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2004 (Jan to July)

Wednesday, January 7

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have got a Yamaha DT125 and I am fed up with it breaking on me all the time. I was wondering if you could send me some step by step information on fixing some of the most often problems for my bike like how to change the piston rings and gaskets and other things like that. I HOPE YOU CAN HELP ME BECAUSE IT IS REALLY GETING ON MY NERVES PLEASE HELP ME!! – Paul Mc

Dear Paul,
There's no way around it. A good repair/maintenance manual, specific to your model/year bike is essential and includes tool lists, basic procedures and complete tear down/rebuild info.

Look in my Reading Sources page for websites that carry these manuals -- a great place for FACTORY books is RepairManuals.com (I would have given you the exact page, but you didn't include the year -- and if you don't see it, there is an 800 number to call). Good luck and happy wrenching! – Mama

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Thursday, January 8

For Alex who was battling problems after installing a hypercharger kit:

I know she said she had a hesitation at cruising speeds but she also said that when she gives it gas it takes off. Where is the hesitation then -- through normal acceleration? I just don't know enough about her bike to help her out completely. If she is still running with her stock exhaust then she's running the bike to rich with these jets she may have it the best she will get it. She could easily test this by removing the baffles from the bike and moving the e-clip back to the 4th pin and running it then. This will lean the bike out and let the air flow better through the exhaust. If this proves true then she would be better off installing a aftermarket exhaust on it or drilling out her existing baffles.  – David (note from Mama: thanks for brainstorming some other approaches to this problem!)

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Thursday, January 8

Dear VTwin Mama,
I own a Ninja 250. The bike starts and runs but only with the constant application of choke and/ or throttle. The bike will not idle. The bike has not been ran for over a month. Is the problem simply stale gas that needs to be changed or the idle mixture needs to be adjusted? – Nikko

Dear Nikko,
Both the things you mention are possible causes, but I would definitely check the condition of your spark plugs. If they haven't been changed for awhile, they could have icky deposits on them that are not allowing a correct spark of the gas/air mixture. While you're at it, also look at the air filter and make sure it's cleaned up. My bet is that you'll find the problem may be there.  – Mama

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Thursday, January 8

Dear VTwin Mama,
How ya doin mama? I just recently bought a 12v battery tender plus charger). It say's I can leave it charged through out the winter cause it's a smart charger. Just wanted to know your take on the situation -- and should I take the cell caps off when charging. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. – Michael Meyerhoff

Dear Michael,
I'm doing just fine, thank you! Well, I'm not an expert, but I'm pretty sure you keep the caps on. I found a great web page that goes more into detail on these types of systems, and near the bottom, the site warns you about keeping an eye on the battery water level, which leads me to believe that it's a "caps on" type of deal.  – Mama

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Monday, January 12

From Sarah who continues to learn and work on her Bonnie bike:

Yes ma'am.  You know I want to get back on the Bonnie.

After a week of calling, I'm not surprised to find the customer service rep for Triumph America neither answers his phone nor his messages.  Admittedly, this high school English/yearbook teacher working 120% can't get to the phone too many times during bankers' hours.  I'm impatient to get the bike fixed and get back on, and they're probably counting on that.  An online search showed several people with the same problem, and only one got his warranty claim after three weeks.

I accept the challenge wholeheartedly...learning to understand the bike as a mechanical individual, looking forward instead of backward.  And I keep riding every chance I get.  The husband continues to shake his head in wonder.  Me, too.  I'm a Luddite...I don't even like hedge trimmers, but motorcycles have me fascinated. Cheers, – Sarah (note from Mama: way to stick with it! This is truly inspiration!)

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Monday, January 12

Dear VTwin Mama,
A woman I know was riding on the back of a 2002 V-Star Classic 1100 when the rear seat on which she was sitting broke loose and caused her to hit the pavement at 25 mph and sustain serious injury (thank god she was wearing a helmet). The bolt either was not properly tightened, or broke loose in some fashion. I need to know if you have ever heard of such a problem with this or a similar Yamaha model. Please help if you can. Thanks. – Ohio Rider

Dear Ohio Rider,
I have not heard of this before, but am posting your message so that if someone has heard of this, they can respond. You might want to visit one of the many discussion forums specific to VStar Classics -- but a definite call/visit to the local dealer is in order.  – Mama

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Monday, January 12

In response to basic long term storage procedures, but I'll be darned tooting rooting if I can find where I originally posted this list:

I'm not putting you down or being wise with you. I think it's great to see women ride. I wish my wife would. I just thought that maybe you could give some other ideas [to the basic procedures for long term storage].

I am 35 I have worked on bikes since I was 12. I have never had a bike that sat over the winter and not start in the spring for me. I have 3 Harley's as of right now -- a '64 Panhead, '80 Superglide and '03 Deuce. The Superglide I have had the longest and she has never let me down. My Pan is a little stubborn cause she's older and I have to kick her to wake her up, but after 5 kicks she fires from a winter slumber. I will expect my Deuce to be the best of the 3 cause she is the newest of the bunch.

Keep up the good work on the site. I have had my wife on the new '04 1200 Custom -- she liked the bike -- maybe I could get her to ride some day so I can buy it for her. Would really enjoy seeing her hit the road on my Panhead.

1. Change the oil, I will agree with.
2. Never drain a gas tank it should be stored full to prevent moisture from building up and rust forming if your going to store a bike for the winter fill it up and put some fuel stabilizer in it.
3. You could remove the battery but why not just put a battery tender on it. Battery tenders today don't charge constantly they charge when the battery calls for it. What's great about this is that you just install the positive and negative leads to your battery and leave them hooked up all the time. The other end of these wires have a plug that is a quick connect for the battery tender.
4. I'll agree with clean and dry it good. I would recommend waxing it to prevent any oxidation.
 5. You could park the bike on it's center stand if you like but most bikes don't have center stands anymore. What then?
 6. I will agree with covering it and allowing it to breath. – Dave D. (note from Mama: thanks for reviewing the list and adding your thoughts from the view of an experienced rider/mechanic. It all helps! And we look forward to hearing from wife as she explores riding her own bike!)

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Tuesday, January 13

Dear VTwin Mama,
I recently replaced the Derby cover on my 2001 Sportster 1200C and lost about 1/2 quart of transmission fluid. I am new to this bike and need to know where to fill the transmission fluid. – SMF

Dear SMF,
I cannot state strongly enough the need to get a repair/maintenance manual for your specific year/model/make bike -- especially to review and understand routine maintenance chores as well as troubleshooting tips and tool hints. Check my Reading Sources page for Internet sites that offer these for sale.

Meanwhile, I do not know your specific bike, so if someone reading this has the answer, please chime in!  – Mama

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Monday, January 19

More from Sarah who continues to learn and work on her Bonnie bike:

Alas, for a woman to get results it seems it's still necessary for The Husband to speak sternly to the service manager.  We finally picked up the Bonneville last week after an odyssey of carb problems.  The ignition coil had to be replaced.  Also, when they stripped the paint off the inside of the tank and flushed it, they didn't get it completely dry, so there was water in the gas.  Credit is due to the service manager... he made the mechanics retrace their steps until they found all the problems.  So, just as the weather is warming up a bit, I'm back on the Bonnie.  Now I know two ways to check the tank for sediment myself and recognize a coupla other problems, too. Thanks for all the support. – Sarah (note from Mama: It is a sad commentary on our times that women still have to seek "male" intervention to get satisfactory results when a problem occurs. I am glad however that Robert was able to finalize the necessary steps to get the Bonnie up and running better, although you still have to baby her to make sure all is well. Take heart sister . . . you are not alone!)

