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Bike Lower 2002

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Bike Lower 2005

Bike Lower 2006

Bike Lower 2007

 

Lower the bike or raise the boot sole height? (Adobe Acrobat PDF file)

 

J&P Cycles

 

JC Whitney  -  Tough parts for tough bikes.

 

Progressive Suspension
Enter your make, model and year and see if they have something. If they do, then use the Dealer Finder to see where you can get it!

Adjustment Tech Racing
Ninja lowering solutions were found here and there are a variety of solutions for Metric bikes

Skull Enterprises
A Colorado company that can shorten existing shocks as well as offering custom shocks . . . just ignore the women in bikinis (geez!)

 

 

 

Articles on lowering a bike:
Progressive Suspension Tech
Lower Your VStar 650 for Free with the "Julio Slam"! (this is an Adobe Acrobat PDF file)
Lower Your Sportster: An Interesting Alternative

2008

Tuesday, March 4

Hey VTwin Mama,
I'm about 5'3" and I just recently bought a 2007 Kawasaki 600R and I had it lowered to stage II at a dealership out of state. Once the bike arrived to my house I tried it and I couldn't put both feet on the ground (needs 2" or more). 

My dealership told me that they were using the "Pro Tek" lowering link and it has 3 stages. They couldn't max it out because of the fear of damaging the shock. Do you think it's the truth? If it is, why would they make 3 stages in the first place? I am confused and afraid to ride this bike because of not being able to have both feet on the ground comfortable, especially on the hills or if I had to back up. I don't want to trim my seat either. Are there any solutions to this? I really love this bike ; ( Thanks. – Vinnie

Dear Vinnie,
I just got off the phone with ProTek and they noted that within the product line for Kawis, if a specific bike model is not called out, a dealer can still use a product choice but not necessarily all hole stages. Yes, in fact, the lowest hole choice could cause the shock to come into contact with the swing arm and/or not operate correctly. So I don't think the dealer is steering you wrong.

In looking for other lowering links specific to your make/model, I was unable to find anything ... this is not uncommon for sport bikes ... just now more solutions are being offered, but it's hit and miss.

Since you don't want to modify the seat, then I would take another look at your boots. If you love your boots, you might want to try an internal lift insert inside the boot. If it's a well-made boot, meaning that the bottom was sewn (not glued) to the upper leather, than head to a shoe repair shop and they should be able to noodle out an extra added sole to the boots. Or, shop for new boots with a higher profile sole, remembering you might have to readjust your feel at the shift/brake controls.

I would think the dealership would have mentioned the possibility of a shorter shock and any availability, but you might want to revisit that question. If not, there are companies that offer custom shock shortening, but again, you've got the internal framework to consider, and it simply may be as low as possible for correct operation. A lower profile tire might help, but I'd really keep this as my last option and then proceed with extreme caution. – Mama

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Thursday, March 6

Dear VTwin Mama,
I am a 5'5" male and just inherited a 1973 Honda CB350 Four from my father. This bike has been in the family since birth and has a lot of sentimental value to me so I want to keep it and ride it for years to come. 

However, it was modified a long time ago and had the front forks replaced with longer forks to give it sort of a chopper look. I love the look of the bike and think it looks way better than stock. The problem for me is that since the forks were replaced, it happened to raise the bike substantially and I can barely tip-toe on the bike when at a stop. I would love to be able to lower the bike an inch or two to aid when coming to a stop but I am having trouble finding any way to lower my ride without putting stock forks back on the bike which could be costly and take away from the look. I have already raised the front forks as far up the triple tree as they can go too. 

I think the best bet is to lower the rear but cannot find any lowering kits for my model. I have also tried to find some sort of universal rear shocks that are shorter than stock but again cannot find any that are compatible with my bike (the rear shocks are an "eye to clevis" design). The only shocks I've found that will fit are 14" in length which will actually raise the bike even more as the current shocks are 13" in length, I would like to find shocks that are 11-12" in length but am starting to think they don't exist.

I came across your website the other day and thought it may be a great resource for me, being a short male, and found some very good information for shorter riders. If you know of any resources for replacement shocks that will fit my bike/design or could maybe point me in the right direction I would be very grateful! Thanks, – Mike

Dear Mike,
It's wonderful to hear that a family heirloom motorcycle is being cared for in such a heartfelt manner!

Just for curiosity, I checked OldBikeBarn for availability of parts ... this may be a useful resource to you in the future! Use the Advanced Search feature on their home page to get an idea. Of course, many people find what they need in stock items on eBay, so keep that in mind as well.

