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Article on how to measure for a new handlebar from JP Cycle Tech Talk
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200 8Tuesday, March 4 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Hopeless in Vegas, Tuesday, March 4 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Judy, I would start with your clutch lever. Is it possible that you are not pulling in the clutch lever fully when you shift? The older Sportys had a harder pull action, which can make problems for people with smaller or less strong hands. Go to the bike (it doesn't need to be running) and both of you pull in that clutch and see what's what.. If that's the case, then look into an EZ Clutch, which will reduce the pull action by half ... it's truly amazing! If that's not it, then I would turn my attention to your foot under the shift lever. Sometimes what happens is a lazy shift, and it's most often caused when our foot/boot isn't positioned correctly. Sit on the bike and take a closer look. Is your foot positioned right underneath the lever? Are you shifting from the side of your foot or reaching your toes too far upward to do the shift? Or perhaps your foot is jammed in tight underneath the shift lever. Often times one can loosen the shift lever and reposition it so the foot/boot fits comfortably under it and the lazy shift is solved. So, look at those two things and see if the solution isn't there. – Mama Wednesday, March 5 Dear VTwin Mama, Question, I am considering adding pull back risers to my bike to both raise the handle bar position some and to move the bar back closer to me, as I am still in a slightly forward leaning position. How much of a pull back riser can I add and still utilize the stock throttle, brake, and clutch cables? None, 2 inches, 4.5 inches or what? The stock seat fits pretty good but will probably change it out for a LePera Bare Bones, or a reach seat. I believe that either would also lower the seat, correct? – Dick D. Dear Dick, If you start with the seat, you may not need to add a pullback riser; likewise, if you add the pullback riser, you may not need to get a new seat! So, first I looked at seats: I called up three separate Internet files so I could toggle back and forth to get a visual fix: stock photo, Le Pera Bare Bones (you'll have to call up the specific page), HD Reach. While the Le Pera BB is lower and narrower (designed to bring you down in seat height), that Reach seat looks more padded and will move you forward (they say 1/2", but that can be significant to your needs). Since your feet are already firmly on the ground, I'd be more inclined to consider the Reach seat. In looking at that same 2006 stock bike picture, I can see some cable slack, but those pictures are taken with the front wheel straightened out. So, I would go out to your bike, turn the handlebar all the way to one side and then the other and get a visual on the cable slack for the original set-up. My guess is that you're going to find very little extra cable length. In may be possible to reroute the cables to install the pullback riser of your choice so that new cables don't have to be installed, but proceed with caution. You may find yourself with lots of extra cable length then and you'll want to make sure to tie those back down so they are not flapping in the breeze! You might also not like the look. Take another look at that stock photo and visualize taking that brake cable, which is looping through the front fork and then back to the brake. The next step is to call your local HD dealer and inquire about longer cables. If the answer is no, and there is almost no slack when you turned the handlebar to one side, then I'd get the seat. If the answer is yes, then I'd get a cost estimate for parts and parts/labor. That will allow you to chart a price comparison on the various options you're considering. One final note: in looking at the Motorcycles for Short Riders list, I see that modifications included going to a Reach or Brawler seat, a note that a change to a HD Heritage handlebar may be possible (instead of pullback riser), but one person added a 2" pullback and did not note a need for new cables. – Mama Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Jan, So, if you have no issue with the width of the handlebar, you'll want to check for a pullback riser, a small insert that will bring the whole assembly just that small bit back to you (they do come in different measurements, but be careful, because too much pullback and you might need longer cables). If you're finding that the whole thing is too wide and too far away, then I'd look for a new handlebar. Here is an article on the handlebar measurement subject that will help you measure the current set-up and determine what you would actually want. What's your true heart's desire? Sit on the bike, off the side stand, and lift your arms into what you think is the perfect comfort position. Now you can see what the difference in width and distance is and move forward with your research. The local dealer can help noodle out new pieces to make that happen! – Mama From Jan on her Dyna Low Rider and the question about grips: What I meant to explain was that the handlebar location and grips are fine, but what I am specifically looking for are clutch and brake levers that are closer to the grips. I have small hands and when I reach for the brake lever and I have to kind of roll my hands off the throttle to grip, or cover the front brake lever. I have heard that there may some levers manufactured that angle back closer to the grips for smaller hands. Sorry for the prior confusion! – Jan (note from Mama: my oopsie on interpreting the original letter! There is no easy answer as most products I