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Article on how to measure for a new handlebar from JP Cycle Tech Talk
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2007 Hi
Petra, The only thing that I really dislike about the bike is the heel shifter. There are times that I'm doing just great, then my foot starts hitting the rear of the floorboard and shifts me into another gear. THIS is not good when traveling up a concrete drive that is very steep. I nudged her down into first to start the dreaded climb up the drive when I obviously heeled it into second gear, which lead me into a stall, trying to knock it back down into first, it was just too late, the grade of hill, the weight, me feeling a little panic and there being no footing to the left of me, I was gone. Before I knew it, I was going down, I hear the concrete against my bike as I was (in slow motion) falling my 5'3", 200 pound butt into a ravine. Needless to say, I looked and felt like a huge turtle on it's back, legs and arms wailing around. My first fear -- the bike would slide on off the drive and land on me, now I'm 50 years old (not saying anything about being overweight) and just don't move too fast. My head was lower than my feet and I just couldn't get out of the ravine, like I said, a turtle, get a visual here, it's not a pretty sight. Thank goodness, it's 6:30 in the afternoon and dark, no one in sight. I wasn't hurt, bruised a little and more sore than anything. The bike, well, broken tail light, scared up highway bar and the mirror is a little disfigured, but other than that we're okay. My husband said, well, it just adds character to her. Now this has been said, my question . . . can that crazy heel shifter come off, cut off, unscrew off, anything? I think that I would have less trouble if it were out of my life. Safe Riding, Lee Ann Miles Dear
Lee Ann, According to postings on the Delphi VStar 650 forum (it's highly active, you need to register, but well worth it!), I found references to your question in the Do It Yourself & Fixes section . . . yes, the heel part can be cut off without affecting any part of the shifting sequence. Several tools (hacksaw, saws-all, dremel) to do this were mentioned, just be careful, and VStarBob mentioned you might want to clean up the cut with a file or bench grinder and then use a little paint to touch up the cut. The question about whether it can be completely removed and just a standard shifter added did not net any answers. In a previous letter, Bootygrandma noted that older VStars could not be retrofitted with a heel/toe shifter because of how the kickstand was oriented to the frame, but this leaves me wondering if the reverse is true. A call to the local dealer's parts department should get you an answer pretty quickly. I'll simply note that often times, the floorboard system is totally integrated with the heel/toe shift system, so a change out is not always straightforward. Mama Thursday, January 18 For Lee Ann who oopsied on a steep hill and wonders about the heel/toe shifter: I was just wondering if the problem may be with shifting, rather than the shifter. I would think going up a steep driveway slowly, you would have to shift and accelerate pretty quickly to stay upright. Maybe she just need some practice with shifting and being in the proper gear prior to going up the driveway. I just had floor boards and a heal/toe shifter installed on my bike last week and love it. Found I can shift even faster, and it makes for a more comfortable ride. Just a thought, hope it helps. Carole (note from Mama: there's no doubt that a steep hill can get the best of use if we're not paying attention or not practiced enough . . . at least Lee Ann has info to consider for her next step, including your thoughts!) Monday, February 5 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
ActorScott, First, double check that you not overfilling the oil; too much oil is not good for a motorcycle; never fill beyond maximum fill level. Next, an oil viscosity (too heavy) is also a concern. According to Mark Zimmerman's The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance, "The excess oil or the thicker oil can prevent the [clutch] plates from separating cleanly." If this is not the case, then you must consider another adjustment of the clutch cable or the clutch itself. Again, from Mr. Zimmerman's book: he notes that "creep" is adjusted out by adjusting the cable where it meets the lever. You should have proper freeplay (usually around 3mm or 1/8", which is the amount you can pull in your clutch lever before you feel even the smallest amount of force) without creep. If you take out the freeplay, the creep will go away, but now you are in danger of introducing a prematurely worn-out clutch because as the clutch heats up in normal operation there must be some freeplay. If the freeplay is right, but the bike is creeping, you'll need to look down the cable to see if you have another inline adjuster. If you don't then it's on to a clutch adjustment at the hub. For this you'll have to refer to a service manual. If you get to this point, I can pass on general notes that may or may not apply to your vintage motorcycle. Good luck in your next steps! Mama Monday, February 12 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Anon, Friday, February 16 Dear
