a curve should be handled in the straightaway before entering the curve. It's useful to decide the gear and speed one wants, get there, and then enter the curve. The throttle will be responsive if a bit extra is needed or the back brake can be tapped lightly to bleed off a bit. Judgment of proper gear and speed is a combination of the posted speed, your experience level, and road conditions, and is honed through practice and more and more miles on the road. – Mama

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Wednesday, September 26

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have taken the ERC course and am interested in taking a more advanced course. There is an advanced riders course by Lee Parks of Total Control. Has anyone taken this course; if so, any feedback? I am interested in cornering skills which I seem to be weak at. My turns are too fast and too wide any suggestions? – Barbara

Dear Barbara,
I have no personal input on the course but applaud your research into looking at more learning opportunities! Readers, any input?

Yes, I suppose there is a point where entering a curve too fast could cause a problem, but it's the too wide notation that grabbed my interest. To me this means you are not taking the correct lane position at all times.

For example, if the upcoming curve is to the right, and you are in the right hand portion of the lane, two things happen. Your eyes are trapped into looking at that white line marking the edge of the curve, and if you try to correct, your only option is to drift outwards towards the left, propelling you to the center line and possible oncoming traffic. That's an immediate feeling of "going wide."

Now, if you are taking a right curve and start in the left hand portion of the lane, it's a whole different world! First, you have a naturally better view of the road curve ahead of you. Second, if you're coming in a bit hot, you can countersteer (lean) a bit more into the curve because you have the whole lane position at your disposal!

I think the hardest thing can be in believing that you do actually go where you look. It can be difficult to trust this concept unless you really work at it through practice. It requires that both your head and eyes look past the immediate road coming up. Heck, you know it's there, so there is no need to confirm it! Head level, eyes looking 1/2 to full way through the curve, correct lane positioning.

And yes, entering a curve in the correct gear and speed does help! You want a gear that will allow you to maintain steady throttle. If you're throttling up and down through the curve, you are constantly "moving" your countersteer lean needs. A constant speed serves you better. If you need to slow it down a tad, instead of backing off the throttle, tap that back brake lightly. The physics of this action does cause the bike to upright itself a bit, but a slight correction to the lean angle will take care of it. Remember, if you're in the correct lane position, you've got room!

Ok, noodle on that and go out and give it a try. See if that doesn't correct your too fast, too wide feelings. – Mama

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2008

Wednesday, May 21

Dear VTwin Mama,
Two questions:
1) If find yourself going around a turn too fast, do you let off of the throttle or remain steady on it as you "simultaneously" feather the rear brakes?
2) If you're taking a turn too wide, should you throttle more and/or try to lean more?

Thank you for your time! – Theresa (purpledove2)

Dear Theresa,
Of course one would preferably set up the speed for a curve/turn correctly before hand, but never underestimate Mama's ability  to enter too hot or off line on occasion and having that "yikes" moment.

IMHO, the real culprit on correction is target fixation. Once we get that yikes/panic thought in our head, a rider tends to freeze up mentally. It's like we can't rip our eyes away from the spot we recognize as too fast or too wide. And as we all know, we go where we look.

So, for 1) it's best to stay steady on the throttle, feather the back brake, but most importantly ... look through the turn as far as possible. Why steady on the throttle? Because the moment you change that dynamic of the equation, you're introducing yet another variable. When you look furthest through the turn, your lean will follow. I'll add that this can seem very scary because one is trusting that the bike's tires will keep a firm enough contact with the ground. Watch some racing footage to see what bikes can really do!

I recall watching the Ride Like a Pro on the Dragon (Deals Gap, 318 curves in 11 miles) and the guy that did the video taping for that DVD, one of the most experienced riders of the Dragon because he literally runs it almost every day, had some important tips. The one I remember most is that riding twisties with a steady throttle is super important, using the lean to move though and only touching the back brake when absolutely necessary. He said that more people get themselves into trouble constantly letting off the throttle when coming into a curve too fast. It's the lean and look that works!

