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Friday, September 4

Dear VTwin Mama,
I need to drain the carbs on a Honda 750 Shadow ACE, and I've read that there is a drain screw on or near the 'float bowl', but I don't know what a float bowl is and can't seem to find a picture online. Are there any resources you can recommend (preferably with pictures)? Thank you so much for your help – Mich

Dear Mich,
In the simplest of terms, the float bowl is one of many components of the carburetor. Basically gas moves from the fuel tank through an inlet to the bowl, which one could think of as a mini-tank. A float valve opens and closes to keep the proper amount of fuel in the bowl. Why? Otherwise, when you hit the throttle, you wouldn't have a nice steady flow of gas to mix with air to let the spark plugs fire the mixture for the pistons.

So, this mini-tank in the carb has a drain plug at the lowest point, typically at a side of the bottom. Usually you only need a regular screwdriver and it's deliberately placed for easy access. You turn off the gas petcock and then undo the plug and drain into a clear container. This then will show you if you have water and/or dirt particles. Water and dirt can enter from gas tank, although condensation can form in the carb as well. Any water will float to the top of your container. 

Once you've drained the carb, put the plug back in. To further help the system, add some carb cleaner to your next tank of full gas (be sure to read the ratio of gas to additive). This will help wick out anything in the gas lines and carbs.

As a continuing service to all readers, I will once again note that having a full service manual (aftermarket versions like Haynes or Clymer are about $25) is useful.

From Dan's Motorcycle Repair site, this is what a basic carb looks like ... your bike has two. Now take a look at this exploded view of a typical carb and where the drain plug is. The carbs are nestled somewhere near the main engine (you might have to remove the air cleaner cover to see them).

I wasn't able to find pictures or drawings that locate all of this, but if you're still having a problem of location, then snap a few pictures of the engine (both sides) and I should be able to point them out. – Mama

Monday, September 7

Dear VTwin Mama,
Let me preface this email by saying that I am a man, but a short one at that.  I am around 5 foot 2 with a longer torso than legs, so when I began riding, it was a little difficult to find a "sporty" bike that would fit.  Upon searching for "motorcycles for short riders," one of the hits that I got off of Google was yours!  That page turned out to be very useful.  My first purchase was a 2006 Buell Blast.  I thought that I would add to your list of motorcycles for shorter riders in case anyone was interested.

For the 2006 Buell Blast:
Rider Height: 5 foot 2
Inseam: 25 inches
Notes: Low profile seat yields seat height of 25.5 inches, can easily flat foot.

I traded in the Buell Blast and got the following:

1986 Yamaha FZX 700 (Fazer)
Rider Height: 5 foot 2
Inseam: 25 inches
Notes: Advertised saddle height is ~30 inches.  On the balls of my feet while wearing my boots.  Boots are not motorcycle specific, but add roughly 1/2 inch.  Much harder to back up, but getting used to it.

Best of luck to you in the future, and keep up the cool site! – Andy

Dear Andy,
On behalf of all shorter women and men, thanks so much for sharing information that will definitely help the next person seeking info, just as it helped you! For those interested, the Motorcycles For Short Riders page lists bikes by make and model and their rider's height, inseam, and any modifications to the bike made. It's a good research tool to get a handle on what might be possible for those 5'6" and shorter.

Then there are the Fit Charts ... again, by make and model and rider height, they show riders sitting on their bikes ... this is a newer initiative and we keep collecting pictures. Last but not least, I gather all the info every year and show bikes by type and then by seat height, engine cc size, and MSRP. This way you can look at, let's say sport bikes, and then by seat height to see what you've got to work with! – Mama

Tuesday, September 8

Dear VTwin Mama,
I am a new rider, 5'7", 140 lb. and own a '05 HD Sportster Custom. It feels top heavy. I have dropped it several times and want to figure out how to sit 'in' the bike, not 'on' the bike. Thinking about changing out the seat (want solo), lowering suspension, etc. Ultimately it would be great to lower the center of gravity if possible. Any suggestions? Thanks, – Terri

Dear Terri,
Welcome to the adventure in riding! In '05, Harley-Davidson offered both the 883 Custom (left picture) and the 1200 Custom. I'm showing these to help noodle out the things you are asking about.