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Monday, January 19

For Nikko whose bike isn't idling all that well:

It sounds to me that you may have a picked up something in your main jet. You might be able to fix this by adding some carb & choke cleaner to the gas. There are several out there you could use. They are sold at your local auto parts store. I would drain the gas out of the tank that's in it now. I would then refill the tank about 3 quarters of the way with at least a 93 octane. Add your carb & choke cleaner. Then take the bike for a couple mile ride.

If you have to ride it on choke for a couple miles so be it. After that I would try to go to 1/2 choke for a couple miles. I would keep doing this till the bike ran off choke fully and idled fine. I would also run most of that fuel out of the tank then refill it with a high octane again (93 0r better) This is a way to cheat and not have to remove the carb from the bike but doesn't always work.

If you have to remove the carb then I would clean it with a gunk spray carb & choke cleaner. This is always simple do to location of carb sometimes. Sometimes the hardest part is getting it off the bike.but once it's removed you would remove screws from the bowl. after removing the bowl you'll notice the float and main jet. The float is removed by the pushing out the float pin. Don't lose the needle valve. The main jet can then be removed. Most of the jets on this small of a carb are 8mm but please check it don't trust me on that. Once the jet is removed you can now blow threw it with air in both direct to free any particles and clean any gummed up gas off it. All other jets can be removed by just counting the screw turns out so you know how to reset them when you put it back together. Good luck. I hope this helps. – David D. (note from Mama: I am greatly appreciative of you taking the time to outline some thoughts that will help us all diagnose such a problem in the future. Of course it helps!)

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Tuesday, January 27

For Mike who wants to use a Battery Tender to keep the battery charged:

Very good choice. This is a great item. Yes, you can leave the caps on the battery. As VTwin Mama said, just check the water level on the battery prior to putting it on charge. – David D. (note from Mama: sounds good to me!)

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Thursday, January 29

Dear VTwin Mama,
Now that I've kept the bike and gotten rid of the boyfriend (which is hard because he was my mechanic) - I need to tighten my belt. I've got a gorgeous little 2000 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 800 - which has been lowered, added risers to the handlebars, changed grips, floorboards, cold air box kit (whoa the power with that!! blow away the 1500) and rejetted twice, and lastly the noisy ugly greasy chain converted over to belt drive. The problem is I never watched him tighten up the belt....now I have to figure it out on my own. Can you recommend a website that may have instructions to do such? If I knew the type of kit he purchased I'd go to that website, but I'm SOL. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

PS - love the section for us 'vertically challenged women' as I'm almost 5 ft tall! – Diane Petty

Dear Diane,
Ok, the good news is you've got your priorities straight (keep the bike, axe the mechanic). Now it's time to do a little research!

My very first thought, depending on the weather conditions of where you live, is to ride that beasty of yours to the local dealer and have the service department take a quick look at the installed belt. Just tell 'em your "story" and I'm sure they'll give you the pointers you need (and identify the kit type that was installed).

On the Internet I found an 8 page FAQ for your bike for belt drive conversions from ScootWorks that may help you: http://www.earthwebworks.com/scootworks/docs/belt_800_faq.pdf
It's an Adobe Acrobat PDF file, so you'll need that that program to see the file 'cause the HTML version is always a bit messy. Still, very much worth the effort so you can read up on important issues! Good luck! – Mama

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Wednesday, February 4

Dear VTwin Mama,
Hi. I got inquiry about how to make my bike have a backfire from the exhaust or spitfire. What I have is Hayabusa 2002 with straight open mufflers without filters inside. It's not street legal. How is it possible to do that? – Thani

Dear Thani,
Whenever you hear a bike backfire, it's because the bike is not running well and usually is caused by a poor gas to air mixture that lets unburned gas enter the exhaust system -- and you get a backfire. I highly doubt that you wish to tune your bike in such a way as it damages the bike through poor performance. If you are interested in a different sounding exhaust, your best bet is to visit a local bike dealer and explore the many options of custom pipes that are available -- some that have more of a rumble when you hit the throttle, for example, or provide more of a crackling sound when the throttle is quickly opened. This would be the smarter choice. – Mama

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Monday, February 9

Dear VTwin Mama,
Hey a friend recommended this site for me. I have a Yamaha Route 66 250 VTwin. It has a 2002 Virago front fork and Harley fenders with a fat bob tank. It is a great bike and I love it. The only thing is I do have back problems and can't ride for long distances -- the seat I think could be improved to be more comfortable. What do you think? Also I just had to brag, of course, it is my first bike and I love it. – Diane

Dear Diane,
Bragging rights are highly acceptable at this site! And congrats on getting your first bike and looking for solutions to make it even better.

While a new seat may indeed be the solution to your problem, given your back problem, I would look a little deeper into your overall body position when you're on the bike. What do I mean (well, I'm sure I have some sort of clue!)?

If you were to sit in a chair (perhaps at your kitchen table), and mimic "the bike," what would be the most comfortable position of your back, arm and legs? Now, go to the bike, take the same position and evaluate everything. Are you reaching slightly to the hand controls? Is the seat too wide, thus forcing your legs out that causes your back to compensate? Are these ok, except you could use some support right at the small of your back, or perhaps you need to remove the brunt of the air impact on your body when traveling at 60-75mph on longer rides? Perhaps your legs are being forced into a position that is tiring your back.

With these added insights you are in better position (!) to determine your solution set. Pullback risers would bring the handlebar closer to you so that you're not bent over to reach them. A narrower seat might offer more comfort. Or, look into a sissy bar with sliding backrest that you could position to support your entire body. In addition, you might want to consider adding a windshield (if you don't already have one) to "flow" the air away from your body (I find the air hitting my body on longer trips to be quite tiring). I find a windshield also removes the air force from my neck and shoulders (the added weight of a helmet can really impact the back). Leg position (and the impact on your back) may be helped by adding highway pegs so that you can change leg (and therefore back) positions during the course of a longer ride so that you're not fixed into one position the whole time.

Once you've look closer at all these impact points, then it's time to visit your local dealer and discover solutions available for your model bike.