VTwin
Mama, Dear
Driftdaddy, So, on your push cable, all is well if twisting the throttle has the correct corresponding reaction time but isn't "twitchy," meaning every little move causes the bike idle to soar. This needs to be checked with the handlebars centered and also fully to each side. On the pull cable, if it's too tight, you may not be able to open the throttle fully and too loose means the throttle won't snap back to "home." This adjustment is typically at the carb end of the cable. I'll also note that the routing of these cables is important. They need to be free of any binding, kinking ,etc. Also, if the cables are long enough, but aren't secured to the handlebar a bit down the cable length, whipping in the wind can cause problems, like the throttle stuck in the wide open position (read that real life nightmare on the Internet, he had to wrestle the throttle closed again). That leaves lubrication. It could be that the new cables need a squirt of lubrication. I'm hoping this review reveals the solution. Mama Monday, February 19 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Trixy, More important . . . get those handlebars positioned correctly so that your ride comfort/safety is maximized. If that means longer cables, then do it. If you're going to try replacement on your own, make sure you have the service manual for your bike (an aftermarket version is about $25 and one of the best investments you can make). Online sources for manuals can be found on my Education Center page. The manual will spell out removal and reinstallation steps you need to do and any tools needed. It's not that difficult, but you've got to pay attention to the steps so that the clutch isn't too loose or dragging and the throttle responds and snaps back correctly. The brake line(s) will need to be bled if you replace the lines. I can appreciate that you don't really want to have to contemplate the changes if new cables are needed, but correctly placed handlebars are the bomb! (do people still use that term?!?!?!) Mama Thursday, March 15 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Marilyn, Tuesday, April 10 Dear
Petra, I found that a CrampBuster really helps me to enjoy longer rides because of some nerve damage to my right hand. There are things out there that will help you and your motorcycle become a team, just ask someone and it has probably already been invented and you can walk into a dealer and have it installed. Oh, I would also like to recommend a couple of DVDs to all. The first is the Ride Like a Pro series, I have #4 and it is invaluable to the beginner. The correct use of the friction zone is a great skill to have when you go for the Motorcycle safety course. The other one is the DVD The World's Fastest Indian, which I bought for my dad for Christmas. He rode an Indian in his younger days and still loves them. The story is great, the bikes and vintage cars and pickups are authentic and very cool, and if you are familiar at all with the Burt Munro story, you will love it. If you like great movies on a rainy night, (or a rainy day when you can't ride) these have a lot of information, and are a lot of fun. Keep on informing and empowering us, Petra! Patty Dear
Patty, Tuesday, April 24 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Leslie, If part of the issue has to do with the how wide the handlebar is (from clutch lever to front brake lever) and you feel that your arms are simply too spread out, then a new handlebar is the answer. Mama Tuesday, April 24 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Doreen, Because the previous owner noted nothing out of the ordinary, it's possible that the front brake action is simply that "tight." Let's see if any readers with this model have something to add. Meanwhile, there is no reason that you can't visit the local dealer's service department and pose the question to them. True, their stock response might be to bring the bike in for a check, but if you inquire about the $$ for a check, it may be within your budget (and piece of mind) to do so. If you ride the bike to the dealer, sometimes you can get a service person to ride the bike and test it out quickly in the parking lot . . . best then to do this during on a slower day (i.e. not on a weekend, or at least, on a Saturday when they first open up). At the same time, you can ask the parts department about a change in brake levers. A call may suffice, but I often find that one can get more time on a response in person. Mama Update: Mark's added notes because he missed the point about it being used: 1. Inspect the pads for wear, if the pads aren't within spec replace them and inspect the disc for signs of wear and especially rust, machine or replace as required. 