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Reflection
Photo Gallery and Motorcycle Reviews
Weekly Sales Item
Motorcycle Fit Charts
Tuesday, August 26 Christmas Charities Benefit, October 11, Calera, AL Dear VTwin Mama, Tuesday, August 26 Dear VTwin Mama, I did find a website appropriately labeled the Short Biker List. I am in the category #1 and #2. Other than those do you have any suggestions? I live in Vancouver B.C. btw. My price range is not too large, but I appreciate your thoughts! Kara Dear Kara, While the ACE is no longer in the Honda line-up, we do know it's a 745cc engine with a seat height of 27.6" and at 505 lbs. So now the question becomes this: exactly how is the bike too big? If it's just about the seat height because you can't flat foot while seated, then the bike can be lowered (shorter shock, lowering kit, seat shave). It won't alter your boyfriend's experience by much as only the leg reach to ground is changed. If it's about the weight, then if you look at my Motorcycle Engine CC chart you'll see that most bikes in the 750cc range are about the same weight, with a notable exception of the Suzuki Boulevard S40 (700cc, $4400, 353 lbs, but a 27.6" seat height so you'll need it lowered). The same chart of course is organized by ascending cc engine size, so you'll be able to look at smaller cc bikes and the other variables. If you wish to look at motorcycles organized by seat height then head to my Motorcycle Seat Height chart. And then there is your budget. If you're shopping for used motorcycles, now you know you can look up a make/model and check out the seat height/weight before hand to see if it's a candidate and use the Kelley Blue Book for motorcycles to check on value. And you can check with dealers who are clearing 2008 inventory to make way for 2009 models, keeping the modification methods in mind for a useful dialog on fit. Specific models? Look at the Honda Shadow VLX, Spirit and Aero, Yamaha VStar 650, and that Suzuki Boulevard S40 to get started if the mid-range is where your interest lies. Mama Tuesday, August 26 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear StarRider, Even if you change out the handlebar itself, with a longer and/or narrower sweep from the center clamp towards your body, you still have to account for those cables. Since you like your seat, perhaps it's possible to build it up a bit in back to push you forward somewhat. There are a lot of seat modification companies out there, but I'll mention Allen at Mean City Cycles (an advertiser on this site) ... gals have noted he's great about talking things out with them and delivering a quality finished job. Rule this idea in or out by talking with him! I won't go into alternative seat ideas from aftermarket companies at this point ... let's see how the seat mod idea goes first! Mama Tuesday, August 26 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Renee, Your best friend (in the book version) is a full service manual. You'll be looking for the aftermarket version (about $30) either by Clymer or Haynes. Tips, tricks, tools, schedules, troubleshooting, and point by point instruction (with pictures!) lay between the covers. How many times can a rider prevent or solve a problem on the road because of learning the basics ... it only takes once to convince a rider that knowing your bike boosts confidence and can save a call to a tow truck! Right now I'll stick with the chain. You'll need to lube your chain on occasion. That's just a can of lube spray (you fit a little straw into the nozzle) and squirt the chain. Then you move the bike forward so you can get the other half. Chains stretch over time, so proper tension must be maintained. It's easy to check. Just put a finger under a part of the chain and push up. It should have a little give but not a lot. The manual will call out the specific slack range. If it's time for the chain to be tightened, then you're got a chain tensioner on each side. The nuts must be loosened and then each tensioner turned equally and the nuts retightened. Sometimes the procedure will call for a loosening the main axle nut but that's just a big nut (needs a special socket) and you'll probably need a torque wrench to tighten it the proper amount. At some point the chain can no longer be brought into proper tension. Time for a new chain! Undo the master link, attach the new chain, and pull the new chain through. Good point ... always keep a master link with you while riding. Should something happen with the chain, it sometimes can be put together (to get home) with a master link! You'll also be keeping your eye out on the wear of the sprocket teeth. The sprockets are what the chain revolve around. See the teeth? Ok, if you look at a new bike you'll see how pointy they are ... after many tens of thousands of miles those teeth will wear down ... then it's time for new sprockets! If you get the service manual, you'll be able to go to an auto store (or someplace like Sears) and ask a salesperson to help you to find a basic socket set with spark plug socket, open/closed wrench set, and a few screwdrivers (Phillips head and straight slot ... this is so you can remove the cover to the air filter) to get started! I have a small table and a pegboard in my garage to hold my tools and oil and sundries. It's a very cool feeling knowing I can do the basics! Examples of how this hurt and helped. I was a bad VTM for not checking the water level in the cells of my battery and one time my bike quit on me when I was 80 miles from home on a July 4th. Turns out one of the cells went dry. Thank goodness a rider stopped to help 'cause once a cell goes dry, it's 99% unlikely you'll be able to fill it and it will hold a charge. Another time I was riding and the bike just quit. I knew how to look at the battery and the connections (all was well) and the fuses under my seat (all good). And that's when I saw it ... a connector between two wires had somehow pulled loose. I reconnected and was on my way! Another time my bike started bucking up in the mountains. I pulled a spark plug, saw that if was cruded up (my fault for not checking more often), used an emery board to clean it off (temporarily) and then checked the other one. Good to know where these are. I was on my way! Live and learn ... if you don't do maintenance checks at home, it'll bite you on the road! Mama Tuesday, August 26 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Cleg, Yes, it will boost power, most readily noticed at the higher speeds where previously you might have felt you were winding the bike out. Biggest names in the business: Kuryakyn and K&N. Mama Monday, August 25 