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2004 (Aug to Oct) Friday, August 6 For Ohio Rider who experienced a rear seat bolt problem: This is my first letter. In reference to the Ohio Rider, I own a '01 V-Star 650 Classic and was installing a new saddlebag. I discovered that the bolt that held the back seat was loose. How long it was like this, I don't know. But possibly some lock tite could solve the problem which is, in my opinion caused by the vibration of the long fender. Thanks, Joe from Deep South Texas (note from Mama: thanks for taking the time to share Joe -- all information is useful!) Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
James, Most carbs have low and high speed needle (sometimes the high speed needle is called a throttle stop screw) adjustment, but there may be an intermediate speed needle as well. You attach a tachometer to the engine according to manufacturer's instructions so that you can monitor the rpms at each stage of adjustment. The exact sequence is noted in the service/maintenance manual specific to the make/model of the bike you have. Visit the local dealer to see if they have one in stock or check my Reading Sources page for Internet sources of manuals. Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Jay, I assume you've checked the carbs' air filter and replaced or cleaned it. Any chance that the fuel filter has sediment in it? Or the plug wires are on their last legs? Have you run carb cleaner in your gas tank? That's all I can think of at this point. Mama Monday, August 9 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Correen, You would do well to immediately go get the service/maintenance manual for your year/make/model bike. Even if you decide not to learn to wrench on it yourself, at least you would have a "heads up" on some of the troubleshooting guidelines, frequency of routine maintenance, and even get a smattering of how-it-works know-how. Check for Internet sources for manuals by visiting my Reading Sources page or call your local dealer to see if they have one in stock or will order one for you. Mama Tuesday, August 10 For James who has sputter and is wondering if the carbs are out of whack: I had a similar problem (Fuel Starvation) - and it stopped doing it when I replaced my air cleaners and my spark plugs. The old filters were shot. I don't think they'd been changed in a long time by the previous owner (I just got my bike). The plugs looked ok - but one was gapped really wide. And since they were out and it's a cheap fix - new ones went in. I'm assuming it was the spark plugs that fixed that problem. This is on an '86 Intruder 700. A check on the spark plug gap might be a quick fix - or the fuel filters - check the pet-cock. Make sure its not clogged. Braids (note from Mama: thanks for the checklist as I agree that sometimes plugs seem ok, but if you re-check the gap, it's out of tolerance.) Tuesday, August 10 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Vel in CA, Tuesday, August 10 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
No Name, Do you have a service/maintenance manual for the beastie? Lots of troubleshooting ideas are contained within. Call your local dealer to see if they have one/can get one or check my Reading Sources page for Internet sites that offer them ($20 for aftermarket, $60 for factory version). You might have to bite the bullet though and have the dealer put the bike on it's performance tester to see if you have a higher level leak somewhere as bike age/mileage/sitting around may have rotted out something else around the cylinder head or seriously affected the valve timing. Sorry, but that's all I can think of right now. Mama Wednesday, August 11 More for James who has sputter and is wondering if the carbs are out of whack: I don't work on bikes that new, but I'd check the timing and make sure it was set right. And the seals around the pipes, my pipes need to be tighten every 1000 miles or so. Marion (note from Mama: I agree that exhaust pipe bolt looseness is one thing overlooked very easily, but causes oh so many problems!) Wednesday, August 11 Dear
VTwin Mama, I wear a women's size 18/20. Bike jackets seem to run smaller compared to regular jackets. It is hard to find jackets, etc. for plus size at an affordable price yet have some decent quality to them. Men's jackets will fit around the rump then they are huge across the shoulders and the sleeves are endless. I like the www.womanbiker.com jackets but can't afford them. What can you tell me about the jeans with Kevlar in them as opposed to leather chaps/pants? When I first started riding at age 10 my Dad made us wear jean jackets, boots, gloves and jeans. I have always just worn a jean jacket but with what I've been reading and the traffic has picked up in my area I'm looking for more protection. Also, what do you recommend to put on your helmet shield outside to help with rain and inside to help with anti-fog? With the humidity lately, I've been having some real problems riding at night. Lastly, is there some type of log book for your motorcycle on repairs, oil changes, etc. that you can buy or a program for on your computer? Thanks for your help. Appreciate your input. Pam from Central PA Dear