2. Check the caliper slides and clean and lubricate them, if their are any signs of sticking or galling, using an approved synthetic brake grease or anti seize lubricant. 3. Change the brake fluid, this should be done every two years. 4. Lubricate the brake lever pivot. (every two years) 5. Excess brake dive is often a symptom of a inadequate fork damping (compression) or a weak fork spring. So that's something else she may want to examine. Tuesday, April 24 Dear
VTwin Mama, But as I continue to ride it, I feel like a few modifications are in store. I immediately had the easy pull clutch kit installed before I ever picked it up from the dealership and of course installed grips and foot pegs, my mid controls were even hard to get used to, but on the Dyna, forwards would be too far for my short legs. Anyway, I am still needing to change the handlebars, for a pullback style, and of course if they are taller, all of my electrical and brake, throttle and clutch cables would have to be replaced, as they would be to short for the new handlebars. So, my question is do you know of a way to get this feature without all that replacement at this time? Also, any resolutions to all the vibration from the rubber mounts? Your site is very helpful. Thanks. Jeanne Hunnicutt Dear
Jeanne, There is no shortcut to cable length. If you change to something that the cables can't reach, they must be changed for something longer. Sometimes cables can be rerouted slightly, but probably will only give you a short extra distance. Then you have to be aware that cables "whipping" in the wind (i.e. no longer tied down properly to the handlebar/frame) can cause problems. As you contemplate a new handlebar you'll want to double check that longer cables are available. You might also just want to consider a pullback riser instead of a new one if the current handlebar width, etc. is just fine. These come in all sorts of up and back "lengths." It could be that just an inch up, etc. is going to meet your needs, and the cables might extend for such a change. Hmmm on the vibration of your rubber-mounted engine as this was HD's solution to previous vibration concerns. Given that this motorcycle is only 2 years old, I'm wondering if you wouldn't be smart to get that to the dealer for testing. They can put it on their machine, ramp up the speed, and get a printout of vibration, etc. and see if it is within limits. About $75 or so. I would try to get this cost covered under the warranty policy. Mama Wednesday, May 2 Dear
VTwin Mama, I've asked on a couple of forums about swapping a set of levers from a 2006 Kawasaki Concours, since they have adjustable settings on them. Dial the levers in to get them closer to the grips is a great feature to add to a list of bike buying criteria. I wonder if the Concours clutch/brake equipment would work, or is it too much trouble to replace/work with all of the clamp differences in bar diameter, etc? Thank you and everyone for any thoughts on this. (I did look at the HD type clutch info, but not sure if it is adaptable to non-HD, their website does not offer much for non-HD bike type info). bik3rbunny Dear
bik3rbunny, Over time, we've tried to find lever solutions that are closer to the grip for smaller hands. Mostly what we've found is easier pull levers, but that doesn't necessarily shorten the distance from lever to grip, just makes the pull less of a struggle, and that's always about the clutch lever. Companies like Avalon CycleWorks, which offer easy pull levers for HD bikes (AMP) are working on metric versions. My understanding is that it's best to always get something made for your make/model bike . . . One suggestion has been to go to a certified welder, who can heat a lever up and re-bend it. The cautionary note here is that is may compromise the strength integrity of the lever. Sometimes one can find an aftermarket set-up that does have a lever that is closer, but this really involves a dealer's parts department's experience level . . . they have got to know what they are looking at. If you get the J&P Cycles catalog and the Dennis Kirk catalog (metric bike editions are available), you can do some searching on your own. These catalogs are free! ASV Inventions has adjustable levers, but it's best to call about their "universal" fit just to be sure. In terms of using a Concours lever on the Vulcan, I'd pose the question to the local dealer. Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Donna, Next, you need to check the cable reach to the hand controls (clutch and front brake) . . . they only "reach" so far. Another important consideration are the cutouts (notches) that allow wires to pass through a handlebar correctly . . . this is usually why one buys a new handlebar specific to the year/make/model of motorcycle. So, let's look at your question from another angle. What is the difference in your friend's handlebar that you like? If it's because the controls are closer to your body, you would be able to add a pullback riser to your handlebar set-up . . . it's cheap and easy . . . go to your dealer to explore a bit more. If the difference is about the width (the distance from end to end), then yes, you'll need to explore a new handlebar. To get an idea, hop onto HD's official page of handlebars for various Sportsters. If you measure your own handlebar, then you can also hop onto aftermarket sites like J&P Cycles or Dennis Kirk and do some shopping. I'd stick to something designed specifically for your Sporty. Mama Friday, May 18 For Donna who is considering new handlebars for her Sportster: Most HD Dealerships have a frame bike setup where they can attach various handlebars so you can test them out. I have Dyna Bars on my Sporty that are very comfy. Ask the parts manager to help you out by explaining to him what your needs are - do you need the bars to come back in closer to you - do you want them wider, etc. perhaps he can go with you to a Sporty on the showroom floor to see what your issues are and then select different bar setups and try them out on the "pretend bike." Ratzuki (note from Mama: I had no idea this was possible . . . such a good idea . . . thanks for sharing!) Monday, May 21 More for Donna who is considering new handlebars for her Sportster: I've got a 2005 883C that I put HD Softtail handlebars on. I love them. They put me in a much more relaxed position and made handling the bike so nice. I could not believe the difference they made. The guy at the Harley shop where I went to ask about changes that could be made to make me more comfortable had this suggestion. Sit on your bike with your hands on your thighs (assuming you hold your bike upright with your feet). Close your eyes and then bring your hands up to where they feel "good". Open your eyes and see where they are. Then start looking at different handle bars that would accommodate that position. Good luck, Denise (note from Mama: thanks for noting a specific change that works for you!) Monday, May 21 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Anon, I suppose it's possible that you're hitting the shifter so fast that the shift forks don't have time to coordinate the shift positions within the transmission (I'm really guessing here). I'm pretty sure your motorcycle has a standard clutch cable (vs. a hydraulic clutch) so it's also possible that the freeplay is slightly out of adjustment (cables stretch over time), so I would check the amount of pull on the cable before the cable actually feels like a pull, which is about 3mm or 1/8 inch, but check your bike specifications. Too much or little makes a difference. Vulcan rider readers, is this just something specific to this make/model that I don't know about? Mama Monday, May 21 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Ginny, What I'd be looking for is a pullback riser for the handlebar so that you can sit up straighter in the saddle and get the weight of your upper body off the handlebar. This is inexpensive and easy to install, but double check with the dealer as some bike's handlebar mounting is such that it doesn't allow this modification. Throttle hands can also cramp just because they have to hold that control in place with no chance to release and rest. In this case, a Throttle Rocker may prove to be an inexpensive fix. If you look at the Throttle Rocker site, you'll see it's a device that attaches easily but allows you to hold the throttle open with your palm instead of having to grip your fingers and hold. Mama Friday, May 25 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Cynthia, Dear VTwin Mama, I need to find another bike since there is no play in the cables to change out the handlebars (have already tried) and I'm looking at a Vulcan 900 Classic. Wish they would let you test ride bikes outside of the parking lot so you could get a real feel for them. Anonymous Dear
