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2005
(January to May 21)
Monday,
January 10
Dear
VTwin Mama,
I'm trying to find a service manual for a 2002 Indian Chief. The closest
thing I've found is for a 2003 Vintage Chief. How different are they? Will
that manual cover everything but the obvious differences? (Headlights,
fork, frame.) Troubled in Vegas
Dear
Troubled,
I admit that I can't answer whether the one manual you mentioned
would be useful for your year/make. I thought I'd find the manual on my
favorite manual site, but no luck. My suggestion is to contact the Indian
Fulfillment Center either by calling (631) 724-3997
or email: imcfulfilment@yahoo.com
and ask, as the Indian Motorcycle site doesn't list the manuals under
their parts and accessories link.
Mama
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Thursday,
January 20
Dear
VTwin Mama,
I have a 92 Harley Heritage FLSTC. When I check the air filter it smells
like gasoline. Can you give me any idea if this is normal or if I need to
have something fixed? Thanks
Robin
Dear
Robin,
Not to worry. I'm guessing that you bought this bike used and it's
highly possible that the previous owner cleaned the current filter with
gas or a cleaning solvent that can smell like gas. It's not recommended,
but many use this method instead of replacing the filter if it's not torn
or truly worn out. Of course, keep in mind that the air filter operates
near the carburetor, whose job is to mix the air passing through the air
filter and the incoming gas to correct proportions. Thus, there will
almost always be a lingering smell of gas.
If
you have not done so already, a great idea is to get the
service/maintenance manual for your bike. Lots of helpful hints and tips,
as well as a troubleshooting guide and tons more! Check my Education
Center page for Internet sites that offer these . . . usually $20 for
the aftermarket version and about $70 for the factory authorized service
manual.
Mama
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Thursday,
January 20
Dear
VTwin Mama,
Got a 2002 Yamaha VStar 1100 with front air injection pipe problems. In
Dec '03, they replaced the pipe due to pin hole leak (they attributed to
rust). However, the bike is the shop again with the same problem. Any
ideas what is causing it and whether you've heard anyone experiencing the
same problem?
s/ilonggakano
Dear
s/ilonggakano,
As I noted in my email, I threw this question to a VTwin
Mama Mentor with the same bike, who responded: New one one me. Did
they change from stock pipes to something else? I've just replaced mine
with Cobra Slip-ons and the mechanic said to watch for problems with carb.
None yet. But a leak in the pipe itself and twice! No clue.
So,
now we throw this question out to the readers to see if there is anyone
who can provide input.
Mama
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Friday,
January 21
Dear
VTwin Mama,
I am trying to find the hot 12v for the brake light in the headlamp
assembly on a 2003 Honda Shadow 750 ACE. I added a Kisan SignalMinder and
the brake override needs the 12v signal from the brake. Any ideas?
Karry Davis
Dear
Karry,
Oh dear, without the wiring diagram to your bike I'm at a loss to
assist. For projects like this, it's always helpful to have the service
manual for your specific bike, which includes routine maintenance,
troubleshooting, detailed procedures on all sorts of things, and yes, the
wiring diagrams. Even if you can't read an electrical schematic, with this
manual you could go to the local dealer's service department and asked for
assistance (they may have the manual in house, but it's still a cool way
to walk into the shop and then you'll have the reference manual for future
projects!). Check my Education Center page for Internet sites that offer
these for sale (typically about $20 for the aftermarket version and about
$60-70 for the factory version).
Mama
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Friday,
January 28
Dear
VTwin Mama,
Help! After I completed Rider's Edge in 2003, I purchased a 2003 Harley
Davidson 883 Hugger. Let me describe myself - I'm a 56 year old, 4'
10," Italian born, slightly over-weight, married for 37 year, fun
lover. My husband lowered the Hugger (front springs in the forks and
reposition of the rear shocks, plus a "Badlander seat) so I can
"flat foot" at a stop (although the battery box digs into my
left thigh at a stop). He also installed a "Clutch Ease."