Pam, Leather is often bought for looks, but the fact is that a GOOD leather jacket is worth it's weight in gold. It boils down to the thickness of the cowhide used. If you ever see a "die-hard" Harley rider, you'll note that their leather jacket looks like it weighs a ton. That's because it's made to truly protect and can take a road skid with the best of them. The sportier textile jackets are nice, but without the Kevlar, they offer no more protection than a thin "look at me" leather jacket. It's the Kevlar that saves your own skin. True, the sportier versions with Kevlar are more lightweight than good thick cowhide, so a liner can be added and this is nice. Thick cowhide will keep off winter blasts, but summer riding is different. That's when most switch to a good thick cowhide vest. Less protection, but the chest and back are still covered (one more layer the road has to chew before getting to your skin!). Price. You always get what you pay for, so if you need to wait a little bit to save up to get the jacket that is pricier but you perceive to meet your requirements, it's well worth it! I just saw someone today scramble from underneath a fallen bike (he looked ok as I was zooming by), but it really hit home that you just can't replace quality . . . ever . . . So, the pants follow the same thinking pattern. Thick cowhide or Kevlar offer protection. As to helmet shield fogging, there are a ton of products on the market (think snorkel/diving masks) and you need only go to a search engine to find these products! Riding at night is best done with clear goggles in my opinion, rather than a face shield, even a clear one, although I'm not opposed to it. Less "look around" restrictions, but good protection. As to motorcycle maintenance software, I really couldn't find anything useful and would advocate getting the maintenance/service manual for your year/make/model bike and starting an Excel spreadsheet. You sound adamant about precise upkeep, so make sure to get the factory manual versus the aftermarket version (it's about $60 at www.repairmanuals.com rather than the $20 aftermarket version, which is good . . . ) But that's just me! Readers, any thoughts here?! Mama Thursday, August 12 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
JRB, Saturday, August 14 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Gina, Now for a small lesson: the answer I'm about to impart to you was gained by calling my local dealer and asking for the service department . . . Steve took the time to find the manual and look it up for me! You too can do the same in the future without EVER feeling like an idiot, because I NEVER feel dumb asking a perfectly valid question. On the right side, towards the front, is the motor case. You'll see a triangle cover (rounded corners) and three bolts. The filter is underneath that, but Steve notes to make sure that you don't damage the O-ring removing the filter and don't lose the spring. The oil filler is just in front of that. 2 quarts (about 1800ml) will fill it up again, but check the oil level window . . .should be in the near vicinity! Have fun! Mama Saturday, August 14 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Jim, Monday, August 16 For Gina who is trying to locate her oil filter on a Savage: We just changed the oil in our Savage for the first time and wanted you to know that you will also need a new "crush gasket" for the oil drain plug. And you should replace the O-ring when you replace the filter. Be sure the service department gives you a cartridge and not a spin on filter. My dealer tried to give me a filter for a SV650 sport bike and not the one for the LS650. If you have any other questions please let me know, I would be glad to help. Lou (note from Mama: thanks for the added information!) Monday, August 16 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
John, Then, either contact your local dealer or check my Reading Sources page and get a service/maintenance manual for your beastie. Invaluable! Mama Tuesday, August 17 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