2005 Harley Davidson Sportster 883C Right   2005 Harley Davidson Sportster 1200C Right

So, let's start with the top heavy feeling. The center of gravity (COG) is where the center of overall mass is, and on a motorcycle, that's the engine. If you lower only the back you can see that the COG really won't move, but you'll be lower to the ground and your relative position to the COG will change (conceivably will feel higher and thus more top heavy). To really lower the COG you'll have to lower both ends (rear suspension and front forks) ... if done evenly the original aspect from front to back (as the design engineers planned) will remain intact. So, now the COG is closer to the ground, making curves a bit easier to manage because a motorcycle pivots around its COG in a turn/curve and the closer to ground it is, the less work you have to do to put the bike in the lean you need to navigate the curve.

I have heard from former Sporty riders who changed to the Fat Boy. Now at first it seems odd that a bike many hundred of pounds heavier would be easier to handle, but the COG and balance of the Fat Boy is reported to be one of the best, and honestly, no matter what changes you make to a Sporty, you'll never get quite the same feeling.

I have also heard from many women who chose to stick with the Sporty for a wide variety of reasons and they noted that while it may be one of the highest COGs, like any motorcycle, if you put the time in to become one with the bike, the reward is in mastering the bike as is and having fun riding it.

Is dropping the bike a function of the higher COG and top heavy feeling? I am hesitant to assign a percentage value to that because new riders face a number of beginner learning lessons, some that result in oopsie drops. If you dropped it at a stop then it's most likely that you looked down at the ground. Keep your head and eyes level to the horizon at all times since you don't need to confirm where the ground is to put your feet down.

If your drops are while practicing turns, then yes, a higher COG does factor in, but so do other things. One ... when you sit on your bike, can you turn the handlebar all the way to one side without shifting your body position in the seat? If this is not possible, then you'll never have full control of that bike. But we'll address the "fix" later in this reply.

The other thing that affects oopsie drops in turns is your head/eye position. The way to figure out what's what is to have a friend watch you practice turns. You may think you're looking through the turn the whole time, but a lot of new riders (and experienced ones!) actually never turn their head completely or they look back at the mid point for a split second. Your friend can stand in the center and yell "look at me, look at me" ... in this way you know you must turn your head and eyes completely to where the voice is and your friend can report what he/she is seeing. This drill really makes a difference.

Now let's address you feeling that you're sitting on the bike rather than "in" it. Certainly the seat is one variable of that equation but so is the handlebar set-up. Sit on your bike off the sidestand and centered with your feet planted. Your back should be straight. Now close your eyes and lift your arms into a comfortable position without regard to where things are now. Open your eyes. If you find that the hand controls are spaced the same as your hands, but an inch or more away, then a pullback riser can be added to where the handlebar is currently secured. It will also allow you to turn the handlebar all the way to one side without shifting your body position (as we noted before as a challenge). It's an inexpensive item and easily installed. If you measure the difference of the distance then you know how much pullback to ask for. The only caveat to this is that the cables running to the hand controls must also move this extra distance and in some cases you'll need to get longer cables. If you find that your hands are actually positioned closer together or farther apart than the stock set-up, then you need a new handlebar. Or it could be a combination of the two.

If the handlebar test doesn't reveal that a change is needed, then yes, I'd explore new seats that offer more of a "bucket" design ... maybe something with a higher back portion to get the "in" feeling. Some seats, like the H-D Reach seat will do that (as seen below) and also move the rider about 1/2" to an inch forward. So, if the handlebar test revealed that this distance change would help, then it's the seat that could be changed to create the affect you're looking for. One thing to keep in mind is that your leg position to the foot controls will change slightly ... a plus for the shorter gals, but something to consider for your possible change at 5'7" (as your leg position may be perfect right now).

Geez, we've gone through a lot of ideas and things to try out ... but hopefully one or several changes to the set-up will put you in a sweeter spot so that this Sporty is all it can be for you! – Mama

Tuesday, September 8

I agree with all you answered Mich with... unless ??!!!??  I would ask why does Mich want to drain the carbs in the first place? If it is because there is a fuel delivery problem, ie: dirt, rust, etc in the float bowl, then your recommendations are right on. 

But if Mich simply wants to drain the carbs for winter storage (a bit early I would think yet), or to replace a fuel filter or some other reason - Mich may not need to go to all that trouble to locate and drain the float bowls. Some don't have a drain plug in them at all and you would have to remove the float bowl entirely to drain those kinds. Some float bowls can't be removed or opened unless the carb is taken out of the m/c. Not an easy job, especially with two carburetors.