Here's the problem I hope you can help me with. I have
small hands and the reach out to the clutch lever is becoming more and
more difficult because of arthritic pain. I've heard of ergonomic levers
but really don't know what they will do for me. So......how do I get the
clutch lever closer to the grip and easier to pull? What can I do to the
battery to eliminate the box digging into my left thigh? Thanks for any
help you can provide, V/R
Carmela Catherman in Severn, MD
Dear
Carmela,
Thanks for sharing some details about who you are and the bike you
love! Sounds like the bike is meeting the majority of your needs, so let's
see if we can bring more solutions on the current challenges you are
facing.
In
its essence, the word ergonomic means (according to Webster's) "an
applied science concerned with the characteristics of people that need to
be considered in designing and arranging things that they use in order
that people and things will interact most effectively and
safely."
For
motorcycle clutch levers, it usually boils down to an easier pull lever to
accommodate those people that don't have the hand strength to pull in a
standard clutch. Unfortunately, these designs do not always incorporate a
smaller "footprint," meaning that they don't take into account a
smaller hand that simply does haven't the same range to reach out and
grasp the lever.
To
date, the only company I have ever found that offers a clutch lever with
an adjustable reach is ASV
Inventions. According to the site, "ASV levers are designed to be
a universal fit. Our universal clutch levers include a perch so they fit
all makes, models and years of motorcycles and ATV's." This would be
worth checking out for your bike.
As
to the battery box, according to Josh in the service department at my
local Harley dealer, the only option is too modify the oil tank and then
the battery box can be modified. For earlier models (pre 2003), there
appears to be a set of pre-designed solutions, but not for your bike
(yet). This may never come to fruition for your year. Josh notes that you
could have this customized, but would be in the neighborhood of $2000
because of all the labor involved. This sounds pretty pricey.
I
have another thought, but warn that you should call your local dealer's
service department to make sure it has no negative impact. How about
fabricating a soft cover for the battery case? Perhaps a quilted material
that offers a little "squish" factor" instead of the chrome
case digging directly into your thigh. Again, you want to make sure that
you're not doing something negative (trapping heat?), etc. That's about
all I can think of.
Mama
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Tuesday,
February 1
Dear
VTwin Mama,
Just a lil' thought. Sears Craftsman, among several other tool
manufacturers, makes pretty good tools. Since Sears is all over the USA,
simply find out what kind of tools are needed for a particular job (from
your manual. It always mentions which tools you need. You can't live
without a manual!), and head for your local Sears store and talk to the
guys in the tool dept. They always want to help and give advice.
Rand
Dear
Rand,
Thanks for your reminder that the maintenance/service manuals has a
tool section and instructions do reference the necessary tools. I myself
have built my workshop partially based on the tool list in my manual and
then some personal experience. I agree that you can approach the tool
department and ask for assistance . . . even better when you bring in the
manual to show them what you plan on doing (for those that might not be as
familiar with the terminology . . . calling it something a
"thingy" only gets you so far!). Readers searching for Internet
sources for manuals can check my Education
Center page for ideas.
Mama
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Tuesday,
February 1
Dear
VTwin Mama,
For carb problems: Just a couple of things here. I have found that the
best way to find where your mixture screw setting is is to count the
number of turns IN until LIGHTLY bottomed, write this number down, and
then you can go ahead and take the mixture screw out. On most carbs there's
a very small o-ring and washer at the end of the screw or in the hole. DON'T
LOSE THEM! You'll be stunned at the price of new ones . . . if you can get
them.
If
the bike will not idle, it's been my experience that the pilot jet is
fully or partially plugged. They can be a bit of a pain to get out as they're
usually down a hole. This is important . . . make sure your screwdriver
fits well!! It's brass, they're small, and they're usually tight. The idle
circuit runs through the pilot jet. And lastly, the best carb cleaner I
have ever found is a marine product called Powertune from the Mercury
Marine line. I've tried quite a few, Tecumseh, Gunk, Wynns, and God knows
how many others and none of them can touch this stuff. The only others I've
found to be close are the Honda and Suzuki Carburetor and combustion
chamber cleaner. Warning, don't leave the parts in the cleaner too long. I
did and they came out looking like they'd been sandblasted!
