Monday, October 1

For MountainSavageGirl looking for an engine guard for her Suzuki Savage:

I have a Savage & spend time on a bike specific board for it. The only other larger engine guards I've heard about are called Wingerline highwaybars.  Personally I haven't installed these on mine yet but I've seen pictures of other Savages with them & they're a big improvement over the standard Suzuki bars. Hope this helps. – wrongwayair (note from Mama: thanks! I linked to one source for this bar!)

As was suggested to me for my own hard to find crash bars bike ... almost any metalworker/mechanic/welder can make these for a bike ... and the cost might even be less than a set bought from a dealer. – Sandra (note from Mama: wow, now that I didn't know or consider! As long as the attachments points can be noodled out, it sounds like a good next step if there isn't anything on the market that meets a rider's needs!)

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Monday, October 1

For Saclilly whose newbie jitters were heightened by other people's complaints:

Saclilly, I know how you feel about jitters. I was riding with someone who always put me down; telling me I was going to get hurt, I'm too nervous to ride. I really felt this person wanted me to quit and sell my bike. But, I will not! I bought it, it's mine, and I am going to ride come hell or high water! The person was not too friendly anyway. Not my type of people. So, now, I will be riding with a new friend and her husband. I felt that some of my jitters came from the person I was riding with who always put me down. I will also be riding by myself sometimes too. I will just get on roads I am familiar with and take my time. That is why I posed the question "Would longer motorcycle classes work." – Tonya (note from Mama: and what a great discussion is being held on the message board about course length! And it does make a difference who you're riding with, if anyone! My b/f Marty hasn't ridden in 4 years and experiencing some jitters because he never had a bike as big as his new 1500cc one ... so we're mixing in road rides with parking lot drills to polish up the skills!)

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Message Board: Riding Course: Would longer courses be helpful?
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Monday, October 1

Dear VTwin Mama,
About apehanger handlebars: I have a 2002 Fatboy with 18" apehangers and I think it is more comfortable than the stock bars and the beach bars that I had on it in the past. I have ridden many 4 to 5 hour trips in cold and heat and I can't find anything uncomfortable about them. As far as turning, I can't tell any significant difference in control. I guess you have to just be confident and follow your eyes when making tight turns. – Jeff Morris

Dear Jeff,
Thanks for sharing that looks can be deceiving and that you're finding this changeover to be a good match for you! As with any motorcycle, modified or not, taking some time to learn the control, handling characteristics, and limitations does the trick in terms of comfort in riding. – Mama

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Monday, October 1

Dear VTwin Mama,
Hi, I live in Nevada and I know obtaining a license varies from state to state. I can't find my answer online and I can't call cause both my phones are dead. So I was wondering if you knew the answer. Do I have to obtain my drivers license 1st in order to obtain my motorcycle license? – Anonymous

Dear Anon,
According to this Nevada DMV Motorcycle Operator Handbook, no you do not need a regular driver's license. This handbook outlines however what you'll have to demonstarte in order to receive your motorcycle license, so it's well worth looking through. Please note that the link is an Abode Acrobat file (pdf) ... you'll need the free reader loaded on your computer to see it.

Alternatively, if you go to this Nevada DMV page, you'll read that, "Nevada issues a Class M driver license rather than an endorsement. Both your Class A, B or C and Class M are listed on one license." This means you can get just a M license without a C (car/truck) license. – Mama

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Monday, October 1

Dear VTwin Mama,
Most likely a lot of you already know all this -- I did not.

"I've been in petroleum pipeline business for about 31 years, currently working for the Kinder-Morgan Pipeline here in San Jose , CA .  We deliver about 4 million gallons in a 24-hour period from the pipe line; one day it ' s diesel, the next day it ' s jet fuel and gasoline.  We have 34 storage tanks here with a total capacity of 16,800,000 gallons.  Here are some tricks to help you get your money ' s worth.