I'll also add this. I've met many women riders who are able to ride long distances with nary an impact on their physical stamina. I'm not one of them! I have determined that I need to stop every 100 miles (no matter what the gas gauge says!) and take a break. It's both mental and physical. Never be afraid to determine your boundaries and ride accordingly. It's the mark of a smart VTwin Mama sister! – Mama

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Monday, February 9

Dear VTwin Mama,
I need help finding an igniter box for a 1989 Yamaha Virago XV1100. If you can help me, please email me. – Wally

Dear Wally,
The closest thing I could find to help you was a posting on a message board at the Virgo Owner's Club on Yahoo. It suggests that parts for one size/model Yamaha Virago are interchangeable with other models/cc sizes. This tells me that a quick check with the local dealer's Service Department may reveal a solution. If not, post a message on this board and you may find your vendor solution! – Mama

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Friday, February 20

Dear VTwin Mama,
Hi all, I finally got my bike [Dyna Wide Glide] home after new seat, pullback risers and power clutch. The weather has been horrible here and I can't get out to get acquainted with my "new to me bike" but I can't wait -- the clutch sure does work better and I am still a little off ground with heels but it seems better -- now for Spring!!!  I hope!!!!! This bike is a lot bigger and more powerful than anything I have ridden before!!! It will take a while to build up confidence but I will keep trying.  Now I have a V-twin!!!! – Joan in VA, the Granny Lady

Dear Joan (you old granny and VTwin Mama sister!),
I am soooo excited for you! Solutions that make the riding experience better are just begging for Spring -- phooey on that ol' groundhog and her (!) shadow! Yes, confidence in riding a bigger and more powerful bike does come in steps, so make sure that you set small, manageable goals to ease your way. I'm proud of you already!– Mama

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Thursday, February 26

Dear VTwin Mama,
I purchased a set of slash pipes for my '82 Virago 750. Will I need to re-jet the carbs? If so, do they sell the jets or is there some trick for it? – Dave in Portland, OR

Dear Dave,
The old adage "for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction" holds very true when changing out exhaust pipes, no matter if they are slashed at the end or not!

The fact is that if the new pipes constrict the flow of the burnt air/gas mix that fires the bike to move, then changes usually have to made elsewhere to compensate. Here's a paragraph I found on the Internet: "By properly re-jetting the carburetor and adding a free flowing air cleaner to an engine with drag pipes, the maximum horsepower produced will improve over the stock engine. But there is a difference between usable power and maximum horsepower. The maximum horsepower of two engines may be similar, but the horsepower torque curves may be different. The area under the horsepower and torque curves defines the "power" the engine produces. The more area that is under the curve, the better the power."

This suggests to me that you might do well to invest a few dollars to bring your bike to a local dealer that offers an equipment system that can rev up your machine (with the new pipes) and analyze the performance of the engine with the new exhaust system. In this way, the whole carb/air system can be monitored and changes made accordingly.

Most sites I visited said the same thing -- if you make this change, beware the consequences to engine wear and performance. This is NOT the time to skimp on getting things right! If you're guessing, then the engine life will suffer.

While I'm all for the "do it yourself" school of motorcycle maintenance and upgrades, I am also very aware that there are some things which are beyond my scope, and if they are slightly beyond yours, seek assistance from qualified professionals. 

You mentioned that you surfed the 'net for Virago tech support. Did you run across the Virago Owner's Club? They may have some insights for you if you haven't already tried this site. They have a "Ask Our Tech" link which will lead you to this email address: drpiston@sbcglobal.net. My guess is this person may prove to have more specific answers for you. Good luck! – Mama

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Thursday, March 4

Hi Mama,
I just purchased a 01' Rebel and I am needing a little more on top end. When I am in any kind of head wind the bike only wants to do about 65-70 mph. Will rejetting the carb or pipes or both do the trick? If so ,where can I purchase the jets and what sizes do I need to ask for? Which pipes sound and work better -- Jardien or Jacks? – Keri

Dear Keri,
Jamming a Rebel on the highway -- what fun! While I use to say that a 250cc bike couldn't do highway time, I've heard from enough riders on these bikes to know that it can work.

Still, the fact is that this is a lightweight bike that's going to get its tail kicked by the wind. But what to do technically, if anything?! I don't have the answers, but there's a Honda Rebel site that is run by a guy that knows everything about them. Just surf to the bottom of the page to find the phone number in Florida and an email address. I'd be asking the "guru" on this subject! – Mama

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Wednesday, March 10

Dear VTwin Mama,
How do we stop an 800 from sneezing & backfiring? – No Name

Dear No Name,
The remedy is cough syrup for bikes -- aka -- a TUNE-UP!

Start by checking the spark plugs. They may be gunked, old, or mis-gapped or all of the above! Also, pull the carb's air filter and clean and/or replace. Bad airflow is a good formula for what you're describing. Also check that the bolts that secure the exhaust pipe(s) are tight. May even need new gaskets here. Check your gas filter for crud build-up. If the bike is older, you may need to adjust the point gap and timing. 

TIME TO GET A MAINTENANCE MANUAL! Check my Reading Sources page for sites that offer manuals or visit your local dealer. But get one! Your bike will thank you!  – Mama

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Wednesday, March 17

Dear VTwin Mama,
G'day. Look, I'm chasing a wiring diagram/schematic for a little Virago 250. It has an annoying intermittent charging problems that's really giving me the shits. Can you help me or point me in the right direction? – Manx Merralls

Dear Manx,
To this day I have never had success finding schematics on the Internet. My standard advice is that you need to order a maintenance manual for the year/make/model bike you seek to work on. Not sure what your opportunities for getting such a manual for a Virago are down under, but if all else fails, check my Reading Sources page for Internet sites that offer these (and hopefully one or two will ship internationally -- like Amazon.com). – Mama

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Wednesday, March 17

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have a 1986 Honda Rebel 450 and I need the electronic diagram but I can't find the book. – Esperanza Trejo Ramirez

Dear Esperanza,
I found your manual at an Internet site named Repair Manuals. Here is the specific page for your year/make/model bike: http://www.repairmanuals.com/motorcycles/1986/27/4/489 – Mama

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Monday, March 22

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have a Harley Softail Deuce and would very much like to put a solo seat on her. I am having some trouble figuring which ones would be comfortable, and if solo seats are even comfortable at all. I am looking for that low and lean look, but if it is going to kill my back I'll pass. Any thoughts on selection? – Rebecca

Dear Rebecca,
I must admit that we've had very little discussion about seats at this site, other than the repeated message from women who are finding that Corbin Seats seem to fit the bill in many instances, including shorter women who need to lower their seating height in order to feel more in control (no tippy toes).

Seat selection and comfort are highly individual choices. And I tried to find a discussion board or article on the subject and came up with nill. Other than if your seat isn't working, you can get gel pads to make things more comfy. And if the new seat puts your body in a new position it doesn't like as well, but you like the seat, you could change out the handlebars or get a pullback riser.

Geez, I'm not really making much progress here. My only other suggestion is to go to a specific Harley Softail Deuce discussion forum to talk with riders of your make/model bike. HELP readers!  – Mama

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Thursday, March 25

For Rebecca who is looking for a new seat for her Deuce:

My roommate has an '04 Deuce with a Corbin Gunfighter seat on it. It's a great looking seat, makes the bike look really custom. He swears it is the most comfortable seat he's had, and he has a bad back, so it must be good. I recently put a Corbin solo on my Sportster, and can attest to their quality and comfort. – Li in Florida (note from Mama: the Corbin Gunfighter has been mentioned many times as an excellent seat and sounds like its worth checking out!)

First I would like to say great choice in the ride, The Deuce is one of my rides also.  As VTwin Mama said, look into Corbin saddles. They have a great solo seat, I would look on eBay  I have seen many listed on there in great condition and half the price as new. I would love to go with the solo seat but I ride two up still. I could do it but then when I brought my wife I would have to ride one of the older bikes she hates the Panhead and the Shovelhead is too stiff  (need to get her on her own bike). 

What is cool about the Deuce is that they make a filler for the solo seat that is colored for your bike -- it goes from the front mounting hole to the rear mounting hole to hide all the holes in the fender for the sissy bar mount. I have a picture on my computer of a Deuce with a Corbin solo if you like I can send it to ya. As always ride safe and ride often.. – David (note from Mama: thanks for the added note that checking eBay may result in a good seat but at a reduced cost -- changing things on bikes can get pricey!)