2) So, a turn too wide then is also about looking though the turn as far as possible so you're not fixating on the line that marks the edge of the pavement. If you're referring to a wide turn from a dead stop, the advice is the same, except to add that it's time to go back to an empty parking lot and place some markers out to mimic an intersection and work on that skill. You've got to have the clutch friction zone well learned and build the trust to look through the intersection so you're not focusing on a mid-point of the turn. Focus on the mid-point and that's where you'll go, no matter what level of reduced or added throttle you use.

I'm hoping these thoughts help you work on these techniques. I'll add that I take time to review my handling skills from time to time ... even an experienced rider benefits from reviewing skills and polishing them up! – Mama

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Wednesday, June 18

For Barbara who was working on turns and curves and inquiring about the Total Control course:

I haven't taken the Total Control course yet. I've only been riding for 6 weeks, 1200 miles, so I don't have enough experience, but I'll be taking it as soon as I can put enough miles on my bike. I met up with some friends at Americade last week, and we caught a Lee Parks demo, which was immediately after after a Gold Wing team exhibition. (8 guys doing formations in less than the space of a football field, and regularly scraping floorboards.) Then Lee Parks starts narrating as his demo rider shows his stuff, also on a Gold Wing. He was making turns tighter and faster than the team riders, but the floor boards were no where near to scraping. It was astonishing.

In a nutshell what he was doing was this: Instead of leaning with the bike and turning just his head to look around the turn, he was turning his whole body, head, hips, and shoulders. His weight was on the inside foot peg, (and inside butt cheek) and he was leaning his upper body forward and into the turn more than the bike with his inside knee sticking out. If you've seen a Moto-GP race, like that, only his butt wasn't actually hanging off the seat, and his knee wasn't near to scraping. (OK, in the end he did that, which is freaky to see on a Gold Wing.) By using the wind resistance of putting your body into the air stream, and putting your center of gravity farther inside the turn than by just leaning with the bike, you actually make it easier for the bike to make the turn. You still countersteer, and you can roll on the throttle, but you need much less input for both of these. The bike will carve the same turn, at the same speed with much less lean angle than by just leaning with the bike. Less lean angle on the means more traction and a greater margin of safety. If you're running wide, or you discover it's a decreasing radius turn, there's plenty more lean available to the bike to pull it tighter. And should you need to do a quick stop on a curve, getting the bike vertical is easier as it isn't leaned over as far.

While this is an "advanced" technique, and I'm a total noob, it's been just the ticket for me. I have a real hard time leaning with the motorcycle. I was rather permanently attached to my bicycle until I went to college, and I ALWAYS counter-lean on a bicycle. 25 years later this is still true. Leaning with the bike into a turn scares the bejeeses out of me. So cornering at speed on my motorcycle hasn't been much fun. But

I've been practicing this and it really works. My husband (not a rider) has followed me in his car and he says it doesn't look like I'm doing all that much, but I can certainly feel it. And yesterday I was carving up some 25mph twisties I'd never seen before doing 30 to 35, grinning like an idiot the whole way and laughing like crazy on the straights. (Can I have some more, please?) No more death grip on the gas tank, and no more cramps in my shoulders and arms from fear. And yes, I felt in Total Control the whole time. One of the big questions for me in my first 900 miles of riding, was how do you find the line on a curve you've never seen before and can't see the exit of from the entrance? Mr. Parks said, turn your body where you want to go, and your body knows how to get there. It's working pretty well for me. Since I picked this up watching a half hour demo, I can't wait to take his course.

I thought I'd pass it on as it's helped me tremendously and might be of use to my sister riders. I'll be picking up his book as soon as I have some cash again. I blew the budget on leather overpants and a new bright yellow armored jacket. (Actually, I blew the budget on going to Americade, I could have afforded just the gear, but it was so worth it). – MK (note from Mama: thanks for sharing what you learned by watching this awesome demonstration of turn control!)