1. Fill up your car or truck in the morning when the temperature is still cool.  Remember that all service stations have their storage tanks buried below ground; and the colder the ground, the denser the gasoline.  When it gets warmer gasoline expands, so if you ' re filling up in the afternoon or in the evening, what should be a gallon is not exactly a gallon.  In the petroleum business, the specific gravity and temperature of the fuel (gasoline, diesel, jet fuel, ethanol and other petroleum products) are significant.  Every truckload that we load is temperature-compensated so that the indicated gallonage is actually the amount pumped.  A one-degree rise in temperature is a big deal for businesses, but service stations don ' t have temperature compensation at their pumps.

2. If a tanker truck is filling the station ' s tank at the time you want to buy gas, do not fill up; most likely dirt and sludge in the tank is being stirred up when gas is being delivered, and you might be transferring that dirt from the bottom of their tank into your car ' s tank.

3. Fill up when your gas tank is half-full (or half-empty), because the more gas you have in your tank the less air there is and gasoline evaporates rapidly, especially when it ' s warm.  (Gasoline storage tanks have an internal floating ' roof ' membrane to act as a barrier between the gas and the atmosphere, thereby minimizing evaporation.)

4. If you look at the trigger you ' ll see that it has three delivery settings: slow, medium and high.  When you ' re filling, up do not squeeze the trigger of the nozzle to the high setting.  You should be pumping at the slow setting, thereby minimizing vapors created while you are pumping.  Hoses at the pump are corrugated; the corrugations act as a return path for vapor recovery from gas that already has been metered.  If you are pumping at the high setting, the agitated gasoline contains more vapor, which is being sucked back into the underground tank so you ' re getting less gas for your money."

Hope this will help ease your ' pain at the pump ' . – Beth

Dear Beth,
Lots of interesting insights in this information! – Mama

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Tuesday, October 2

From Kittie who has been learning to ride a trike conversion:

This is for all who wrote in concerning my difficulty on my new trike.  I wanted to say thanks to all who responded!  Everyone had lots of good advice! 

My husband did ride the trike and said it is fine, so it shouldn't be a mechanical problem with the kit (Lehman).  I think the main problem was that when I would start off slowly, the front wheel wanted to turn and I just needed to steady the handlebars straight.  I was used to a 2-wheeler, where when the handlebars are straight and you take off, it stays that way unless you are turning.  No doubt, it was due to the slow speed, and many who wrote in this forum and in personal e-mails to me emphasized that the bike feels a little unsteady at the slower speeds.  It just requires a mental adjustment on my part to realize the trike isn't going to tip over like a 2-wheeler would, and to not react as if I were on a 2-wheeler.

This past weekend it went really good!  I spent 2 days in the parking lot and am ready for some street riding this week.  Rode for  2 hours Saturday and an hour Sunday practicing LOTS of turns, starting, stopping, downshifting into turns, u-turns, etc.  Needless to say, I was whupped when I finished!  Hubby was pleased, too.  It really takes getting used to, though, when those back wheels go over a bump and it shakes the whole bike!

So after some street riding this week, I will do a bit of highway on Saturday and then have all day Columbus Day to do some serious riding before we head to Biketoberfest on the 16th - maybe we'll some of you there!  Hubby will be on a 2005 black cherry Ultra and I'll be on the 2003 black Low Rider trike!  Oh, we will be getting the trike checked over before the trip, to ensure everything is as it should be mechanically, just to be on the safe side!

Thanks again to everyone for their advice; it really did help prepare me for this weekend. – Kittie (note from Mama: I'm so glad to hear that responses and emails help rally your confidence ... it sounds like you're getting the hang of it and ready to try new things one at a time. Good for you ... you sought assistance so that your dream of riding didn't fold! Remember that if for any reason, after these next 2 weeks, you just don't feel ready for the Biketoberfest travel experience, speak up and say so! It doesn't do any good to take on too much ... and there's plenty of riding in your future!)