Anon, Did you know that some bikes do have longer cables available for them? I'd double check with the local dealer's parts department . . . that would allow you to do something with the handlebar, like a pullback riser or new if needed. Mama Tuesday, June 5 For Anon whose Honda Spirit is causing shoulder pain: The 750 Honda is a great bike! It was my very first bike and I sometimes still miss it! I, too, had problems with the 'drag bars.' My husband switched them out. We used buckhorn bars that had been on a Sportster (they were the right price -- free!). Any one inch bar should work. You will have to switch out the cables; the most expensive one was the brake line, but still cheaper then buying a new bike! Figure out which bars you want first so that then you can measure the length of cable you will need. You might want to check out this Delphi forum specific to this bike; registration on Delphi is free. I got a lot of good info from here when I had my Spirit! A lot of technical stuff for 'do it yourselfers' as well! Good luck -- don't give up on the bike if you love it! Kansas Gal (note from Mama: thanks for noting a specific change that works for you!) From Anon with more info: The guy working on my bike says it would cost too much money to run new cables. He said it would take 10 hrs of labors on top of cost of cables. I'm real frustrated. I'm looking for risers now on the Internet and don't even know if they'll work because I already have 6 " risers on bike. It was a suggestion by all my bikin' buddies. (or else loosen the bars and angle them up a bit????). Anon (note from Mama: yikes, 10 hours for labor . . . that seems inflated . . . make some calls to other nearby dealers and independent shops just to get a reality check on that! Yes, there is a clamp that holds the handlebar in place. It can be loosened and the bar rotated. As long as it doesn't affect your hand control positioning, this might help with pain. What you want to do is sit on your bike, centered, close your eyes, and lift your arms into a comfortable position. Now, open your eyes and see where your hands are in realtion to where the handlebar controls are now. That will give you clues.) Friday, June 8 For Mary who took her first solo longer trip and Diane who responded: I, too, have a 2002 Honda Shadow Ace and re: Diane's comment about the arm controls being high, it boils down to the width of the handle bars. I measured mine at about 31" inside the handlebars from left to right (at the end of each grip). When riding, my arms are straight out, almost in a locked position, and it causes a burn in the back muscles and a strain on the neck. I am looking for another handlebar with maybe a 23/24" internal width . . . at least I'll be able to have a bend in the elbows because I no longer will have to reach so far out. Go to your local Honda dealer (usually sell Kaws, Suzuki's and Hondas), take your tape measure, sit on the bikes (new and previously owned) and find a handlebar that fits you. That's where I'm heading this weekend. Thanks Petra . . . your site is so awesome. Donna, aka Shadow Runner (note from Mama: thanks for sharing what you'll be looking at for more comfort!) Wednesday, June 20 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
BB, Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Jacob, In some cases it's all about your foot position underneath the foot shifter itself . . . if you're cocking your foot too far up or down to "activate" the lever, you're straining the shift lever and it will shift harder. Take a look at your foot position . . . .on some models the lever assembly can be removed and repositioned for a better foot angle. Otherwise, call up the local dealer's service department and tell them your concerns. Arrange to bring it in so they can take it for a spin in the lot . . . they should be able to tell if the shifting is out of the ordinary (if you feel you really can't gauge it yourself). Changing the hydraulic oil for the clutch is a good idea every few years and I'm guessing no one has done that since 2002. Make sure you follow the service manual on that one . . . it's quite a specific procedure. Mama Friday, June 22 From Jacob who is noodling out difficult shifting on his 2002 Intruder 1500: Thanks for the reply. I've changed the clutch oil at the Suzuki dealer on Saturday. It still shifts rough and hard to find neutral. It's funny, I had synthetic oil in the bike before and it was better but the dealer told me that its not made for v-twins and can make the clutch slip. What a joke, it got worse. Any other suggestions? Thanks. Jacob (note from Mama: Travis Brown of LubeHelp is an advertiser at this site . . . see his ad in the left column and consider talking to him more about using synthetic oil. If you're sure the shift shaft isn't bent, then you may want to review that you've got the right oil in the engine/tranny . . . the wrong viscosity can cause problems. If your bike has a shift linkage, that could be out of adjustment. Otherwise, you'll need to drop the tranny and inspect the shift drum, the gears, and the shift forks. If that bike was ridden