|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Tuesday, March 4 More for Pat, whose first riding class attempt didn't go well: Regarding the class you took where you were treated very rudely by the instructor. Please do not let that slow you down. I too am a 5' woman, 100 lbs. and I just rolled 7,000 miles over on my 2003 Dyna Low Rider. Granted, 7,000 miles probably isn't that much for a 2003, but I think for a newbie, that's pretty good. You can do this, you just have to want it very badly. I did, my husband thought I was crazy, he had never even been on a bike either! He now owns a Fat Boy. I am the one that got this motorcycle obsession started and we are having the most awesome time together. We just finished the "Tail of the Dragon" ride in the Smokey Mountains, in honor of my 50th birthday! I can only assume you didn't take the Harley Davidson New Rider class, because I just know they would never treat you that way. When I took it, they were so patient and helpful. Don't give up, hang in and take another class. It is so well worth it!!! Billie (note from Mama: thanks for letting Pat know that determination plays a key role in the beginning stages of the learning curve. And congrats on your own milestones ... joy is the measuring stick we should use in this adventure!) Tuesday, March 4 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Hopeless in Vegas, Tuesday, March 4 From Sherri who was bike shopping and needed some weight advice: Thank you SO much for your response! After reading your reply and armed with my DAYS of research, I rode a few of the models you listed and knew instantly the Sportster 883C was for me. My husband ended up buying the Yamaha V-Star 650 and we're both so happy! We can't wait to clock up the miles....but hubby needs his bike license first, lol. Thanks again! Sherri (note from Mama: you are welcome and many happy road miles to you both!) Tuesday, March 4 Hello VTwin Mama, My problem is that at fast speeds (45-55 mph) I tend to become somewhat hypnotized by oncoming traffic....and have even run off the opposite side of the road in a daze. I have done this twice and managed to keep the bike up and come to a complete stop safely (thank GOD) and get back on the bike. Obviously, this is a VERY dangerous problem and needs to be addressed immediately. All of my family rides and nobody has ever heard of this particular problem. Have you ever heard of this dilemma and are there any suggestions? Leslie Dear Leslie, One can learn to "undo" this with practice. Find an empty parking lot and set up a cone or other very visible marker. Approach the object in second gear, look at the object and recognize it as the thing you wish to avoid, and shift your eyes to the sides of the object to recognize where you want to go, and then go there. What you'll be doing in this exercise is training your brain to identify a hazard and look for the correct "solution set" of space to avoid it. I think it would be helpful to have a mantra of sorts when you feel your gaze fixating ... maybe something like Shift Focus or Clear Space ... something you can repeat over and over to jar the brain. Do it over and over even if you feel this hazard avoidance situation isn't really your problem, and use the mantra you have chosen ... you're training the mental process, and in many cases, training our brain for the series of thoughts/responses we want is important and key to moving forward in our learning curve. Then I would go out with a family member on a quiet traffic day/time, with them in the lead. Concentrate on your lane position and ride. When a vehicle comes into your vision from the opposing lane, recognize it, say your mantra, shift your focus to your "clear space," aka your lane position in conjunction with the rider ahead of you, and proceed. Repeat. I think it might also be very helpful to more fully explore why you're fixating on oncoming traffic ... for instance, are you concerned they are going to cross the line into your lane? In this case, the practice sessions will help as we should always be riding with the subconscious brain "looking" for the "out." And the out is any space that gets us away from something bad. So, while we're not fixating on the outs, we're recognizing where the best ones are. Or perhaps there is a different reason ... and once again, consider past experiences to determine if there is something that's triggering this reaction. While all of this may seem very intensive, with practice it does eventually become part of your one-with-yourself-and-the-road feeling. Mama Tuesday, March 4 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Judy, I would start with your clutch lever. Is it possible that you are not pulling in the clutch lever fully when you shift? The older Sportys had a harder pull action, which can make problems for people with smaller or less strong hands. Go to the bike (it doesn't need to be running) and both of you pull in that clutch and see what's what.. If that's the case, then look into an EZ Clutch, which will reduce the pull action by half ... it's truly amazing! If that's not it, then I would turn my attention to your foot under the shift lever. Sometimes what happens is a lazy shift, and it's most often caused when our foot/boot isn't positioned correctly. Sit on the bike and take a closer look. Is your foot positioned right underneath the lever? Are you shifting from the side of your foot or reaching your toes too far upward to do the shift? Or perhaps your foot is jammed in tight underneath the shift lever. Often times one can loosen the shift lever and reposition it so the foot/boot fits comfortably under it and the lazy shift is solved. So, look at those two things and see if the solution isn't there. Mama Tuesday, March 4 Hey VTwin Mama, My dealership told me that they were using the "Pro Tek" lowering link and it has 3 stages. They couldn't max it out because of the fear of damaging the shock. Do you think it's the truth? If it is, why would they make 3 stages in the first place? I am confused and afraid to ride this bike because of not being able to have both feet on the ground comfortable, especially on the hills or if I had to back up. I don't want to trim my seat either. Are there any solutions to this? I really love this bike ; ( Thanks. Vinnie Dear Vinnie, In looking for other lowering links specific to your make/model, I was unable to find anything ... this is not uncommon for sport bikes ... just now more solutions are being offered, but it's hit and miss. Since you don't want to modify the seat, then I would take another look at your boots. If you love your boots, you might want to try an internal lift insert inside the boot. If it's a well-made boot, meaning that the bottom was sewn (not glued) to the upper leather, than head to a shoe repair shop and they should be able to noodle out an extra added sole to the boots. Or, shop for new boots with a higher profile sole, remembering you might have to readjust your feel at the shift/brake controls. I would think the dealership would have mentioned the possibility of a shorter shock and any availability, but you might want to revisit that question. If not, there are companies that offer custom shock shortening, but again, you've got the internal framework to consider, and it simply may be as low as possible for correct operation. A lower profile tire might help, but I'd really keep this as my last option and then proceed with extreme caution. Mama Tuesday, March 4 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Pollyanna and Daniel, I would check this MTC Voyager troubleshooting page ... could just be a pre-load issue. If you still need to think it out, then call the installing dealer and describe the motion and talk it out. If you feel they can't answer the question fully, then call MTC Voyager headquarters and keep noodling out what the rocking motion might be. Mama Wednesday, March 5 Even more for Pat, whose first riding class attempt didn't go well: Me too! I just finished the course this weekend; did great on the stop and swerve; not so well on the u-turn and curve. Dont be discouraged. I loved riding and have the confidence that I can do ok on the roads. Keep in mind that the bikes that we learn on are light and low. The whole thing is learning skills, like turn your head, the bike will