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Tuesday, October 2

Hi Petra,
Being an entrepreneur and rider like yourself, I guess I've been too busy to browse around the net, but I found your site yesterday and wanted to tell you that I think it's great!  I like the interactivity, non-judgmental, casual openness of it, and it's easy to navigate. [thanks!]

About 5 years ago I started a line of motorcycle jackets for guys and gals called Classy Rider -- and our gals jackets are actually designed to fit women, like some of the other great lines that you have on your site.  

I wanted to tell the ladies about our new 2007/2008 jackets that just arrived -- now with 1000 denier Cordura, and removable elbow and spine pads -- all textile and all machine wash and dry for easy maintenance.  The armor is all concealed inside the jackets so the jackets look like attractive mainstream styled casual jackets :  "From road to restaurant and everywhere in between." The jackets are very lightweight and comfortable to wear -- not bulky or 'harsh' feeling at all.  We have some gorgeous, sophisticated new colors for the gals to coordinate with their bikes, including 2 new perforated shells with CoolMesh lining for the hot climate riders.

Classy Rider jackets have been positively reviewed by numerous motorcycle magazine editors, and have even been on a couple of TV shows! We are humbly grateful for the attention the jackets have received. – Kathy McCurry, President/Founder of Classy Rider, Inc.

Dear Kathy,
How fun to hear from you! I love the color selection and functionality, as so many women are looking for that road protection without sacrificing good looks! – Mama

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Wednesday, October 3   Breast Cancer Fundraiser in Miami 10/13/07

Dear VTwin Mama,
Breast cancer strikes 1 out of every 8 female in the United States . It’s a number that’s really hard to imagine, until you realize these women are our mothers, wives, daughters and sisters. It’s a disease that can strike at any time.

Bourget's Bike Works of Florida is hosting the 1 in 8 Breast Cancer Early Detection Fundraiser on Saturday, October 13th in Miami Beach, FL. 7pm at the Crown Miami Beach, 4041 Collins Ave. $75 donation per person. Dress: pink and white. Motorcycles, music, food, and light show, gifts, silent auction, scooter raffle, and prize to most original pink/white ensemble. RSVP to aimee@bourgetsflorida.com or call 1-954-467-9909. Donations payable to Caitlin Productions, mailed to Bourget's Bike works of Florida, 2608 So. Federal Hwy, Ft. Lauderdale, Fl 33316. – Cedric

Wednesday, October 3

Dear VTwin Mama,
My hubby just traded my Sportster for a  Softail Deluxe, put the ‘reach’ seat on it so I  could touch the ground and now my right leg gets broiled from the heat pouring off the oil tank.   We installed a Kuryakyn heat shield and it provided absolutely no relief from the heat. The stock seat is too wide, however, the heat isn’t an issue when it is installed.  Therefore I would like  to go back to the stock seat.   I was hoping to avoid lowering the bike because I’ve heard that the ride quality will suffer.  I would like to hear from anyone with a similar experience and how their bike feels when using an aftermarket lowering kit. Thanks. – Deb T.

Dear Deb,
Congrats on the new Deluxe! Yes, heat shields can only do so much and often times it's the same bike, but each rider's body hits "points" differently. Before you go lowering the motorcycle, which does have an impact on the overall ride, take another look at your stock seat. 

It probably would be possible to open that up and shave some of the foam from the sides and center. You shave the sides so your thighs aren't thrust out as far before the legs go to the ground. If this sounds like the seat may no longer be comfortable, you scoop out enough from the center to lower you and have some room to add a gel pad inside. While you could do it yourself, there are a number of companies that offer this service, but I'll simply mention that Allen at Mean City Cycles (an advertiser here) has helped a lot of my readers noodle out possibilities.

If even the best seat mod doesn't completely bring you down to where you need to be, the difference could be made up by reviewing the riding boots you use, or getting a new pair with a thicker sole and higher heel.