SC, Hop on over to my Reading Sources page and you'll find Internet sites that offer these for sale (aftermarket $20, factory version $60) or call your local dealer to see if they have them in stock. Well worth the investment because bikes need regular maintenance to keep them running right. Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Anyway, I have recently ordered some new crap they got called "Blue Away", to take the discoloration off of my pipes (because it's ugly!). Whether it works or not, I'll find out sometime this week. But.......anyway, I haven't even got to my question yet! I am considering purchasing a hypercharger for my bike. Now....does it require another stage of jetting, or will the jets and carbs I have from the Cobra specification chart with the pipes suffice for the charger as well? Whew! I typed that all in one breath! Now, I'm a first time rider and a first time motorcycle mechanic. I have some mechanical abilties due to my job as an avionic tech in the Marine Corps working on F/A-18 Hornets. So, I'm a little confident there. When I pulled out my carburetor that first time, I must say, it kicked my ass! So, this is why I am asking. If I have to do it again....I will, but I won't like it. So, I'd appreciate a little info regarding this matter. Hell, throw in some advice for my pipes as well. Thank you. Gerry Verrette Dear
Gerry, Sunday, August 22 Hi
there
VTwin Mama, Dear
Vivian, Heres what the Honda Rebel Online forum says, As the maintainer of the Honda Rebel BBS forum, I frequently see pleas for info and help that is readily available in this book. You can't beat having the info you need, right at your finger tips, while you are outside or in the garage maintaining your Rebel. So, go buy a manual. If there is no dealer close by, go to my Reading Sources page for Internet sites that sell them. MamaSunday, August 22 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Oso, Monday, August 23 For Gerry who has changed the bike exhaust pipes but they discolored: Blue Away does work, but need to be careful as it also takes a bit of the chrome away as well !!! Tara (note from Mama: thanks for the warning!) Tuesday, August 24 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Sherry, You can make a bike louder by drilling
holes in the exhaust pipe baffles or removing the baffles altogether.
Careful though, it can affect the correct operation of the carburetor,
which may need to be re-jetted. Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
John, Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Carmine, Tuesday, August 31 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Kathy, Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Samiam, Thursday, September 2 For Samian who is looking to get the seat off a VLX: I have a VLX as well, but a 2001. Look at the back of the seat, there are 2 allen head screws (not directly in back, a little on the side) -- undo those screws and slide the seat back and up. This of course being if you have a stock seat. Good luck. Tara (note from Mama: thanks for the input!) Friday, September 3 For John whose bike has been backfiring since day one: Has John had the pipes on his bike bored out? If so, it may have to be rejetted. Just a thought. Tara (note from Mama: I did not think to ask if the bike had been modified in any way . . . and yes, new pipes or altered pipes could be causing this problem. Still, one would think the mechanic caught this, but then, one never knows!) Friday, September 3 For Carmine whose bike ran out of gas and now it's running rough: I suspect that accumulated crap that settles at the bottom of the petrol tank was sucked into the carbie when the tank went dry. You won't believe the crud that builds up as sediment inside your petrol tanks as the years go by. Dust, rust dirt, not to mention the stuff that actually comes with the petrol you hose in from the pumps. Four bits of advice: Don't let the tank run dry, install a filter between the petrol tap and the carbie, unscrew and clean petrol tap filter twice a year, and upend and clean out petrol tank twice a year. Kevin in Oz (note from Mama: point well taken and would explain the poor performance! Thanks for the tips on minimizing the potential problems.) Monday, September 6 For John whose bike has been backfiring since day one: Had the same problem with Sportster. This was when I just began to ride it. I felt like rocket woman as I backfired and flamed down the road. Very frustrating. Could be the intake valve, fuel mixture or leak in carburetor seat. Sometimes valve clearance goes away because valve bangs into seat and elongates, thereby, making valve clearance go away. Check for carburetor manifold air leaks; that will make it run lean and backfire. Look