No Name
Dear
NN,
Wow . . . lots of practical advice here on a potentially sticky
subject. Thanks for sharing!
Mama
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Tuesday,
February 1
Hi
Mama!
I own a 2004 Kawasaki Vulcan Classic 800, and I'm tired of the chain
drive. I have read about belt kit conversions from Scootworks, and wanted
to know if they are reliable or troublesome. The bike is great, but the
chain is shit.
David
Dear
David,
I don't have first-hand knowledge of these conversions kits, so
let's see if we have any readers who might be able to lend an opinion.
Mama
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Wednesday,
February 2
Dear
VTwin Mama,
Hello , my wife rides a '85 Honda Rebel 250 and she wants to change
mufflers from stock to slash cut megaphones with removable baffles for
more sound. First, can this change be made by removing the baffles and
running straight pipes? And if so, how will we need to rejet the carb?
Thanks.
Billy
Dear
Billy,
Anytime you alter the exhaust system there exists the great possibility
that the carb will need to be re-jetted. Many readers of this site have
counseled that instead of removing the baffles completely from the stock
pipes, you may wish to drill a pattern of small holes in the baffles.
Often times this will produce the extra sound you're looking for without
completely altering the set-up.
Here
is a discussion thread from the Honda
Rebel Online site (lots of info all around) on rejetting carbs: http://www.surfmaine.com/rebelforum/viewtopic.php?t=3288&highlight=carb+rejet.
Good luck on your project!
Mama
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Wednesday,
February 2
Hey
VTwin Babe,
My wallet is getting thinner by the minute and the last time I opened it,
there was nothing in there but oil! Hence, while I go looking under the
couch for spare change, I was wondering if anyone out there could
recommend a good source of USED manuals for a 2000 Aero 1100? My carbs
definitely need work and I'm gonna have to do it myself. Also looking for
a left battery side cover and floorboard, or a pair of cheapo, used
floorboards. This bike took a left side spill and needs some lovin'.
Really appreciate it, and you have a fantastic website! Thanx,
Rand
Dear
Rand,
The Motor Bookstore appears to have used manuals for sale. Click
here for the page I found when I typed in your bike year/make/model..
Usually these are about $20 for new aftermarket but I think I spotted one
for $16.
I
tried an Internet searched for a site with used parts, but there were just
too many hits. You might try eBay or check with the local dealer to see if
they have a bulletin board you can post a message with the things you are
looking for. You might also want to type in "Honda Aero 1100
discussion forum" in a search engine and seek out like-minded riders.
This would broaden your search scope but to people with the same bike.
Mama
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Monday,
February 7
For
Rand or anyone who's looking for a motorcycle manual:
Half
Price Books is a great place to start looking. They're not located in
every state (only 13 of them), but there are some great finds in their
stores. I live in Fort Worth, TX and go there frequently.
Linda Scott (note from Mama: thanks for the heads up on this!)
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Wednesday,
February 9
For
Billy whose looking into changing pipes and asking about the necessity to
re-jet the carb:
Anytime
a change is made regarding how the engine breathes (hi flo air filter, or
exhaust being the most common) a change in fuel to air mix may be in order
but you should not jump in with re jetting carb until you first read the
spark plugs. They will tell you if the fuel to air mix is too
lean. Make your modification and put in fresh plugs. Ride the bike a few
hundred miles and then have a competent mechanic check the plugs. You may
want to save the old plugs to have something to reference to. Respects,
George (note from Mama: this is an interesting bit of added information .
. . very helpful! I've got a basic guide to reading
fouled plugs that might be helpful to get started.)
