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2003 -- July to December Tuesday, July 1 Here is a site for Shadow riders. I did not read through it for the problem Alex is having, but this would be a good place to look for answers for that and any other challenges. Bootygrandma (note from Mama: thanks for sharing another source of information.) Wednesday, July 2 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Lisa, Uck.
So, I called my local Indian dealer's parts department and voila -- they
don't have it! It's not been printed! So what's a gal to do? The only option
at this point is to get the '01 book or put in an order with your local
dealer to notify you when the '02 is ready. You would think this would be a
no-brainer, but according to the Indian dealer, this is not unusual!
Mama
Thursday, July 3 For No Name who is looking to store a bike long term: Just wanted to add one thing to the good list you posted for 'No Name' for preparing to leave a bike parked long term. If the bike is not fuel injected, not only drain the fuel from the tank but also the carbs. This can be done easily by turning off the fuel at the petcock while the bike is running and just letting it run out of fuel. OR If you plan to just use a fuel stabilizer in the tank, be sure to run the engine for a while after you put it in, to allow the treatment to reach the carbs, thus preventing fuel to go bad while sitting in the carbs and gummin' up the whole works. HammerLady (note from Mama: thanks for the additional thoughts!) Saturday, July 5 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Rob, As this is a sports bike, might I suggest you try SportBikes.net? They have an index of forum discussions that might be relevant -- as the only other thing I found is the XJ Owners Page, which doesn't appear to have been updated since 2000. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Mama Monday, July 14 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Gail, This article is not specific to your make/model bike, but does give a rather scientific description about changing the gear sprocket ratios and the affect it can have on both the low and high ends of speed. Then, it's time to call your local dealer's service department to discuss whether another gear set is available for your bike and if will give you more satisfaction. Hold onto your wallet though -- it ain't necessarily going to be cheap! Mama Thursday, July 17 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Joker, Friday, July 18 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Kendra, Tuesday, July 22 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Sue, Wednesday, July 30 Dear
VTwin Mama, I'm about to buy my first bike, a Virago 250 (the largest we can get here in Australia on our learners permit). I was wondering if you might have some advice about some modifications on a bike I saw today. It has had gear modifications to make it able to cruise easier at about 110 kph. I don't know anything technical about bikes (yet!) so I didn't ask for any other information. Any comments on this? Could it cause problems of any kind? If there are problems with the gears at some stage could it be more expensive or trickier for me to fix them or get them fixed? It also has an exhaust which makes it a little louder, a bit more like a Harley. Any comments or is this just personal opinion? I'm looking forward to getting lots of useful info on your site! Thanks again. Cheerio Aeron Dear
Aeron, Changing out a gear set in order to open the high end a bit is not totally uncommon in lower cc bikes, as some people like the smaller overall frame but want to go faster without winding out the last gear. As long as the new gears are from an established company (either the original manufacturer or a known after markets parts house), you should be ok with future fixes. Same with the pipes -- because pipe exhaust configuration can change the proper running of a bike, you'll simply want to note if you hear any backfires, smell gas or notice colorful exhaust fumes. In many cases, changing bike pipes requires additional attention to carb adjustment, jetting or fine tuning. Again, was the work done by the person selling the bike (and what is their expertise?) or a qualified mechanic. Are the original pipes still available to you and what would it take to return the bike back to running quieter? Perhaps this is something you can negotiate if the louder pipes are not to your complete liking. It doesn't hurt to ask! Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Michael, Wednesday, August 6 For Michael who wants to run a 650cc bike at 100mph for 15 minutes: Quote from your answer to Michael: "you better change the oil and filter" AND "I'd be double checking the tranny fluid as well." I've also read in the questions about wrenchin' your own bike about changin' the tranny fluid. Mama, the engine oil IS the tranny fluid in most bikes now-a-days, I could be wrong but I think you'd have to go back over 35 years to find one that the engine oil and transmission have separate cases. It's one of the very important reasons you don't want to use regular car oil in your bike. All the extra lubricants they put in car oil causes the bikes 'wet clutch' to slip or drop out of gear. Buy oil that's made for bikes and minus all the extras they add for cars. Just thought I'd give ya a heads up before some of your readers started looking for the tranny drain plug. Turns My Own Wrench (note from Mama: tee hee hee -- yes, I guess I talk about tranny fluid because I ride an old '76 Harley which has separate cases -- will keep that in mind for future questions! Thanks for pointing this out.) Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Jim, Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Kat, Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Mo, Tire "grip" on the road is indeed a function of how much of the tire is contacting the road. So it follows that a wider tire would present more tire surface to the road and better grip. Some interesting FAQs appear on the Dunlap motorcycle site which might be useful to review -- suggesting that you could go up one tire size on the Custom IF the manufacturer supports this. While the Classic may have the wider tire, I think it's EXTREMELY important to pay strict attention to your overall body fit as more important than the width of the tire. Suffice to say, almost ANYTHING can be changed on a bike to ensure your best riding experience, but yes, it does cost money. Readers, if you have changed your tire to a wider width, please let us know about your reasons and experience. This would be great input! Mama Thursday, August 14 For Kat with the Intruder bike that smells like gas all the time: I just purchased a '92 Vulcan 750 that had same issues. Real problems started the 2nd day when switched fuel switch to reserve -- it died and would not start. Dealer picked it up then informed me that the gas tank had water in it -- bottom 1/8th -- so when switched to reserve (which sucks fuel from bottom of tank) it sucked the water through the fuel line. Perhaps she has water in her tank too. Just a thought. Bev Peters (note from Mama: it's definitely worth considering. Nothing like a little condensation inside the tank to cause continuing problems. We have a local gas station known for it's cheapest gas prices in town -- problem is, they are also the ones who most frequently get cited for water in their holding tanks which then makes it into your gas tank, causing problems. Just a little water goes a long way to problems.) Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Chuck, Insist that one of the service department personnel (preferably the service manager) take that bike for a short ride and address your issue. While it may be in fact just a "quirk" of that model bike or that it needs a break-in period, you want them you to ride it and restate their opinion after riding it themselves. Then, I would get it in writing. Why? Because if something happens down the road (either in problems or excessive wear), you've got it documented. Don't let them talk you out of any of this -- you paid a lot of hard-earned money for this bike and deserve great customer service. Let me know if you took this step and what the results were. Mama Friday, August 15 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
American in SK, Depending on when this bike was last serviced, some adjustments to the carb might be necessary. Read this article for a full technical explanation of motorcycle carburetors. Mama Friday, August 15 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Norm, Now, with all this said, both noted that it has been done, with a great deal of time and expense and expertise. I could not locate an Internet site that specifically supported Panhead enthusiasts. My guess is your best bet is to locate someone local who has a great deal of experience -- and then be ready to fork over a lot of money. Mama Monday, August 18 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Stacy, You did not include information on the bike make, model and year you are riding, but I'd advise that you seek a specific forum where you can address your question. I have also noted often that there is no charge to discuss your bike's symptoms with the local dealer's service department -- they can probably understand the different things you've tried and are considering as your next step and provide a comprehensive view of what might be happening. Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Christina, Wednesday, August 20 For Kat with the Intruder bike that smells like gas all the time: I bought my Intruder 1400 used with approximately 7000 miles on it, and had similar problems. It turned out the carbs needed to be synched. If the dealer hasn't, I would suggest she ask them to. My husband synched them for me with a CarbTune gizmo AFTER the dealer's mechanic synched them by ear, which did not work. Happy to see Intruder riders out there! April (note from Mama: thanks for pointing out another possible solution that you learned by personal experience!) Thursday, August 21 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Matt, Note from Matt: a friend figured it out for me -- it was loose pipes. So if anyone else has that problem, tighten the exhaust pipes before going to the dealer. Thanks, Matt (note from Mama: well I'll be darned! But now I see that the point you made about it getting worse was an important clue. Thanks for sharing this and I'll keep it in mind for future reference as well!) Friday, August 22 For Christina who wants to accelerate hard on her 1100 VStar: I have a 1100 VStar Classic which is not much different than the Custom except in looks and fenders. Same engine. Yes, it is a cruiser style bike. And to expect it to just jump off the line and do sportbike acceleration is out of the question. When I first took possession of this bike I too thought it a little slow but then I practiced the way I was handling the acceleration and now it gets up and goes. I ride my bike year round, commute to work, do extremely long rides, so I am in all kinds of speed situations that I demand my bike to perform. I have had no problem with the acceleration from off the line. It is all in the hands and foot. Clutch and throttle. I have not change anything like the pipes or rejetting, everything on the engine is stock. It sounds like Christina just needs to practice a little more with the technique on this particular bike. I have ridden quite a few bikes over the years and they all have a different way they want to be handled. 