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Monday, March 29

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have a Honda Shadow 750 Spirit and would like to change out the pipes. Has anyone on this site done this? I have decided on the Vance & Hines but they make two models for my bike, cruizers & straight shots. That is where I can't decide. Just wondering if you know the pros and cons regarding either straight shots or cruizers and if you have changed the exhaust on your bike? Love reading this site because of your knowledge of bikes and riding and the fact that if you don't know the answer you always seem to know where to go to get it. So glad I found this site! Thanks. – Deb

Dear Deb,
Glad you are enjoying this site and acknowledging that my thoughts and suggestions are often times imbedded with other sites to check (as well as the many responses posted by readers who do have a clue!).

Now, on to your question. For general knowledge on exhaust pipe terminology, check out this article on the J&P Cycle Tech site. Then I went to the Vance & Hines site and under the Metric section, clicked on both models and played the audio. The Cruzer style sounded "throatier" to me, but why don't you have a listen?! I personally liked the cleaner lines on the Straight Shots, but that's just me!

Since both are made for your exact year/model/make bike, it's a matter of preference. You should just have to unbolt at the top and at the bottom mounting brackets. If the new pipes need new mounting configurations, then that hardware is usually included, but don't forget to get new gaskets for the top. – Mama

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Tuesday, March 30

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have a 2002 Honda Shadow Spirit 750. For some reason the 15 amp fuses keep blowing. No pattern sometimes -- it take weeks, sometimes in a day or two. – Ray

Dear Ray,
Weird. What does your local dealer's service department have to say? Did you add anything to the bike right before the fuse blows that might be drawing extra? Readers, any thoughts? – Mama

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Tuesday, March 30

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have a 2003 VStar 650.  I didn’t keep the battery charged this past winter  (bad me).  I got my manual out and read about the battery.  It says that I can’t use a regular battery charger and must take it in to the Yamaha dealership for them to charge it.  I did that, but it is a long way to a dealership from me.  Have you ever heard of this and do you think a regular battery charger will hurt the battery?  Thank you for your help. – Lou Ann

Dear Lou Ann,
Now that's a new one on me. There doesn't seem to be any reason why you can't place your trickle charger leads right to the battery. Have you called the dealer to confirm what the manual said? Anyone heard this before? – Mama

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Thursday, April 1

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have a '73 Harley Sportster, right hand shift. Couple weeks ago I noticed a bit of a miss while riding. I purchased 2 new plugs, a point and condenser set from the local Harley dealer and installed them. Points gapped at about .019 and plugs at .038. Ran fine for 15 minutes or so and then a bad miss. I have checked the gaps, all are still the same. What I have noticed is that the rear cylinder is just barely firing. I can place my hand over the exhaust and it's cool even after running for 10 minutes. The head feels cool also.

I switched the plug wires around thinking it might be a wire, and even switched the wires from the coil to opposite cylinders, but still the rear cylinder is cool along with the rear pipe.  If I remove the rear wire while the engine is running there is a big difference, and the motor misses even more. Seems to be it must be firing at least some. Even went back and installed one of the old plugs on the rear cylinder, but no difference. Any clue as to what might be causing this? – Mark

Dear Mark,
Well, I'm not highly technical, but having a '76 Shovelhead, I feel your frustration! I'm especially drawn to your comment that after changing the plugs and point/condenser, the bike ran fine for a bit. When you pulled the plugs, was there are a high smell of gas and a wet sheen on the plugs? This indicates that the fuel/air mixture to the plugs is too rich and could be the result of a clogged carb air filter or the carb needs to be readjusted (or some carb cleaner run through the gas to clean it out).

Since I'm a great believer in the KISS principle, I'd start with these checks and then go from there. Also, and again from experience, the timing could have slipped, affecting the firing of the cylinders -- but this takes more equipment to do right (check and adjust) and may be something to have the dealer do. – Mama

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Friday, April 2

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have fibramyalsia, osteo arthritis, etc. and had to give up riding for a few years.  I have recently purchased a 650 Savage (in the fall) and rode a few times before winter set it. this is the bike I think I told you about in the fall having only 69 kms on an '89 Savage - deep maroon in color - what a beauty and low to the ground - I think I'm in love - NO - I know I am in love and can't wait for warmer weather - north of the border.

I have been searching for a solution for something to rest my back against when riding.  I came across a few things but they are so expensive and of course in U.S. currency so that is out.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated especially if home made. Thanks. – SE Wright

Dear SE Wright,
Ok, cheap solutions for the back. Bungee cord a big, heavy duty sleeping bag into place behind your back. Or, read this posting about one rider who wears a corset to give her the support she needs on long hauls. Readers, any other ideas? – Mama

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Saturday, April 3

From and for Lou Ann who wondered why her VStar manual told her that battery charging HAD to be done at the dealer:

Yes, the dealer confirmed this and I took the battery to the dealer.  But, I just can't understand why in the world this must be done.  Thanks for posting it -- we will see what others say.  Have a good day.  – Lou Ann (note from Mama: well, I just got off the phone with my local dealer and Mike in service had never heard of this! He thought it was simply something written so that inexperienced riders wouldn't goof up, and of course, generates income for the dealer. But, he noted, that his shop is so swamped that if someone called him to charge their battery, he'd beg them to do it themselves with a trickle charger! )

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Sunday, April 4

For Ray whose bike is blowing fuses some of the time:

This is VTwin Mama herself talking! I just got off the phone with my Dad who is a retired electrician. He suspects an intermittent short somewhere in the wiring. Given the vibration of the bike and that the wires usually run up into and behind the headlight, look for a wire that has either been rubbed or been burned bare at a spot somewhere up front where you're turning the handlebar.

So, sometimes when you're riding, the exposed portion of wire is hitting metal and shorting and blowing the fuse, and other times its not! The only other thing he can think of is that possibly you (accidentally) replaced the fuse with 1.5 instead of a 15 (an easy enough mistake to make according to him) and that's why the 10 amp is working, 'cause a 1.5 couldn't possibly handle the load. – From VTwin Mama's Dad!

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Monday, April 5

Dear VTwin Mama,
We have a '96 Savage 650 big one that has been setting for about 6 yrs, unstarted, untouched. We have put in a new spark plug, checked the fuel line, drained the fuel tank, hell, we even talked to it nicely. We are out of ideas and not moto mechanics. We think it might the the carb but don't know how to get it off or really even where it is, except under the gas tank. Do you have any suggestions??? – Steve

Dear Steve,
Talking nicely to the bike is a good touch, but I'm afraid it's going to take a little bit more than that! It's time for all mechanically challenged people to pony up a few bucks and get the maintenance manual for their year/make/model bike. It just takes the guesswork out of everything. Visit your local dealer or check my Reading Sources page for Internet sites that offer these for as little as $20.

If the bike is trying to turn over, but just won't "catch," there's a good chance that the carb is gunked up from sitting so long (congealed inerds) and this takes specific directions to pull it off and apart to clean. And are you sure you checked the gapping on the spark plug -- 'cause if not, the bike isn't going to start no matter what you're doing. The main oil supply may be so "stuck together" that I suppose it's possible that it doesn't know what you think you're doing!