in your book or ask if this is a four-valve per cylinder engine. There are twice as many valves in some of the new engines and only one has to go bad. Sometimes the only way to check for slow valve leakage is to pull the head, leaving the valves in it, turning it up-side-down, pouring solvent into the valve pocket - to see if it leaks through. On the Sportster it took 40 minutes to leak through. That told me it was bad. Be sure they checked timing. Had bike to HD dealer, an independent and last independent, fixed the intake valve problem. Ran beautifully after that. Cecilia (note from Mama: thanks for sharing your first-hand experience. I shouldn't have been so quick to call John's bike a lemon maybe . . . and have to remind myself that not all mechanics are created equal!) Tuesday, September 7 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
DB, Dear
VTwin Mama, 1. Will the rear tire, now a 180x70 but slightly smaller diameter from stock 150/80, hit inner fender? f it does, can a heavy duty (available) spring help or should I only go 1 1/2 down? 2. I will match front fork springs with stop at same measurement as rear, so can you suggest oil weight or is trial and error the only way? Will oil weight make noticeable difference? If so, how and what will the feeling /result be? 3. Kick stand shorting best method? How much /is there a direct ratio formula? 4. My riding style ...rarely aggressive mostly cruz or rare long highway trip 2/5 hrs on interstate,very smooth. I have riding 44 yrs and own several types....thanks. David, '95 Honda Magna VF750C Dear
David, Wednesday, September 8 For John who wrote in last April and is always on the lookout for VMax info: I noticed this page while searching on something else Vmax related. I would like to say have a look at our site at www.enhancetech.com.au for a new accessory called the SASY for the Vmax, for the VBoost actually. He might be interested and so might other people on this forum. Regards, Barry Sexton, Enhance Tech (note from Mama: isn't it amazing what the search engines will spit out from time to time?! Thanks for sharing your product, something for consideration.) Wednesday, September 8 For David who is looking for input on working on his Magna: There is a great forum on Delphi specifically for Magna riders/owners. I am friends with a few of the guys on there and they really know their stuff. The website is www.delphiforums.com. He can do a search for Magna information from there. Terri in Baltimore (note from Mama: thanks for pointing out another source of knowledge!) Wednesday, September 8 Dear
VTwin Mama, My problem is getting the kickstand to stay down. I can't flip it all the way down cause my shin hits the peg even in the up position. The dealership said I need an extension on the kickstand. Will that help cause I thought I needed a shorter kickstand? I do not have trouble finding the kickstand, just getting it to not flip back up w/o having to tip my bike extremely far to the right, almost dropping it every time. Until I do get the extension or shorter kickstand, I hop off of it and then lower the stand, leaning the bike very far to the right. I am 112lbs. and 5'1" and my bike is 550 lbs and once I drop it, that's it. I haven't learned how to pick it up yet. What do you suggest . . . the extension or the shorter stand? I am going to Harley tomorrow. It seems the J&P Cycles catalog doesn't have 2004 kickstands for the Sportster yet. Thank you. Christina Samborski Dear
Christina, Because the bike has been lowered, I think your best bet is to visit the dealer as you noted you would. This way, a service tech can look at your modified bike and choose from a number of solutions that will get the job done right. Do not hesitate to engage the tech in a full discussion about the subject, including what the best lean angle is for your bike, and how the chosen new part will accomplish this. It's just that important! A good tech should be willing to explain why an extension vs. a shorter kickstand will be the right choice. Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, The first things I had done were: a carb rebuild, new air filter, and oil & filter change. This has helped to reduce the amount of time it takes to warm up the bike to full function, and it sometimes runs without any problems, but the same problems are still there. I took the bike back in and was told that it's probably the igniter, that the change in power is due to the second cylinder kicking in, and that this is a common problem with Viragos (thanks for telling me that in the first place!). I am very new to bikes, feeling pretty helpless and at the mercy of the mechanics, and getting frustrated by the amount of money I've been putting up with very little results. Does the igniter diagnosis sound right? Do you have any other ideas or recommendations for me? Thanks in advance. Phu Dear