follow, how to stop quick and down shift. At the same time, curves and my ultimate demise, u turns. Good luck, youll make it. Leslie (note from Mama: all in baby steps, all in one's own personal timeframe, all with an understanding that learning is an adventure that is worthwhile!) Wednesday, March 5 Dear VTwin Mama, Question, I am considering adding pull back risers to my bike to both raise the handle bar position some and to move the bar back closer to me, as I am still in a slightly forward leaning position. How much of a pull back riser can I add and still utilize the stock throttle, brake, and clutch cables? None, 2 inches, 4.5 inches or what? The stock seat fits pretty good but will probably change it out for a LePera Bare Bones, or a reach seat. I believe that either would also lower the seat, correct? Dick D. Dear Dick, If you start with the seat, you may not need to add a pullback riser; likewise, if you add the pullback riser, you may not need to get a new seat! So, first I looked at seats: I called up three separate Internet files so I could toggle back and forth to get a visual fix: stock photo, Le Pera Bare Bones (you'll have to call up the specific page), HD Reach. While the Le Pera BB is lower and narrower (designed to bring you down in seat height), that Reach seat looks more padded and will move you forward (they say 1/2", but that can be significant to your needs). Since your feet are already firmly on the ground, I'd be more inclined to consider the Reach seat. In looking at that same 2006 stock bike picture, I can see some cable slack, but those pictures are taken with the front wheel straightened out. So, I would go out to your bike, turn the handlebar all the way to one side and then the other and get a visual on the cable slack for the original set-up. My guess is that you're going to find very little extra cable length. In may be possible to reroute the cables to install the pullback riser of your choice so that new cables don't have to be installed, but proceed with caution. You may find yourself with lots of extra cable length then and you'll want to make sure to tie those back down so they are not flapping in the breeze! You might also not like the look. Take another look at that stock photo and visualize taking that brake cable, which is looping through the front fork and then back to the brake. The next step is to call your local HD dealer and inquire about longer cables. If the answer is no, and there is almost no slack when you turned the handlebar to one side, then I'd get the seat. If the answer is yes, then I'd get a cost estimate for parts and parts/labor. That will allow you to chart a price comparison on the various options you're considering. One final note: in looking at the Motorcycles for Short Riders list, I see that modifications included going to a Reach or Brawler seat, a note that a change to a HD Heritage handlebar may be possible (instead of pullback riser), but one person added a 2" pullback and did not note a need for new cables. Mama Wednesday, March 5 Dear VTwin Mama, I didn't have hwy pegs, but I did have passenger pegs... so I would catch the heals of my boots on those and lean over laying down over my left arm on the tank and riding with just my throttle hand. Just riding like that for a few minutes would cure 30+ minutes of back fatigue. Pretty comfy really... probably look like a dork wanting to pretend I have a crotch rocket but who cares. A lot of bike seats seem to want your tailbone to have too much contact. The Virago works I think because it fits my butt and spreads the pressure evenly so I don't have all the bumps running up my spine. I want to buy a new bike, but I am having a hard time finding anything that I think I will be able to ride like my old goat. The helmet makes an extreme difference if you are going over about 30mph. I prefer my half lid, and resisted a full face until my trip, but it was the best purchase I have ever made. The half lids have an enormous amount of drag and it is basically like you are fighting against the wind ripping your head off. If you have never ridden with a full-face, you don't know how bad the half-lids really are. I got the kind that the whole face lifts up because I would have a panic attack in the regular one... it's just fine. Hope that helps somebody! Jinx & the Goat
_
.-.-.=\-.
(_)=='(_)
Dear Jinx, Wednesday, March 5 For Lou and every single person in the Jitters section: OMG..I laughed so hard when I read her posting! I want to begin by saying I'm a 42 yr old grandma and I've never driven a bike until last year. I grew up with an over protective parent that made sure I was scared of everything in the world, including my own shadow. My husband has ridden bikes all his life. The women in the other two couples we ride with have bikes of their own. I really admired them for that, but never breathed a word about having one of my own until last summer. I finally shared with him, in private, that I wanted to learn how to ride. He said I was NOT going to get a bike. So of course I DID. Because I'm still independent and stubborn enough that nobody is going to TELL me I'm not. So instead of buying a smaller bike to get experience, I went out and bought a bike that most men would love to own after years of riding. Now I've got myself into a pickle. I have a 2001 Harley Davidson Dyna Low Rider which is the perfect bike for me...if I had experience. I immediately signed up for a course through the HD dealership. I did well and passed the course, but didn't get my safety card because I crashed on the last exercise. I was only going about 20 miles per hour when I performed the emergency stop and hit the hand brake too hard. I bruised my ribs and my ego, but managed to get back on and ride the bike to the garage where I had to wait for everybody else (all women thank God). I've gone about 10 miles in a circle in the six months I've had it. I've made every excuse in the world to not ride, some legitimate reasons and some not. The handlebars are too far out and straight (got a new one)...the clutch is too hard to pull. (got an easy clutch now)...it's too hot outside ( then came Winter), it's too cold outside (now it's turning Spring)...tire needs replaced (got one of those too)...never have time for some reason or the other...now I'm trying to figure out if I should sell it and buy a Ridley (no clutch..WOW)...just went to look at one today in fact. My husband is about to have a COW! I really, really want to ride. But I'm just so darn scared of this thing. I don't know if I can ever get over it. That is why I looked at the Ridleys. I am just scared that I'll let go of the clutch accidentally, it will lunch forward, die and then I'll fall over. I've already done that by the way (I was in loose gravel and got scared) I'm fine, but I busted a lens on the bike...$50! I live on a really long gravel driveway and I have to get past. The 10 miles I rode was in a neighborhood across from our house and my husband took the bike up there for me and patiently watched me ride. But now he tells me I'm past that and that if I don't learn to go down the driveway, then I cannot ride because he isn't going to ride it to the end of the street for me every time I want to ride. God love him, he thinks he's saving my life by discouraging me from riding. But all that does it make me more determined. Anyway, the only point to this posting is to say that my husband doesn't understand and I was so glad to read these stories and find that I'm not the only one and that there is hope for me. I'm going to think about all of you and try and take some of your strength with me as I push myself in neutral down the driveway [this was last Thursday]. I have to start all over again, since it has been 4 months since I've been on the bike. I'm really nervous, but determined. And then VTwin Mama and Lou, I'm gonna have a margarita! Update since the Thursday try (VTM was out of town at the time):
Thanks so much for the response asking
for an update on what happened. Before my husband got home, I convinced
my 16 year old to stand guard for me in case I dropped the bike over. I
was able to at least get it out and push it a short distance, but being
slightly uphill and since the motorcycle weighs over 640 pounds, I
didn't go far. But I did feel a sense of accomplishment!
