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Article on how to measure for a new handlebar from JP Cycle Tech Talk
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2006 Tuesday, January 10 Dear
VTwin
Mama, Dear
John, Tuesday, January 17 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Matt, Tuesday, January 24 Dear
VTwin
Mama, Dear
bobalouie, Monday, February 20 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Evelyn, If another rider confirms your observation, or another rider isn't easily available to offer an opinion, you may want to consider calling up the dealer's service department and describing what's going on. The best response would be that they would want you to bring the bike in so one of their service techs could take it for a spin. Things you might want to check first: is the engage/disengage point of the clutch lever properly set and adjusted? Has the oil been changed recently and is it of the right viscosity and fill level (never overfill, this sets up problems). Remove the shift lever and check to see if the shift shaft is bent (could have happened if the bike was dropped onto its left side by the previous owner) and could be causing the problem more so in the downshift (depending on how its bent). Ok, that's some things to work through, and I'm hoping they resolve the issue.. – Mama Dear VTwin Mama, Your website and my wonderful supportive non-riding husband have gotten me back on the road. Yesterday was a beautiful 77 degrees, my only day off this week, and I spent most of it inside doing nothing because I was afraid to get the bike out by myself and ride up and down the street by our house. Well . . . my husband came home from work and said "Why aren't you out on your motorcycle??" So, off we went, him sitting in the front yard as I drove up and down the street with him and the neighborhood kids cheering me on. At one point I got the bike up to a whopping 25mph!! Ok, I know . . . it's not fast . . . but it FEELS fast when you're new to riding and are just used to a car. Quick question though, my hands got tired kinda fast. Are there any exercises I can do to help with this? Or will it just get better over time with more riding? – Tegan Dear Tegan, Now, as to tired hands. Yes, part of that is just you getting use to having to use them so much, as neighborhood riding is a lot of clutching and braking. You may also not quite realize how tense your overall body actually is, so it's really a whole body and mind experience. I'm not sure what solutions are available for the Yami TW200 on actual lever change-outs, but you might want to check with the dealer if more "ergonomically correct" clutch and brake systems are available. This means that they are easier to pull and/or are more curved in so your hand isn't grabbing such a wide distance (if you think this might be part of the tired hand challenge). You might want to check in with ASV, as they make adjustable, pivoting levers that might work for your bike. Otherwise, get one of those hand-squishies that they tout for stress relief (!) and work on hand strength. Yes, it makes a difference, as does general stretch/strengthening exercises that build up tummy muscles (that make the back stronger) and arm/shoulders. – Mama Friday, April 7 For Tegan whose hands are getting tired quickly: For anyone interested in building hand strength, check out the Gripmaster. These little hand exercisers are great for hand workouts. I noticed a big difference in my hand strength and not having my hands so tired and crampy after regularly using this little exerciser. I started with the medium (red). Between that and some other exercises I do to strengthen my grip and forearm, I am about to graduate to the black one. – Amy (note from Mama: a high-tech squishy that looks like it would do the job. Now, how do we get motorcycle riders on their official "Who Should Use Gripmaster" section on the left side of the page?!?!?!?!) Tuesday, April 11 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Lizard, Wednesday, April 12 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Sliver Hi VTwin Mama, Another quick question, the throttle is not very responsive, it's kinda loose and seems to "sputter." Is this just a breaking-in issue or was the bike just not adjusted properly? Many thanks and your website is awesome!! – Lynn Dear Lynn, Bikes either use a clutch cable or hydraulic clutch and I'm fairly certain your bike has a cable. This extends from the clutch lever area. You can't widen the friction zone, but you can move it! Typically this is done as the bike ages because the cable stretches over time. If you look at where the cable enters the clutch lever you'll see some sort of knurled lock nut, that when loosened, allows you to turn the cable in and out and move the engage/disengage point. Small turns only please, lock the nut, try it, adjust as necessary. The throttle free-play is the same theory. Too much and the time between twisting the grip and the corresponding pull on the throttle slide (a part that controls the fuel-air mix to the engine) is delayed. Too little will make the bike leap forward at the slightest pressure. There is a lock nut and then the adjustment can be made, but this is touchy and needs to be handled with care. Again, if you bought it from a dealer, call and ask for
an appointment for fine-tuning as this shouldn't take more than 15
minutes, so see if they can specify a date/time and handle it on the spot.