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Tuesday, July 15

For Nancy who is getting her fear factor in check and moving forward in the adventure:

After many shaky starts and practicing in parking lots I find that preparing the bike for the turn by leaning it slightly to one side (into the turn) while still stopped makes the turn start earlier and go smoother. Practice using the friction zone of the clutch with enough RPMs so you have no risk of stalling during the turn. I hope this helps.   – Drew (note from Mama: when we share something we found to have worked, it's always good! Turns from a dead stop are truly a challenge in the beginning and even an experienced rider knows that paying attention here is necessary. Case in point ... watch an experienced rider going wide on a turn from a stop ... that's sloppy handling and while it may not cause a problem that one time, when a perfect turn path is needed, the one who practices precision turn placement all of the time will have those skills at the ready!)

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Friday, August 1

Hi Mama,
Love your site. I just bought a new Ninja 650R. I needed practice with riding in a group formation so I was practicing staying in the left tire track on my own. The tires had correct air pressure for the morning (70 degrees) and were fine through an afternoon of riding around Bear Mountain, NY, they stuck really well even when air temps were at 90 degrees and above. I was grinding away at the chicken strips and got the rear ones down to about .75" wide. It seemed to me like I was leaning way over, but I'll bet the truth is less dramatic. 

But then on the way back the temps dropped to the 60s and my rear tire started to drift. On one curve it started to drift out a bit much. I was afraid that if I touched the rear brake I would get high-sided, so I feathered the front brake to keep it leaned over and scrub a teeny bit of speed off. To my surprise, the front end bit in, and the bike over-steered for a while before the bike went where it pointed. Just like that I was in and then out of danger. Apparently, both tires were drifting at that point. 

What happened? I wasn't going very fast, slower than most moms late for a soccer game would drive, I dare say. Did the tires become under-inflated due to the temperature drop? (I didn't stop for dinner for the tires to cool.) Or were they over-inflated from a full day of riding? They're OEM Bridgestone BT-020. They feel really slippery in the wet. What's the proper way to recover from drifting while wet and dry? Thanks. – Andy S.

Dear Andy,
So that everyone can catch up on the topic, drift is when you're in a curve and one or both tires starts actually skidding sideways, meaning the rubber is no longer gripping the pavement. If it's minor, the tires will both re-grip and you're on your way, although your heart is in your throat. If the rear re-grabs hard and fast, it'll toss you.

In everything I've read on the subject, drift is more about speed, as it takes a considerable force to break the connection point of rubber to road (although less on wet pavement). Having ridden in the Sierra Nevada mountain range for seven years, where one routinely leaves the valley floor at one temperature and reaches the peaks that can be 30 degrees or more cooler, I find it difficult to believe that a tire could be so touchy on air pressure due to temp changes.

Usually in a curve, one never touches the front brake for a slight speed adjustment, but if the rear tire was already drifting, touching that rear brake in fact could have brought back the lost traction in a not very pleasant way. Recovery from drifting is best left to the racing professionals ... i.e, if you're drifting on a regular basis, something else is not right.

Since the Ninja is new, and I believe you when you say your speed was in fact not excessive, then I would gently suggest that the OEM tire might be the sore spot. I'd get on a Ninja-specific board and see what 650R riders prefer. If I had to guess, the Metzler name in tires is going to come up. Let's see if we get any other Ninja riders to chime in on this one. – Mama

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Friday, August 29

Hi VTwin Mama,
I’ve been looking for a detailed explanation of why the rear brakes works in tightening a curve and here’s the best explanation that I could find.

Regarding the drifting, that I wrote to you about on Aug. 1, 2008, I’ve experimented extensively and found that the tires will stick like glue if the are dry, warm, and inflated properly 34 lbs front and 38 lbs rear (hot).  If any of the three variables are off, wet, cold, or under inflated tires, they drift or slide. Here's an article on tire pressure.