can easily point to are about making the clutch pull-in action easier, but doesn't necessarily actually reduce the gap between the lever and the grip. In the past, the best advice I could give was to trace the current set-up and go to the dealer's parts department and have them open up the many aftermarket catalogs they have for something that will work. Yes, they are out there, but I can't point to a summary page as such. You may wish to consider getting on a message board specific to your make/model bike. On this Bike Fix page, I've got some of those listed! There you may find specific products or could ask the question about specific recommendations. ) Wednesday, March 19 For Jan on her Dyna Low Rider and the question about grips: Check out Amp Research for a reduced pull lever system. Also, on eBay I found a company that sells what they call close reach levers that come in closer to the bars - Sorry, I can't remember the name of the company, as I bought them a couple years ago. – Ratzuki (note from Mama: I'll add that ASV Inventions might be a solution ... we've noted them before, but it's not a look everyone will like, and you'll have to call about your specific make/model. I couldn't find what was referenced on eBay, so this is a continuing discussion!) Friday, March 21 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Bruce, Wednesday, April 2 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Kathy, Yikes! While we often refer to a motorcycles as having forward controls, it's really a cruiser style forward leg position with a stock footpeg/lever set. That's not the same thing as the definition of forward control aftermarket products. This isn't boding well for your needs. Further research confirms what I suspected ... aftermarket companies typically offer products that move forward leg positions even further out, for those who need more leg room. So, I went one step further and called J&P Cycles to talk to one of their technicians. He noted that in most cases but not always, the distance between the footpeg and lever doesn't change, but the mounting bracket portion is in fact longer. Hence, this is a no-go idea for your 28" inseam. So, I have only one more idea and that is to find a shop that re-chromes metal. You could bring the bike to them (hopefully you can find this type of company, perhaps an independent bike shop can get you the leads you would need), have them look at the non-chrome parts and see if they can grind/polish that down and chrome it up! – Mama Monday, April 14 Greetings from Scotland VTwin Mama! I took the plunge last year and did my CBT training here in the UK and started off on a cheap 125cc cruiser. Once I have my confidence on the 125cc I plan to do my full bike test and upsize =) My question to you is this, how do I adjust the clutch? The clutch on the Yamaha 125cc bike I sat my CBT test on seemed a lot easier to use, the 'biting' or 'friction' point was easy to find. However on my own bike, I feel like I'm letting the clutch almost fully out before the biting point is felt. This has caused me to pop the clutch and stall many a time at junctions, and to be honest, it's starting to shred my nerves! I've become so 'stall phobic' it sometimes deters me from riding! Unfortunately I don't know any mechanics or fellow bikers to answer my question. Any advice you can give me would be very much appreciated. Kind regards, – Lesley Dear Lesley, If they say yes, then look at where the clutch cable goes into the clutch lever. There should be a knurled knob that locks the adjustment into place. Undo that, turn the cable maybe a 1/4 or 1/2 turn, and tighten the knob. Fire up the bike and pop it into first gear. Carefully check where your engagement point is now. Not all bike's friction zone action can be adjusted this way, but some can! – Mama Wednesday, April 23 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Bob, Otherwise, it's time to pour over aftermarket catalogs and look for new levers that have a deep curve in the design so that the finger reach is not as much. You may need to go to the local dealer's part department with a picture of your current controls so you can compare. I think you might want to read this page on the National Association for Bikers with a Disability (NABD) site. While located in the UK, they offer succinct advice and possible adaptations to ponder over. – Mama Friday, April 25 Mama, This friend was bitten by the bug to start riding again after 30 yrs. While looking at bikes, she sat on a Suzuki M50 that she could almost flat-foot (dealer will lower another 1" no problem), she was ecstatic as she is height challenged as many of us are! She stated, "It felt so good!!" So she bought it, is having it custom painted her favorite color. Happy ending right? Wrong... She can barely reach the pegs of the forward controls. She had not even thought of that -- thinking more along the lines of reaching the ground and balance. The dealer says that they are not able to change the foot controls from forward to mid or even move them back an inch or two. I have searched online and have not found anything yet so I asking if you or anyone out there could give us a lead on where to start. Thanks again for all the caring advice from you and your readers, – LowRiderLady Dear LowRiderLady, So, first I looked on the Suzuki M50 accessories page and found floorboards. This goes right were the pegs would be, but can you see that the floorboard extends further back, so at least she would have solid foot rest. I would have the dealer haul out a pair and hold them up so she can see if that's going to do the trick. If not, or she wants a different solution, there is what is called a footpeg mount offset or an adjustable lockable offset. These are