I would explore these options, but am also hoping that women with lowered Softail Deluxes write in to give you their view. – Mama

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Thursday, October 4

For Deb who is working on seat height/positioning issues:

I went from a Virago 250 to a 2005 Deluxe in June. I am only 4'11" and had to have the Deluxe lowered. I also changed to a LePera reach seat that put me closer to the tank. Because of that I also get a lot of heat. I purchased a shield from Cool Thighs that works great. I got the info from the VTM message board. I absolutely love my bike and I have not had any problems since having it lowered. But that is the only way I have been able to ride it so I cannot say how it rode before being lowered. I also had an easy pull clutch installed and would highly recommend it to anyone that is considering it. Ride safe ! And congratulations on the new bike ! – Hope (note from Mama: I've heard from lots or riders who swear by the Cool Thighs product!)

I bought a new Heritage Softail this spring after riding a Yamaha 650 V Star Silverado for the last three seasons. I had mine lowered about 1 1/4 inches ( I'm 5'6" tall) with an Arlen Ness lowering kit (done at my Harley dealers) and may have my seat modified some this winter, but I can flat foot it and move it about much easier after the lowering was done. When I began riding the Heritage I was shocked at how much heat was coming off the oil tank, and began searching the internet forums, etc. for a way to fix it.  The solution I have found are the RJS Originals  V-Twin Heat Deflectors.( I think they have been mentioned on this site before). They are leather covered and you can get them studded or not, and are made specific to each model of bike. Besides cutting the heat at least 75% they look great on my bike!  Before I got them I had to wear my chaps to protect my inner thigh from the heat, but afterwards I can comfortably wear just a pair of jeans. They are more expensive than the plastic heat shields I have seen, but definitely worth it in my opinion!  Hope this helps! – SD Heritage Rider (so it's not uncommon!)

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Thursday, October 4

Dear VTwin Mama,
I wrote in awhile ago as a newbie ... now I am a fledgling newbie ... but having some "relationship" issues with my often cold-hearted bike. I am having a problem with my 2001 Buell Blast that I am struggling to find a solution to.  

The bike is a hard starter ... we have to use carb spray just to get her to turn over and sputter ... and then she usually stalls ... not a fun thing when trying to pull her out of a busy parking area.  We have replaced the auto fuel enricher (the auto-choke), re-jetted, completely cleaned the fuel lines, etc.  I had heard that this is a problem with the 2001 models, but can it be fixed?  Mechanics are at their wits end and I am too. Any suggestions ... can she be saved, or is it time to retire her (I am second owner, first was mechanic, and she's only got 2200 miles on her). Thanks! – Beginning Bueller

Dear Beginning Bueller,
Yikes, if the mechanics are scratching body parts (!) I'm not sure what I can add.

Since it sounds like you've really put a lot of time and effort into the fuel delivery systems, I would turn to the electrical side now. Bikes need good spark or it can't ignite the gas/air mix correctly. Since the bike has so few miles, I'm guessing it sat unridden a lot with the previous owner.

I'd double check the battery connections for corrosion or looseness. I'd pull the plugs and check for deposits and correct gapping. Pre-gapped ... don't take it for granted that it's exactly right! I'd check that the right spark plugs for that bike are in ... the wrong heat range can cause problems and sometimes the least fancy types work best while other times those higher price ones do the trick. I'd look at the condition of the spark plug wires and the snugness of the fit onto the plugs. If you're brave, I'd pull a plug cap and hold next to the frame and see if you're getting a good strong arc. I think your bike has a CDI unit (its an ignition system component). If the bike was ever power washed (a no no), water could have gotten into the unit and that's causing problems (lots of letters like yours were solved because the CDI had failed or was starting to fail).

So, look over those thoughts and see if there is something there that hasn't been looked at by the mechanic. Retiring a bike with so few miles just doesn't seem right! – Mama

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Friday, October 5

Dear VTwin Mama,
I am a 5'4", 54 year old Grandmother. I have been riding a 2001 Harley Lowrider ... I have always LOVED the look of the Road King Classic. So, we bought me one. I have had the back lowered but not the front ... yet. I have determined the issue at hand is the WIDTH and reach of the seat. 