Last Friday, I had a two wheel drifting incident while making an ill-advised late turn into a corner while traveling 30 mph and grabbed at the brakes while leaned over 40-45 degrees or so:  I did not high side or low side, I attribute it to Kawasaki and Bridgestone engineers, apparently correctly so:  http://www.msgroup.org/Tip.aspx?Nu m=101&Set

However, I thought that tires that slide at their limits of adhesion might be a plus at times, but maybe not, judging from the above article. So much to learn, so little time. Thanks for your safety tips and website. – Andy

Dear Andy,
What a great site you found ... I'm definitely going to sit down and read through everything as learning is key to riding and there is always room for more knowledge! – Mama

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Friday, September 5

Dear VTwin Mama,
I also am having trouble with slow turns.  My question is in reference to an old post from Susan, who says:

I was trying that look right, press right thing. I wasn't sure how they meant to press. I pressed DOWN and no results! Finally the only thing that got me through it is when I jerked my head as far as I could to the right and I made it around. Since then I have found that they mean to press (forward) on the right handlebar to go right. This was made clearer to me by Keith Code who runs the California Superbike schools and was advised to practice this until I could turn the bike in any direction on demand 100% of the time.

Does she really mean press forward on the right handlebar to go right?  Wouldn't you press forward on the LEFT to go right? (Pressing forward on the left would turn the handlebars to the right .....) Help !!!  Since I am trying to develop good technique I would appreciate your clarification on this.  Thank you!! – Teresa

Dear Teresa,
I think that are as many descriptions as there are riders about how they organize thoughts on taking curves on a motorcycle. To some it feels like a push or a press, either forward or to the side, while others feel it's more of a pull, and others describe the action as a shift in their seat. This can be confusing to someone who is just starting to figure this out.

Let's first consider our bike and our body. Each has a center of gravity (COG), the place on the object where the mass, or weight, is centered. For a bike that's at the engine; for our bodies that is at our hips. If we keep the our body centered over the bike and the bike is centered, we go in a straight line. We like that!

In order to negotiate a turn or curve, we must move the COG of the bike off the center line. We do not do this by steering the front wheel ... we do this by leaning the bike off the center portion of the tire onto a slight position to one side or the other.

The proper term is countersteering ... a deceptive term because as noted before, we do not actually steer, we lean. Still, this is the term used. In order to take a curve to the right, we must ride the bike's tires on the right side of center.

Now let's try an experiment. Sitting on your bike, with the front wheel pointed centered and forward, lean your whole bike to the right just a small amount and hold the weight with your leg. See how the tire is now resting on the right side off the center?

Now, how do we get a motorcycle to do that while we're merrily along our way on the road? Let's stick with the right curve. If we pull the handlebar from the left, we'll get the bike's tires on the right portion. Alternatively, we can press or push the right side and it will do the same thing. 

No matter how it is accomplished we are actually moving the handlebar the smallest, most imperceptible amount to the left in order to get onto the right portion of the tire. Thus, it's called countersteering!

Now, back to your experiment of sitting on the bike. With the bike centered and both feet on the ground, remember that a curve is not steering, but leaning. So, keep the front wheel straight. Now how are you going to get the whole bike to lean to the right? Pull to move the weight of the bike from the left or push/press on the right. Try that for yourself. You are not looking to turn the wheel, you are looking to move the COG weight off center onto the tire portion of the direction you want to go.

Most riders find it easier to think in terms of Push/Press Right, Go Right. As Susan noted, it's not a press down, it's a push/press from the side, which can feel like forward! Why do I sometimes refer to it as down? Because my experience level makes it feel like I'm pressing down but the more I think of it I'm pressing forward (the down feeling comes because I'll feel the drop in the handlebar level to that side when I start the learn). Again, we're not steering the front wheel, we're moving the COG off center.

Why do some describe it as a shift in their seat? Probably because they are sensitive that their body's COG has shifted. Some find a deliberate seat shift helps them get in to the lean. Heck, I can put a bike into a curve with my knees! The bottom line still remains ... whatever body part gets the bike off its centerline, we have to lean the bike so that the tire is off its center! – Mama

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Wednesday, September 10

For Teresa who is working on figuring out curve/turn lean/countersteer concepts:

I know just what she is going though and I finally mastered that problem. I was always trying to remember the push steering, push left to go left and right to go right? It made me very nervous just trying to remember. So a friend of mine told me to get forget about it and just lean. So my advise is just relax, pull on the left to go right and lean a bit and once it leans give it the gas ... is works very well. Believe me, I was over a year figuring out this out. But it's a lot more fun to relax and lean. I can even pass cars on the highway now. Just relax and lean.  It'll come to ya with practice. – Anonymous (note from Mama: you've got a point ... sometimes we can over analyze something, which clouds the learning curve. For others though, they get it when a certain combination of words are used to describe a riding technique. That's why I don't mind going over a concept again and again ... either my or someone else's words will make sense to the rider seeking information!)