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Thursday,
February 10
Dear
VTwin Mama,
I have a 1993 Virago XV535. Now, what happens is in the morning my bike
starts normally but will only idle for 3 or 4 minutes before dying and
then becomes impossible to start unless left overnight again. Now, when
the bike dies, the fuel pump relay makes a repetitive clicking noise even
with just the ignition switched on. I have checked the fuel line to the
carbs and it seems to be pumping fuel o.k. I replaced the relay but it
made no difference. Could there be a blockage in the carbs (it won't run
on 1 cylinder either) and why the clicking sound? Thank you,
Jean, Scotland
Dear
Jean,
Ok, Im not a complete gearhead, but heres the clue Im
pinging on: the bike dies, sits overnight, and then you can start it up
again. Thats usually the system being flooded (sometimes referred to
as, oh heck, I just flooded the bike). The unvaporized gas/air
mixture that the carb delivers to the piston area dries out overnight and
youre back to square one! Pull the spark plugs after the bike dies and
take a good sniff. Overwhelmed with gas? There you go!
So, it could be that the gas/air mix
delivered to be sparked is wrong (carb needs to be readjusted, air filter
cleaned or replaced (this is a biggee), did you change something in the
exhaust and carb needs rejetting?, or are you leaving the choke open too
long? Or is the choke stuck open?).
Or, it could be a problem with the
plugs and spark system. First, check the spark plugs (they should be
changed at least once a year at the very minimum, check the gap (again),
replace the actual spark plug wires (yes, they get old too). Past that you
need a service manual and/or mechanic IMHO.
Clicking
of the fuel pump relay does not seem to be indicative of problem (most
relays click when ignition is on until you actual start the
vehicle). Try these things and see where youre at. Basic truth to hold
dearly too . . . its a free call to the local bike dealers service
department with a quick run down of symptoms. Most are happy to help (but
try to call during non-peak hours). And by the way, do you have a service
manual? If not, get one please. Loads of advice and troubleshooting guides
contained within. Good luck!
Mama
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Friday,
February 11
For
Jean whose Virago XV535 is dying after a few minutes of idle time:
Please
join Virago Tech. You would be amazed at the help you can get when
everyone puts their heads together. And there are loads of places on the
web for manuals, with excellent prices. I prefer the Clymer manuals for
both of my Viragos. Mary Martin-Gay (note from Mama:
oh,
this site looks good! It's at http://www.viragotech.com/.
Thanks for chiming in with this suggestion!)
The important clue here is the clicking fuel pump. If
there was a problem with air filters & flooding, the pump would stop
clicking. The fact that it is pumping away indicates a lack of fuel in the
carbies. I would suggest a fuel blockage in the line from the tank to the
pump. Overnight, a trickle sneaks past the blockage into the carbies,
allowing it to start in the morning. After this small quantity of fuel
burns off in a couple of minutes, the blockage prevents any more reaching
the pump & carbies which stops the engine. Of course the pump is still
trying to refill the float chambers in the carbies and sits there ticking
away to itself. Try cleaning the fuel lines, or the filter in the tank.
Maybe you're just nearly out of fuel?? Put a few litres in & see what
happens. Good luck. Smokey in Australia (note from Mama:
I
stand corrected on the clicking . . . thanks for setting me straight on
this . . . I appreciate that you took the time to write in and help out!)
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Monday,
February 28
Dear
VTwin Mama,
Hey. Haven't been in touch for awhile. Took the MSF course last year,
passed first time, rode the heck out of my Rebel. Hubby decided it was
time for me to move up, which is okay by me, but bequeathed his Honda 1100
ACE tourer to me. Problem is, it is running really rough and backfires
like crazy. He took it to a bike shop where they kept it for 6 months and
didn't fix it. Lucky me, now he wants me to have it . . . cause he has a
Valkyrie now. Thanks for letting me vent! Can the Shadow be saved?
Kathy
Dear
Kathy,
Yikes, 6 months in a shop and they couldn't solve it? Too weird.
Yes, there are some bikes out there that for some reason or another are
truly lemons. However, I'd be asking for a list of what that shop tried
and then talking with another shop to work this out. Backfiring is caused
by unburned gas getting to the exhaust pipes. (where it explodes because
quite frankly it has nothing better to do at that point!). If you're leery
about another shop (dealer or independent), take the time to have a
heart-to-heart with the service managers of shops you are considering.