So, then I did a search using the term "eye to clevis shocks" and found evidence of 12.5" shocks here and here. 1/2" isn't much, but combined with thicker soled boots, you might have a better leg to ground reach. My other thought is to contact Skull Enterprises in Colorado, as they specialize in shortening existing shocks or building custom ones ... call them up and see if they can assist!

As predicated, there were no lowering kits available ... not surprised given the age of the motorcycle. I would contact an independent bike shop in your area ... they may be able to machine a lowering link (which is just a flat piece of metal with a hole on each end). That fits between the top anchor point of the shock and the top of the shock, thus bringing the rear end down. You'll want to be careful about how much though ... the ability of the shock to do its job can be over compromised if you're trying to go too low.

One other idea, although it would alter the look, and maybe not to your satisfaction, is to open up the seat covering and shave some of the interior material out and then recover. In looking at the stock seat, if you did this uniformly across the seat if would be hardly noticeable that you made the alteration. If it's of interest, but something you don't want to tackle yourself, an area upholstery company should be able to do it.

I hope these ideas give you new directions in researching your needs! – Mama

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Thursday, March 13

Dear VTwin Mama,
I just discovered this site - Great Info! [thanks!]

I have a 2005 HD Road King Custom Touring Bike. I can ride this bike fine but it feels top heavy for me when I come to a stop or am maneuvering in 1st gear or neutral. I have tipped it over a few times! I have talked to the HD folks who tell me the Custom cannot be lowered anymore than it is. I know that I can go to a custom shop and get it lowered front and back but I cannot get an answer about how this will affect the dynamics of the air suspension ride and if this is what I really need to do or if I just need a different bike. I would hate to mess up a really good bike. I am 5'6, 150 lbs. Can you help me? Thanks! – T.

Dear T.,
I checked online (using my Lowering Kits page links) and found this product through J&P Cycles. It'll bring you down 1.5", but they do warn that cornering can be affect (i.e., you'll probably hear the floorboards scrap more often). Take a look! I think for about $125 you would have your answer, which given your concerns, is not that much to ask for a try out. Lowering a bike always makes a change to the handling characteristics, and I'm not surprised that no one will give you a straight forward answer on the affect. It's variable.

So, let's look at the seat. I read an online review by a rider who said to lose the stock seat and go to Corbin. You might also want to look at what LePera has for HDs. Or, you can open up the seat, shave  some of the padding out (especially the sides if it's forcing your thighs out) and recover! Maybe you want to check into that before altering the ride dynamics.

At the same time you're doing something to lower yourself in the saddle, take another look at your riding boots. Get something with more sole or I've heard that even a 1/2" lift insert inside the boot can make a difference. Together with a slimmer, lower profile seat, you may find the answer without changing the trickier ride characteristics.

P.S. If you're leaning forward to that handlebar, I'm pretty sure there is a pullback riser available ... getting that handlebar closer to you can shift your position in the seat and also make a difference! – Mama

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Monday, March 24

Dear VTwin Mama,
I am 5'1" and fell in love with a Kawasaki Nomad.  What is the best was to lower it?  I have heard about Works and Progressive shocks, but need to know where to get them for a 2008 model and do they work? – Anonymous

Dear Anon,
Hmmmm ... I'm looking at a picture of a 5'11" man on the bike (from my Motorcycle Fit Charts) with a seat height of 28.3". According to the Progressive Suspension site, they are not showing the 2008 Nomad yet, but the stock shock length on the Vulcan Classic is 12.75" and they do offer something as short as 11". Depending on the exact model, it may be a dealer purchase only or a direct buy possibility. And I can't guarantee 100% that the Nomad follows the Classic. So, I would call the dealer's parts department to double check on the stock shock length.

Looking at a 1500 Classic entry on my Motorcycle for Short Riders list, which has a 27.6" seat height, I see Progressive shocks lowered the bike by 3", they had to lower the front as well, which turned out to be 2.5" and the 5'0" rider changed out seats to come down another inch and added pullback risers to bring the handlebar into better position. A 5'5" rider on the same bike noted that no modifications were necessary.

Typically however, if you're purchasing new, it's time to talk to a salesperson and make the lowering of the bike part of the overall purchase price because it looks like you're in for a multi-step process to get the fit right. But, armed with this information, and a review of the links I shared with you, you'll be able to talk about modifications with much more confidence!