1100 is different than the 650. As far as the backfire she might be running lean as she mentioned or to rich. Just a thought! She should take it to her mechanic and have them put it on the analyzer. Celeste of Oregon (note from Mama: there's nothing like a first-hand account report from someone on a similar bike -- thanks for taking the time to share!) Friday, August 22 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Mike, Ok, next issue. Before you go around messing with the carburetor, I'd do some KISS things first. You don't say how many miles you've put on the bike since you got it, whether you bought it from a dealership or private owner, or whether the problem has been there from the very beginning. Each presents a different set of possible things to do. If you got it from a dealership and it's always been like this, then have the service department take it for a test ride and confirm the problem and discuss solutions. If you bought it from a private party and the problem was always there, then review the warranty that should still cover the bike. Otherwise, if it's a matter of a slowly emerging problem, and lots of miles have been logged, then let's KISS! At this juncture, it's smart to have a service/repair manual available. You'll want to check or replace the spark plugs, gas filter, and air filter and maybe add some carb cleaner to your next tank of gas. You might also check for water in your tank, that your exhaust pipes are tightened and that your throttle is correctly adjusted. The troubleshooting section of a manual for your exact year, make and model of bike will include further guidelines. Check my Reading Sources page for Internet sites that offer these for sale. If you think a carb adjustment is in order, here is an Internet page that runs through the issue on your bike model. Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Lili, Tuesday, August 26 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Broke, I would also be extremely cautious about finding cheap rims, as they support the very tires that keep you safe and sound on the road. Given that a problem on just one would cause extreme danger, you can see my point! Trying to find a great source for discounts on motorcycle rims on the Internet proved to be a disheartening endeavor, so my advice is to hightail it down to your local dealer, where they have access to the catalogs of every quality aftermarket manufacturer who would offer this product for your particular bike. From this you can establish a list and keep your eyes out for sales, swap meets or even check eBay.com for availability. Mama Friday, August 29 For Lili whose Honda Rebel won't run without the choke left out: Just a thought on the Honda Rebel (the best first bike anyone could ever have), having one for a couple of years and loving it, my main problem was putzing in the city and the spark plugs would get real nasty. I would have to change them often, no big problem but it might help Lili to check them, change them and yes deal with the junk in the carb. The warm up time is less , no more than 10 minutes, max, and she will be off enjoying a very enjoyable bike. It is a must to have the Honda Service Manual for the Rebel, it is a valuable source of information to keep the bike up to a safe standard. Jacque' (note from Mama: nothing like personal experience to bring another point to attention -- and I've got a number of sources of service manuals via the Internet on my Reading Sources page for consideration.) Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Christina, Tuesday, September 2 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Tim, Tuesday, September 9 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Justin, It's helpful to have a service manual handy for times like these -- either visit you local dealer to get one or check my Reading Sources page for Internet sites that offer manuals. Mama Tuesday, September 9 I
am returning my reply to you now that I have solved my gear slapping
issue. I did learn some lessons here that might save some readers some
hard earned cash. I
took the bike back to the shop twice. The first time I agreed to take the
bike on a short road trip to make sure everything was thoroughly broken
in. I went from Minot North Dakota to Leach Lake MN and back. Nice ride!
The bike worked very well for me. But the gear slap was still loud as
ever, maybe even louder and more violent than before the ride. My
job took most of my time till I could get the bike back into the dealer
for a checkup. In the mean time I spent $58.00 on a shop manual for my
bike. The kind of book that will tell you how to take the bike apart and
put it back together again just like Harley meant it to be. I figured that
for the cost of the new bike, $58.00 was a small investment that would pay
off in the coming years. I do have an edge here because I built jet
engines for 16 years and know how to make good use of my tools and
manuals. After
many nights of reading and thought, I took the bike back to the shop. The
mechanic told me that the slapping noise was normal for Harleys. I
talked the mechanic into riding the bike to check it out. After the ride
he came back and admitted that the noise was a bit loud, but there was not
a lot he could do to soften the noise. It was then that I sprung my answer
to the mechanic. How
about we check the clutch adjustment. It sounds to me like the clutch
might be dragging. Page 1-57 under transmission shifts hard, item 2.