Here's a Backfiring
FAQ page I found that I think will be helpful for you in understanding
the bigger picture.
Mama
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Friday,
March 4
For
Kathy whose bike was in the shop for backfiring, but no resolution was
found:
The
bike you have is no lemon generally...although there are generally
differing opinions of 'Hubbies' who stick their wife with old bikes that
don't run very well...
A
large Honda dealership should take a good look at this problem. Why
do I specify large? Well, because many times the smaller ones are
backed up for months during the riding season and cannot get to it or even
tell you when they think they will be able to....not so with a reputable
larger dealership or Multi-dealer. Make sure that the dealer knows
and understands YOUR bike and not just motors or motorcycles in general.
There are many good Kawa mechanics that would just look at your bike and
shake their head. (also, check them out on the BBB web site for your
area).
Try
running some carb cleaner through the gas system. Check the spark
plugs...heck...replace them every season if you don't already!
My
most sincere form of advice...if you are completely apposed to a
divorce....is to take the bike down to your trusted dealership and trade
it in for a new one. Reduce the amount of money in the budget spent
on beer and steaks and new clothing (just for him) and make the payment on
a nice new or nearly new used bike of a high quality and low mileage.
Don't take the deal until you have talked the dealership into at least a
full riding season warrantee for FREE, and don't be talked into a smaller
'ladies' bike if that's not what you want. Though you
will generally get more for your bike if you sell your bike yourself
in your local paper and just tell the people who test ride it that it runs
rough, but it runs and you don't know what's wrong with it.
Best
of luck with both rough running things...
tjt (note from Mama: your point on seeking out the right dealership by
taking the time to talk extensively before handing over the bike is a good
point. As to how much time to spend trying to get an older bike to run
correctly is always difficult . . . you just want so much to see it work!
As to the hubby, Kathy I'm sure has that well in hand!)
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Friday,
March 18
Dear
VTwin Mama,
I have a 1994 Suzuki Intruder 800 that my husband bought me for my b-day.
It has stock pipes on it and I want a little more rumble. How do I punch,
or remove the baffles? Hattie in Oregon
Dear
Hattie,
Oh oh. More rumble is fine, but you need to be careful doing it.
Just removing the baffles, which are often welded into position within the
exhaust pipes, can radically alter the performance of the bike. This can
mean rejetting the carb so that the gas/air mix burns correctly as it
exits the pipes. Alternative solutions including drilling a few holes in
the baffles to boost noise or checking into new pipes . . . which yes, is
pricier, but the pipes are made for the bike include recommendations on
the proper rejetting needs.
Now,
in looking at the service manual for a friend's BMW, I don't see the
internal baffle shown in the exploded parts diagram, so I'm not sure if
the manual for your bike would include it or not. One thing you could do
(to learn more about it) is visit your local dealer's service department
to discuss the matter further. You might want to hop onto a specific
discussion forum for your made/model and see if there are riders who have
done this work before and can offer tips.
Mama
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Friday,
April 15
Dear
VTwin Mama,
My 2002 Sabre 1100 is
backfiring when I come off the throttle. The problem is increasing. Do you
have any suggestion on how to fix this? I found a small air leak in the
carburetor and tighten the screws it seemed to help some but it did not
fix it completely. California Rider
Dear
California Rider,
Backfiring is caused by gas that has not been completely
"burned" and makes it's way down the exhaust pipe (and kaboom).
Thus, head back to the basics. Check your spark plugs for fouling or crud,
or, if you just replaced them, recheck gapping, check the carb's air
filter for cleanliness, or you may need to look into readjusting the carb
itself (as it mixes the air and gas in correct proportions). Also check
that your exhaust pipe(s) are tightened and maybe re-look at the seal
where the bolts are (old seals can cause leaks here that can cause the
backfire). You might want to check the gas filter and clean or replace.