I finally got up the nerve to ask my husband to help in buying a dirt bike to practice on. He enjoyed the fact that I had to admit he was right about starting with a dirt bike and we went shopping. We bought the first bike we found since it was only $900 and was in like new condition. It is a Honda XR100R and I love it. I can ride it all over the place and will continue to practice the gear shifting and stopping and starting on it.
Also, I am so excited over a new
revelation. Not all bikes are created equal. I knew this of course, but
I have a friend who rides a 2004 Yamaha VStar Classic. She is only 5'
tall and rides better than anyone I know. I sat on her bike and released
the clutch enough to walk it around a parking lot Sunday. It was
awesome..not even in the least intimidating. It is balanced well, isn't
heavy and I feel very confident that I can learn to ride this bike much
easier than the Dyna Low Rider.
I'm not going to rush right into it of course. I'm going to continue practicing on the dirt bike, then try the Harley a couple more times and if it is still as scary to me as always, then I'm going to sell it and go by a Yamah VStar. I know it isn't as pretty or popular of a bike, but what difference does that make if I can't ride it. Thanks again for your website and thanks for checking on me...it really helps me to read the postings. I check it every now and then. Donna (note from Mama: I'm so glad that Lou's message helped you realize that you're not alone and that your hubby dearest is back on board with helping you noodle out the next steps instead of standing there with his arms crossed. Many riders get that dream bike only to realize they need something smaller to get more practice time in, even after taking a riding course. Your letter is outlining wonderful steps in the learning process and I have no doubt you've gained a boot-full of knowledge that will serve you well in the coming months. Let us know how it's going ... we're all standing by to assist in any way that we can!) Thursday, March 6 Breast Cancer Awareness Run in Panama City, FL 10/11/08 Dear VTwin Mama, $10 registration starts at 9:00 a.m. at Club Flashbacks (Hwy 231 & Penny Road) with 1st bike out at 9:00 and last bike out at 10:30. Last bike in at Club Flashbacks at 3:00 p.m. Drawing starts at 3:30, with food, music, prizes and giveaways. For more information contact Barbara (850) 271-2776 or email Ncas7@aol.com. Thursday, March 6 Dear VTwin Mama, However, it was modified a long time ago and had the front forks replaced with longer forks to give it sort of a chopper look. I love the look of the bike and think it looks way better than stock. The problem for me is that since the forks were replaced, it happened to raise the bike substantially and I can barely tip-toe on the bike when at a stop. I would love to be able to lower the bike an inch or two to aid when coming to a stop but I am having trouble finding any way to lower my ride without putting stock forks back on the bike which could be costly and take away from the look. I have already raised the front forks as far up the triple tree as they can go too. I think the best bet is to lower the rear but cannot find any lowering kits for my model. I have also tried to find some sort of universal rear shocks that are shorter than stock but again cannot find any that are compatible with my bike (the rear shocks are an "eye to clevis" design). The only shocks I've found that will fit are 14" in length which will actually raise the bike even more as the current shocks are 13" in length, I would like to find shocks that are 11-12" in length but am starting to think they don't exist. I came across your website the other day and thought it may be a great resource for me, being a short male, and found some very good information for shorter riders. If you know of any resources for replacement shocks that will fit my bike/design or could maybe point me in the right direction I would be very grateful! Thanks, Mike Dear Mike, Just for curiosity, I checked OldBikeBarn for availability of parts ... this may be a useful resource to you in the future! Use the Advanced Search feature on their home page to get an idea. Of course, many people find what they need in stock items on eBay, so keep that in mind as well. So, then I did a search using the term "eye to clevis shocks" and found evidence of 12.5" shocks here and here. 1/2" isn't much, but combined with thicker soled boots, you might have a better leg to ground reach. My other thought is to contact Skull Enterprises in Colorado, as they specialize in shortening existing shocks or building custom ones ... call them up and see if they can assist! As predicated, there were no lowering kits available ... not surprised given the age of the motorcycle. I would contact an independent bike shop in your area ... they may be able to machine a lowering link (which is just a flat piece of metal with a hole on each end). That fits between the top anchor point of the shock and the top of the shock, thus bringing the rear end down. You'll want to be careful about how much though ... the ability of the shock to do its job can be over compromised if you're trying to go too low. One other idea, although it would alter the look, and maybe not to your satisfaction, is to open up the seat covering and shave some of the interior material out and then recover. In looking at the stock seat, if you did this uniformly across the seat if would be hardly noticeable that you made the alteration. If it's of interest, but something you don't want to tackle yourself, an area upholstery company should be able to do it. I hope these ideas give you new directions in researching your needs! Mama Thursday, March 6 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Katie, If the reach distance is ok, but the controls are a bit higher than your new hand position, you typically can undo the handlebar clamp and rotate it down a bit. If the distance and height are just fine, then check your wrist angle. Put your hands on the control ... your wrist should not be at an angle of any kind ... each control can be loosened and rotated for a better overall fit. If the distance is in fact farther than comfortable, a pullback riser insert can bring the whole assembly back towards you ... check with a dealer to noodle this out further. After these adjustments, or determining all is well, then there are several products to consider. One is a Throttle Rocker, which attaches to the end of the throttle grip, which allows your palm to take the weight of the throttle action ... I love mine! There is also a Throttle Boss, but that has a smaller area to rest your palm in. You might also check into a throttle lock for longer distance cruising ... I'm not a fan of locking the throttle cable into position, but for some, it makes a huge difference. For the clutch hand, I'd check to see how much effort you have to make to pull that in. If it's a stiff action or wide grip, there are ergonomic solutions that will reduce the pull effort by as much as 50%. Again, the availability is by make/model, so ask the Parts Department of your local dealer to determine what's what. I wish you well as you contemplate possible changes ... I'll be contemplating my navel, but that's neither