If you bought this from a private owner, then it's best to get the service
manual (and is a good idea anyway) so that you can follow exact
procedures. Online stores for these manuals can be found on my Education
Center page. –
Mama Monday, May 1 For Lynn whose V-Star hand controls are proving to be a challenge: It is inherent in the V-Stars for the clutch engagement point to be way out at the end of the lever. If you just adjust at the lever you will end up with too much freeplay at the lever. There is a kit made by one of the 650 forum members, which will eliminate the freeplay. He sells on ebay, usually costs around $17. I have one on my bike and it works great. Hope this helps. – Joanne (note from Mama: thanks for sharing!) That is where the friction zone is on the bike. You can adjust it a little by bringing in the clutch, but that is just the way they are. One advantage though, it only takes a bit to pull the clutch in as well! I had a 650 (not a custom) and experienced the same thing. – MommyDBA (note from Mama: looks like I'm learning as well!) I also have a VStar Classic that we bought in October. My clutch was really stiff as well and my husband fixed it by following the directions in the owner's manual. I am very short and have very small hands, and I have no problems with it now. It is really easy to adjust. – Linda in Oklahoma (note from Mama: ok, a source of adjustment info) A number of things to help. Finger exercises to get stronger. Immediate help would be perhaps an Easy Clutch installation in the trans -- not sure if this product works on other brands than HD? Also something from AMP Research that is an external fix -- works pretty well and reduces clutch pull about 40%. Can also buy clutch and brake levers that give a 10% pull reduction ( look on ebay). Also just loosen up your levers and move them around until you find a more comfy position for your hands that works well. – Dorathy Biddinger (note from Mama: more thoughts, excellent!) Monday, May 15 Dear VTwin Mama, I have an '05 HD Lowrider that is quickly becoming my best friend. My S/O and I often take day trips of 150-250 miles to different eating establishments around the state. I love riding and the feeling of freedom it provides. Now my problem. After riding approx 75 miles, my left shoulder starts aching. I get some relief by resting my arm in my lap when the road and conditions allow it. Do you have any idea what might be causing this? It only happens when riding. Otherwise my shoulder is just fine. I thank you in advance for any information or advice you or one of your readers might be able to provide. – Lowrider Lady (Susie) Dear Lowrider Lady, Typically, when a body part aches, it's time to take a closer look at your body position on the bike. Sit on the bike off the side kickstand (centered) and with your back straight, slowly reach your arms out to the controls. Do you find that you need to shift slightly in the seat, or lean a little forward, or raise your arms/shoulders up and or/forward to reach the controls? Now, drop your arms and then raise them to a position where your shoulders remain relaxed and your arms are extended comfortably. Note the difference (this could be just a small distance of how wide your arms are spread, or just a little bit further back, or a bit lower, or a combo of those things). If it's just a matter of back and/or lower, then adding a pullback riser would solve it. If the handlebar is too wide for total comfort, than you need to explore a new handlebar. I'll add that sometimes you leg to foot control position can also be a factor . . . if you sit on the bike and extend your leg, pay attention to how your back/shoulders shift in conjunction with your arms. Your leg position could be throwing your back into the smallest of a hunch position and then your shoulders are compensating. Again, a change to the handlebar could straighten everything up. Because it's the left arm, I'm wondering if the clutch
lever is adding to any of this. If I recall correctly, HD changed their
clutch levers for an easier pull by the 2005 models, but if you find that
you can handle the clutch action, but it can get achy when you have to
clutch a lot (i.e. heavy traffic), then you might want to explore a more
ergonomically correct clutch lever (more deeply curved blade so your
fingers don't have to grab so much distance, or there are products
that ease the entire pull action). It's possible that this is adding to
your shoulder ache . . . even though it doesn't manifest until later in
the ride, the clutching could be setting up the ache that is then more
evident down the road. –