Harley makes a seat for the touring bike called EASY REACH. However it is "butt ugly"... get it ... Seat/Butt. I was wondering if there is anyone out there who has ever attempted to really dig in to a seat and modify it PERSONALLY? And/or, does anyone have suggestions? I am determined to be a ROAD QUEEN on my classic. – Debbie C.

Dear Debbie,
Let's see if we get any letters from riders who have done the seat modification job themselves!

Meanwhile, this seat mod page has always been one of my favorites as there are step by step pictures! – Mama

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Friday, October 5

From Anon who was noodling out licensing requirements in Nevada:

Thank You Mama! I'm so excited! I signed up for the MSF course at CSN (College of Southern Nevada) but its booked till November  = (  But thank you again, I'll keep you updated on my status. – Kelcy (note from Mama: this is exciting to hear. Have a great time in your course and learn lots!)

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Wednesday, October 17

Dear VTwin Mama,
I am the vice president of Chelle's Angels WITW chapter in SE Ohio. We are trying to plan a Motorcycle Vendor Show in early February. We want to invite motorcycle specific vendors here in Ohio, like helmet, tire, etc. 

My question is do you know if any are even based in Ohio? We don't think anyone will come from very far since this is a somewhat smaller show than lets say the Easy Rider vendor show in Columbus, Ohio. We are donating all our proceeds to our local shelter for battered men, women, and children, The Lighthouse.

I have been searching the web, but mostly getting general companies that carry all accessories and not in Ohio. Do you have any input that might help? I know you are an extremely busy lady, but thought you might have some advice or a lead or two. Thanks for your time, – Mona

Dear Mona,
So many companies operate online or through distributors and only appear as "the company" at the very biggest of the national level rallies. I would go to every tire and helmet manufacturer and determine who the local dealer is. In many cases, this will coincide with the area dealerships for motorcycles. In some cases, you may find other "outlets."

Once you've got a master list together, I would approach the local shops by calling and setting up a meeting with the manager/owner. Be prepared to talk about set-up logistics (heck, February in Ohio must mean you'll be indoors, right?), how you'll be promoting the show, but also bring specific thoughts on what they might showcase (i.e. how about setting up 1/2 hour  information seminars on different subjects like helmet fit, a demo on how tires differ,  motorcycle maintenance, picking up a motorcycle, and things like that).

Another idea might be to contact the big aftermarket companies like J&P Cycles and Dennis Kirk and arrange to have a quantity of their catalogs on hand in a special section. Even companies that say no on attending will most likely be glad to offer brochures and informational materials that would go a long way to having a variety of material on hand. Not as good as having a rep there, but still better than nothing.

Of course I'd also be opening up the Yellow Pages and checking for all the clothing, boot, and such shops in the area as well. Any readers with more ideas should chime in!

Don't forget to email back when you've got the date and particulars ready to announce! – Mama

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Wednesday, October 17

Hello Ladies,
I am a lady bike rally promoter as well as a rider.  I would like to invite you to a new rally 8/28 – 9/1/2008 in Yreka (northern) CA.  I want this event to be different from others.  One that caters to woman as well as men – equally balanced with something for everyone. Concerts, biker games, beautiful riding featuring the FAR SIDE RUN around Mt. Shasta, contests, vendors, great food and drink, tent and RV camping and a great chance to meet new fellow bikers. We will also be donating back to the men, women, & families of military and peace officers.  Please join us for beautiful riding and a great time. www.shastasalutetoamerica.com  1-87-SOUTHBAY. – Debbie at South Bay Biker Productions Inc.