Clutch dragging slightly. The
mechanic smiled and told me that I had been doing my homework. We adjusted
the clutch cable. Now she is as quiet as a mouse. This
weekend I took the bike on a ride from Minot, ND to Fort Union Trading
Post near Williston, ND. Just a short ride, but it was enough for me to
install some bugs on the front end. Now I have the joy of cleaning and
shinning my wonderful HOG. Wednesday, September 10 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Dennise, As I do not have the specific knowledge to help you on this matter, might I suggest you check out Thunder Twin Forums -- a great set of discussion forums where you can seek specific help on the Dyna Wideglide model. Or, if there's a Harley dealer in your area, suck it in and give their service department a call. Believe it or not, they are usually willing to talk through the steps you need. Then, get a manual so in the future you are not "stranded" for information. Mama Tuesday, September 16 Dear
VTwin Mama and readers, Note from Mama: I was running a bit behind on posting messages, so here's what Jenny learned and did: Man O Man! After busting up two knuckles I finally got the retaining ring off of my clutch. Here's the trick for you gal's out there, so you don't have to spend the $70 that Harley D wants you to spend for the tool...<giggling> I marched down to my local Auto Zone hardware store which happens to be run by a retired biker. I mentioned my dilemma. He giggled, walked down an aisle and handed me a pair of snap ring pliers that cost $11. Yes girls $11. However, those $11 pliers didn't last too long (I think I am hard on tools) I am having to go get a better set to put the snap ring back on today. I originally set out to put different handle bars on my ride (yes I am 5' tall) and I have a Softail. Then I needed longer clutch and brake lines, then I decided I wanted a EZ Boy clutch.... I have also recently put on a Softail lowering kit on my ride so if any gals need info on that let me know... that was tough! Jenny (note from Mama: it is so true that many of the tools needed to work on a bike can be obtained from an auto parts store. To successfully work on a bike you need the service manual for your year/make/model, which by the way, contains a complete listing of the tools you'll need. If you need to learn what tools do what, head to your local bookstore's automotive section and get a basic primer. It saves on the knuckles!) Wednesday, September 17 Dear
VTwin Mama, Additionally, you don't have to be an ex-jet-engine-builder like Chuck (though I'm sure it makes things a tiny bit easier) to make use of these books! If you can cook from a recipe, you can follow instructions for changing your own fluids, etc. I just completed my 6000 mile service, which included: changing engine oil, changing gearbox oil, changing rear drive oil (shaft drive), adjusting valves (never easier than on a Guzzi), changing spark plugs, new air filter (removed the gas tank for this one!), changing fork oil, and removing both wheels (one at a time) for installation of new rubber at the shop. I also checked my brake pads, brake fluid, and clutch adjustment. Before I even started, I installed a center stand to make the job easier (I love my center stand! I can check my oil level so accurately now, plus it makes it easier to load gear evenly for trips). I didn't do the whole job in a day. I took a whole two weeks to do it! Each day I worked I would just tackle one job and then make sure the bike was still running right. It probably cost me as much to do this first on-my-own service as it would have to take it to the dealer, but that was mainly investment in some big wrenches and a few other tools. I had some help from my boyfriend with some sticky bolts, but some longer levers would even alleviate that need. I also couldn't have done the job without the advice of other Guzzi riders at the www.Wildguzzi.com forum, but the fact remains that I did do the job myself. Really all I have left to learn about in basic servicing are things to do with the fuel injection system - maybe I'll tackle that myself next time. The 12,000 mile service also will include new brake fluid and a new fuel filter. I understand the principle, so it shouldn't be too bad. I'm not saying that everyone should do their own servicing, but I will say that doing some of your own servicing, or at least owning a service/parts book, will help you to understand your motorcycle better. Then, when something goes wrong, you can get it fixed more readily. Also, you're less likely to be fleeced by the mechanic when you know your way around your bike and the names of the parts! Plus, look at Chuck's example: his whole problem was fixed with a simple (actually routine) clutch cable adjustment! I've been documenting my maintenance on my "California Stone Information Page" (www.armory.com/~marina), so it will be available to other Guzzi riders with the same bike. I'm including all the tips I can find to make these jobs easier for other riders attempting these tasks for the first time. Who knows, maybe next time around I can take some cute photos of a little Italian guy doing the work (I love that GI Joe maintenance site!). Again, thanks for the terrific website! Marina Dear
Marina, Thursday, September 18 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
PJK, Harley lawyer: "Your honor, our competitor's
ripoff of our product purposely goes potato-potato-potato." Ha! Here is an article from a V-Star 1100 owner who modified the stock pipes to get more of a Harley sound, but be aware, the mods are usually to increase the noise level. A lot of opinions I saw posted on other sites suggested going to a Roadhouse 2:1 classic exhaust to get the "rumble" and depth. You can read more about that choice at http://www.roadhousebrand.com/. Other than that, I might suggest you visit a specific VStar 650 Custom discussion forum to explore what other riders like yourself found to work for them. Mama Monday, September 22 Dear