hard by the previous owner, internal damage could have happened.) Tuesday, July 3 More for Lee Ann who oopsied on a steep hill and wonders about the heel/toe shifter: Just came across your site while waiting for the work day to end, found a lot of useful information. Im responding to Lee Ann Miles question about toe heel shifter dislikes on her V-Star 650. Up until April 28th I had a '03 VT750 Honda Ace Edition, beautiful Burnt Orange with marbling on the side of the sheet metal. Unfortunately an older lady in her 70s decided that my bike looked better in a junk yard, so she ran into it with me on it. After several injuries, mostly broken ribs and shoulder injury, I decided to purchase another. This time I got an '07 V-Star 1100 with 0 miles on it. It felt comfortable, I liked the controls, the seat wasnt too bad, but may replace within the year. But I did have one big dislike about it. All of the bikes I have had, had foot boards on them, so I liked that about the V-Star, the heel shifter was sort of icing on the cake AT FIRST. But after getting a couple hundred miles on it, I decided that I no longer liked it, but couldnt figure out what to do. Then I had to take the MSF riders course so that I
could ride my bike to work (I work on a military installation that
requires all riders to have a MSF card). I finished it about two weeks
ago. The bikes they used gave me my first experience without using
footboards. I discovered I liked the foot pegs a lot better. So off to the land of the internet. I found the BikeBandit
website that has a lot of information as far as parts, part numbers
and diagrams. This works for a lot of different makes and models. The
V-Star Classic and Custom models use the same frames, almost, but the foot
rests whether footboards or pegs use the same location holes. The toe
shifter on the custom would be a direct replacement for the toe/heel
shifter on the Classic. So I am in the works of installing them on my
bike. Obviously I had to get the pegs, but if you want to stick with the
footboards you can direct replace the shifter with no modifications to the
existing set-up. Not to mention you would not have an ugly scar from the
cutting off of the heel shifter. The whole assembly I think ran about $90
from them. Also, I just verified the information you provided on
your bike and there would be very few parts for replacement, probably
about $40-50. Tuesday, July 10 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
DJ, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that it's unlikely that there are many choices of replacement brake pedals for your year/make/model as aftermarket offerings typically are more plentiful for the bigger cc motorcycles. However, you can look for what's called a clamshell cover. This is usually for looks, but you could find one that is longer than your original and put it right over the original. Sometimes they are just called brake pedal covers; others call them clamshells. Measure your current pedal dimensions. Go to your local dealer's parts department and have them open up their aftermarket product catalogs and show you what's available. There are ones made for specific bikes and then there are generic ones. Mama Thursday, July 12 Hi Mama, But, I'm only one man! I am trying to get help on production. I am so busy I can't keep up!!! Maybe with your article I can convince someone (that I have in mind) to mass produce these kits. I get calls and e-mails all the time for these kits. They work, I know, because it's on my bike! Thanx, Jeremy Huff, FastLane Racing, 901 Dexter St., Clay Center, KS 67432, 785-410-6948 Dear
Jeremy, Hi VTwin Mama, Just a note to
the other readers, I solved my "slightly" too big helmet problem
with a scarf like you suggested. Only this is a hair band, it's got the
elastic at the bottom that goes around the base of your scull, but the top
is a scarf. You pull it up over your face and stretch out the scarf part,
your pretty and don't have the dreaded helmet hair showing. It was at Wal-Mart
for 4$Cnd. It came in lots of colors and materials. It's quick to use, and
no tying knots. It fills up the little extra space that I had inside the
helmet, now my helmet doesn't feel loose in the wind. Dear