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Monday, September 29

Dear VTwin Mama,
This is my response to everyone who has written in about slowing down for blind curves! I to have the same problem. I tend to slow down when I can't see through a curve. But I have to say that is not always a bad thing. I was taught if you can't see through the curve, you should proceed with caution. But caution is one thing and becoming your own road hazard is another. This is what I have learned:

1  Lean into the curve using your hips.
2  For a left curve, start at the right side of the lane, lean in tight, and by the time the lane straightens you should be on the left side of the lane.
3 At slower speeds. keep your body straight and dip the bike in the direction of the curve. – Anonymous

Dear Anon,
Thanks for sharing the three rules you live by when it comes to curves. I always say that 10 different people can explain it 10 different ways, but the one that matters at any given moment is the one that all of sudden makes it click for someone seeking to learn it! – Mama

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Wednesday, October 1

Hi VTwin Mama,
I first would like to tell you how much I enjoy your website and what a great help it is. Thank you for all you do for new riders. [you are welcome!]

I have been riding for two years and recently had a bad experience that I feel like has really set me back. I do a lot of group riding with a local organization. It makes it difficult for me to ride comfortably through the curves. Although they preach that you can have your whole lane I feel obligated to maintain my line in the group formation. And up until a few weeks ago I have been really enjoying my riding experience. 

However, on a recent ride I allowed myself to be pushed past what I felt comfortable with by riding with the group that was being led by someone going faster than the posted speed limit. This included going on a very curvy road, to the point that I almost lost it in a curve and I had to tell myself over and over in my head to LEAN. The thought went through my mind that I was going to wreck !! I managed to get through the curve without wrecking and continued with the ride.  

But it seems my confidence has been completely shaken. And I don't know how to get it back. I do know that I will never put myself in that position again with the group and I will be more selective about who is leading the ride if I do decide to ride with them. However, I am wondering what I can do to help me get back to where I was before. 

Is this normal and will I be able to shake that fear of a curve from my mind ??? I look at all the other riders in our group and how they just seem to glide along through the curves with such ease (both men and women) and it makes me wonder if I will ever get to that comfort level. I want to so bad but I don't know how! Can you offer any words of wisdom ? – Anonymous

Dear Anon,
I once rode with a group consisting mainly of motorcycle cops who were so well trained that they could take the twisty roads at such high speeds that it scared the crap out of me and I had to fall behind. I just didn't have the skill level. I thought, who am I kidding that I'll ever be able to do that. So I noted to the group that I wouldn't be joining them again as it wasn't a good fit for me and we went our separate ways.

Getting confidence back is probably done best on some solo rides down those same roads at speeds you know you can handle in order to get your groove back.

Then I would like you to consider taking the MSF's Experienced RiderCourse. This is taken on your own bike and you'll read that it will help you "practice the techniques of managing traction, stopping quickly, cornering and swerving." Why not go to an accredited course and under the watchful eye of instructors, check that your skills over the two years, are as polished and perfected as possible. I'll bet you'll learn something! Almost every rider who has told me about this class came away with something to learn!

While I admitted to myself that I wasn't really interested in taking the twisties at super high speeds, it was also clear to me that I didn't fully trust my bike at the time, a '76 H-D Superglide. There was just something about the deeper leans that wasn't sitting right with me. And no matter how much I practiced for faster curves, I couldn't get "it."