If you've already bought the bike, then check your stock shock length, order a shorter one online or through the dealer and check into lowering the front fork. Shave out some of the stock seat or get a new one and don't forget that boots with more sole can make up the difference! – Mama

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Thursday, April 17

Hi VTwin Mama,
I have been reading your site for 2 years and it gave me such courage and knowledge to ride.  Thank you!  I just recently upgraded from a Yamaha VStar 650 to a Harley SuperGlide Custom.  The bike is still at the dealership (after a month and a half) trying to get fitted to my vertically challenged 5'0" frame.

I am frustrated because the dealership told me that they absolutely could lower the bike, but there are no front lowering kits for the 2008 SuperGlide Custom.  They have said they are going to use a company called Race Tech Suspension to get it lowered, Race Tech is going to "create" a front end lowering kit for my model bike.

This worries me for some reason because I have already lowered the back with Progressive Shocks (lowered by 1 3/4"), am having their custom seat company cut down my seat by almost two inches and now, after those mods didn't have me flat footed, they are going to lower the front.  The sales person assures me this will get me flat to the ground, but this has been over a month now and it's just such a long drawn out process.

Do you have any insights for me?  I guess I'm just frustrated that it's taking as long as it has and that they don't have a lowering kit for the front end.  Are they all the same? Thanks!  I love your website!!! – Anonymous

Dear Anon,
Oh dear ... your brand new bike just sitting there, calling to you, and you can't ride it because things are not set up right yet. Yikes! That's got to be totally frustrating, as you pointed out.

Front forks most commonly consist of "male" tubes secured at the top and "female" sliders that move up and down to absorb road bumps and are secured to the wheel. Looking at a picture of your bike (just beautiful, by the way!), that is in fact the system your bike has, which I confirmed by calling my local HD dealership.

Inside the system are springs, damper rods, spacers, and oil. When one talks about lowering the front end, one is typically discussing replacing the stock springs with something either shorter or less stiff or both. I'll note that on the HD site, it says you have 49mm front forks for "increased front end stiffness for improved handling and a more substantial look."

So, I talked with the service department and asked the question. He said there is a tube replacement kit from HD ... this is a shorter "male" tube section by 3/4". Don't let that fool you; while it doesn't sound like much, it'll change the overall angle of the front end and drop it down nicely.

Now, it's possible your dealer knows about this kit but determined it wouldn't be enough in your case. That could be why they are talking with a company for a custom kit. I would call your dealer back, now knowing a bit more about things, and ask about the tube replacement kit (just tell them how you came by the info!) and learn exactly what they are expecting Race Tech Suspension to do. That should bring you up to speed and give you more confidence on the whole experience you're going through.

By the way, should the final lowering and modifications still leave you not perfectly flat foot, the final adjustment can be made with your riding boots. If you've got a good pair, where the upper leather is stitched (not glued) to the bottom, then any competent shoe repair store can add a bit of sole to your current boots, or you can look for something new with a thicker/higher sole! – Mama

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Tuesday, April 22

For Anon whose HD Superglide is still being lowered in the front for proper fit:

I, too, have a Superglide but a Sport, and have also lowered mine from a seat height of 27” to 26”.  Just a thought for you to keep in mind – as my dealership-friends told me when I inquired about “getting flat-footed.” While flat-footed is ok, having the balls of your feet on the ground is usually enough.  My “buddies” asked me: “Do you ride with your feet on the ground?”  They were right . . .  I have had my bike at “nearly flat-footed” for three years now, and it is just fine!  90% of all riding time, your feet are on the pegs, not on the ground!  :o) – Carrie (note from Mama: how very right you are ... I tend to follow the flat foot to ground advice for newer riders as the majority seem to benefit from the extra security of having a firm purchase to the ground. However, as you noted, one can make do with just the balls of one's feet on the ground, although I wouldn't advocate a true tippy-toe unless you've got some riding time in!)

I am 4'10" and am riding a Heritage Softail.  We had the back lowered with Progressive shocks, pull back risers, and a narrower seat installed.  I still was not comfortable on the bike.  Then we found a shoe shop who modifies shoes for people who have one leg longer than the other.   He removed the sole of my Harley boots, built them up one whole inch with crepe, then put the soles back on.  The results were amazing, and made all the difference.  I now have total control of my bike, and I love my boots.  They are very comfortable, even softer with the added crepe.  If you cannot find a shop near you, I am sure the one I used would accommodate you. I can send you their address and phone number.  Several people, men and women, in our HOG chapter have had their boots done. This worked for me. I totally recommend it. – linwebs (note from Mama: love the photos ... thanks for sharing them! Click on the pictures for a bigger view!)

Boot_Buildup_a.jpg (14356 bytes)   Boot_Buildup_b.jpg (16609 bytes)

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