Kawa-Suzie, Yes, sore body parts indicate that an adjustment to the motorcycle could be useful. Typically handlebars that cause a reach, and thus a stretch or hunch of the back, manifests itself between the shoulder blades and can radiate down the back into the butt. For sore elbows I'm going to surmise that the ends of the handlebars are too wide for true comfort. The best way to gauge this is to sit on your motorcycle, centered and off the kickstand. If needed, have your hubby straddle the front tire and take a hold of the handlebar to steady you. Close your eyes and raise your arms to a comfortable position without regard to the current handlebar. Keep your back straight doing this. Now, open your eyes and take a look at the difference. One measurement is the reach towards the handlebar. The other is the width of your reach. If it's just the reach towards, then a pullback riser will solve it. If your arms need to move wider to get to the current hand control set-up then you'll need to explore a new handlebar. It could be both, but I think you get the basics of the situation. Now, sometimes all of this can be solved with a new seat set-up; something that moves you closer in your seating position. However, if you are comfortable in the seat and the leg reach to foot controls is excellent, I'd only work on the handlebars. Here is an interesting "How To Measure For The Right Handlebars" from JP Cycles so you can confidently talk to the dealer or aftermarket source. Mama Monday, July 23 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Anon, Monday, July 30 Hello VTM, Now, I am having a problem which I will try to explain. I guess I have short feet. I can't seem to get comfy on the foot peg. I put forward controls on and it is a bit better, but unless I lift my foot and move it forward, only the very tip of my boot gets under the shifter and is not enough to do the job. So I am constantly lifting my heal of the peg and sliding my foot forward to shift gears. Is this a stupid problem? It is just aggravating for me. Your thought would be appreciated. P.S. I LOVE THIS SITE! Sincerely, Janet Muller Dear
Janet, Your foot reach to shifter question isn't stupid and YOU ARE NOT ALONE! My suggestion is to take a look at the Kurakyn ISO-Wing Mini Board. This allows for greater resting comfort and positioning of your foot so you're not stuck on the peg with the heel of your riding boot. Lots of gals have noted this really did the trick. Double check with the local dealer that this change can be made to your new forward controls! Mama Monday, August 20 Hi Petra, I got lots of encouragement from your web site ... even if I didn't get it from most of my family and friends. They are all sure I am going to kill myself. My husband has decided that he will support my dreams and help me all he can even if he wishes I wouldn't do it. He is a Goldwing rider himself. After reading some of the material on your site, I decided that the thing to do is see how a bike that fit 'fairly well' could best be modified to suit my particular needs. I bought a Virago 250 as it didn't seem quite so intimidating to me as some bigger and heavier bikes and I can touch my feet easily flat to the ground. It already has forward controls so that will help me be able to ride even with my knee problems. What I need now is some adjustment of the levers ... brake mostly, but also the clutch. They feel like they are slightly too far from my fingers and cause thumb pain when my thumb is on the hand grip. My local Yamaha dealer says there is nothing that can be changed on them. I am a bit dubious about that ... thinking he is just one of those guys that thinks I am too old to be doing this, a crazy woman, etc. and so not going to encourage me. If you or your readers have any suggestions I would appreciate it. Sandra Dear
Sandra, The right hand could be aided by adding what's called a Throttle Rocker. This is a device that allows your palm to take the brunt of holding that throttle open. It fits any motorcycle, and for $11, is a good buy! My thinking is that if the palm can do the work, then you don't have to keep your thumb wrapped away from the other fingers and possibly make the front brake pull that much less stressed. Take a look and see what you think! It's true that while solutions for less-wide reach to the levers are far and few between, and even less so for smaller motorcycles, there may be help. I would contact an independent bike shop and ask if they have the capability to heat up the levers and bend them slightly inward (more inward curve). There have been suggestions that this might weaken the lever, but I'd have a talk with the shop owner(s) and see what they have to say. You might try visiting ASV Inventions and inquire whether their levers might work with your motorcycle. Readers with Virago 250s, I don't remember if there is an easy pull clutch system for these bikes ... kindly remind me! Mama Monday, September 10 Dear Mama, My husband has taken me out to the local college several times to get me used to my bike & I feel I have done real well; in FIRST!!! My problem is shifting. I have very short feet; my left heel gets caught behind the shifter. We have searched all over for boots that have no heel & good traction, but have not found anything that is within a reasonable amount of $$$. I have asked at our local motorcycle shop (where I bought my bike & my husband bought his earlier this year) about a shorter shifter, but they couldn't come up with anything either. Any suggestions or insights? I have thought about floorboards, but until I get through the Safety Course I would rather stick to what I will be used to (standard peg & shifter). My husband has been great by taking me on road trips with my bike, but I am soooo wanting to get out there and ride freely... Thanks, Anonymous Dear
