|
|
|
|
|
|
|
SPECIAL DEALS Current Deals and Coupon Discounts at Online Shops!
Article on how to measure for a new handlebar from JP Cycle Tech Talk
|
200 9Thursday, January 15 Dear VTwin Mama, I'm in the process of rebuilding and I was wondering if someone could recommend some handle bars and grips/levers that would give me better control. Something that would allow me to brake without accidentally giving it gas (not that I did that or anything LOL!) I'm 5'0" with freakishly small hands. I have Alpinestars XS women's gloves and they are a 1/2" too long. I wear a 6yo size in kids motocross gloves. Please help! I can stand flat foot with my bike but the brake and clutch is such a stretch plus the stock handle bars give me a little stretch and I have to hold my shoulders up. Please help! I love my bike! – Erica Dear Erica, It isn't always necessary to completely change out a handlebar. If the spread (distance from hand to hand) is ok, then it's just a matter of 1) loosening the handlebar clamp and rotating the assembly down a bit so your arms aren't lifted in a weird shoulder hunch and/or 2) bringing that whole assembly closer to you. That's done with a pullback riser ... a simple insert between the frame and the handlebar ... easy on the pocketbook and to install. Just decide how much closer you could like the whole handlebar and then visit your local dealer's parts department. Small hands continue to vex us as there are few solutions. First though, accidentally "activating" the throttle while trying to use the front brake is often times a matter of the positioning of the brake on the handlebar. Did you know it can be loosened up and repositioned?! If you sit on your bike, with it running and in neutral, you can practice squeezing your brake and seeing how your hand is hitting the throttle at the same time. Then loosen and rotate that brake to a better position. I think the only solution we have for your bike in regard to the distance your fingers have to reach to activate the clutch or brake lever is to take it to an independent shop and see if they will heat and bend the levers so that the gap isn't as large. We're wishing you the best on your upcoming course! – Mama Friday, April 17 Hi VTwin Mama, Dear Short Harley Mama, I headed right to JP Cycles because they are a well-known aftermarket company for Harleys. Check this page and compare it to your current kickstand. I don't see that little extension piece at the end to help you hook your boot for getting it down, but I know I've seen those as well (to add). I'm betting the folks at JP can get you the right set-up! – Mama Wednesday, May 27 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Joanne, Take a close look where the cable enters into the clutch lever assembly. You should see a knurled knob adjuster ... it's about the size of a quarter, a little fatter, with ridges all around the side. Because clutch cables stretch over time, one can loosen this knob and make an adjustment. But let's do some checking first. So, pull your lever ever so slightly and see that there is about a 1/4" movement before you really have to pull the clutch lever with any force. This is freeplay. When the cable stretches, there is more freeplay and eventually it will be difficult to disengage your gears (clashing noise or it creeps forward even when the clutch is held in). So, in essence, we can move the engage/disengage point of the clutch lever action. Take hold of that cable and loosen the nut. Turn the cable (not more than 1/4 turn), tighten the nut, fire up the bike, and see where your engage/disengage point is now. Remember, too much freeplay and the bike will creep forward with the clutch pulled in ... no freeplay and the bike will have a prematurely worn out clutch. This is a very fine line. Now that you have a beginning understanding, recall that you can always call your local dealer's service department ... since it's such a small thing, they may be willing to adjust it for you or give you a heads up on something I'm not taking into account. – Mama Tuesday, June 2 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Staci,
So, in essence, an ape hanger is simply one with more overall rise! My thought is this .... sit on your bike, off the side stand and centered. Have a family member or friend help with the next step. Raise your arms into a higher position that you feel is comfortable (i.e. not causing too much of a stretch and not causing your shoulder blades to tense. Have that helper take a piece of string or rope and run it from where the current handlebar clamps in up to your new hand position. Then measure the string/rope. That's approximately the handlebar's rise. In your string measurement you'll want to subtract an inch or so because your hands are at the lower end of the overall bar, not at the top of the rise. Remember that the width is just important ... you don't want to have to spread your arms out to far, so again, have your helper measure the max distance you want your hands apart. Now you are ready to shop. Perhaps your local dealer has an ape hanger or two in inventory and you can bring your bike and just have them hold it in place to see. But I think if you really pay strict attention to the measuring system, you'll be able to order with confidence. – Mama Monday, June 29 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear dkamp Tuesday, June 30 Dear VTwin Mama, I am looking for solutions since I really do not want to give up this bike, it's style and performance, weight, etc. really suit my style. I think the problem though, is that since this bike has a traditionally upright seated riding position, I lean forward, so my butt and wrists get sore and stressed very quickly. I have realized that I probably need to have a bar back/riser added to