If Mich has a different reason for wanting to drain the carburetors - a person can simply run the motorcycle with the fuel valve in the off position until it 'runs out of gas.' This will not hurt the engine as we all have forgotten at one time or another to turn on the fuel valve - same effect, as long as you don't run it so long as to overheat the engine.

I don't address internal engine problems, nor how to rebuild a carburetor - but I do have a new book out, which is supplemental to the great manuals you mention - ABC's of Motorcycle Wrenching, which supplies much more basic information on maintaining or repairing your bike.

Hope this helps a bit ... I would be curious to know why Mich needs to drain the carbs. S'miles, – Jasmine (note from Mama: thanks for your notes ... you've pointed out that the reasons to drain a carb are for different purposes ... something I should have factored into my response ... that's why I love the Internet "factor" ... responses make a difference! I was hoping to find an OEM drawing for Mich's specfic bike, but couldn't find one to verify that a drain plug was on that model carb. So, we'll see if we get another email saying it didn't solve the problem, if in fact, there was one. Readers, I have an advance copy of Jasmine's new motorcycle wrenching book, which I'll be reading in the next week or so and providing my review of it soon.)

Tuesday, September 8    New Book: The Biker's Guide to Business

Dear Readers,
Last Saturday I had the pleasure of meeting Dwain DeVille, who was riding an Iron Butt with the 7 women Ribbon Riders I had mentioned were doing that to raise funds for breast cancer in their area. He told me about a new book he has authored: The Biker's Guide to Business.

Basically he has taken 30 years of riding experience and business experience and combined what he's learned from both to help business owners of all kinds meet challenges in the business environment. As Dwain notes on his website, "The Biker’s Guide to Business isn’t a one-size-fits-all business books that merely tells you what to do. In it I teach you how to actually do it – and give you my high-octane tools designed specifically to increase the performance of your business. It’s written for any entrepreneur, rider and non rider alike, who wants to turn their business into a high-performing, well oiled machine."

If that sounds intriguing to you, then visit the Biker's Guide to Business website and listen to his video intro, which explains his philosophy! There are links to three major bookstores and I've got it listed on my Education Center page as well. – Mama

Tuesday, September 8    A very special 9/11 flag

Dear Readers,
As you know, I rarely stray away from motorcycles on this site as I don't want to water down the mission of helping riders figure things out as they learn to ride or encounter something later down the road. But in this case, I'm going to stray for a moment.

Last week, through friends, I met Hampton, known locally here on the NC/SC coast border as The Flag Man. He showed me a new flag that he's carrying in his shop which is called the Flag of Honor. It's the U.S. flag with all the 9/11 victim's names printed into the red and white stripes of the flag with a saying beneath all of that. It's absolutely beautiful and heart warming.

Hampton was asked by the non-profit Flag of Honor Fund if he would stock this one-of-a-kind remembrance and I just confirmed that he now has these in stock as well as the Flag of Heroes, which has the name and rank of the emergency workers killed on 9/11. Each is 45" x 60" in durable polyblend with metal grommets at $25 (that includes shipping in the continental U.S.). Call Hampton at 843-742-3530 or email foxyhamp@yahoo.com to order. Mention VTwin Mama sent you ... it's just fun to connect the dots along the way! – Mama

Wednesday, September 9

Dear VTwin Mama,
As a new rider can you share any insights as to how I can get over the fear of riding in traffic? I have a Vulcan 500 and right now just ride around our neighborhood, which is out of the city limits so hardly any traffic. My husband is wanting me to be able to ride the highways with him and I am just afraid of them right now. Any suggestions on how I may over come this fear? Thanks, – Freadie Cat

Dear Freadie Cat,
First, congrats on starting your adventure in riding and getting the Vulcan! Circling the neighborhood is already a great accomplishment, but the scenery gets a bit stale after awhile.

To get a grip on trying out highway riding, start in your car. What? Your car? Yup, your car. Both you and hubby dearest get in the car (ok, maybe it's a truck) and plan out an exact route that incorporates maybe a couple of miles on the highway and then allows you to loop back home on a back road. Note every intersection and any potential hazards, drive the entrance ramp imaging that you are picking up speed, note how much road you have before having to merge into the right lane, check out the exit and choose one with a straighter off ramp (vs. one that does a big loop), and then anything you need to consider for the final back road leg. Drive it several times and talk it out.