here nor there in the overall scheme of things! Mama Monday, March 10 Mentoring program being coordinated by Lace Wheels Hello VTwin Mama, Dear Sherry, Update: Sherry is asking if anyone wants to assist in coordinating this idea in countries other than the U.S., please contact her. Also, if you would like to submit a story of how you learned to ride or about a mentor that made a difference to you, please contact her as well ... Monday, March 10 For Donna who is learning to ride and has a gravel driveway to manage: I have a scary driveway too. It's long, and SUPER steep, has a cliff on the left side, and ends with a very sharp left-hand turn! Experienced drivers in CARS hate our driveway! LOL When I got my bike (a VStar 650, which happens to be an awesome first bike!) I said it was too cold to ride, so I didn't. Then one day the Minnesota weather turned and I couldn't make any excuses. Finally I got up the guts to ask my husband if he would please get the bike down the driveway for me. I know he was trying really hard not to laugh and make fun of me. I know he didn't mean to smirk as he bent to light his cigarette. But he did tell me this, "I'm only going to do it once. You're going to have to learn to do it yourself, and you won't learn if I keep doing it for you." It took me a couple weeks to get up the guts to do it, but eventually I did. I rode my 650 for a couple of months then bought myself the VStar 1100 which is exactly the same bike, just more power. I love my VStar, and yes it is a very popular bike for women. My first summer riding I put on over 8,000 miles. I did write an article about learning to ride alone that you might be interested in. Keep on keeping on. Leah (note from Mama: an inspirational letter that shows it can be done!) Monday, March 10 For Katie who is battling Carpel Tunnel and looking for help: As far as Carpel Tunnel
Syndrome, there is help. Three
types, to be exact, after trying to reconfigure your motorcycle or trying
a different type of motorcycle. Do not wait for therapy, as riding with this sort of situation is uncomfortable and dangerous. MK, an Arlington, Washington woman distance and camping rider in her 50s (note from Mama: Katie didn't mention if she was already seeking medical opinions, so I appreciate you noting it's important to do so.) Monday, March 10 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Ray, If you don't have a service manual, then it's a good idea to get one, as it outlines parts diagrams and system set-ups. Check my Education Center page for online sources or see if the dealer has one in stock or will order one in for you. Aftermarket about $25! Since this sounds exactly like a problem I had on my BMW, and your bike has a shaft drive as well, I'm going to guess that the speedo cable is running to the rear drive unit. The cable screws in there. Check for tightness. If that's not it, then make sure all dirt is removed and unscrew it. Look inside with a flashlight. There is a ring in there and if it came loose (it's heat-seated into the unit), that would account for the problem (sometimes registers a speed, sometimes some random low speed). I had to have a dealer remove the final drive and reset that ring. The reason mine happened is because the bike sat for some years (before I bought it) and the system wasn't circulating the oil, keeping the ring bathed. Even though I was running it, it simply came loose ... and even threw the dealer in trying to locate the problem! Mama Monday, March 10 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Powerman, Monday, March 10 Dear VTwin Mama, Yes, the Gerbing Heated Gloves are bulky and need a waterproof mitten over them when in use with wet conditions. Yet you are riding in very cold weather and also are wearing plenty of clothing. These gloves do the job and your hands can be warmed to your own need of heat level with an adjustable control. Most waterproof gloves stay waterproof inside as the Gerbing Gloves do, yet the outside is soaking wet. Heating your core is the most important, as blood leaves the extremities and stays in the core. n order to circulate the blood where needed heat up the core! Invest in a Gerbing Liner. You will never be sorry for this lifetime guaranteed garment. Spring for the liner. The vest is less and you will not be completely satisfied. 99 % of my distance and camping women's riding group here in the Pacific NW own and use a custom fit Gerbing Liner. You raise your ability to ride safe if you are warm and not thinking about trying to stay warm. As far as feet go, there is a great pair of boots by Vega around $60. These boots have a great sole and are warm and waterproof. Also buy lots of packs of Toastie Toes at a local Wal-Mart. These are great and attach to the bottom of your socks. These last about 5 hours and then go cold like a rock. Lastly, remember leather jackets and pants or chaps, conduct temperature whatever the weather is offering. Textile products generally are waterproof and windproof and have built in armor. Warm in the winter and vented for near 80 degrees in the warmer months. MK, long distance woman rider form Arlington, WA Dear MK, Tuesday, March 11 Road Diva Products Introduction Hello VTwin Mama, My product line is for all women who ride. My sizes run from a small to 3XL because Diva's come in all sizes! We sell casual motorcycle apparel for women. Look sexy when you ride your bike! We have everything from motorcycle jewelry to jeans. We also carry motorcycle gear, face masks, helmets, boots, and gloves. If we see you at an event wearing one of our logo products we will give you 10% off your next purchase. Skirley Dear Shirley, Tuesday, March 11 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Becky, In searching the Internet, I did not see any other women-specific events in that area at that time, but readers, give me an update if I'm missing something! Mama Wednesday, March 12 NEW! Motorcycle Fit Charts Dear Readers, The thought behind this project is that it can be difficult to imagine yourself on a certain bike when researching the purchase of a new or used motorcycle. Now you can get a visual idea on "fit" issues, from leg-to-ground reach and reach to controls, plus a general look/see on overall style! At the current time, I have taken every picture available to me that had the necessary information with it, and uploaded it to the charts. There are a lot of slots that need to be filled, and you can help! I'm also working on adding some more manufacturers and noodling out a concept for vintage bikes. Access to these files can always be found by clicking on the Bike Type link on the main navigation bar and then choosing Motorcycle Fit Charts. Take a look ... together we can make this one of the most useful tools on the Internet! Mama Wednesday, March 12 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Michael, Thursday, March 13 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Cindy, Thursday, March 13 Dear VTwin Mama, I have a 2005 HD Road King Custom Touring Bike. I can ride this bike fine but it feels top heavy for me when I come to a stop or am maneuvering in 1st gear or neutral. I have tipped it over a few times! I have talked to the HD folks who tell me the Custom cannot be lowered anymore than it is. I know