Kuryakyn products made for passenger peg relocation comfort, but I'm thinking, hey, why not the rider set? Hard to say ... again, bring it up with the dealer and let them explain why not (as I'm not aware of what the setup/limitation/safety issue might be, if any). None of this will solve your friend's reach to the actual shift lever and brake lever though and there I am stuck as I assume that will be an issue as well. But, as they are simply levers, perhaps another Yami model has a shorter lever version that could be used. Think the cruisers first, but don't hesitate to look at the sport bikes. Not as fancy, but they tend to be placed nearer the footpeg, so might work. Maybe. While I don't hold the dealer responsible for this fitment issue (but honestly, were they that obtuse not to check everything?!), I'm puzzled why they appear to be sticking their head in the sand with this challenge facing a new client. Doesn't $7k buy anything more these days?! If none of this works, then I would find the nearest independent motorcycle shop and make friends with them. Not sure what solution they might be able to craft, but these types of shops usually have seen just about everything, so I would appeal to their sense of the challenge! Readers, I know we've fielded this type of question before, and I don't think that I've missed some sort of backwards relocation kit, but clue me in if needed. – Mama Monday, June 9 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Diane, What we often refer to as forward controls are really a standard set of controls positioned forward. I bring this up so you don't spin your wheels (ha!) wondering if a new set will help ... aftermarket forward controls are designed to bolt into the same position but move the foot position even more forward. In this understanding, I know of no new set-up that bolts into the same place but brings things back. The question then is, can you sit on your bike (off the side stand) and feel the best position of your back and legs that minimizes the sciatica? If this is the case, then you'll have some clues to work with. I'd start with your foot position. It may be to your advantage to switch to floorboards that so that your feet can rest fully and shift a bit instead of being forced to a footpeg only position. While I don't see it on Honda's official accessories list, visit the dealer, sit on a bike with floorboards and check it out. Then you can talk to the parts department about options. Even a mini ISO wing from Kuryakyn might do the trick. While a floorboard might help, your overall seating position may have you a bit folded up at the hip, thus setting up a problem. To gauge the need for a change at the handlebar, I like this technique ... have someone straddle the front wheel and hold onto the handlebar with you sitting on the bike off the side stand. Move the leg that causes the most pain into foot position. Now, close your eyes and lift your arms into a position that continues to feel right overall. Open your eyes and check where your hands are floating in the air. If it's just a matter of bringing the handlebar a bit back, then yes, a pullback riser will accomplish the task. If you find that the handlebar ends are actually a bit wide for you, then you'll need to explore new handlebar options. In some cases a seat may also shift your position. Here I am referring to something like the Corbin Young Guns model. When I look at your stock seat and this Corbin seat, I see a significant build up in the back section of the Corbin seat, which may offer more overall back support and naturally shift your whole back straighter up. Your dealer (or you) may be able to order something like this in so you can take a closer look without having to commit to a purchase. One could also consider working with a custom seat shop (like Allen at Mean City Cycles) to build up your stock seat ... why not call and talk it out (his ad and phone number are in the left column). I'm hoping that more research of these modification techniques on your part will reveal the single or combo change that keeps that Spirit (and yours!) the dream machine it can be. – Mama Wednesday, June 11 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Peter, I looked at the brake hose going into the front master cylinder, but don't see an adjustment there. In all of this, don't forget that calling a dealer's service department for quick clues is possible! – Mama Saturday, July 5 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Sharon, It could be that you're arms are riding high. Sit on the bike (in first gear so it doesn't roll, not running, off the side stand and centered) and raise your arms to a relaxed and comfortable position (without regard to where the hand controls are right now). You may find that by simply unclamping the whole handlebar and rotating it a bit down, will solve the problem. On the other hand, the height angle may be find but the actual clutch and brake assemblies are rotated on the handlebar, making you arch your wrist to get to the pull action. In this case you can loosen each control and rotate it for a straight wrist position. If you see that you need to reach a bit forward to get your hands on the controls, then a simple and inexpensive pull back riser will bring the entire handlebar assembly closer to your body. If your hands are spread too wide for comfort, then you'll need a new handlebar shape. So, in all of this, you're trying to identify what is either limiting the blood circulation to your hands, straining your back/shoulders/arms/hands so that fatigue sets in, or if something else is going on (i.e. the seat is forcing your back to round or pinching the nerves in your thighs). My guess is that a simple review of the handlebar set-up