VTwin Mama, Upon removal, a difficult task with the bow....that was not the problem...the problem was getting it back on. IMPOSSIBLE! Took that part to a local bike shop and had them bend it back into the best shape they could and try again -- still no go. Back to bike shop. They said drill out slightly bigger so it will fit back on. So he did that, but while the lower pipe was off, he filled the oil, replaced the filter and STARTED THE BIKE without the lower pipe. Mind you the bike only ran for approx. 1 or 2 minutes at most. Then he put pipe back on tightened everything down and was done. The next day, I went to ride my bike and could not get it to stay running. Put on choke (never had to choke before) and would run with a full chock but sounded terrible. Would run then pick up faster, like it was getting a bunch of gas then hardly any gas, etc. Now I can't get it stay running at all. Several people think perhaps I have a stuck valve from running with pipe off. Anyone got any ideas before I go take it in to shop? Christina Dear
Christina, Tuesday, September 23 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Bob, If you meant for this question to be more general in nature, the answer is that a backrest will come with some type of mounting hardware and fits differently to the bike depending on the product you order -- just make sure you order something that is specifically made for your make/model/year. A quick look at aftermarket catalogs (that you can get for free) or at your dealer will quickly reveal what is what! Mama Friday, September 26 Dear
VTwin Mama, I have more lessons learned. You might get a giggle out of this one. After I was done reassembling all this, I dumped in the primary fluid. Stood her up and started her up and tried to shift through the gears. No go. Hmmmm. Starting to doubt my mechanical abilities. Had neighbor motorcycle enthusiast come by. He said, well you wouldn't be able to start it if your clutch was broken, (good point I agreed). He said crank it up again and try to shift, I did. He laughed and said my shift lever was hitting my foot peg. In my haste I installed it one rotation too low. No wonder my boot couldn't fit under it. ARGH! Lesson learned. Sometimes it is the simple things that get you . Don't be afraid to have an extra pair of eyes, or take a break when wrenching on your machine. It could make the difference, and save your hide. And boy it felt good to ride for two hours today! Take care! Ride safe. Jenny Dear
Jenny, Dear
VTwin Mama, During my last ride, I started hearing a low-pitched noise resembling a horn beep (but elongated) whenever I was riding around in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears. Once I accelerated past 3rd gear and went to higher speeds, the noise went away (I think). Do you have any ideas what could be causing that noise? I'm positive it is not your standard wind noise. I've looked through the service/maintenance manual and its troubleshooting sections, but cannot find a similar problem. Thanks for any help or suggestions. BTW -- I love your site! I'm a real newbie (took the MSF course at the end of May 2003 and got my license at the end of June) and appreciate all the info you and your readers have given. :) Cecilia Dear
Cecilia, Hmmmm . . . I'm stumped. So, my advice is to follow the KISS (keep it simple, stupid) principal and start with basic routine maintenance procedures (to rule out or take care of simple things that might be needed). Unless you know the seller of your bike well, it's hard to say when the last time maintenance was done. Have you done any yourself yet?! Oil and oil filter change comes to mind and basic lubrication points, as well as tightening up chains and belts and bolts. Parts and pieces that are not well-oiled or lubed could be creating the noise. If you feel this is not the case, then I would ride your bike over to the local dealer and have the service department take a quick spin on it to 1) acknowledge the noise and 2) offer their assessment. Mama Thursday, October 2 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Louise, Did I miss the point of your question? Mama Friday, October 3 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Jozi, If you don't know what a banjo bolt looks like, go to this site and scroll down to the second picture: it shows a banjo bolt for a brake line: http://www.blackbook.org/2002/11/021116.php. This should at least help you figure out what you're looking for. Hope this helps. Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
SE, So, I did some searching and wee-hee, my normal sources didn't have it! So, I backtracked and found it at Amazon bookstore online. Here's the direct link! Good price and may be eligible for shipping super saver rate. Mama
Tuesday, November 4 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Hakim, http://www.repairmanuals.com/motorcycles/1990/69/4/3524/250 Meanwhile, if your battery is leaking, the only thing to do is get a new one immediately. This is a dangerous situation as there is acid inside the battery which will eat away at whatever it drips on. There is no fix -- just get a new one! Mama Tuesday, November 4 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Linda, Meanwhile, it would be advisable to get yourself a service/repair manual for upcoming future maintenance and stuff -- here's a direct link and only costs $20.97 plus shipping!
Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Angela, With bikes (and most things mechanical/electrical), the KISS (keep it simple stupid) principle applies. So, it you really need to, check first the most obvious things on your own. Faulty gas lever (not opening correctly to allow full gas flow), low gas level (and water condensation in tank so it's sucking gas/water mix), fouled spark plugs (you wouldn't believe how easy this can happen), clogged gas filter (who knows?), crap in carb (add a little carb cleaner to the gas), lose connection at exhaust pipe(s) (will goof you up quick-like also), carb set wrong (too much or too little gas in relation to the air), air filter clogged (did you go through a dust/dirt storm in those 100 miles?!). As you can see, many things are inter-related and could be causing the problem, but right now, I'm concerned that a brand new bike is burping. Head to the dealer. Mama Thursday, November 6 From Angela whose really brand new bike started backfiring: Yes, you were right, I brought it over to the dealer and it was a fouled plug. A note to the newbies -- I laid my bike down the 1st time I got on it and that's the only thing they came up with. Being a new rider and hubby having a Goldwing that seems to Never have problems (knocking on wood), we were puzzled and non the less frustrated. Thanks a lot and I love your site. Seems all my questions are always found and answered here. Angela (note from Mama: I should have just replied: KISS. Fouled spark plug. Otherwise, visit dealer. !!!!! Meanwhile, glad it was something simple and not a lemon gremlin. Here's to your next couple of gazillion miles!) Friday, November 14 For SE Wright who had questions about the service manual for her "new" bike: The Savage manual will say up to a certain year 1988 I think, but it will work for the 1989 also. There were no major differences in the bikes. At some point along the way they went from a 4 speed to a 5 speed. But anyway, I have a 1997 Savage that I use the Clymer manual for, and although it does not say for my year, it has been invaluable! Volley (note from Mama: thanks for sharing!) Thursday, November 20 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Alice, Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Jen, True confession: I did once jump a bike battery from a car battery just like you would do car to car and I am not aware it did any permanent damage. However, it was a real challenge to get those huge cable clamps on those itsy bitsy bike battery terminals and the whole time I was wondering what I was going to end up frying if one of the clamps came loose and hit something it wasn't supposed to (ie, the frame of the bike and fry the electrical wiring, etc). Given the cost of car batteries these days (not to mention motorcycle batteries), I prefer to take the safe route unless under extreme duress. Now, some bikes have built in, plug in chargers and some people have mentioned that they like the "battery tenders" that you can find online at places such as J&P Cycles. I have no personal experience with them, and am not comfortable leaving something plugged in and unattended. Heck, I won't even leave a trickle charger in my open garage on overnight. So, my recommendation is to get a good trickle charger, remove the battery from the bike when it's clearly not going to be in use, try to preplan your next ride (heck the weather reports are at least accurate to within 36 hours!) and trickle the day before. Mama Tuesday, November 25 Dear
VTwin Mama, I quit being a motorcycle guru about 20 years ago, I did work on all types for 18 years. Male mechanics forget that a woman that rides might not have a passenger -- they want their freedom and solo women aren't as heavy as a man and require less travel with shocks and forks. She then told me she had injured her hand and was trying to build the strength back up and could I do anything with her clutch. I suggested setting it up with a hydraulic master and slave, it's just plumbing :-) If I figure this out are there any folks out there that are looking for the same? I'm reasonably sure I can do this, if for one then why not for all :-) Thx Big George Lathbury (www.glathburyfab.com, glathbur@bellsouth.net) Dear
George, Tuesday, November 25 Won't do any harm to a twelve volt bike battery. Attach leads to bike first, then negative to car, then positive to car. Start car, let it idle for about thirty seconds then start the bike. It doesn't charge the bike battery, it just gives it enough extra voltage to kick the engine over. Remove the red from car, then the black when finished. Terri has to start the Duke like this frequently because the battery goes flat over the weeks she doesn't ride it. Why I HAVE to take it for runs every now and again! (heh,heh). K&T downunder (note from Mama: thanks for sharing!) Friday, November 28 Dear
VTwin Mama, Wanted to let Yamaha owners know that for spec questions - like what kind of oil filter and where is it, as well as spark plug gapping - the owner's manual contains all that info. I find the Repair Manual to be over my head on many issues, but the owner's manual is written for the rider, not the mechanic. It often shows how to change the oil, too. Alice Dear
Alice, Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