that I can go to a custom shop and get it lowered front and back but I cannot get an answer about how this will affect the dynamics of the air suspension ride and if this is what I really need to do or if I just need a different bike. I would hate to mess up a really good bike. I am 5'6, 150 lbs. Can you help me? Thanks! T. Dear T., So, let's look at the seat. I read an online review by a rider who said to lose the stock seat and go to Corbin. You might also want to look at what LePera has for HDs. Or, you can open up the seat, shave some of the padding out (especially the sides if it's forcing your thighs out) and recover! Maybe you want to check into that before altering the ride dynamics. At the same time you're doing something to lower yourself in the saddle, take another look at your riding boots. Get something with more sole or I've heard that even a 1/2" lift insert inside the boot can make a difference. Together with a slimmer, lower profile seat, you may find the answer without changing the trickier ride characteristics. P.S. If you're leaning forward to that handlebar, I'm pretty sure there is a pullback riser available ... getting that handlebar closer to you can shift your position in the seat and also make a difference! Mama Friday, March 14 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Jan, So, if you have no issue with the width of the handlebar, you'll want to check for a pullback riser, a small insert that will bring the whole assembly just that small bit back to you (they do come in different measurements, but be careful, because too much pullback and you might need longer cables). If you're finding that the whole thing is too wide and too far away, then I'd look for a new handlebar. Here is an article on the handlebar measurement subject that will help you measure the current set-up and determine what you would actually want. What's your true heart's desire? Sit on the bike, off the side stand, and lift your arms into what you think is the perfect comfort position. Now you can see what the difference in width and distance is and move forward with your research. The local dealer can help noodle out new pieces to make that happen! Mama Friday, March 14 Dear VTwin Mama, Many Thanks to Nanci and her business! Happy Riding! Sherri Dear Sherri, Friday, March 14 Dear Mama, Last spring, at the age of 59 and never having ridden before, I bought a Yamaha Morphous scooter...it fit me and I loved its looks. I took and passed the learner's test and got a permit. My husband took me to parking lots for practice. My MSF class was scheduled for 2 weeks in the future. I had the scoot 6 days and decided I knew enough to go out on my own. I was wearing jeans, a sweatshirt over a long sleeved shirt, high topped hiking boots, and a helmet and gloves. I was in my own quiet residential neighborhood 3 blocks from home when I got into a situation I didn't know how to handle (I didn't know how to swerve!) and while I was trying to figure out how to get around the obstacle, I let the scooter slow down so much it fell over. My ankle was caught between the floorboard and the curb. Hiking sneakers are not good enough protection for ankles and the fibula broke in 3 pieces. Got to meet the firemen and EMTs in town and got a ride in the ambulance to the hospital. It was a very painful time, needless to say. The whole thing healed well and now I'm recovering from the removal of the 7 screws and one plate what were in my leg. In another few weeks I'll be healed enough to get back on the bike. The problem is, I'm now too frightened. This last fall, after the leg was healed from the break and physical therapy was over, I bought real riding gear and practiced some in a parking lot, (fell over once because I forgot to put my feet down when I stopped-DOH!) took an MSF course. Halfway through the second day, when we got to slow figure 8s I got so panicked and freaked out and sure that I could not do that exercise because Id fall over and break my leg again, I ended up in tears and took myself out of the course. I have not been back on that scooter since that day. When I even THINK about riding, I get sick to my stomach. These days I can't bring myself to even sit on the scooter in the garage on its centerstand. Even reading motorcycle technique books makes me nauseous. My husband, sons, brothers, nephews, nieces and sisters ride. I'm just about the only one who doesn't. I bought the scoot so I could go on rides too. I was tired of being left home alone while everyone else had fun. Everyone but hubby is pushing me to get going again and even he doesn't understand why I am so frightened. At this point I am feeling too afraid and freaked out to ride. I want to ride, but I'm now so aware of the potential for injury and there is no way I want to go thru a broken anything ever again. It hurts too much and it takes way too long to heal. It's not like I didn't already know riding is a dangerous thing. I thought I was ready to accept the risk and wanted to be a skillful rider. Now? I don't know. How can I get over the fear? My brothers say just get on the bike and go, but I can't make myself twist the throttle. Thanks. Shaking in my Motorcycle Boots Dear Shaking in my Motorcycle Boots, But what to do? At first I wondered if you were just riding because the extended family does, but in re-reading your message, I feel that you genuinely went into it because you wanted the adventure for yourself and not anyone else. This is a big factor in moving forward. If, in fact, you are doing it for anyone but yourself, then I'd say you need to think long and hard about all of this. Obviously the horror of the leg break, and everything you had to go through afterwards to heal, and we're glad to hear that you did in fact heal physically, isn't allowing for a "just get on the bike and go" feeling. I empathize, as I once had an accident and it took me a winter-into-spring timeframe to finally decide to fix the bike and go for it again! In cruising through my own site (!), I found RAF, who had a number of oopsies on the same bike, did take a class and enjoyed learning more, but as of last May, was going to put on a TowPac MiniTrike conversion. I have emailed RAF for an update. While this conversion is not cheap ($2500 plus ship/handle for the 8" wheel conversion you would need), it may be the solution you seek to move forward. You would be able to ride with your family without worrying about falls. On that site, you'll see a picture of your bike in a scooter conversion, and I think it looks really nice! What's also nice, is that this type of conversion doesn't remove the rear wheel, but adds one on each side, and can be added and removed as you wish. That means you could get some riding time and regain confidence, and should you want to try two-wheel again, it can be taken off for that! Give that some thought while I wait for RAF to check in and give us more information. Mama Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Water Logged, Monday, March 17 For Shaking who is trying to get back to riding her Morphous scooter after a bad leg break: My heart just went out to her. I know what she she means by getting nauseous about trying to sit on the bike, using the throttle, etc. and her fall had much more serious consequences