Phu, I'm hoping Virago owners will respond to your message with input on the "it's a Virago thing" portion of your concerns. I'm wondering if you are not having a fuel-related problem. There may be water or small crud particles in the tank that settle when the bike is at rest, and get sucked up into the system (i.e. the carb) when you want to run. A related part/function would be the fuel filter. This might explain why sometimes it runs ok, sometimes it backfires and then clears and sometimes just doesn't run right at all. In order to not be at the mercy of others working on the bike, make every effort to get a service manual for your year/make/model bike. Check with the dealer or my Reading Sources page for Internet sites that offer them. Even if you are not mechanically inclined, the troubleshooting sections will help you become more fluent on how systems work together and lists of potential causes for a wide variety of symptoms. This would be a good place to start . . . and then seek a new mechanic. Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Desperate, Or, with any luck, an astute reader of this column will have some input! Mama Wednesday, September 15 For Phu whose bike is running rough and lots has been tried already: My wife owns a virago 535. One of the problems we have had sounds similar to yours. After cleaning the fuel tank, filter etc. it still fouled spark plugs regularly. I knew that with a V-Twin motor it is sometimes necessary to run a hotter heat range plug in the rear cylinder. When I went to the NGK web site I found that the plugs for her bike should be BP7-ES not the BP8-ES which were in it. With this change the bike runs much better, more power, no backfiring, etc. Spark plug numbers, the lower number is the hotter plug. Be very careful when you change heat ranges. Too hot a plug can fry a cylinder in a hurry. Pull the plugs, a black deposit, usually sooty is indicative of a cold plug or too rich a mixture. Too hot or too lean is a white color. The plugs should be a light brown or tan in color. After changing plugs run it for a while and then check them again. DO GET A SERVICE MANUAL!! Chiltons makes a very good one for the Virago. Remember, carburetor is a French word for DON'T MESS WITH IT!!!! Good luck, Jim, '76 Shovel (note from Mama: ahhhh, a fellow '76 Shovelhead rider! Thank you for this excellent piece of advice and clarifying what carburetor really means . . . I had tears running down my face from laughing so hard when I read that!) Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Joe, Drawing on previous letters, you might want to direct yourself to the gas supply system. We've heard before (especially on new bikes or bikes that have been sitting for quite some time), where the interior treatment of the gas tank was flaking, sending crud up into the carburetor. Even very small particles can cause a problem. Check your fuel line filter for clogging and drain the tank for inspection. By any chance where alternative exhaust pipes installed somewhere in all of this? It's amazing how much different a bike runs then. They could be restricting the emission and causing problems back up the line. It's time to sit down with the manager of the service department, and if necessary, the owner of the dealership. Ask them to test ride this bike and if these top people are still hedging, inform them that you are considering taking the bike to a local independent mechanic or the dealership in the next closest city for evaluation and that you'll be sending them the bill. This should get their collective attention. If you do take this route, put your intentions in writing, noting previous work attempted, your dispute, etc. with a copy to Suzuki U.S. headquarters. Mama Monday, September 20 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Jimmy, Tuesday, September 21 For Joe who is having mechanical trouble with his '04 Suzuki: In almost all of the states, motorcycles are included in
the Lemon Law. Look on the net for the Lemon Laws in your state and then
keep track of all the hours/repair orders etc. that your cycle has been in
the shop. It could fall right into the category of a lemon. Let the owner
of the dealership know you are considering this direction and it really
helps to get their attention. You'll have your bike fixed in no time at
all! Just another avenue to check out. Tuesday, September 21 For Desperate whose 1970 Yami 650 has some issues: The bike will run reasonably well on just one cylinder.