Mama
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Saturday,
April 16
Dear
VTwin Mama,
I have a 1990 Kaw Vuclan 750 -- runs good when I first start it -- after
it warms up it bogs down and shuts off like its starving for gas. It sat
for awhile . . . could the carbs be gummed up? If so, then why would it
run good when first started and then it cuts out like it ain't getting
gas? Can you help me please? Thank you. Anonymous
Dear
Anon,
Oh, the ol' bait and switch (starts, then fools you into thinking
it's gonna' run!). Hmmm . . . your gut instinct of it seems to be starving
for gas leads me to think you might have some sediment stirring up
somewhere . . . maybe the fuel filter, the gas tank or even the carb.
Adding a carb cleaner is easy enough, and checking the fuel filter
shouldn't be too big of a headache . . . and you could always completely
drain the gas tank and start over with fresh gas (I got a tank full of bad
gas for my car and the whole thing ran like sh** until I added stuff and
premium gas to straighten the mess out). Try these checks. If you're still
having problems, there's no shame in calling the service department of
your local dealer and asking for some other things to look at. The advice
is free, but I counsel that you call during non-peak hours (i.e., not
weekends!).
Mama
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Saturday,
April 16
Dear
VTwin Mama,
I have a '83 Midnight 750 Virago that seized and I put in a '82 XV 750
motor. Now the only way in get the engine to turn over is to jump the
solenoid with a screwdriver and I'm not getting any spark. Is there a
wiring diagram online somewhere and if not, do you have any suggestions?
Big Chad
Dear
Big Chad,
Boy, did your letter bring back memories . . . as in . . . my
starter switch on my '76 HD Superglide quit on me, so I jumped the
solenoid with a screwdriver for a few years before getting around to
replacing the d*mm switch (which tested good electrically, but was rotten
to the core!). You should have seen the looks I got!
The
Internet is notoriously bad for offering wiring diagrams for free, so I'd
search for the service manual. Either contact your local dealer or check
my Education Center page
for sites that offer them for sale over the Internet. $20 aftermarket,
about $60 for the factory version.
Mama
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Saturday,
April 16
Dear
VTwin Mama,
First, I just want to say I love the site. I am still fairly new to
riding. I have a 1986 450 Honda Rebel. I am currently trying to fix it up.
My Dad and I are doing a custom paint job and replacing some scratched
parts. We have run into a problem with getting the engine to shine again.
It has a lot of oxidation on it. I can not find any tools that will fit
into the groves of the motor so that I can clean and polish it. I even
bought a drummel tool, but the small buffing wheels that came with it are
still to big to fit all the way into the grooves. Any ideas would be
appreciated. Thanks for your time and the great site.
Lesa
Dear
Lesa,
Oh heck. Q-tips? Cloth at the end of a straight slot screwdriver?
Readers, any ideas?!?!?! Meanwhile, congrats on the "new" bike!
Sounds like you and your Dad are really into the project and the efforts
will be well worth it. Email a picture sometime of you and the polished up
beastie . . . we would love to see it!
Mama
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Wednesday,
April 20
Dear
VTwin Mama,
I was happy to see you up and running and currently have so little time to
ride but I am in the planning stages for a trip to Myrtle Beach for bike
week. I have a 2004 Dyna Low Rider with forward controls that I love
riding, but had a little run in with gravel recently that I am sad to say
I lost. I ended up with a bruised ego and hip and the saddle bags and
windshield seem to have taken the majority of the impact.
What
I want are engine guards but I have been unable to locate any that fit
with forward controls and Harley doesn't have anything, yet. I am looking
for someone who can fabricate them for me. I know that there just has to
be a way to make extension brackets or something similar from the pegs
outward that would allow for engine guards. Do you have any ideas or
suggestions for me? Thanks. Gidget
Dear
Gidget,
Good grief, that FXDL of yours is hard to fit! I couldn't find
anything in the aftermarket books as well for your make/model/year. My
suggestion is to open up your yellow pages and check for an independent
bike shop to see what they could fabricate or adapt. If you're in a
smaller town, hop onto the Internet and BigYellow.com
and do a search in the bigger towns near you. Readers, anyone with this
bike solve this?!