than the dumps I took. I hope what I share with you will encourage her. I did have the Tow-Pac conversion kit put on in May, and have never regretted it for a minute! I am doing what I had wanted to do--ride--and without having to deal with the balance issues, and I am having a blast! I went from having only about 100 miles on the bike before I took the MSF course----with most of those miles put on by friends who would take the Morphous over to the parking lots for me so I could practice---- to having almost 1000 miles on it! I am so proud of those miles! On my first couple of rides, I was still a bit nervous, but it was a completely different kind of nervousness--the excited, anticipating kind! Riding with a kit on is different, and you handle your bike differently, but it is definitely just right for me. I have gotten to experience the fun and love of riding that my friends would talk about. I could only imagine what it was like before I had the kit put on, because all I felt was uptight, scared, and sick to my stomach. But having the kit put on my bike has made a world of difference, and now I love my bike! I ride with a group of 6 friends, and except for one gal who has a 650 Yamaha V-Star, the rest have scooters. All of us except one of the group are new riders. All of us newbies took the MSF course last summer at different times, and have our first bike for the first time in our lives as well. The age of us riders are from 41 to 78!! The 78 year old has both a black Yamaha Morphous that he rides as a 2-wheel, and a Honda Goldwing with a Voyager trike conversion kit on it, which he rides more often. We 6 riders rode together all summer and fall, whenever 2 or more of us could get together--- honing our skills, encouraging each other, seeking and giving suggestions, and just having a great time together! Our last ride was in November. We went to a nearby restaurant on a cloudy Ohio day with 40 degree temps. But it was one of the best rides for several of us, me included! I have a few friends who don't ride who like to joke with me about my extra wheels, but they also have told me that they are impressed and in awe, as they would never attempt it--extra wheels or not! I have never had anyone be rude because of the kit. Instead I have gotten to meet alot of neat people because of having this kit on. People will come up to look at the bike and ask what kind of bike it is, and then ask all kind of questions once I tell them it is a regular 250 cc scooter with a Tow-Pac trike kit. I kind of feel like an embassador for the Tow-Pac company, and I am more than happy to share my joy! The greatest compliment I ever got was when I and a friend had pulled into the gas station to refill, and a gentleman on a motorcycle pulled up on the other side of the pump. He got off his bike, came over with the biggest smile on his face, and asked, "What kind of sweet little ride is this?" I am so happy that I didn't give up trying to ride altogether, but went your advice to "go with my gut feelings and trike it." I am so proud of myself, and am having so much fun. I am looking forward to another season of riding, and the skill I will continue to build , and all the fun adventures and trips I am going to go on, with friends, and on my own. I hope that Shaking in My Motorcycle Boots or anyone who has been having problems with learning to ride, will find the path that works for them, so they can experience the thrill and fun of riding that they are longing for. Thanks again, V-Twin Mama, for being there for people. Hugs, RAF (note from Mama: I appreciate the update on your conversion and how it's going ... it's certainly an idea for Shaking to consider! ) Monday, March 17 From Jan on her Dyna Low Rider and the question about grips: What I meant to explain was that the handlebar location and grips are fine, but what I am specifically looking for are clutch and brake levers that are closer to the grips. I have small hands and when I reach for the brake lever and I have to kind of roll my hands off the throttle to grip, or cover the front brake lever. I have heard that there may some levers manufactured that angle back closer to the grips for smaller hands. Sorry for the prior confusion! Jan (note from Mama: my oopsie on interpreting the original letter! There is no easy answer as most products I can easily point to are about making the clutch pull-in action easier, but doesn't necessarily actually reduce the gap between the lever and the grip. In the past, the best advice I could give was to trace the current set-up and go to the dealer's parts department and have them open up the many aftermarket catalogs they have for something that will work. Yes, they are out there, but I can't point to a summary page as such. You may wish to consider getting on a message board specific to your make/model bike. On this Bike Fix page, I've got some of those listed! There you may find specific products or could ask the question about specific recommendations. ) Wednesday, March 19 For Jan on her Dyna Low Rider and the question about grips: Check out Amp Research for a reduced pull lever system. Also, on eBay I found a company that sells what they call close reach levers that come in closer to the bars - Sorry, I can't remember the name of the company, as I bought them a couple years ago. Ratzuki (note from Mama: I'll add that ASV Inventions might be a solution ... we've noted them before, but it's not a look everyone will like, and you'll have to call about your specific make/model. I couldn't find what was referenced on eBay, so this is a continuing discussion!) Wednesday, March 19 Hey Mama, Dear Too Small For a Bike, A nice way to narrow down the search is by going to WantFacts. Click on Research New, Motorcycles, Search by Feature. Then limit the search by all sorts of things, including your cc range, but be aware that many of the 250cc bikes are actually more like 240cc (so I searched from 230cc to 550cc). The lowest seat height sport bike that showed up was the Buell Blast, which is a 492cc bike with a seat at 27.5". I then remembered that the newest model has an option for a lower seat at 25.5" and you can see both of those on this specific Buell Blast page. On my site there are two additional research tools ... the Motorcycles for Short Riders list and the new Motorcycle Fit Charts. The list will give you an idea of what modifications can be made and shows make/model with rider's height and notes, and the charts show pictures of riders on bikes (but we just started this effort, so it's not as helpful as it can be just yet!). So, in some cases, where a bike has a higher seat height, there may be ways to bring that down a bit so it works for you. Since you haven't been on any bike for quite some time, you should consider taking a riding course ... interestingly enough, Harley-Davidson's Riders Edge course uses the Blast (they own Buell), so that may be a great way to check things out! Mama Wednesday, March 19 Dear VTwin Mama, I understand I'll need to practice quite a bit before making the trek,
but I'd like to know for later. What are the most inexpensive (first bike
range and I wouldn't want to beat up a $10,000 bike this much), reliable
bikes you know of that you would ride for example from Alaska to Mexico?