Mama Wednesday, June 14 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Lisa, Tuesday, June 20 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Jerry, Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Jacqueline, Throttle wrist exhaustion can be relieved by the
addition of a Throttle
Rocker or Throttle Boss (many sources on these). –
Mama Thursday, June 22 For Jacqueline who is looking to change her body position on the motorcycle: I too am 5'1" and have a VStar 650 Classic. I had the same problem you did and I solved it by having a friend help me install Scootworks' Phatrisers II, which raise the bars 2.5 inches, and bring them back 3 inches. My elbows actually bend now! Follow the instructions for the rerouting of the cables, otherwise they're too tight. Riding is sooo much more comfortable now and I LOVE my VStar!!! – Rose in CA (note from Mama: thanks for noting the exact product you used to make the change!) Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Hate Being Short, To date I don't believe any of us have found a kit to relocate a Sporty's forward controls a bit back. The question is whether it's your feet reach to the pegs, the distance of your foot from the peg to the end of the lever, or both. A shorter reach to the footpeg would require a bridge piece (like an oval with two bolt holes) and then a shorter linkage piece. You might want to talk with an independent motorcycle shop to see if they can assist. In looking at the '06 JP Cycles Big Book, I see alternative controls, but am not convinced they are radically different than the stock, but again, it's worth a look. Click on Parts for my Harley, then scroll down to Footpegs, Floorboards, Forward Controls section. J&P Cycles. Here I'd be looking to see if the lever portion is shorter. – Mama Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Robin, Monday, July 31 For Robin who is looking to ease throttle hand ache: I have a Throttle Rocker on my Low Rider and I absolutely love it. I no longer have my right hand go numb when riding long distances. Wish I had gotten it a long time ago. – Elaine (note from Mama: thanks for sharing!) Saturday, August 5 Dear VTwin Mama, Anyway . . . I have a problem with my hands. My left hand is pretty sore, but my right hand had some paresthesia!! I have very little strength in my index, middle, and ring finger. It's slowly improving, but I'm worried that it will come back every time I ride (we're getting motorcycles next week - something small and used for me). Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks, – Cheryl Dear Cheryl, Nope, you're not alone on issues with hand strength, mobility, and chronic problems. For your right hand, you can consider adding a Throttle Rocker which will fit any bike you choose. This takes the tension off of your fingers because you've got assistance using your stronger lower thumb/palm area. Make sure you go to a big empty parking lot for practice to acclimate yourself to the added device (a good suggestion any way for a new rider . . . treat that "new" bike with respect by putting yourself through all your course work, but on your bike!). Your left hand is a little trickier, because it depends on the bike you choose. While you're shopping, you'll want to activate the clutch lever to see what pull strength you'll need and explore if there are adjustments/modifications that can be made. Some levers offer different settings, some can be adjusted for a engage/disengage point closer to the beginning of the clutch lever travel, and for other bikes, a different clutch lever or action ease can be added (like EZ Clutch, EZ Pull or Power Clutch, etc.). When you find a bike you would consider buying, a quick call to the local dealer should help you discover the exact modification options. Happy shopping! –
Mama Saturday, August 19 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Kelly, First, it could just be a factor of the Kawi model, but as these are used in MSF courses, I haven't heard anything that indicates it's a chronic problem. So, my next question is, has that motorcycle ever been dropped on its left side . . . either by you or a previous owner (that you know of)? It's possible that when it landed, the shaft that the shift lever is attached to got bent. This is a common enough problem. Take a look, and if necessary, take the shift lever off so you can eyeball down the shaft. If it's still not apparent, ride the bike over to the dealer and have the service department take a quick look. A shifting problem that seems to get worse and worse is often the symptom of a bent shift shaft. Last, but not least, it could just be how the shift
lever is positioned relative to your foot and your choice of riding boot
could be a factor. If the angle is too deep down or too high up, your boot