Wednesday, October 17

For Debbie C. who is working on her Road King Classic seat issues:

I've been coming to your site for at least a year now checking out the tidbits, and saw a post I wanted to chime in on. This is in response to Debbie C and her quest for a seat for her Road King Classic. I know she is looking to modify her own seat, which your link on seat mods should help her considerably to accomplish. If she is interested in an after market seat that would help her to loose some of the bulk of the stock seat, but still be comfortable, I recommend the LePera Daytona 2-up. I have it on my Road King Custom and it is much narrower, the edges of the seat are at the edges of the frame, so it is pretty much as narrow as it can be. It is also very comfortable. When I was shopping for a seat, I was able to find a shop that carried this particular one and allowed me to test ride it before buying it, which several shops will. – Carol (note from Mama: since this seat works for you, it's possible that Debbie can take a look at the shape and recraft her own similarly.)

My husband has a 2000 Harley Davidson Fat Boy and I have a 2003 Anniversary Edition Springer Softail. We both hated the seats that came standard with our bikes.

We both saw the new 2007 Fat Boy and tried the seat ... we loved it and so we went out and bought the seat that is on the 2007 Fat Boy. This seat is awesome and fits our bikes great. It is well-padded and comfortable, and installation involved just a few extra screws. I am sure that her local HD store can assist her with this. My husband was able to put them both on our bikes with no assistance from the service dept.

Seat comfort is so important! Give it a try! – Sandy from Spring Hill, FL (note from Mama: thanks for sharing this!)

You don't mention the year of the new bike, but since you mentioned that the seat is an "easy reach," I'm wondering if it is a 2008. My hubby just bought a 2008 Electra Glide and could not stand the seat, it hurt his back (he previously owned a 2003 Electra Glide).  Harley has changed their seats this production year.  With the bigger bikes going to a 6 gallon gas tank, they are 1 1/2" inches longer then previous years. This makes for a longer reach, thus hurting his back.

Problem was solved by buying a 2008 seat for a Road King, yes, your bike.  (We shoulda made a deal!)  It seems his problem has to do with the extra reach he now has. As I said, we got a different seat and added a back rest and now he's a happy camper.  My point of all this, please be sure you know what your problem really is before digging into the seat itself.  Maybe you can get your dealer to be patient with you as you try different seats on your bike.  I don't know about now, but in August none of the after market seat companies had a seat to fit the new style.  Good luck on your modifications! – Michele S. (note from Mama: an interesting note you've added on the 2008 models!)

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Wednesday, October 17

Hey VTwin Mama,
My bike is a Suzuki SV. I wanted to ask you whether you'd know anything about a loss of power that coincides with the rain. It happened a few months ago, then was fine when left for a bit. It saw water again recently and there's nothing to her, its like I'm riding a scooter, little or no acceleration, she lags below 4000 rpm. I've sprayed all the electrics so I think they're ok, air filter looks clean, fuel filter too, probably the carburetor, no? – Anonymous

Dear Anon,
You're right, this is a tough one to troubleshoot. Rain shouldn't bog down a bike, and it may just be coincidence that it started acting up when rain came. I'd definitely open up the bolts at the bottom of the carb and drain to see if you have water or small particle crub in the system and then double check your tank by draining as well. Then I'd add a carb cleaner to a fresh tank of gas to wick out any moisture in the gas lines and dissolve possible crud in the jets. You may have to run it 50 miles or so to blow everything through.

If you've done this and it's still acting up when the weather is wet, I'd be looking for tight electric connections and corrosion at connections. If you've ever power washed the bike, or had heavy road spray up into the bike, I'd be checking for a black box CDI unit that's got water in it ... it'll knock the power of the bike right off and eventually quit working. – Mama

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Wednesday, October 17

Dear Mama,
I have been doing some reading on your site and I see that it just isn't me with a problem. I took the motorcycle course last June and I bought a 2000 800cc Marauder this spring.

We lowered the shocks as low as they go, but I still have to wear a 2 inch heel to reach the ground and I'm really nervous on turns. I have a hard time leaning my bike; it feels like it's gonna upset. 

They tell me it's all in my head but I only put 1000 kms (Canada) about 600 miles (US) on it. I want to lower it more but I can't find short shocks, or a lowering kit for it. Do you have any ideas where I can get a shorter shock lower than 10"? I wonder if I should change the tires from 16 to 15 if that would help?