I'd like it to be fairly simple too so fixes on the road aren't a big deal
and can be done myself with the right knowledge. I might be asking too
much but here's hoping... Dear Ika, First, varying elevations IMHO means that you should be seriously looking at fuel-injected bikes ... they automatically adjust the gas/air mix no matter where you are! I've heard from riders who do altitude variations all the time with a carburetor-based bike with little affect (some loss of power at the very highest points), so don't rule it out completely. I'd also choose a shaft-drive bike for simplicity. When I read long distance travel accounts, I have noted that most riders opted for something in the 500cc to 800cc range. These have plenty of power and at your height, you should have no real issues with arm/leg reach to controls and the ground. In your case, looking at the bigger touring bikes then brings you out of your price range comfort zone. My immediate "short list" would be the Suzuki Boulevard C50T (touring). At 819cc, it is fuel-injected, shaft drive, 544lbs, 27.6" seat height, a 4.1 gallon gas tank (so about a 160 mile range or so) and about $8,000. It's easy to push around (when you need to), a nice mid-range bike that shouldn't overwhelm you during the skill polishing phase, is complete with saddlebags and windshield, and a big touring bag could easily be strapped on to the pillion backrest. You could have a dealer immediately change you to a lockable saddlebag option, you already have floorboards for comfort, and could add an engine guard and outside highway pegs for a change of leg position. The only thing I don't see is a backrest option for the rider (it's nice support) and it's air cooled (vs. liquid cooled), and means in really hot climates you want to keep your eye on things. If want to think used, the C50 use to be called the Volusia 800 (it changed in 2005), and that's the name you would find in classified ads (the Volusia has been around since at least 2001). So, is that the only motorcycle? Of course not, but for my money that's what I'd look at first. If you take out the fuel-injection part of the equation, then that opens up the list to include Honda Shadow 750s, many Kawasaki models, the Yamaha VStars and other Suzukis (still with shaft drive, but you'll have to do your research). These are some nice 650 and 750cc bikes (carb) with lower price points. Mama Update: the C50 and Volusia are liquid-cooled, but the Volusia was still a carb bike. Friday, March 21 For Ika who is searching for a bike and my notes on the Boulevard C50/Volusia: The predecessor to the C50 called the Volusia, it's carbureted, not fuel injected. Fuel injection was one of the changes when they made it the C50. Second, the C50/Volusia is liquid cooled, not air. Yo (note from Mama: my appreciation for the corrections, which I've added to the original posting.) Friday, March 21 For Too Small For a Bike, who is shopping for something to fit: I would strongly urge her to consider the Kawasaki Ninja 250. It is an extremely light bike and has the lowest seat height of any sporty motorcycle. The ones from the last 20 years are all the same, but the new 2008 model is a bit different - a bit higher, a bit heavier, a bit more expensive and a bit less power. It's not all bad, though--there are a lot of cool things about the new version as well. It's worth noting that since the release of the '08, though, I've seen the '07s sell for less than $2,000 brand new at clearance events. The problem with a lot of smaller bikes is that people tend to "outgrow" them, but this doesn't seem to be nearly as big an issue with the 250 (I'm not really sure why, but people regularly seem to be "downsizing" to them from larger bikes, and have them for 100,000+ miles.) I used to ride a Yamaha 650 cruiser, but it just never clicked for me, so I sold it and bought the Ninja 250. The person to whom I sold it later also bought a Ninja 250R. Now I'm actually looking at buying ANOTHER Ninja 250. You mention the Buell Blast in your response, Mama. I'm quite a fan of Buells (despite what my friends think of them) but the Blast doesn't impress me much. It's pretty expensive, it's not a sportbike (it's a standard, somewhere between a cruiser and a sportbike), and for some reason I can't explain, it has twice the engine size of the Ninja 250 while still having significantly less power. Obviously, nothing anyone writes will be anywhere near as practical as actually getting to sit on the bikes and see how they feel, but for the situation that was described, I'd strongly urge the Kawasaki 250R be on your "must check out" list. Skippii (note from Mama: very true, the Blast is categorized as a standard rather than sporty; but to me the "look" is still there. The seat height on the '08 Ninja 250 model is 30.5" but I see in the list for short riders that 5'0" and 5'1" people have made it work for them.) Friday, March 21 Dear VTwin Mama, I have a couple of issues: I am not quite 5 feet tall and have short legs even for my height (they cut 2 inches of padding out of the seat of the 200) and I'd like to find a bike with good gas mileage. I'm having trouble finding any information on mileage for motorcycles. Do you have any suggestions for researching this information and/or suggestions for good bikes for short ladies? Thanks for any advice! Judy D. in Georgetown, TX Dear Judy, Shorter riders are making all sorts of motorcycles fit them, using a set of modification possibilities, which can be found on my Motorcycles for Short Riders list. On this page you'll also find charts organized by mfg. which notates the rider's height and mods they did, and there is a link that shows an ascending list of bikes by seat height (although it was done in 2006, it's still useful). We're starting to also build the Motorcycle Fit Charts with pictures of riders on bikes so you can envision yourself on that make/model, but it's just getting started. I think with these tools you'll be able to get to a "short list" of bikes of interest. Mama Friday, March 21 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Bruce, For Too Small For a Bike, who is shopping for something to fit: I just purchased a 2003 Kawasaki ZZR600 with a seat height of 30''. I'm 5'4" and I can flat foot this bike. I have found that Kawasaki has a narrower seat and it makes for reaching much better. Also this bike can be lowered by 2 inches if needed. Not all sport bikes can be lowered. I never thought I would find a sport bike to fit without lowering it, and the salesman showed me this bike as I was looking at others. This bike is also extremely easy to ride and has enough power that I will not outgrow any time soon and fits me perfectly. I'm not sure when they changed the seat height, but I know the 2008s are much higher. This bike is considered a sport tourer and I'm in love. I've already named her "My Baby Kaw." I hope this helps you. Anonymous (note from Mama: the picture of you on the ZZR600 is uploaded into the new Motorcycle Fit Charts ... thank you so much for sharing!) Monday, March 24 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Anon, While it's true that sport-style bikes do pose more challenges for shorter riders, all is not lost. But it's going to take some time on your part to look through the information and then work with a local dealer to get what you want. But it can be done, so keep at it! We'd love to hear back once you've found your solution, with a picture of course to include in the Motorcycle Fit Charts! Mama Monday, March 24 Hi VTwin Mama, However, I was told that holding down the clutch causes excessive plate wear. I don't see how this is the case because I'm not moving, so it doesn't seem like I'm causing any friction. I prefer to shift down to first and leave my left hand on the clutch, but I don't want to wear out my plates excessively. Can you tell me what I should do/if this really does wear out the clutch? I was also wondering whether I should press the clutch down fully each