toe may not be catching it for the shift with the least amount of pressure
necessary. Thus, you end up "forcing" the shift. This is a
simple reposition of the lever angle so look for that screw or bolt
attaching the lever and adjust! –
Mama Dear VTwin Mama, I've been pretty successful over the years in customizing my bikes for my short size with one exception . . . highway pegs!!! I'm 5'2" and I cannot find highway pegs that fit my short legs comfortably. They are always a stretch and I end up never using them. The long, adjustable Kuryakyn cruise pegs came close to reaching my legs, but I had to ride with my knees locked straight and it was a chore to keep my feet up on them. Generally it's not a big problem, but recently, after about 1,200 miles of highway riding in 2 days, my knees were screaming!! By the time we got to Sturgis, I was more than happy to hop on my husband's back instead and stretch my legs on the passenger boards! My husband and I talked with many short female riders at Bike Week this year, asking how they like their highway pegs. I thought maybe I could find some insight from one of them. As it turns out EVERY ONE OF THEM had the same problem! They either don't use their pegs, or just hook their boot over the top of their pegs, riding with their knees locked straight and uncomfortable. I am hoping that there is someone on this site somewhere with a solution. My knees would love any suggestions!!! :) I ride a Softail Deluxe these days, if that's important in this matter. – Claudia Dear Claudia, Thursday, August 24 For
DeeTee who was struggling with her Rebel shifter and boot choice: I returned the boots, ended up buying another pair of HD's. Same problem. Then I searched the web and found Jack's Rebel Salvage (new and used parts). I purchased a pair of floor boards especially made for my wonderful little Rebel. Awesome! Made all the difference in the world. Much more comfortable for long rides, too. (My husband and I just got back from a camping trip on our bikes, his HD Sporster and my Rebel.) And the fellow (Jack?) that answers the phone is very kind and helpful. They do not take web orders, only phone orders. Happy riding to all! Hugs from Portland, Oregon, – Teresa, aka Rebel Mama and Ms. Prl (note from Mama: yes, that is in fact Jack at Jack's Cycle and Salvage (407-321-5242 in central FL or toll free 800-240-0393) . . . I have sent a number of Rebel riders to Jack to noodle out tricky challenges and I've heard back that he's just the tops! I originally found Jack from Dale's Honda Rebel Online site . . . a great resource for Rebel riders! Thanks for sharing the shift/peg distance solution you found!) Sunday, August 27 For Claudia whose reach to highway bar pegs is a stretch: I also have the problem of being too short for certain footpegs. I have found that putting on floorboards is a decent solution, but may not be best for long distance (1,200 miles in 2 days) rides. I would be extremely happy if someone knew of another solution. – Jen (note from Mama: I believe Claudia's bike already has floorboards and those do make a difference for longer rides, but having a second leg position is helpful for many riders. So far no other alternatives have come in.) Monday, August 28 More for Claudia whose reach to highway bar pegs is a stretch: Hi Mama -- was looking for something else on eBay the other day and ran across Grandpa's New Adjustable Highway Bar. Looks rather interesting and might help Claudia! – Kansas Girl (note from Mama: enough pictures to see this solution clearly . . . it's starts out as a highway bar but ends in pegs. Returns are accepted. Only Harley models are shown. Super interesting!) Monday, September 4 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Nancy Lou, Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Anon, Next, try raising your arms while keeping your body in the seat comfortably and letting your arms/hands float in front without shifting your body and relaxed shoulders. If that's not where the ends of the handlebars are, note whether your most natural position is closer together, further back, or both. If it's just further back (even by an inch), then the addition of a pullback riser will get those hand controls solved. If you need the ends closer together, that's a new handlebar. I can see looking at pictures of the Solo and Stinger
seats, that the Stinger looks like a narrower, more straight back
position. Readers with input should chime in! –