All motorcycles follow the same principles of curve lean, but the center of gravity, often referred to as "the balance," is not the same from bike to bike. A motorcycle pivots through a curve around its center of gravity and the higher the center of gravity (the mass of the engine) is off the ground, the deeper the lean that is necessary for the curve lean/pivot. So the bike make/model does in fact have an affect.

Once I sold my Harley and got my BMW, curves became a joy, although I had to unlearn bad habits of leaning fear at higher speeds. It took a lot of solo rides, but eventually I realized the BMW is worthy of my trust and part of that was that I really practiced. Still, I can tell the difference. That bike wants to lean and goes into it easily!

Unfortunately, there are no stated specifications for center of gravity called out anywhere. My suggestion, should you be curious, is to visit the dealer of your model, sit on one on the showroom floor, take it off the kickstand, and gently lean it both ways. Feel the weight of the bike, concentrate on the feel of the engine weight leaning, and feel how/when your leg really has to hold that up. Now, sit on another bike on the showroom floor. Do it again. And keep doing this until you've developed a feel for what I'm talking about. If you do this imaging that the lean is the curve, I'm guessing you'll soon understand that there is a difference from bike to bike.

You are looking to educate yourself on what differences there are and then making decisions from there. That could be the course or maybe looking for a motorcycle show coming to your area where you can sit on a lot of bikes and make some more educated comparisons! Shopping is free! – Mama

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Friday, October 3

Dear Petra,
Lately I have seen several riders who do not use their bikes' turn signals. They use hand signals instead. What is the background and reasoning behind that? In early morning rush hour traffic, around dawn, it's hard to see the arm even when there are headlights and street lights all around the rider. Regards, – Sarah

Dear Sarah,
There is no doubt that in low light (dusk, dawn, night) one's turn signals are more readily visible to any vehicles around the rider. IMHO the hand signals are used because it can catch the attention of other vehicles because a body part is moving and any change a rider makes has the chance that someone not focusing (i.e. drinking/eating/cell phone talking) might get the point. 

Often clad in black leather though, I see your point that in low light that might really not be as visible as the rider thinks. I advocate the use of turn signals ... in a timely manner (i.e. not at the last second like so many drivers/riders do) ... then lighting tapping the brakes to indicate the change in speed, and to add the hand signal if there is any doubt about the turn. 

I'll add two points. One, on a lane change in heavy traffic, I like to use the turn signal and then add the hand signal (of course I'm double checking over my shoulder as well). Two,  in the group formations I ride in, the road captain starts with a turn signal and then adds the hand signal ... riders down the line mimic the sequence and there is no doubt about what the group needs to be doing! – Mama

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Monday, October 27

Dear VTwin Mama,
I just found your website and it's awesome! I was looking for some encouragement after my first 'down' on my bike. I've only been riding for a couple of months and I'm still getting used to my bike, a 1997 Honda Magna 750. Saturday I took a familiar turn a bit too fast and ran into a parked car. A few scratches and a punctured tire on the car, no damage to the bike, and for me a sore wrist, smashed finger, and I feel very stupid. I forgot a big rule: I knew going into the turn that I was going too fast, and I looked where I DID NOT want to go! I'll get back on the bike as soon as my wrist is better, and any encouragement other readers can offer would be much appreciated. Thanks! – Mary in California

Dear Mary,
Ouchie! I'm glad to here that physically you are basically ok and the healing is underway. I understand that the mental aspect of the oopsie is a bit more to take in ... but it's only stupid if you don't learn from it ... and I'm encouraged as you've already been working on what you didn't do exactly right and how to correct it.

Some people may say it's not true, but most agree ... there are two types of riders ... the ones who have gone down and the ones who will go down. Most riders, at some point in their adventure in riding, have an oopsie. Hopefully not the really icky kind. Welcome to the club!

While we may get messages of support as you continue to learn, my suggestion is that you take a look at the VTwin Mama Message Board as soon as possible ... and then register if you feel this community might be of interest. If ever there was a support system for new women riders, this is the place. Once you introduce yourself, the welcoming messages will come swimming in and you'll know you've found a home to share your thoughts, challenges, and triumphs! Just a thought. – Mama

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