jonnie, The backfire on a bike indicates it is in bad need of a tune-up. You do not wish to replicate this and harm your bike and I haven't the vaguest idea of how you badly tune your bike to sometimes backfire. Ick. Modifying and/or changing the pipes however, is perfectly fun! You may be able to remove baffles in your current pipes so that when you crack the throttle (quickly pull back on the throttle grip for a short second), you will roar the exhaust pipes. However, removing baffles may change the bike's engine performance. Proceed with caution and discuss with your dealer's service department. Then step over to the parts department and start looking at alternative pipes that are designed for your bike. Many makes other than Harley now offer pipes that resemble the HD growl/howl/roar that should satisfy your need for noise! Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Now that I'm riding both bikes, the Bonneville feels big and the Blast feels small, but I expect that will change with familiarity. I now think part of the problem with the Bonneville was not the clutch after all but the sticky throttle, and I'm going to have it looked into. It shouldn't be notchy like that, Bob says, and we don't think it was when I first got the bike. Does anyone else have experience with a notchy throttle? Regards, Sarah Dear
Sarah, As to your question about a "notchy" throttle. I did a quick read through of this wonderful page that explains how a carbureator works ('cause essentially that is what the throttle is controlling) -- and one thing that caught my eye (and that I now remember) is that bikes that have sat around for a bit (and if I recall correctly, the Bonnie was hanging out while you rode the Blast for awhile) can sometimes get gummed up a bit in the carb, so adding a carb cleaner to the fuel tank is a good way to work that out. That might account for what you are experiencing. Of course, if it is the throttle control itself, that might also be a matter of removing and thoroughly cleaning. Bikes do get dirty and gritty and grime works its way into the smallest of openings. Hmmmm . . . that's all I can think of right now. Mama Monday, December 1 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Susie, Tuesday, December 2 For jonnie who wants to purposefully backfire the bike: I wanted to put my two cents in for Jonnie who wants to have her (?) bike 'BackFire' on command. You could well be right in that they are looking for the 'rumble' of pipes... however... I saw the question just as it was because amongst other things? I have an awful ornery streak. There have been occasions over the years, where I've had a not too friendly crowd of 'looky Lous' watch me, while I get ready to get on my bike at one place or another. Sometimes, just sometimes mind you, if some of the comments I hear from the group aren't supportive? I've used the backfire to make 'em jump out of their shoes, just as my little gift to them for their kind thoughts. This method has worked with both bikes I've had, my first; Honda CMX450C (Rebel 450) and my current bike Suzuki VS1400GL (Intruder). I don't know if works with every bike, especially ones with EFI, but for carbed bikes, here's the trick. Turn on the key, but leave the engine cut off switch in the OFF position. Hit the start button for about 6 cranks, then quickly turn on the engine cut off and hit the start button again. This should ignite the fuel that was pumped in during the first cranking and POW! I don't recommend doing this often because it IS really hard on bike...and there have been a couple of times I thought I might blow the pipes right off the bike, but that ornery streak just wins out once in a while... ya know? HammerLady@ShinnySideUp.com (note from Mama: good grief! who knew? well, you did!!!!) Monday, December 8 For jonnie who wants to purposefully backfire the bike: By God Petra (aka VTwin Mama), you've got more patience than me. As you pointed out -- the result of a badly tuned bike. A later letter from the lady with the 1400 explaining how to make a bike backfire. I await the day that the carbs are damaged beyond repair. A few years ago my stepson kickstarted his DT 175 trail bike, it backfired, blew back through the carb, shot the spark plug out of its hole and cracked the head. Yes, I can see that a bike that backfires on command would be popular! As we have the 600 Ducati, thought Jonnie might want to know that Conti Pipes have been the favored aftermarket pipe for all Ducati's for many years. Loud? Terri's two into one sounds like a bloody rocket launcher! Take care mate. Regards K&T (Kevin and Terri downunder) (note from Mama: you really nailed together the thought of possible extensive damage by purposefully backfiring a bike; and it brings out the thought that a badly tuned bike is a real no-no for long term bike life!) I don't know if it will work on a bike or not, but my old Suburban backfires and belches constantly. It will until I turn the timing back down, rebuild the carburetor and fix the exhaust (the muffler doesn't muffle, too many loud backfires). If you want to let your bike get that messed up so that you can backfire it, let me know if it works, now I'm curious... Traci in Kansas City, MO (note from Mama: I'm thinking jonnie is getting the point!) Tuesday, December 9 Dear