Mama Monday, September 18 For Anon who has a Honda Aero, may want a new seat, and I noted maybe handlebar: I have the 2004 Aero. Stock seats are made to sell the bike in the show room and maybe a short test ride, after that you're on your own. There is a break in period for your seat and your bum. I have 9,000 miles on my bike and can go all day (guess I got broke in, cause 30 mile got me when I first got my bike). Still have the original seat. I did put a Utopia Back Rest on, it helped with my lower back. Pullback Riser from the Magna, for my shoulders. I know a couple people that swear by those Gel/Memory foam seat pads. You could give that a try. Happy Riding, – Jennifer WV (note from Mama: thanks for sharing the modifications you made and the added thought on adding a seat pad (which can be internal or external to the seat.) Monday, September 18 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear CL, Wednesday, September 20 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Brenda, Tuesday, October 3 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Carol, Otherwise, now is the time to order up the free metric
parts catalogs from places like J&P
Cycles and Dennis
Kirk. For instance, in the Dennis
Kirk catalog I see this interesting page on brake pedals for your
exact motorcycle which looks like a bolt-on addition to the stock pedal
which could lift the height up. I like having print catalogs because it
allows me to look through sections (those pesky names for things then are
available!) and then hop online to see and order. Start with these ideas
and see if the solution doesn't present itself. –
Mama Monday, October 16 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Woody, Monday, October 23 Hi VTM, Oh, and love the forum you created for everyone and I think people are having so much fun . . . thanks. – Debby Dear Debby, Personally I would purchase/keep boots that are comfortable to wear. I know that some people like to switch to floorboards for better foot support and positioning and even the mini "wings" are reported to be more comfortable than the peg-style. If you haven't done so already, get the J&P Cycles and Dennis Kirk catalogs, which are free and available in HD and metric editions. You've got a good chance of seeing a wider range of possibilities when you have the print catalogs in front you! – Mama Hi Petra, Dear Mary, Well, the change of foot control positioning won't change the motorcycle's center of gravity, but it certainly will change yours! Our body's center is at the hips and anytime we "rearrange" our body around our center, there is a corresponding effect. The most common reason to change to forward controls is to allow the legs to stretch out more. So, if your knees/legs are feeling a bit constricted in their current position, this is a great way to achieve a more relaxed riding position. If you basically like your riding position, but are looking for a second position (especially useful for longer rides of greater distances), then a highway bar (often called an engine gruard0 with incorporated highway pegs can be added to achieve that. Your balance on handling the bike (your "oneness") will alter slightly, as whether we know it or not, we do use our entire bodies to direct the bike. Sure, we talk about countersteering when negotiating a curve in the road, but that press or pull on the handlebar does alter our hip position and are legs shift as well. It's itsy bitsy, but it's there. This is a simple matter of returning to an empty parking lot to go through all the beginning steps to get the slow stuff "recalculated" and then onto the road to work through the shift in balance. There's nothing really to jazz about too much . . . just a realization that any time we change something, we should respect the change and take time to explore how it alters our riding reality. An interesting sidenote: with foot controls directly beneath our hips, we are more likely to naturally pick up both our feet at the same time when we motor away from a stop position. When we move both feet evenly from the ground to the pegs, we don't accidentally set up an off-balance shift at our hips. Pick up one foot before the other and it's easy to get a wobble at the handlebar (it shifts our hips momentarily, which translates to a correction attempt at the handlebar). Keep that in mind if/when you change to forward controls. Another thing that can happen in changing to forward controls is that the handlebar now feels a bit more distant. I think this is because with our legs thrust more forward, our hip/lower back folds slightly back, and we're left reaching for the handlebar. For shorter riders, even this small change can have an effect and there might be a need to add a pullback riser to correct the change. The only other thing that I can think of is that often times riders will raise their butt off the saddle when crossing over