Quite frankly, I'd visit the local dealer and have a heart-to-heart with the service manager or tech. Six years and sitting is a long time and I'm sure that they'll point out the most likely culprit things to check, drain, or replace. That's after they shake their heads a few times and chuckle to themselves, but don't let that put you off -- what the heck, carry on and get the bike running. Good luck! – Mama

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Wednesday, April 7

Dear VTwin Mama,
I recently purchased a 1989 Yamaha Route 66 with 5769 miles on it. I attempted to change the oil and ran into a problem. The drain plug which is actually a cap plug is not removable due to the motorcycle frame covering 1/8 of the plug. I tried using a pump to remove the oil, but with no success. Any ideas on how to change the oil myself? Thanks for any information. – Mike Walker

Dear Mike,
Given that you wrote this letter to me a week and a half ago, my guess is you've already found the specific technique and solution. Still, I'm posting this message as yet another reminder that a maintenance manual is a handy thing to have! It outlines and details so many wonderful things, with troubleshooting guides and useful tools to have, as well as maintenance schedules, spark plug gapping and then more intensive overhaul techniques. You really can't go wrong for a basic manual (usually $20) or the factory book (usually around $60). Check my Reading Sources page for Internet sites that offer manuals or visit your local dealer. The investment saves a ton of time on questions just like these! – Mama

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Thursday, April 8

For Lou Ann who wondered why her VStar manual told her that battery charging HAD to be done at the dealer:

Just wondering if the problem with the battery charger is the type of battery. My sis has a 2002 VStar 650 and she has a special battery. I believe it was called a "gel" battery. They just purchased a new one, (kind of expensive) but there was no acid or water to be added and she didn't have to charge it before putting on the bike. Away she went! – Michele Stoneking (note from Mama: I did a bit of Internet research on the gel battery -- and found that you can charge a gel, but need a special trickle charger or battery tender designed for gels. So that's not it! )

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Monday, April 19

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have a 1400 Intruder. The clutch was slipping a bit while in 4th gear and giving it some stick. I opened her up and inspected the plates etc. I though that the previous owner/s might have put some additive in that would cause the slippage. I have installed new clutch plates and friction plates but the slipping is worse than the original setup. I have the correct oil in as well. – Roy

Dear Roy,
Ick. I remember opening that very same section on my '76 Harley and very tentatively inspecting the plates. I do remember reading in my maintenance manual about the precision necessary to retighten the bolts holding that all together, but what could be going wrong with yours is a bit out of my scope of knowledge. I would suggest going to the Internet and finding a specific Intruder 1400 site that has a discussion forum or, gulp, calling the local dealer's service department and having a heart-to-heart chat. – Mama

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Tuesday, April 20

Dear VTwin Mama,
Hi there -- I have a VT-750 shadow 1999 -- starts fine, run ok, but it backfires when changing down the gears. It's an import from the USA, classic edition. Can you help please? I was wondering if the plugs need to be changed for a colder climate here in the UK. – Wayne

Dear Wayne,
Backfiring is typically symptomatic of a bike that needs a little maintenance! Definitely check the plugs for fouling or icky deposits and then just change them out -- ask the dealer for the recommended plugs and gap (even if they are pre-gapped, check them any way!). I've never heard of spark plugs for colder climates as many parts of the USA are equivalent to the UK (and as a previous Wisconsin rider, I don't remember this ever being a factor). Also, check your air filter to the carburetor 'cause if it's dirty and clogged, it's not letting the right air mixture to the carb to mix with the gas. And don't stint on cheap gas -- put the best octane level you can find in the bike!

These are my beginning thoughts, but would add that if possible, get a copy of the maintenance manual for your year/make/model bike so you have a handy reference to all things "bike" related -- truly useful and a must have! Check my Reading Sources page for Internet sites that offer these, or does the UK have a version of Amazon.com (the big book store) -- they carry lots of manuals. – Mama

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Wednesday, April 21

Dear VTwin Mama,
Should I put an oil cooler on my Sportster since it's air cool if I'm doing a lot of touring? Thanks. – Ron

Dear Ron,
I must admit that I don't have a real technical opinion on this -- my gut instinct is that bikes take their biggest beating "heat-wise" when they are forced to stop and start too much or idle in heavy traffic, especially in the hotter weather. If you feel that your touring is going to have a component of this (think traffic jams on roads and highways due to construction), then this wouldn't be a bad addition! Readers, any other thoughts? – Mama

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Thursday, April 22

Dear VTwin Mama,
How can I tell if my brand new Honda CR85 is running too rich? There is always a lot of oil coming out of my pipe. What does this mean? – Jesse from New York

Dear Jesse,
This means that you need to immediately head back to the dealer and ask them what's up with oil coming out of your pipe, because I can tell you, this isn't right, but I am not technically savvy enough to expand on the thought (i.e., point you in the right direction on things to check). – Mama

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Tuesday, April 27

Dear VTwin Mama,
My Virago burns spark plugs, sometimes daily. What's causing them to foul so fast? – Rob in China

Dear Rob,
By burning, I'm assuming you actually mean fouling. Typically, too much gas is entering the carburetor, whose job it is to mix the proper amount of gas and air to create the perfect spark. Check the carb's air filter for clogging (better yet, just replace it if you haven't done so in many moons), but ultimately you may need to adjust the carb. This requires a maintenance manual (or some faith in tweaking the couple of adjustment screws: one is for the idle speed, the other adjusts the rich/lean mixture). – Mama

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Wednesday, April 28

Dear VTwin Mama,
I've had a 2000 VStar 650 Custom for 3 years. It's got 15,000 miles. My mechanic just told me I need to replace my Piston Pins, which requires him to split the engine. His option was spend $2,000, for parts and labor, or try to replace the engine with a used one. Does this sound right, or am I getting ripped off? – MissMax

Dear MissMax,
Hmmmm . . . I guess it boils down to this: what brought you in to the mechanic in the first place (poor performance as compared to previous years?) and how did he determine that this was the fix (high tech performance test?).

In basic terms, a piston goes through the intake, compression, combustion and exhaust strokes every two revolutions of the crankshaft, and the piston pins connect the pistons to the crankshaft. So this is pretty important stuff (and even requires a very special tool so that the pistons aren't damaged in the process as they are manufactured to very exacting standards).

I would have a heart-to-heart conversation with the mechanic for a detailed explanation of what is happening or happened. Any "jargon" that requires several takes to get the explanation is in order. Have him draw it out if necessary. Then, a breakdown of labor hours and parts is a must.

The next step would be to explore the cost of a used system (which parts, what kind of warranties and guarantees on parts and workmanship, etc.). A second opinion from the local dealer (if the mechanic is not affiliated) or seeking out an independent mechanic may be worth your time.

You may wish to seek out a discussion forum on the Internet specific to your make/model to see if this is a normal/abnormal occurrence at your stated mileage. – Mama

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Wednesday, April 28

Dear VTwin Mama,
I've been motorcycling since '99 but only today discovered your website. I guess I have two questions: First, is there a directory out there of women-friendly bike mechanics? I've been treated SO badly locally and I hate finding guys willing to talk on the phone with a mechanic on my behalf, not because the guy knows bikes but because his voice is regarded with more respect and he gets less of a run-around. One local "reputable" dealership shop dropped my bike off the lift and charged me $400 more than verbal quote and took 6 weeks to complete only half of the work. I had asked for a written estimate and they presented the paperwork with SOME OTHER PERSON'S SIGNATURE on the line waiving my right to a written estimate. In the end I was out way too much money, all of the reflectors and light bulbs were broken down the right side of my bike and there was a giant dent in the tail pipe.