I do find this bike top heavy, with the straight bars. My husband got a Vulcan 800 but it's 100 pounds heavier than mine. So I don't like to drive it. but it's lighter on the bars. it's odd. Thanks, – 800 Marauder

Dear 800 Marauder,
1000kms isn't really a lot of time on a motorcycle and every person is going to judge the handling differently. The bottom line is that you're struggling with it. And yes, 2" heels can feel clumsy to a newer rider.

The first thing I would try is to take another look at the handlebar. Sit on the bike with your back straight and centered off the kickstand. Lift your hands to a comfortable position without leaning forward or reaching for the controls. If it's just high, then rotate the whole handlebar down a bit (most likely has a center clamping brace) and then get the clutch and brake portions reset on the bar (they loosen and can be rotated). If the whole thing is too far away, then add a pullback riser (very inexpensive change usually). If the controls are too wide apart for comfort, then a new handlebar is needed.

Believe it or not, a review of the handlebar may solve 75% of the concerns as you'll gain a better seating position on the bike, and thus, a better reach to ground with your legs.

Before I lower a bike or change the tires, I'd consider scooping part of the seat padding out to lower you in the seat. Just an inch trim could do it for you and in looking at a picture of the bike, I think you could sacrifice an inch without loosing seat comfort.

I doubt you're going to find a shorter length shock but a company like Skull Enterprises might be able to custom shorten it for you. I'm not finding an official lowering kit, but given that the Marauder 800 morphed into the Boulevard M50, it's possible that front and back lowering kits for the M50, like the ones I found at ScootWorks, would work on your older model, but I'd call and double check.

Once you've got your lowering in place, you may find that you're not struggling with everything as much, but don't be disappointed in the slow turns still prove to feel like you're going to go over. That's practice! Look where you want to go (not down), don't ever use the front brake, and get that friction zone of the clutch under your control! – Mama

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Wednesday, October 17

More for Deb who is working on seat height/positioning issues:

I also have a Deluxe and am 5’1”.  I had my stock seat cut down so I could flat foot and it did help that.  I have been a trike rider since my 20s (now 55) and could not get used to two wheels so I added a Voyage r system.  To make a long story short, I had to buy a new stock seat because my thighs we r e getting the heat!  Now that I put the stock seat back on I have fewer problems but still get some heat.  I guess I am saying if you can avoid cutting the seat down I would!  If you a r e around Indiana I would be happy to let you t r y my cut down seat. – Jane S. (note from Mama: thanks for sharing your take on things!)

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Wednesday, October 17

Dear Mama,
Please help me. I have a very important question.  I am learning with a 750  bike, but what I really want to buy is a Trike. Do you think I should buy my Trike and learn with it, or it is ok to keep learning with a bike? Thank you! – Xiomy

Dear Xiomy,
Two-wheel motorcycles and trikes handle quite differently. This difference is most notable in curves, where a two-wheeler would be leaned through the curve while a trike must be steered through. There is no real disadvantage in learning some basics on a standard bike, but if you're struggling with balance issues or anything else with that 750, I'd get the trike and move forward in your learning with that. – Mama

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Friday, October 19

Hey Petra,
I have a general question on “blipping” the throttle when downshifting. I’ve read comments from experienced riders like yourself about the importance of matching engine speed with the proper gear. But I’m curious about this ‘blipping” thing. Is the correct procedure to downshift, then while the clutch is ½ way engaged, "quickly" flick the throttle, then fully release the clutch? Or is it more acceptable to downshift, then “ slowly” roll on a little throttle, while the clutch in ½ way engaged, then slowly let out the clutch the rest of the way ?

I really suck at the ‘blipping thing. To paraphrase another member of the forum, "I feel like a Freak without a brain"! The engine seems to be way loud and roaring when I attempt to do the 'blipping" thing. I guess I just need lots of practice. Just want to be sure I know the correct technique. Thanks again, – Nancy from Michigan

Dear Nancy,
You know we really do talk a lot about control of the clutch friction zone, but in reading your question, it brings to mind what happens to riders as they attempt to coordinate that with proper throttle control. Let's face it, it's easy to "over" throttle, especially if someone is crowding you from behind, etc.