a speed bump or other raised road thing, especially when they don't want to slow down that much. With foot controls beneath us, this is an easy enough thrust up . . . with forward controls, the technique can be done, but it's different! Not a huge deal, but another one of those "things." So, I hope my rambling on the subject has given you food for thought! – Mama Thursday, November 23 For Mary who is considering switching to forward foot controls: My first bike had mid controls. I rode it all year when I started riding, so it became automatic for me to put my feet up in that position when taking off from a stop. But, when my husband brought home my new bike that had forward controls, my body "thought" that my feet had to go in the mid control position again. I had to practice a lot on my take offs because I wasn't used to the forward controls. So Mary, practice, practice and practice some more!!! – Melissa from Idaho (note from Mama: thanks for strengthening the message that practice is important when a change is made to a motorcycle! Sounds like you're doing just fine!) Dear
VTwin Mama, Situation: just bought a '93 Honda VT600c; ran fine no problems. Was practicing riding last night, panicked on a turn, stayed on the throttle and dumped it. Handlebars turned left, dinged the tank, tore off left turn signal, bent clutch lever (just a bit). I rode it about 200yrds to park it. Trouble: This morning I went out to inspect it, started it and it was fine, but when I pull in the clutch lever I hear a slight grinding noise, and when I try to put it in first gear the motor stalls, starts fine in neutral, but as soon as I try to put it into gear it stalls. Any thoughts? BTW -- I'm fine and will be practicing much more. Thanks for your help. – saint1streeet Dear
saint1street, Because the bike dropped on its left side, let's look at a couple of things. First, the clutch lever. The clue is that it's slightly bent and you hear a grinding by just pulling it in. Can you identify approximately where the grinding noise is coming from? When we pull in the clutch lever, engine power is transferred to the clutch basket and the springs and pressure plate squeeze together so that drive plates can transfer power through the clutch hub to the transmission. Although you may only see the small bend in the clutch lever, it's highly possible that the clutch cable, which runs from the lever, and begins the whole process, has been disturbed or the adjustment is no longer in spec (yes, it's a small adjustment to keep it right). If the cable positioning/adjustment isn't right, the whole spring/plate squeeze won't have the same "positive" clamping and could account for the grind (the plates are trying to align to each other correctly but the cable adjustment isn't allowing that to happen). At the same time, when you do try to put it into first gear, it stalls because the same stuff isn't connecting correctly. Second, I would take a closer look at the shift lever. It's possible that the shift lever and/or the shift shaft bent (this happens easily enough and is a common problem with a left-side drop). So, look at the lever, then pull it off, and eyeball down the mechanism to see if you can detect something there. Depending on your mechanical background, or your willingness to give it a go anyway, it's best to have the service manual for your bike to put things right. If you don't have one, you can hop on to my Education Center page to find online sources to order one, or call your local dealer to get one. It's a good thing to have anyway! Otherwise, you'll need to get the bike to a mechanic. Despair not . . . you're not the first person who had to noodle this kind of thing out, nor will you be the last! For future thought . . . if you panic or something else happens where there is too much power, pulling in the clutch lever is the fastest way to remove power from the bike, and it doesn't matter how much you "roar" on the throttle. I'm glad you'll be back out practicing as soon as things are running again. – Mama Friday, December 15 From saint1street who solves her 1st gear/stall problem: Hate to say it but I was just being a noob. My bike has an auto shutoff if the kickstand is still down. That's what I was trying to do . . . start it, but I hadn't put the kickstand up. Oops, humbling. – saint1street (note from Mama: gosh darn those safety switches! Glad to hear it turn out to be something simple, and don't think you're the first one to overlook the obvious. Sometimes when I need to move the bike only a few feet, but need power to do so, I forget to bring the kickstand up and bam, a stall and my sheepish grin! ) |
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