March 2003 recently my Kawasaki Eliminator 600 (1996) developed a flat back tire. As a single woman, I had a male friend who offered to assist-- gave up on his help after 4 weeks of not coming through. After 3 more months I finally found someone willing to trailer the bike (now the 4 carbs were gunked) to another shop. At this shop, the oil was changed, new batter installed, tire patched and carbs. gas-bathed (July 2003). When I got the bike back it was no longer the quiet "stealth bike" I loved but sounded more like a gigantic lawn mower. I questioned it and was informed he deliberately tuned it rich to "blow out" the carbs further. He said he'd adjust it back at my next oil change. A month later, he closed down his shop (rumor has it, the owner's working in a local lumber yard now).

One time I succeeded in locating him and he agreed to meet with me on the upcoming Saturday to fix the situation- he was a no-show. I've since called him and he does not answer nor return my calls. In October, while idling in 1st gear after starting up the bike in my driveway, without giving it any gas, suddenly the RPMs redlined around 9000 and I found myself shooting like a rocked towards my closed front gate. The clutch failed, but the front break worked perfectly catapulting me over the handlebars and about 8 feet away from the bike. It did a job on my boots, jeans, gloves, jacket, and full-face helmet, but thankfully, I was not injured.

Now here we are in 2004 and in March I finally again succeeded in finding someone willing to help me trailer it to another shop in a nearby town. The estimate came back: $690 JUST TO REDO THE CARBS, with a known $200 in other parts the carbs need not quoted on and no estimate for the repairs of the crash damage (smashed front consoles, bent handle bars, sheered off stop bolt...). The serviceman told me that the extensive work needed was because the last one to work on the carbs had no clue how to properly reassemble them. He also said the sudden launch was a direct result of the improperly assembled carbs. He added that an oil change was also included in the price as there was a lot of gas in the oil.

I don't have the funds for these repairs, but also don't think I really should be the one paying for them. I hate the notion of involving a lawyer and no wonder, "is this new shop being straight with me as no one else has been?" Come to think of it, a third question: is there a resource for women to get together and learn how to work on their own bikes? – No Name

Dear No Name,
You certainly have had a nose full of disgraceful dealings by mechanics and shops and I understand how difficult it is to decide if someone is being straight with you at this juncture.

My first suggestion is this: stop being an under-educated woman about your own bike! It's time to get a couple of books and learn how a bike works, from the engine to the carbs, to the electrical, etc. No, you do not have to become a full-fledged mechanic, but understanding basic terms, internal workings and the like will be very much to your advantage in the future. Scroll down my Reading Sources page to the book section and you'll see a recommended book by Haynes on this. At the same time, pick up a maintenance manual that is specific to your year/make/model bike so you have a clue. There is simply no excuse for continuing to be at the mercy of others when a little bit of homework will put you "in the know."

Next, I would suggest you contact local women's riding groups in your area -- the major organizations are listed on my Cool Links page. This will give you a group to kanoodle with and you'll find out all sorts of interesting things, the least of which may be which mechanics are considered honest and dependable in your area. In some cases, groups have arranged with local dealers shops to host a one day basic course on taking care of their bikes. An Internet search may reveal that a course is available in your area as well -- often times offered in the evenings or weekends over a stretch of time.

Way back in the past, I did attempt to put together a list of women mechanics, but it resulted in only one submission, so this didn't work out to well and I've yet to find a source that lists women mechanics across the country.

Now, get out there and make it happen for yourself. Riding a motorcycle is a life time learning experience and you've got every reason to go for it! – Mama

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Thursday, April 29

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have a 2000 V Star Classic 650 and it has sat up for about two years. I've had the carburetors cleaned but now the bike has no power -- do you have any suggestions? What can I do next? – Roschelle Brazier

Dear Roschelle,
Seek out the 411 and 911 of biking information -- aka, the maintenance manual for your year/make/model bike. Check my Reading Sources page for Internet sites that offer these. It offers serious troubleshooting information.

While my gut tells me that there's more to do (new spark plugs, tightening of exhaust pipe bolts, fuel filter cleaning, throttle adjustment check, and the like), it depends on how the power is bogging down. My suggestion is to take it to the dealer and have a service department mechanic ride it in the parking lot -- my guess is that they'll have a really good idea of what's going on (and this is free assessment, but try to go when the dealer isn't hopping nuts with customers!) – Mama

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Thursday, April 29

Hi VTwin Mama and friends,
First let me join the crowd and say, I LOVE your website. This is EXACTLY what us newbie riders need to build our confidence when we start riding. I have been reading it ever since I came across it. Thank you so much!

I'm relatively new to riding just got my bike this season (used 2000 Zuk Bandit 600, technically not VTwin) :-D I had my first ride Thursday when it was 59 degrees in Chicago. Yup, it was cold, but gosh darn it, I'm not going to let the stinking weather stop me on my FIRST RIDE!!!! I took the MSF class in the winter (in FL, NOT Chicago, ha ha!) HIGHLY suggest the MSF class. It teaches you a lot on safety and also gets you really comfortable with a motorcycle. And before the class I had NEVER been on a motorcycle, so I was a little nervous about getting on one. Also for those of us that are a little apprehensive about motorcycles, I suggest taking the class with a couple of friends. Even if you decide not to ride, it's definitely some fun bonding time in a safe controlled environment. If I hadn't gone with my sis and brother, I might not have been so keen on getting my bike when I was through with it (Also VTwin Mama site helped too).

I wanted to give some tips to some of the shorter sisters out there (I'm one of them. Stand 5'3" 120 lbs). My Bandit comes stock height ad 30.5" or something around there. I actually couldn't ride my bike when I first got it because was too high; I got it lowered. If you're thinking of starting on a larger bike, you have to remember, those bikes are REALLY heavy so it helps for them to be lowered enough. The weight doesn't become much of a problem most of the time, but remember to get your bike lowered so you're FLAT FOOTED on the ground. Parking gets to be a P-A-I-N if you aren't. I had mine lowered and I was flat footed but then asked them to pick it up an inch because was worried the bike would bottom out if I hit a bump, or took my sis on the back. Now I wish I didn't. I'm just a touch tip toed, and it's hard to push that bike back into a space. But what a work out on the legs, so maybe it's a good thing?

And one last tidbit and question. My first ride was Thursday, right? Well, came home really late, decided to just park my bike on the street in front of my apartment. I get up to go to work the next day and look out to admire my happy black Bandit and... some yellow rat bastard bumped my bike over! PAIN! ANGUISH! Broke the turn signals and scuffed up the fairings and engine. SNIFF!!!! 

Any suggestions on where to get some parts and stuff? Also some general questions about doing work like replacing the signals (I want to do it myself) Can I just buy any turn signal or is it specific to my bike? Intuitively, it seems like they shouldn't be dependent on my bike. I found this nice site for adding on flush mounted turn signals), so was thinking of putting those on since mine got busted. Also was thinking of getting frame sliders. I looked some of them up, but had a couple of questions. What's a swing arm slider? And are most sliders only installed around the engine area? (Now I'm really happy I got a nekkid bike because now I don't have to drill holes in side/engine fairings because I don't have any. Yay!) Thanks in advance, and HAPPY RIDING to all us new and experienced VTwin friends. Cheers, – Lisa

Dear Lisa,
Yahoo -- you like my site! Now, if only I actually knew what I was talking about! Ok, only kidding, but the fact is that when I go wrong, there's lot of readers to set me straight! Did you know that originally when I started this site, the byline (instead of it it being the current "VTwin Mama is here to provide a forum for insight") read "VTwin Mama is here to set someone straight" !!!!!! Go figure. PAIN! ANGUISH! Then I grabbed a clue!