Anon, Riding boots without heel is difficult to find, especially one that still has that traction sole that is so useful for pushing a bike around while sitting on it. Readers, did we find anything useful lately? Mama Monday, October 1 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Jeff, Tuesday, March 4 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Hopeless in Vegas, Tuesday, March 4 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Judy, I would start with your clutch lever. Is it possible that you are not pulling in the clutch lever fully when you shift? The older Sportys had a harder pull action, which can make problems for people with smaller or less strong hands. Go to the bike (it doesn't need to be running) and both of you pull in that clutch and see what's what.. If that's the case, then look into an EZ Clutch, which will reduce the pull action by half ... it's truly amazing! If that's not it, then I would turn my attention to your foot under the shift lever. Sometimes what happens is a lazy shift, and it's most often caused when our foot/boot isn't positioned correctly. Sit on the bike and take a closer look. Is your foot positioned right underneath the lever? Are you shifting from the side of your foot or reaching your toes too far upward to do the shift? Or perhaps your foot is jammed in tight underneath the shift lever. Often times one can loosen the shift lever and reposition it so the foot/boot fits comfortably under it and the lazy shift is solved. So, look at those two things and see if the solution isn't there. Mama Wednesday, March 5 Dear VTwin Mama, Question, I am considering adding pull back risers to my bike to both raise the handle bar position some and to move the bar back closer to me, as I am still in a slightly forward leaning position. How much of a pull back riser can I add and still utilize the stock throttle, brake, and clutch cables? None, 2 inches, 4.5 inches or what? The stock seat fits pretty good but will probably change it out for a LePera Bare Bones, or a reach seat. I believe that either would also lower the seat, correct? Dick D. Dear Dick, If you start with the seat, you may not need to add a pullback riser; likewise, if you add the pullback riser, you may not need to get a new seat! So, first I looked at seats: I called up three separate Internet files so I could toggle back and forth to get a visual fix: stock photo, Le Pera Bare Bones (you'll have to call up the specific page), HD Reach. While the Le Pera BB is lower and narrower (designed to bring you down in seat height), that Reach seat looks more padded and will move you forward (they say 1/2", but that can be significant to your needs). Since your feet are already firmly on the ground, I'd be more inclined to consider the Reach seat. In looking at that same 2006 stock bike picture, I can see some cable slack, but those pictures are taken with the front wheel straightened out. So, I would go out to your bike, turn the handlebar all the way to one side and then the other and get a visual on the cable slack for the original set-up. My guess is that you're going to find very little extra cable length. In may be possible to reroute the cables to install the pullback riser of your choice so that new cables don't have to be installed, but proceed with caution. You may find yourself with lots of extra cable length then and you'll want to make sure to tie those back down so they are not flapping in the breeze! You might also not like the look. Take another look at that stock photo and visualize taking that brake cable, which is looping through the front fork and then back to the brake. The next step is to call your local HD dealer and inquire about longer cables. If the answer is no, and there is almost no slack when you turned the handlebar to one side, then I'd get the seat. If the answer is yes, then I'd get a cost estimate for parts and parts/labor. That will allow you to chart a price comparison on the various options you're considering. One final note: in looking at the Motorcycles for Short Riders list, I see that modifications included going to a Reach or Brawler seat, a note that a change to a HD Heritage handlebar may be possible (instead of pullback riser), but one person added a 2" pullback and did not note a need for new cables. Mama
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