At the same discuss whether you would feel safer with him on his motorcycle leading or following. Or, would you feel better if he followed in the car/truck to fully protect your backside for that initial merge and to keep any other vehicle from crowding you from behind? I often think that's an even better first step.

Then choose an early Sunday morning and do it. Back home, jump for joy and fix a really yummy breakfast as your reward! Repeat.

Then take out a sheet of paper and list the steps you'll take to become a full-fledged highway rider. Remember that this is your ride, so take charge by asking for what you need. Sure, hubby is chomping at the bit, but honestly, a confident rider learns in stages that make sense to them. Maybe the next stage is a few more miles, or stopping for breakfast at an off ramp and then getting back on for the return trip. You decide ... write it down, plan rewards, and very soon you'll have it under control.

As you know, things can happen quickly on highways, where cages are trying to get to somewhere the fastest they can, a lot of times with little regard for much else. Often that means they aren't paying attention because they are busy talking or texting or shaving or eating. Sigh. Then there are the semis and they are just big! You'll learn the signs that a driver isn't in tune and to either stay behind or pass them quickly ... and for semis, at first stay in the right lane and then get in the right portion of your lane when they are coming up on you. That way you'll learn the feel of the wind change and get use to the noise and their hulking presence next to you.

Ok, off you go to plan. And also remember that not only are you not alone in tackling this but that positive imagery is very powerful. Once you've planned the first ride, see yourself doing it with a smooth and wonderful outcome. If negative fretting starts up in your head, chase it away with a dose of positive thought. Yes, it does make a difference! – Mama

Saturday, September 12

Dear VTwin Mama,
I bought my wife a 2003 VStar 650 and I have been having throttle problems. The throttle will not idle down when I shift gears. The local shop wants me to have the carbs cleaned first at $350 labor to start, but I know it is in the throttle cables. – Bill

Dear Bill,
This motorcycle is not that old, but if it sat for awhile before you bought it, it's very possible that things got gummed up ... that happens easily enough when gas is left to sit in a fuel system ... yup, it gets to wanting to be turpentine instead, with a sticky component to it!

So, if you're convinced that it's the the throttle cable itself that is the problem, there are two things that could be contributing to the problem. One, the cable isn't lubricated correctly. This cable lube article on Motorcycle Cruiser will give you the basics.

The other thing that might be happening is that the free-play (slack) isn't adjusted correctly. According to Mark Zimmerman, author of The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance, "If there is too much play, the reaction time between twisting the grip and the moving of the throttle slide is delayed,. If there is not enough free-play, the slide {in the carb} will be yanked open whenever the bars are turned, causing the idle to soar. Too little free-play will also make the bike hard to ride, every twitch of the throttle making the bike leap forward."

Continuing on, "Most current street bikes use a push-pull throttle system. The pull cable opens the throttle; the push cable closes it. Some use a single pull cable where a heavy return spring does the closing."

The adjustment is not difficult, but one really has to have the full service manual for the year/make/model motorcycle. It's a $25 investment for the after-market versions.

If this doesn't solve the problem, then yes, you're looking at the carbs. The throttle cable is connected to a butterfly valve in the carb's venturi. Again, from Mr. Zimmerman's book, "A slide is connected to a rubber diaphragm located in the chamber above the carb body. The diaphragm chamber is connected to the venturi by a small passage. When the throttle cable moves the butterfly valve, air flows through the venturi, creating a vacuum above the diaphragm and pressure below it and the slide raises."

Thus, if old gas has turned to turpentine, it's easy enough to see that there are lots of parts that could now be gummed up. If it's not as bad as we think, then adding a carb cleaner to the gas tank will eventually clean things out. It's available at any auto parts store but be careful on the ratio of cleaner to how many gallons the tank holds.

It follows that if the problem is because the bike sat for awhile, then it might be prudent to drain the carb's float bowls. The screw is at the bottom side (not all carbs have them) and is positioned to be relatively accessible by a standard screwdriver. Draining these will reveal if you have water, gunk, dirt, etc. in the carb. Again, to a certain extent, a carb cleaner can take care of this.