The side with the cold exhaust probably has a non-firing (or rarely
firing) spark plug. Check the wiring, put a new plug in and see if that
helps. The plug wire or the plug itself could be bad or the rings could be
shot in that cylinder allowing oil to foul the plug. If the rings are shot
(the old plug is black and wet), a new plug will help for a little while;
it will foul and probably stop working after a short period of time. Thursday, September 23 For Jim with the VStar 650 oil filter question: You can download a owners manual from the Yamaha web site. It'll show you what you need to know. Otherwise, if you're sitting on your bike, it's the lowest circular cover on your RIGHT side with allen screws in it, once you open that, you'll find another cover inside that you need to remove. Easy to do, just take it easy not to strip the screws.. The upper cover houses the air filter. For Mo with the 650 Custom question: My wife and I each have 650 Customs. Experience more than tire size will save your skin on a curve! The Custom is a great machine that will provide you with the speed you need and is quite nice handling in curves, corners, going up mountains, driving on the Interstate etc. You're right, it's much less pricey than a Harley. My plan was also to upgrade to a HD but we are solidly sold on the V-Star 650s that we can't even perceive that we should upgrade to the 1100 model. For Christina who upgraded her VStar 1100: You mention you upgraded pipes, re-jetted and "all that stuff". Does all that stuff include getting a Big Air Kit to accommodate the new jets? V-Stars are notorious for backfire on deceleration. Disconnect the AIS and it will square that away. If that doesn't work, might want to have your carbs synced. For Christina with the VStar cam chain noise: If the noise became louder, definitely check into it. If the bike is new to you and you notice the noise, synthetic oil is the key to quietness. For Cecilia regarding the VStar noise that sounds like a horn: That's the fuel pump that makes that noise. I found that out twice from experience, just shortly after hearing that "horn like noise" I was pushing my bike to the gas station. Re: VStar 650 RPM/shifting issue: To the individual with the V-Star 650: I'd like to say that everyone who owns this machine (2 in my family) have all mentioned the seemingly high RPMs this machine revs at hwy speeds. We also spend loads of time, as does everyone else, trying to find that elusive (non-existent) sixth gear! Even my friend who owns a 1600cc Harley does that so it's not just V-Star specific. If you find shifting to be either difficult or noisy, switch to a synthetic oil (Autozone carries V-Twin Synthetic by Mobil 1). Pricy but worth it! Consider browsing the delphi forums for our V-Star Forum. Loads and loads of information from other V-Star owners. Jim (note from Mama: you've been a busy reader, but appreciate all the input as every little bit helps!) Friday, September 24 Dear
VTwin Mama, Have you heard of any cases of this happening to some one else? I'm still leery of riding my bike with 1000 miles and the mechanic found nothing wrong. They also call Kawasaki tech support and they have not heard of similar problems of this sort. If you can find something out and let me know, I would appreciate it. Thanks. Chris Marcotte Dear
Chris, Saturday, September 25 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Dan, First, double check that the plugs you are using are the right ones. You can do this by checking this specific page on the NGK site or checking with the parts department at the local dealer. Or perhaps a change has been made to the bike's system that requires a cooler plug. Have you recently added something or changed something out? In keeping with the KISS principle, I also suggest you recheck the air filter to make sure it is not dirty or clogged as this will alter the air to gas ratio and at the same time, ensure that your fuel filter is in good shape. Another suggestion is to check the integrity of the exhaust pipe connection . . . is the gasket in good shape and are the bolts tightened down? A warped gasket can cause all sorts of problems and is cheap enough to replace! There are a number of products on the market to remove the blueing on the pipe, but be aware that they can also take a little chrome off at the same time. Mama Saturday, September 25 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Tracey, Saturday, September 25 For Joe who is having mechanical trouble with his '04 Suzuki: Ask the mechanic to put all his thoughts on the Suzi into writing . . . then forward a copy to Suzuki America . . . (the 1400 Intruder is made in the USA). I am sure you will get an immediate response...if the mechanic is dumb enough to do it . . . remember . . . Suzuki has a duty of care and quality assurance to sell bikes that do what they claim they will . . . plenty of people have taken legal action here in Oz because a company's products do NOT do what they claim. I must also tell you I had a '96 1400 Intruder myself and it had so many probs in the first six months I owned it, I sold the bloody thing. The carbies are a real bastard to set up correctly. And the single front disc is useless, might as well just drag yer feet along the ground. BUT: plenty of others in USA rave about them...check out www.intruderalert.com Biggest Intruder site on the net. Good Luck. For Jim who noted that the VStar seems like it needs a sixth gear: Hell, that's easy mate . . . change the sprocket sizes. For more highway speed go up one on the front sprocket or down about four (or more) on the rear. For more torque but less top speed . . . go down one on the front and up four or more on the rear. We do it to our bikes here all the time. Talk to a proper Yamaha mechanic about changing to better size sprocket. I don't ride a VStar and so am unfamiliar with the standard sprocket sizes. Guessing 16 tooth on the front . . . suggest leaving front alone and getting smaller sprocket for rear. Kevin in Australia (note from Mama: once again, thank you for taking the time to share so many thoughts and helping out! Each piece of the puzzle is better understood when we have more information!) Monday, September 27 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Wanda, Dear