So, you lowered the bike and then upped it again. If you don't want to go through that pain again, consider shaving some padding out of the seat or add a little height to your legs by adding some heel to your riding boots (a little goes a LONG way!).

Even tippy toe on a bike is doable -- pre-judge your parking accordingly. Slight slant down, do a Y-turn in front of the spot and back it in, slight slant up, just ride it on in! That way you can ride it out or let gravity do the work to help you on your way again! Just park it at the angle that everyone else is parking and it doesn't matter if you're parking with the tail end in or out! Anybody gives you grief, just tell them to beef to me!

As to the rat puke who damaged your beloved bike, this stuff happens! So, no more sniffles -- get on with it! Signals have a bolt that slides into the slot and are held in place with a nut and requires a simple adjustable wrench (or specific size and it's always useful to have the basic tools at hand -- a quick trip to any hardware store will result in a nice metric/US set of wrenches for very little mula). Parts can either be obtained from your local dealer (not a bad way to go on your first foray into fixing things), but then, check the Internet by search engine for sites that offer parts for your make/model (good pricing check, but figure in shipping costs).

I'm not so clear on the swing arm slider thingy or frame slider for that fact. Readers . . .HELP! The only swing arm I know about is how the rear wheel attaches to the main frame that allows shocks to let the rear end ride with some give (so your rear end doesn't take the road jolts so hard!). Sigh. So much to learn yet! – Mama

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Monday, May 3

Dear VTwin Mama,
I hope you are having some good weather there. Oklahoma is beautiful today. Do you know if there are any downsides or risks to putting a hyper-charger on? Especially if you only want one because they look cool, and don't even need it for increased performance? – dij

Dear dij,
From what I read on the Internet, installation is not tricky, but must be followed to the letter, and then you still might need to ask a follow-up question from the tech people at the manufacturer. So get a brand name! Other reviews indicate that while hyperchargers offer increased Hp performance, it may not be as much as you thought without redoing the fuel management system and exhaust pipes as well. – Mama

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Monday, May 3

Dear VTwin Mama,
Thank you so much for taking the time to read through my motorcycle lament (Kawasaki Eliminator 600 and carburetor/mechanic grief). I have since located a fellow who is willing to be bribed with a few nice home cooked meals into teaching me how to work on my bike. Trouble in the past has been that there is no specific service manual for this bike.... it's engine was "borrowed" from the Kawasaki Ninja series and so the closest reference is one of the Ninja manuals which I own. To look at the diagrams and then at the bike, components are in completely different locations. 

Compound that with the fact that the men around me preferred to see my bike out of commission because "it's just wrong for a woman to drive a motorcycle" and finding assistance has been a rare blessing. (I will check if there's a women's motorcycle group in the area too!) Thanks again for a listening ear and some very practical suggestions. : ) – Brenda Somes

Dear Brenda,
Well, if I didn't listen, I wouldn't be a very good VTwin Mama, now would I?! So, is your bike officially the 1996 ZL600-B2 Eliminator? Cause if it is, then you need to hop on to the Repair Manuals site, where they have it (in two parts). Otherwise, they would be an excellent resource to call and ask more about your bike. But, glad you found someone to help -- make sure to take good notes!

As to the men around you who prefer your bike out of commission -- it's time to jettison them. Yuck. Who would do that to another human being? Dreams are difficult enough without useless noise buzzing around our heads! – Mama

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Monday, May 3

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have a VStar 1100 Yamaha. I need to know how much oil it takes in the crank case and the lub in the rear end. – r.d. mcfarland

Dear r.d.,
These details are best found in the service/maintenance manual that EVERY rider should have for their specific year/make/model bike. I have never found this type of stuff readily available on the Internet -- so check my Reading Sources page for Internet sites that offer manuals -- or visit the local dealer and get one! – Mama

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Tuesday, May 4

Hey Mama,
I'm looking to get some more power out off my VStar. My buddy says stop fooling around with that toy bike and get a big one. But . . . I really love my bike, all but the power. I'd rather put a bigger motor in it than get a new bike. How about some true performance parts like cams or big bore kits? I hear the 650 VStar engine is a bored out Virago 535; if so, would the 535's performance parts work or even the 700 Virago parts? I don't know. Well, thanks for reading and any help would be great -- even an address to someone would help. Thanks. – Jeff

Dear Jeff,
Well, I don't know about all that Virago stuff on a VStar, but if you're looking for some extra performance, I'd hit the Internet and seek out hypercharger kits for your year/make/model bike -- and consider different pipes at the same time.

As to the VStar being a toy bike -- I beg to differ. It's a much loved bike and if you like it (mostly), then I'd stick with it and check out my suggestion. If you want to pursue the Virago question, I'd head to the Virago Tech Line (discussion forum) or check out the Motorcycle Forum & Discussion Directory to find people with your VStar to "talk" to. – Mama

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Tuesday, May 4

Dear VTwin Mama,
Well, I stumbled onto your site, had a great deal of info packed on there. Way to go, and you are now bookmarked !!!

Question is this .... I have been doing some research for what type of oil to use on my V-Star 1100 Classic. I have heard many things (all good by the way) about Amsoil, Mobil 1, and Rotella. Can you actually tell me what would be a preference and why? I also heard it makes the valves a little quieter, and shifting is where you notice to be much smoother, with no clunks. – Robert

Dear Robert,
Glad you found the VTwin Mama site and are enjoying your time here! I do not recall that we've ever had a big discussion about the type/brand of oil that works best in any motorcycle. Because I change my oil frequently depending on my miles ridden, I just use an off-the-shelf 50 weight for summer and 10-40 for winter (my HD loves a heavier oil for hot summers).

Still, I did a bit of searching on the Internet, and found this article which I think is very informative on the subject -- written by Mike Guillory, a Chemist, retired from a major Oil and Chemical Company after a career in the Quality Assurance of Fuels, Lubricants, and Chemical products. Give it a read and see if it doesn't shed the appropriate light on the subject for you. – Mama

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Wednesday, May 5

Dear VTwin Mama,
I've decided to improve the look of my 96 Virago by changing the handlebar and getting rid of a little rust. While shopping online I found the handlebars I wanted, standard and dimpled. I haven't a clue what the difference is. I also came across a product called Rusteco, an environmentally friendly, effective, and costly rust remover. I'm hesitant to purchase either of them and was hoping you might've heard of both. I would greatly appreciate any input. Thank you for your time. – Boo-Boo

Dear Boo-Boo,
Well, blow me away, because when I called my local Harley dealer to figure out exactly what dimpled handlebars are (the Internet pictures were useless), they explained that there is a crease right at the switch housings that allow the wires to be run outside the handlebar instead of inside! Saves time and headaches troubleshooting, changing things out, etc. For some older model bikes, there simply is no choice in the matter!