get me moved back on the handlebars and in turn seated back into the comfortable part of the saddle as well. I am looking for stories and advice from other gals who maybe have had to modify their rides to get comfortable enough to be able to ride long distances, and even cross country, which is my ultimate goal. – Sheila F. in Francestown, NH Dear Sheila, If your hands are simply a bit lower than the current set-up then loosening the handlebar clamp and rotating downward a bit might be something to consider. It's really amazing how this small change can make a difference! If the handlebar itself is in good position, take a moment to review the actual clutch and brake assemblies. We can get tight in the wrists, and more notably in the shoulder blades and thus through the back and butt, if the wrist is cocked up or bent down even slightly in normal position. It just strains everything. Otherwise, a pullback riser will make the difference and is one of the least expensive and typically easiest modifications to make. When I rode a '86 BMW K75 I found that the foot controls below my hips were tough because there is no natural place to extend one's legs for another position on longer hauls. I use to lean forward and rest my feet on the passenger pegs (not a recommended riding position for sure!). Too bad they replaced the boxer engine; my R1200C has an engine guard that also allows for a leg rest. But so be it ... that F800 has a parallel twin and no chance for a forward placed engine guard or highway bar (that I know of). I'd also take another look at that seat. Not much padding. It might be possible to open the seat cover, scoop out whatever is in there, and replace it with a gel insert for more tushy comfort. Just a thought! – Mama Thursday, July 16 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Sara, One other thing to do is to check your current cables and estimate how much "extra" length might be available to cover that slightly extra distance (or if you're at the dealer's, look at a floor model with the parts person). Usually a matter of a few inches of pullback isn't going to require new cables, but now you know what to look for and ask about. – Mama Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Louise, Heel/toe shifters are packaged with a floorboard instead of the standard foot peg. Here is a picture and price. I also found this page showing the foot peg left in place but a heel shifter added. Although I'm not seeing any solutions for the rear brake pedal, by changing to a floorboard at least your foot would have more room to rest correctly. With this information you'll be able to have a decent conversation with your local dealer's parts and service departments. Readers with VLX 600s ... any other thoughts? – Mama Thursday, August 27 I too am only 4'11" tall, with a 25.5" inseam. I'm riding my Honda 600 VLX stock. My River Road double zipper field boots help me flat foot with no difficulty. But, in order to reach the foot controls, I had to scoot forward in the saddle. Every time I would start, I would slide back in the saddle. Starting on a hill was the worst. I was thinking of modifying my saddle, but I found a much more inexpensive solution. I ordered a lumbar roll off the internet and strapped it to my saddle. It helps keep me forward in the saddle so I can reach the controls with no problem. It also provides support to my back so I don't slump. It's been great. – Rachel (note from Mama: I love this versatile idea!)
Thursday, October 8 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Joan, Tuesday, October 13 G'day VTwin Mama, Dear Brien, The question you are asking is out of my league of knowledge, but that never stopped me from trying to learn as much as possible to see if I can noodle it out! Some basics first: "Motorcycle brake lines work in much the same way as car brake lines. They deliver brake fluid under pressure from the master cylinder to the brakes. When you apply the brakes in your car, brake balance is handled by a brake proportioning valve. This valve determines how much hydraulic pressure each axle requires to slow or stop the vehicle safely. On a motorcycle, the rider controls this manually by using a front and a rear brake control." Motorcycle ABS basics: "An Anti-Lock Braking System incorporates computerized sensors to determine when a wheel is on the verge of locking-up. It then gives instant instructions to the brakes to release and re-apply braking pressure (pumping) a whole bunch of times per second, while you are steadily engaging the brakes." If I recall correctly, some bikes have independent ABS on each wheel while others tie the ABS together for both wheels. Now I can make a bit more sense of the SE5 reviews I'm reading. Each of the three wheels is monitored individually for motion stability and ABS braking. To me this suggests that there is already a brake proportioning system in place because the activation of the one brake pedal at the foot looks at three sets of tire rotation information to determine correct braking balance. To verify my best guesses, I talked with Dave at Wilmington Power Sports in Wilmington, NC ... a Can-Am dealer. What a helpful person. He confirmed that yes, a master cylinder, proportioning valves, and electronic sensors are functionally tied together in a "brain." Then he gave me great news ... there is a Can Am-approved kit (made by Industrial Specialty Company) to move the braking from the foot to the right hand! So any Can Am dealer should be able to do the modification. $1250 US for the kit and Dave estimated a few hours of installation cost, but he hasn't done one yet, so that's not firm. It adds another master and slave unit and leaves the original stuff in place. Sounds good to me! – Mama |
| © 2009 VTwin Mama | Disclaimer |