So let's start with a starting situation. I counsel new riders to give it a bit of steady gas and then let out the clutch. Not enough steady gas is indicated by that jumpy/choppy forward movement or a stall. With practice, then one can shift to first letting out that clutch just to the engagement point and then giving it the bit of gas for proper forward movement (practice brings a coordinated understanding of how much gas is needed for how much clutch!).

Now let's turn our eye to downshifting. I pull in the clutch lever while letting go of all throttle. Click down one gear, release the clutch to just the engagement point so I can hear/feel I'm in the right speed zone of the gear, then add some gas, and fully release the clutch. It's a slower action.

So, what's up with the "blipping" or quicker throttle flick? I know I do it some times. In my mind, it's a test of my throttle responsiveness. I shift down, blip the throttle before the clutch engagement point to get a feel for the throttle action, then engage in the friction zone, check my gear/speed, then do a balance between gas and the rest of the clutch release. Somehow the quick flick of the throttle assures me that I've got the twist of the throttle in proper control.

Blipping at any time you're downshifting and moving into the engagement friction zone could cause a leap forward, which not only looks silly but could accidentally throw off your balance or surge you ahead further than you wish.

Another way to look at it is this: when you're sitting at a stoplight in first gear with the clutch pulled in, do you ever gun your throttle (even slightly) when you know the light is about to change? That's just testing your throttle action/responsiveness (or in some cases, just making noise for noise sake!). But unless you're looking to move out  0-60mph in 5 seconds, with aggressive upshifting, a slower action is really the thing to do! – Mama

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Tuesday, October 23

Dear Readers,
A newly published motorcycle book came out on October 15th: Legendary Motorcycles by Basem Wasef (host of online About Motorcycles) and a forward by Jay Leno. The best price I found was at Amazon ...  – Mama

Tuesday, October 23

Dear VTwin Mama,
Hi, just looking for advice on handling a 250 Virago on a very windy fall day ... I'm 5'3", about 135 lbs. Is it better to slow down a little and lean into the wind? Been riding since May 24, '07, endorsed on 9/21/07. Not ridden in strong winds before, but dang it's a nice day out there for 10/21. Me and my bike, "the attitude adjuster," are going out to play. Thanks, – Dana

Dear Dana,
The lighter-weight motorcycles do get pushed around more easily in winds, and nobody really likes the gusty stuff no matter how heavy the bike is! When I get into wind, I always slow down to the speed limit and check my ride handling comfort. If it feels ok at the speed limit, I continue on my ride; if it's giving me concerns, I either move to secondary, more sheltered roads to cut the wind or stable the bike until another day.

My main concern is that if I have to compensate for the wind by leaning the bike into it, if Mother Nature decides to throw up a gust or change directions, I may be caught in a lean I no longer want. It's doable, but also nerve-racking, and when a ride isn't joyous, then I'm really not interested (unless I have to make a Point A to Point B run for some reason).

For many areas, the number of riding days is starting to dwindle, so we really do want to catch every one that we can! I'd stick with the comfort of speed limit rule ... no ride is worth it if we perceive a danger level that is outside of our risk strategy. – Mama

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Tuesday, October 23

For Nancy who brought up a question about throttle control and "blipping":

What an excellent question that Nancy has put out there!! I often wondered about that myself!! And can I just say, that ... Mama, what an excellent and helpful response!!! You explain things soooo well, which is why I love this site!!  I have learned so very much here!!! 

Even though I have had the same question in my mind from time to time that Nancy had, I find myself doing exactly what you (Mama) have described! So, I hope that it’s not too pushy to say … I am proud of myself!! (thanks in GREAT part to your website) … and all of the wonderful people who post on it!!!!!