time I downshift or upshift, because it seems like most of the time I only
need to push down around 1/3 of the way. Is this "slipping the
clutch?" If I want to cause the least wear possible, should I press
the clutch down all the way or can I keep doing it the way I'm doing? Dear June, The majority opinion on this site has been that staying in 1st gear at a stoplight is the safest thing to do, because, as you note, if something awful is happening behind you, you have a chance of moving out of the way. Of course part of this equation must be that you always stop far away enough from the vehicle in front of you so that you can do a jog around if needed. I'll concede that at a longer city traffic intersection, where I know the extended length of the light change, I'll bump into neutral to wait it out. I suppose I'm still subconsciously listening for any squealing of tires way behind in the vehicle line-up, but who is to say if I would have enough time to jump to 1st and get out. This though is the reason that I tend to leave my hands at the controls rather than bring them down to my lap and that with both feet firmly on the ground, I can shift weight to hit the shift lever fast. Not perfect, but a reality. Now let's turn our attention to the clutch action. From The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance by Mark Zimmerman, "the major parts include a clutch basket, several drive and driven plates, a clutch hub, a release mechanism, clutch springs, and a pressure plate." With me so far? Most motorcycles have what are called wet multi-plate manual clutches, meaning they are bathed in oil, and while there may be more slippage possibilities than a dry clutch, there is also less friction overall. "When the clutch lever is pulled in, the clutch lifter mechanism presses the pressure plate through the lifter plate, resulting in a gap between the disc and the plates. When gradually releasing the clutch lever, the pressure plate begins to press the disc and plate by the tension of the spring, and the disc and the plates begin to transmit power by sliding contact and the vehicle will start to move. When the clutch lever is completely released, the disc and plates are completely caught between the pressure plate and the clutch center, and no longer mutually shop. The power is completely transmitted to the rear wheel." Yikes, so what does that mean in layman's terms? The question really becomes, what's the wear difference, if any, between being in neutral and sitting in 1st gear with the clutch in? Mark's email answer: "When the bike is idling with the clutch pulled in there is some slight additional wear placed on the release mechanism and clutch pressure plate and in some cases (primarily older vintage bikes) the clutch can overheat due to friction between the drive plates, which keep spinning, and driven plates, which are stationary when the clutch is disengaged. However, wear is minimal and no cause for concern where modern bikes are concerned. However, when I was learning to ride I was always taught that you never, ever stopped a bike in gear and held the clutch in because if the clutch cable breaks, and you were idly revving the throttle as many riders do, the bike would shoot forward into traffic. I understand the MSF now teaches the opposite, that you should stop in gear so that if an emergency arises you can scoot your way out of trouble. Bottom line ... stopping in gear and pulling the clutch in won't hurt a thing." So, there we have ... yes, there is an affect, but it so minimal that one can easily disregard it. Hopefully as well, you can see that pulling in fully and releasing the clutch lever fully is truly appropriate. One only stays in the middle friction zone to gain some control around slow turns or when creeping a bike forward in heavy traffic so that feet don't have to go down for a stop every few seconds. In this case you are slipping the clutch, meaning you're changing the dynamics of the plate friction and one only uses it when necessary. Mama Monday, March 24 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Anon, Looking at a 1500 Classic entry on my Motorcycle for Short Riders list, which has a 27.6" seat height, I see Progressive shocks lowered the bike by 3", they had to lower the front as well, which turned out to be 2.5" and the 5'0" rider changed out seats to come down another inch and added pullback risers to bring the handlebar into better position. A 5'5" rider on the same bike noted that no modifications were necessary. Typically however, if you're purchasing new, it's time to talk to a salesperson and make the lowering of the bike part of the overall purchase price because it looks like you're in for a multi-step process to get the fit right. But, armed with this information, and a review of the links I shared with you, you'll be able to talk about modifications with much more confidence! If you've already bought the bike, then check your stock shock length, order a shorter one online or through the dealer and check into lowering the front fork. Shave out some of the stock seat or get a new one and don't forget that boots with more sole can make up the difference! Mama Tuesday, March 25 Hi Petra, I have a new problem and searched your website but did not see this exactly. For the entire month of February I had no car and moto-commuted through cold and wet weather. It was a great feeling of self-reliance to do without the car. Toward the end of the month I began to feel an uncomfortable skin irritation on the back of my neck... under my hair, down where the helmet does not cover. I still have the problem two weeks after getting my car back and riding the motorcycle less. Maybe it's not the helmet but the jacket collar, or something in the air. The only thing that soothes it is rubbing alcohol. I've tried anti-fungal, cortisone cream, plain lotion-- all of which made it burn worse. Hydrogen peroxide-- no reaction. It doesn't act like helmet itch, and there's no problem anywhere that's covered by the helmet. Has anyone else had a similar problem and found a solution? Thanks and best wishes, Sarah Dear Sarah, So, I'm thinking the reason it happened is the constant wear and a possible allergy to something in the jacket, which was heightened by the cold and wet weather. My guess is that a visit to a dermatologist will be needed to get to the bottom of all of this ... and a proper recovery. Mama Tuesday, March 25 Hi everyone, |