will relieve your numbness. – Mama Monday, July 7 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Cheryl, Thursday, July 31 Dear VTwin Mama, I have looked at the possibility of adding a pull back riser. I know that will mean changing cables also, but I am about ready to go there. I have looked at different risers in catalogs. How do I determine the size of the riser? I have seen some that are 2 1/2" and some that are 5". The guys at the dealership aren't much help. Has anyone made this change on this type of bike? – Carolyn in Texas Dear Carolyn, Some changes are slight enough that don't require new cables, but if you check the slack if the cable now, you should be able to determine what's going to happen their. In your case, you've already ascertained that longer cables are available (yahoo!). – Mama Friday, August 1 Dear Readers, My boyfriend Marty, a Suzuki Boulevard C90T rider, is a fan of Mocc's Place ... where the garage and mod shop sections offer easy-to-understand instructions for all sorts of things on Intruders and Boulevards. Marty noted there was a lever adjustment mod ... so if you've already adjusted the levers in as much as possible, this is a method to reduce the distance just a touch more. Is it possible that other makes/models use a similar system ... take a look ... one never knows! – MamaHi VTwin Mama, Dear Andrea, I'm guessing that "slippy" translates to not having full control of the front end, especially in the slower turns, tighter turns, and even a tight turn done with a duckwalk. It's getting away from you because your body can't maintain center of gravity over the center of the bike (even a small hip or butt shift makes a difference). So if you "slip" your COG, then the front end gets "slippy." If that's the case, then yes, a pullback riser will make all the difference. In looking at the top view I see that you should be able to easily undo the handlebar clamp, add the riser, and reinstall the bar. How much pullback? Sitting on that bike with the wheel centered and off the side stand, lift your arms into a comfortable position without regard to where the hand controls are now (closing one's eyes can help here!). If it's just a matter of bringing the whole assembly a bit closer to you, then that's a pull riser. If you also see you would like the handlebar ends not spread out quite as far, then that can be both a new handlebar and pull back riser (depending on the new handlebar chosen). Only note: on a bigger pullback or handlebar change is about how much extra cable you've got to make the stretch (but longer cables are typically available). So, unfortunately, you're talking about more money to get the right fit, but by your letter I feel you are determined to make this H-D yours! Then I looked at the Icon Bombshell boots ... I can see you've got a waffle pattern under the main foot, but what about the heel part? If that's just a standard heel piece, check with the local shoe repair shop and see if they can't nail in a waffle cut for more traction. – Mama Hi Ya VTwin Mama, My first ride was postponed due to Tropical Storm Fay, but finally got to ride the beastie boy yesterday and rode and rode. OOPS, 50 miles on it already. LOL ... I knew the minute we pulled the drive that the clutch and brake reaches were a BIG problem, but dealt and managed fine. BUT, second short ride on Sunday and I was ALL "off" becuz of it. To the point that, at a stop, becuz I barely had a grip on clutch, but could not let it out at stop, in gear, pulled tight to keep hold and nearly pulled bike over!!! But saved it/me ... WHEW!!!!!! As soon as we got home, hubby went diggin around to see about any adjustment on this grip/lever capable in meantime. He did reduce the play on the Ninja for me and is suggesting doing that with the Monster although it may only give a lil bit, but I will take anything right now. We ordered new Pazzo Shorties. What do you know/think/suggest etc. while waiting for Pazzos???? THANK YOU AGAIN for all you do. You are AWESOME!!! – Janet W. in Apopka, FL Dear Janet, Now, let's say that Pazzo didn't have a solution ... then I'd be looking for a narrower form elsewhere or bringing that to an independent shop to see if they could heat and bend the levers inward without compromising the strength. I doubt you want to go that route when the replacements are most likely due in pretty soon and without the service manual, I can't guess on other options. The cable adjustment can move the engage/disengage point of the clutch on some bikes but it's main purpose is that the bike doesn't creep forward when you've got the clutch pulled in (too much freeplay) or no freeplay and then can't account for the systems normal heating up and premature clutch wear. So careful there! – Mama Tuesday, August 26 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear StarRider, Even if you change out the handlebar itself, with a longer and/or narrower sweep from the center clamp towards your body, you still have to account for those cables. Since you like your seat, perhaps it's possible to build it up a bit in back to push you forward somewhat. There are a lot of seat modification companies out there, but I'll mention Allen at Mean City Cycles (an advertiser on this site) ... gals have noted he's great about talking things out with them and delivering a quality finished job. Rule this idea in or out by talking with him! I won't go into alternative seat ideas from aftermarket companies at this point ... let's see how the seat mod idea goes first! – Mama Sunday, August 31 Follow-up from Janet on the installation of Pazzo grips: Got Pazzos and WOW, like night and day ... SOOOOO much better. I had ordered black ones (shorties) with red adjusters. Hubby had asked for, and we bought