Otherwise it's either you pulling the carbs for full cleaning (not an easy task in that the putting it correctly back together obviously is crucial ... make sure to follow the service manual) or having a shop do it. Hopefully it won't come to this bigger expense. – Mama

Saturday, September 12

Hello VTwin Mama,
I'm Marty, from Motorcycle Rack. I saw your website, and thought some of your viewers might be interested in one of our new pull behind, Motorcycle Cargo Trailers. This trailer is "Made in America" Diamond plate aluminum, with Black Powder-coated panels, Aluminum Wheels, and torsion axles, etc. $1,345.95 plus freight, to anywhere in the lower 48 States for $170. We also sell many brands of ramps and hitch mounted carriers, online. – Marty

Thursday, September 24

Dear VTM,
I wanted to ask Sandy from Murfreesboro, TN how to attach the "hair" to the suction cups to make helmet ponytails. If she could give me a "how to" I would appreciate it very much. Thanks so much, – Holly from Marietta, GA

Dear Holly,
I'm posting your letter as there be any number of gals who have handcrafted those ponytails that go on helmets. Meanwhile, I've emailed Sandy to alert her to your question! – Mama

Thursday, September 24

Very good advice from Mama and it’s just what I had done before my first time out on the interstate.  I had never been on the interstate or 6 lane highway before, and I was a little timid about cruising at 65 – 70 mph. with 18 wheelers and cars whizzing by.  My husband and I would ride the smaller roads, and I’d get the bike up to 65 mph on a straight, open road just for the feel of it.  Every time I took the highways or interstate in my car, the ramps on and off, I’d think of what I’d be doing if I were on the bike.  Also, when my husband would ride on his own he’d scout out routes that he thought would be good for me to take.  My first ride on the interstate we only went 4 miles and then took an off ramp back to the smaller, country roads.  We traveled when the traffic would be at its minimum, but here in New Jersey that can be wishful thinking.

The next big 6 lane highway was a breeze (pun intended).  I was able to just settle in to the road, trust my bike and relax while always keeping my eye on positioning and traffic.  Surprisingly, most cars are very considerate on the road, and I found that to be true wherever we went – especially when they see a female biker!   It was so much fun!  The ramps don’t scare me anymore, especially the decreasing radius ones.  I take my entrance slower and just keep looking to the apex of the turn.  The bike follows.  – Marilyn in New Jersey (note from Mama: and so we see that Freadie Cat is NOT ALONE ... but it can be done with a bit of thoughtful planning and courage!)

Thursday, September 24   Big Border Rally, Twin Lakes, WI, October 10th

Gina Woods and her Open Road Radio crew have teamed up with the WI/IL Biker Information Guide to put together The Big Border Rally on October 10th in Twin Lakes, WI. Saturday Noon to 10 p.m. and Sunday breakfast and bike blessing from 7:30-10 a.m. Vendor Alley, Midwest's best bike builders, live music by The Almost Brothers Band, bike games and bike show, stunt riders, seminars and skills clinics, food, drink, raffles, contests, and scenic rides. Tent and RV camping available. More info at http://www.wibig.com to pre-register or get vendor info. Gina will be broadcasting live from the event!

Thursday, September 24

Dear VTwin Mama,
I own a 2002 VT1100 Honda Shadow Sabre. Can I take out the baffles from the stock exhaust to make it louder? – M. Mitchell

Dear M.M.,
Yes, baffles can be removed but most people take an intermediate step first. What they do is bore holes into the baffle in a symmetric pattern and gauge the extra sound step by step. Boring holes is less intrusive and many times you won't need to rejet the carb(s) to keep the air/gas ratio correct. Removing a baffle almost ensures that you'll need to rejet. – Mama

Wednesday, September 30

I found this link to a webpage that shows you how to make your own helmet hair. www.moccsplace.com/images/hair_howto/. This has step-by-step instructions with pictures! I bought my drawstring hairpieces from Sally’s Beauty Supply and found the suction cups at Hobby Lobby. Good luck and have fun with it. – Sandy (note from Mama: Holly reported that she tried making a set of pigtails and using glue to attach them ... it was mess ... she'll be trying this method next!)

Wednesday, September 30

Hi Petra,
I wanted to let you know about a couple things. First, we've just released a new video featuring the 2010 models, with music by Rocco DeLuca and the Burden. You can see it on our YouTube channel at http://bit.ly/my10

Also, we’re giving enthusiasts a chance to raise their voice on riding and living free. Visit http://www.h-d.com/freecountry to make your statement and see nearly 6,000 others. Using your message and an image of a 2010 Harley-Davidson motorcycle of your choice, you can create a custom banner ad that can then be shared on social media sites and turned into a wallpaper. – Laura Vecchio, Harley-Davidson Communications

For more letters from this week, continue to the October 2009 page

 

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