As to the product Rusteco, I've never heard of it. From my experience, a regular chrome cleaner takes off most of the crap I'm looking to remove, but looking at Rusteco's site, it looks like its made specifically for larger, more encrusted rust removal jobs. Let's see if any readers have more input!– Mama

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Wednesday, May 5

Hey Mama,
I have a sweet spot for Hondamatics, I'm on my 4th currently (lost #3 in a break up). Getting to the question.....the last one I picked up has the front wheel locked and I have no key. My instinct is to just break the locking mechanism right off and put in a new ignition, but it looks like its not that easy, any idea how I can get the wheel unlocked without damaging the integrity of the tree???? – She-Daddy

Dear She-Daddy,
Me, myself, and I (all three of us!) would be consulting with a locksmith regarding this, either with some sort of master key that would work or picking it open. Would cost a few bucks, but probably cheaper than breaking it off and having to find a replacement part for a bike that is no longer manufactured. Or, take a look at this posting on my Auto Tranny page which has a number of Hondamatic lover site links that offer discussion forums. Maybe someone in your area has a key?! – Mama

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Thursday, May 6

For She-Daddy whose Hondamatic has a locked front wheel with no key:

There should be a key code stamped on the lock. With the key code a Honda dealer (if they have an old blank) should be able to cut a key that will work. – Marion (note from Mama: honestly, sometimes I miss the most obvious things -- thanks for pointing this out!)

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Thursday, May 6

Dear VTwin Mama,
Hi there. I've noticed in the past several postings you've commented on using premium fuel for cycles. My local mechanic has a website and has written an article on why you should NOT use premium fuel. Here's the link http://motorcycleperf.com/ if you're interested in his opinion why. 

I only use regular now. He's the only one I truly trust to work on my bike and is a woman-friendly wrencher. He's no nonsense, no fluff and is always a straight shooter when it comes to tech advice. I ride with the Sisters of the Moon chapter of Women in the Wind based in Madison, Wisconsin and they all can't say enough nice things about their encounters with him. We're fortunate as I've read many sad e-mails from women who can't find an honest mechanic in their area. Aside from that article, his website has a lot of good information. Don't get me wrong, I love your site, but he's a good reference too!

Thanks once again for all the hard work you put into making your website a joy to visit every day! – Jennifer

Dear Jennifer,
Wow, what an informative article on the subject of gasoline for motorcycles (readers, go to the site and scroll down just a bit to see the link). That's it -- since I already go to a brand name gas station for my bike gas, I'm going to try regular in my next tank full and see if I notice a performance difference. And with gas prices as they are, it would be easier on the pocketbook (and from his pictures of spark plugs, could save me a headache there as well!).

I appreciate that you love my site, but readily bow to the MANY great sites out there that contain useful information about the thousands of aspects of riding -- it's good to know that riders have lots of sources for information and that I'm an important cog in the whole effort! – Mama

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Thursday, May 6

Dear VTwin Mama,
We have a Honda CM400a (1980) and cannot find a sissybar/backrest for it...any ideas where to search or purchase? Thanks. – Gail

Dear Gail,
Hmmmm . .. from what I could on the Internet, you are joined by many Honda riders of the same model seeking parts. It seems you'll need to check out eBay, but I also found this page which offers used sissybars (but it's a bidding site as well). I also found a Honda CM400 T discussion forum (not sure what the difference is between a "A" and a "T," but it might be worthwhile to check out.– Mama

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Saturday, May 8

Dear VTwin Mama,
Hello, I have a 2000 Sportster 1200 Custom and I wanted to replace the fluids, oil, tranny, and primary. Could you give me a brief explanation on how much of what goes where? Thanks. – Trying to save a little money

Dear Trying,
If there is one place NOT to trim bucks, it's in the purchase of the maintenance manual for your year/make/model motorcycle. For about $20 you too can own the complete guide to working on the bike -- with recommended tools, troubleshooting guide, and step by step instructions (with pictures that give you a decent shot at being at the right place on the bike to do the work). Check my Reading Sources page for Internet sites that offer these, or visit your local dealer. You really can't go wrong. If I actually rode this bike, I'd be happy to share, so maybe a kind reader will offer to email with you to help. Let's see! – Mama

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Saturday, May 8

Dear VTwin Mama,
Hey everyone.  I have a question about windshields.  The one on my bike, a 750 Shadow, is high enough that I have to look through it when I ride.  With my glasses on and the shield on my helmet, I feel that having the windshield to look through is just too much . . . I feel that my vision is kind of obscured.  I'm planning to have it cut down but I'm wondering what everyone else has.  Do you have windshields and, if so, are you looking over them or through them?  I'm thinking this is probably a personal preference.

I haven't been able to ride since last December.  I found out that I have a rare brain disease and a brain aneurysm.  I've been on a leave-of-absence the entire year and spent a month in the hospital . . . three weeks in ICU in Ft. Worth, then a week at The Mayo Clinic in Minnesota.  So, I've had big life-altering things to think about.  Fortunately, I'm doing very well and hope to return to work in a few weeks.  Of course, I also hope to start riding again soon.  I'm been living vicariously through everyone on the site.  What a wonderful site it is!!

I'm going to be nervous to ride again...not only due to the amount of time I haven't been able to ride, but also because I've undergone a very serious health crisis.  I'm wondering if that's going to affect how I view riding now.  I'm very fortunate to be able to have most of my health back and know how frightening it is to think that it could be gone forever.  I think that I'll be much more cautious, if nothing else . . . not that I haven't been already.

Anyway, I just wanted to share that.  I really enjoy this site.  I can relate to so many people who write in.  Great job, Petra!! – Linda

Dear Linda,
Wow, I'd say you had a few other things to think about this year! I'm so happy to hear that health-wise you are gaining a measure of return to your happy self -- I can't even begin to imagine what you must have gone through during this period. It just makes me rethink my piddley little crisis's and reflect that sometimes it's good to hear from people whose life challenges are much larger -- it tends to take the whine out!

As to the windshield, I myself prefer something high enough to cut the wind but low enough that I'm looking over it when I ride. Especially in Spring when bug splat is at its highest! Just cutting the blunt force from my chest keeps my head from taking all the strain. Funny thing is, depending on your height in the saddle, windshields are tricky to "measure" in terms of correct effect. I'm thinking it's worth a shot to trim your current one down so it meets your exact requirements. Let's see if other readers share their thoughts!

Now, you've been visiting my site long enough that you can already hear what I would suggest for when you're ready to ride again! Take it slow and easy, head for an empty parking lot and get some practice time in. You'll want to regain your feel for the bike's handling characteristics -- set up a few markers to mimic traffic situations and get your smoothness back for starting, stopping, turns, curves and just a general overall sense of it.

As to how your health crisis will affect your actual mental thinking on the road . . . well, that's one only you'll be able to find out by going out and trying. I would suggest that you keep your initial rides to the local area, with treats built-in for small accomplishments (I find a DQ ice cream to fit the bill perfectly!). It's a wonderful way to build confidence and address any riding concerns you might be experiencing without being a hundred miles away from home. Now, smile . . . you're about to continue your adventure in riding with a new perspective . . . and I think it's wonderful! – Mama

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Saturday, May 8

From VTwin Mama:
This is for every one who has been looking for a simple chopper wiring diagram and added information, submitted by Rod (thanks Rod!):

http://www.mcworx.com/construction.htm