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Meg, As for finding groups, I'd check my Women's Sites page for national level organizations and their local chapters and even independent clubs. Even if headquarters is not right in your neighborhood, remember that other members may be in your area and part of these groups! And I wouldn't rule out checking for an "all rider" organization such as the Southern Cruisers ... despite the name, they do operate in most states ... there aren't any chapters in VT but 4 in NH. Also, even if you do not ride a Harley-Davidson, check with the local H-D dealer for a HOG chapter and associated Ladies of Harley sub-chapter ... most often these gals will include non-H-D riders on some or all rides! When riding solo, another rider or group in front or behind you is considered a separate entity. You do not join their group nor should you pull up next to a rider at a stop (nor should another rider behind you). It is appropriate to acknowledge the other rider with a turn of the head nod or small wave, but you still treat yourself and that rider as separate vehicles. This is for both your protections as neither knows the other's riding capabilities. Mama Monday, August 25 From Shadow Rider who had a bit of jitters moving beyond the parking lot for a number of reasons: Thanks to you and all of your readers for all of your wonderful advice. Since writing to you I have been out on the road having fun. My Hubby was able to come home for a weekend from his job out of state and he followed me in the cage and I rode my bike into the next town which is about 14 miles away to get my bike inspected. Wow what a rush to get up to 50 mph. Whenever the jitters got to me I would just look in my mirror and there he was it made the trip a lot less stressful. I have been riding ever since, even over to my mother-in-laws solo and returning at dusk, a little scary, but still fun. Isnt it funny how you can be very scared and still be having fun? I appreciate you starting this site; I would have been so lost without it these past weeks. So now thanks to hubby and you wonderful ladies, I can travel down that big scary road to the large parking lot to practice my turns and to the gas station to get gas and hopefully make the 1 ½ hour trip to work before the end of the riding season. Thanks again so very much! ShadowRider55 (note from Mama: we are jazzed to hear that some enjoying words and advice from VTM readers as well as your hubby have moved you forward with more confidence ... sometimes those first hurdles are really high but with each successful practice or run, even a new hurdle doesn't block our view quite as easily! Good for you!) Monday, August 25 Hi VTwin Mama, Dear Andrea, I'm guessing that "slippy" translates to not having full control of the front end, especially in the slower turns, tighter turns, and even a tight turn done with a duckwalk. It's getting away from you because your body can't maintain center of gravity over the center of the bike (even a small hip or butt shift makes a difference). So if you "slip" your COG, then the front end gets "slippy." If that's the case, then yes, a pullback riser will make all the difference. In looking at the top view I see that you should be able to easily undo the handlebar clamp, add the riser, and reinstall the bar. How much pullback? Sitting on that bike with the wheel centered and off the side stand, lift your arms into a comfortable position without regard to where the hand controls are now (closing one's eyes can help here!). If it's just a matter of bringing the whole assembly a bit closer to you, then that's a pull riser. If you also see you would like the handlebar ends not spread out quite as far, then that can be both a new handlebar and pull back riser (depending on the new handlebar chosen). Only note: on a bigger pullback or handlebar change is about how much extra cable you've got to make the stretch (but longer cables are typically available). So, unfortunately, you're talking about more money to get the right fit, but by your letter I feel you are determined to make this H-D yours! Then I looked at the Icon Bombshell boots ... I can see you've got a waffle pattern under the main foot, but what about the heel part? If that's just a standard heel piece, check with the local shoe repair shop and see if they can't nail in a waffle cut for more traction. Mama Monday, August 25 More for Short Legged, wondering if another seat will lower the 1200L even more than the Sundowner: I am 5 feet tall MAYBE 5' 1". I ride a 2007 1200L Sportster. I have the Reach Seat. It helped. Then I put on Progressive shocks and they helped again. I have the Sportster mini apes and pull back risers. All of this has helped me to be flat footed in "normal" Harley Boots. The shocks and seat combo are a great duo! Tink (note from Mama: thanks for sharing the steps you took for good fit!) Monday, August 25 Hi Ya VTwin Mama, My first ride was postponed due to Tropical Storm Fay, but finally got to ride the beastie boy yesterday and rode and rode. OOPS, 50 miles on it already. LOL ... I knew the minute we pulled the drive that the clutch and brake reaches were a BIG problem, but dealt and managed fine. BUT, second short ride on Sunday and I was ALL "off" becuz of it. To the point that, at a stop, becuz I barely had a grip on clutch, but could not let it out at stop, in gear, pulled tight to keep hold and nearly pulled bike over!!! But saved it/me ... WHEW!!!!!! As soon as we got home, hubby went diggin around to see about any adjustment on this grip/lever capable in meantime. He did reduce the play on the Ninja for me and is suggesting doing that with the Monster although it may only give a lil bit, but I will take anything right now. We ordered new Pazzo Shorties. What do you know/think/suggest etc. while waiting for Pazzos???? THANK YOU AGAIN for all you do. You are AWESOME!!! Janet W. in Apopka, FL Dear Janet, Now, let's say that Pazzo didn't have a solution ... then I'd be looking for a narrower form elsewhere or bringing that to an independent shop to see if they could heat and bend the levers inward without compromising the strength. I doubt you want to go that route when the replacements are most likely due in pretty soon and without the service manual, I can't guess on other options. The cable adjustment can move the engage/disengage point of the clutch on some bikes but it's main purpose is that the bike doesn't creep forward when you've got the clutch pulled in (too much freeplay) or no freeplay and then can't account for the systems normal heating up and premature clutch wear. So careful there! Mama
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