VTwin Mama, I jacked the bike up and without weight on the tire the noise is less frequent but can be heard occasionally at erratic intervals as I spin the wheel. At first I thought it might be the rear caliper at the disc brake. But I think I can feel a slight vibration from the final gear housing when the noise is there. Should I be concerned? Can the final gear lock up on me when I am riding the bike? Please give me your advice. I plan to contact the dealer, but would appreciate your opinion as it is Sunday evening in Pennsylvania. No Name Dear
No Name, Thursday, September 30 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
BKRGRL, Saturday, October 2 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Slow but hopeful, Saturday, October 2 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Kurt, Monday, October 4 For No Name who is having problems with the VStar 1100: Don't wait for it to get worse, take it in for service. I've not had this problem as of yet. Good luck. Barbara in Queen Creek (note from Mama: some things DO require immediate qualified service.) Monday, October 11 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
M., Tuesday, October 12 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Penny, Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Anderson, If you haven't already done this, I would suggest that you call your local dealer's service department (try to hit them during non-peak hours) -- who knows what troubleshooting steps they might come up with for you! Mama Monday, October 18 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Jenn, As a new rider, it can take some time to learn the nuances of your bike's performance, so it might be advisable to get some miles under your belt in it's current configuration (as long as the bike keeps running well). If you are satisfied with the current performance (throttle response/hp) then leave well enough alone, but if the extra power (which is often the case with changing out the stock jet) is of interest down the line, then consider making the change. New riders often report that they are ready for more oomph in about six months of steady riding time. Just some food for thought. Mama For Anderson whose bike's turn signals only work after riding for 4-5 miles: This bike has self-canceling turn signals. I would check to see if the turn signal cancel unit or the angle sensor is the culprit. Either or both could be at the core of needing warm up time before working properly. The Clymer service manual has a very detailed description on testing these units on the Honda V-fours. Great book to have around when you're doin' your own wrenching. HammerLady who runs www.shinnyside.com (note from Mama: thank goodness this site is a discussion forum and not just me talking! Great input and second the motion on getting a service/maintenance manual. The Clymer books are aftermarket and about $20 a pop . . . the factory version about $60. Check my Education Center page for Internet sources on manuals.) Thursday, October 21 I'm glad I found your site too. I really love when I see women enjoying riding as much as us guys. Thank you for your reply. I have not figured it out yet but I'll let you know when I do. The guy at the shop said to clean everything and check for shorts. When I told him I did already he was pretty stumped. There was a post on your site about my self cancellation unit. I heard somebody else mention that, so I'm gonna check that next. Again, thank you very much. Anderson (note from Mama: you are very welcome . . . am posting this in hopes another reader sees your request for input and has some additional thoughts on what else to check. It's a real brain teaser! Just a thought, but have you replaced the actual bulbs in the turn signals? I know in many configurations, if a bulb burns out, all turn signals on that side cease to work. A hairline crack in one of the bulbs could be causing a problem. Ok, ok, I know this is really bad KISS, but then, you never know!) Saturday, October 30 Dear
VTwin Mama, You have suggested once or twice that a simple way of lowering the bike is to put smaller wheels on. Yes, this will lower the bike, but you should note that this will also make the speedo inaccurate, eg., if you fit wheels that are 5% smaller than original, then they will rotate that much faster at a given speed and the speedo will also read 5% higher than you are actually traveling at. Also some time ago someone mentioned changing the sprockets on a Yamaha VStar to make it faster. Great idea, except that the VStars use a driveshaft and not a chain, ie., no sprockets to change. Good luck on a great site. I've been reading it for ages and have got some very handy tips. Ol' Smurkey in Melbourne, Australia Dear
Ol' Smurkey, |