as gift his Pazzos in gold with blue adjusters for his Speed Triple, but has been disappointed in his choice of colors. So I suckered up and let him swap my black ones for his gold ... but kept my red adjusters, he kept his blue and both bikes are SO much better now. Rode ALL over yesterday, luv running errands on bike (hubby hates it, I really enjoy it) and I seem to really grow with my bike thru this. Anyhoo ....have 105 miles in 4 rides already! – Janet (note from Mama: ok, love that the Pazzo's are making a difference in your hand grip distance between the grip and the lever ... this is really good to know!) Sunday, August 31 Dear VTwin Mama, The real problem was with changing gears and controlling the throttle and front brake. I felt that the controls were spaced too far apart (my hands and feet are very small). It was very difficult for me to change gears because my feet were not long enough and it was very difficult for me to control the throttle and front brake since it took me too long to move from one to the other because they were spaced too far apart for the size of my hand. Anyways, just wondering if anyone had any good advice. I am 4'11" and about 115 pounds and looking for a bike that is short, very light, and compact. Also wondering if there is anyway that I can get the controls on the bike adjusted. Thanks. – Nicole Dear Nicole, Although you couldn't complete the course, you did in fact learn quite a lot about hand and foot controls, which will help you do some shopping! I would start with my Motorcycle Engine CC chart, where you'll see that there are at least ten makes/models in the 250cc range ... cruisers, sport, and standard styles. With this list in hand, head to the local dealers and take a look for yourself. It doesn't matter if you would buy new or not ... right now you're looking for fit. Sit on bikes, compare to your course experience on the Rebel, and make notes. Ask the salesperson about modifications for your needs. I won't blow air up your riding pants (!) ... controls for petite size hands is an ongoing challenge that is not addressed well. Most are about the force of the pull more so than the distance of the lever to the grip. I'm hearing that more sport-style bikes are offering aftermarket options than cruisers. A recent letter with links is useful to read and review. However, sport-style bikes have the highest seat heights in the 250cc range (and in general), so that challenge would be added. The point is that if you're armed with some possible aftermarket info, you can have a more useful conversation with a salesperson. So off you go to look more in to it. Read top tips for leg reach to ground fit as you'll need that information also. But then, how to learn on your own bike! I would ask the course if you could bring in your bike for the beginner's course, given your size realities. If this is not possible, then pursue the possibility that course instructors sometimes offer private lessons. More $$ but then the goal is the goal ... and sometimes we have to spend a bit more than planned to get to the dream. Can you teach yourself ... yes ... I did ... but it's not the most supportive route. I'd look into the Ride Like a Pro DVDs for a wonderful visual method of working step-by-step. And don't forget, even if you don't have friends/family that ride, just having a friend on hand when you practice will boost your confidence during the beginning stages! – Mama Monday, September 1 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Rita, Unfortunately, the electrical diagram is very fuzzy, even when printed out, so is very difficult to use. If you look at the bottom of the diagram, the third item from the left is the horn switch and the 7th item in from the left is the horn. Tracing the wire from the horn, it goes to a connector and then leads to the horn switch. This is from what I can tell, not a fused circuit. So, you need to start at the physical horn. Check that the two wires are firmly connected or if there is corrosion. Follow the wires to the connector if possible ... you'll want to check that the wires haven't separated or are loose at the connector. Then you'll follow from the connector to the switch (you will probably have to remove a few screws to undo a cover to see the inner stuff of the horn switch) and check the wire connections and condition there. Along the way you should also be looking at the actual wire for any burns or breaks that expose the inner wire to a frame part it could ground out on. This is not completely unknown ... anything on the front end that moves when we turn the handlebar can rub wires. If you find the problem doing this ... great! If you still can't locate the trouble, now the problem could be with the switch or the horn itself has failed. That takes a bit more knowledge to troubleshoot. Since this is a simple circuit, I'm guessing that a visit to an independent bike shop will quickly reveal the failed part for very little expense. – Mama Monday, September 29 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Candy Mama, Wednesday, December 24 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Redbirdie, All previous information on the subject can be found on my Bike Fix: Hand/Foot Controls pages. Unfortunately, a lot of it is about easier pull clutch levers and some links to more adjustable levers for sport bikes as well as a few select metric cruisers. You'll see notations on bringing the bike to an independent shop to see if they'll heat up the levers and bend them so the finger reach isn't as wide. Sorry, there just isn't an easy answer that is satisfactory. – Mama Wednesday, December 31 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Mark,
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