VTwin Mama, Here's some safety/respect ploys and tricks I've had success with however...God knows we need 'em in a city where you've got drivers who've never rode a bicycle, even with training wheels... Yellow cabs have NEVER given me a hard time, but trucks and vans are at a disadvantage due to visibility. Forget about Gypsy cabs, as they are "hungry", un-professional and too short to be driving Lincolns and LTDs. I will avoid license plates snobbery, but everyone knows what colors to watch out for.....And, please, women from the suburbs, get off the cell phone! You can get a gold or platinum "hands free" type anywhere! Stop adding fuel to fire of public opinion against us women drivers!!!!! Okay, here's my rules: always wear lipstick, esp. if you don't have a pony-tail. Men have them but only wear chapstick, usually I also try to dress like cool women riders should.....i.e, leather pants, jackets, something with color, eg. a scarf, tied securely, and boots....Shorts and sandals belong at Daytona's bike week, not on city streets. My Buell has enough sound to be heard, versus the almost too quiet BMW's but I have also been known to stand on my pegs at busy 24 lane cross-streets, or when going through green lights on busy avenues at night.....It might not be the best for balance, but a tleast my Blast handles extremely well, I'm seen, and lastly, stop at late yellows, don't race it. People die like that A LOT...... Now I have a question for you; My bike will not start for the first time in 3 years... It rained hard, I was away, no cover, windy, etc.... the battery/lights/starter work, but she won't turn over.....Where is the spark plug? My mechanic hates my bike, swears at it when it's on the lift, etc......Needless to say I am handy, want to fix it myself, and can't find the 2001 manual, natch. Front and Back bearings are gone too, i.e.,"sealed" my ass...So I'm looking at a project at the tender age of 11,230 miles. Should I try that starter spray that goes into the K/S filter? (this was suggested by another rider who swears by KLR's only) Thanks for your time...Stay safe and warm... Jenifer Dear
Jenifer, In past bike models, plug wires that led to spark plugs were easy to see, but for instance, on my friend's BMW, we had to flip through the manual to figure out what cover they were hidden under. Yuck. More work to get to the darn things. Sorry, but without the manual, I simply don't know where the darn things are, but it's a 99.9% best chance they are on the left side under a cover near the bottom front somewhere. Mama Tuesday, December 9 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
No Name, Now, let me also suggest that you get a repair manual for your bike (if you don't already have one). Check my Reading Sources page for links to sites that offer them. These are excellent guides to begin looking through to first get a general sense of things, then look at the scheduled maintenance lists to understand what should be done, and then to begin trying basics (these manuals include tool lists and pictures to help you get started). A little adventure is in order! Mama Wednesday, December 10 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Bob, For spark plug gaps, go to the NGK site, select Power Sports, select Motorcycles, and then start choosing your make/model/year. It will list the gap. Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, My options are a new tank or a treatment that leaves a porcelain-like coating on the inside of this one, which can't be guaranteed to cover completely. I am going to Triumph myself and ask why they will not cover this under the warranty. I wonder how much of my crash was caused by this hesitation of the throttle and not merely my newness to the sport. My dream bike has a tank full of sand. Sarah Dear
Sarah, So don't let this set back throw you completely. Yes, Triumph owes you an explanation (it's in their interest to solve the production run problem or bigger problem if it's still the same process they are using) and let's face it, as far as coverage, well, if it digs into their profits, no company is open to admitting a mistake. That's just the way it is (but shouldn't be). Do as much as you can to solve the problem and recoup losses and then GET ON WITH THE TASK OF RIDING THAT BEAUTY! Now that you know the "notchy" feel and what is causing the carb to junk, add tank inspection to your list of "to do" things on a regular basis (as you noted the porcelain veneer fix may not be 100%). Isn't it a "beach" to find out that riding is more than actual skills, but begins to encompass an understanding of how the bike works?! This is often a blessing (when you're broke down on the side of the road, all these "lessons" help to ascertain the true nature of the problem) and a curse ('cause yes you actually have to take responsibility!). You'll never know the exact sequence of things for the crash, so keep piling your learning lessons in your brain -- that's the most you can do. Mama Wednesday, December 17 For Cathy who is wondering if an 1100 is too big to begin on: I hope Cathy starts with a smaller bike. Pavement is best viewed from a distance. I found the feeling of confidence that comes from practicing on a smaller bike translates well and it's worth the wait. Update on the Triumph peeling paint in the gas tank... apparently caused by additives in American gasoline. Sanding down to the steel just around the neck of the filler hole is the recommended treatment, so that's what I'm doing. The only caution is to keep the gas tank filled so the fumes prevent condensation and corrosion. Finally got a response from the Triumph rep. I'm looking forward to getting the bike back later this week. Thanks for the advice and encouragement. Sarah (note from Mama: wow, who would have thunk on the gas additive -- I guess we learned something! And I love your "adage" about where to view the pavement from -- how very appropriate!) |
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