Mama
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Wednesday,
April 20
Dear
VTwin Mama and all users,
I really enjoy going through this site. I recently bought a Virago
535 made for the UK. It runs fine but the problem is that I can't seem to
get it going faster then 100 km/h which is about 60-65 mph. So I guess it
isn't fine ;) I know that this bike is in original condition. It is model
'95. I was wondering if there is any way to bypass any emission
restrictions (because this is only what comes to my mind when you say
"slow")? Someone told me that there might be a restrictor in
between the intake and carb since it is made for UK. Is it true? Please,
if anyone has any ideas, et me know. Biker Mit
Dear
Biker Mit,
Having no idea, I once again called on my Aussie mate Kevin who
knows so much international-wise. His response:
To
put it bluntly...Terri (Kevin's wife) used to
have a 250 Virago and that was well capable of doing 110 kph with the both
of us on it. I have ridden a 535, it can do over 140 kph quite easily. So
it's certainly not a restrictor problem.
I
would get a mechanic at a bike shop to check the problem. If the mech at a
shop is the one who originally suggested the restrictor idea...go to
another shop and see another mech. I am leaning more towards the idea that
its an air filter problem or that perhaps it has a butterfly switch in the
carb and the butterfly is not opening all the way at wider throttle
openings. A 535 should defiantly be capable of well above 100kph.
If
the chap (or is a woman?) who wrote in to you
has yahoo messenger on their computer...go to UK Bikers Room, under United
Kingdom User Rooms list...and look for Mike GS 1000 or Dances with
Frogs...Froggy owns a bike shop, Mike has been building bikes for
years...or just ask the question to the room in general when it is full,
heaps of the guys will have various answers I am sure. I would also
suggest he go on a Net Search...Virago 535, acceleration
problems...or...Virago 535 problems...and see what comes up. There is also
a Virago owners club in the UK and they are also on the net. Both links
below are for different UK virago Owners clubs.
http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~bryanp/virago1.htm
http://www.vsoc.org.uk/
Good
luck, Kevin
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Saturday,
April 23
Dear
VTwin Mama,
Help! Do they make an aftermarket exhaust system for a 2001 Suzuki GZ250?
Riding in Washington
Dear
Riding in WA,
In checking my aftermarket catalogs I noted that most companies
concentrate on the cruising and touring bikes (think 500cc and up).
Readers who have knowledge of the GZ250 . . . any aftermarket sources you
would recommend?!
Mama
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Sunday, April
24
For
Anderson whose bike's turn signals only work after riding for 4-5 miles:
I
had the opposite problem on my XS 650: the turn signals worked fine until
it warmed up and then they would quit. I thought that it was the relay
because it is mounted right above the engine. I tried a new one with no
luck. After further investigation I found that the connector in the
headlight from the switch was not making proper contact I cleaned the
contacts and now they work fine. Just another place to look. Hope this
helps. Tim (note from Mama:
electrical connections can really wreck havoc but it's well within the
KISS principle of bike repair and quick to look at and resolve. Thanks for
sharing!)
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Sunday,
April 24
Dear
VTwin Mama,
I have a 1996 Intruder VS1400. I just picked it up at a great price and
the bike looks awesome. The only issue I am having is the clutch is not
working. Now coming out of the turn signal control box next to the clutch
lever is a wire that is cut. Can you tell me where this wire is supposed
to go? Does this attach to the clutch handle? If not what is the wire for?
Any info would be great. Big Red
Dear
Big Red,
Sorry, but I don't know enough about this bike to advise you
correctly. I would advise that you pick up the maintenance/service manual
as quickly as possible so that you have specific information on this
year/make/model bike. The clutch section would advise you on
troubleshooting things and even someone not well versed in reading
electrical schematics should be able to locate the turn signal control box
on the diagram and see if one of the wires goes to the clutch area. If
this bike has a cable clutch assembly (then no electrical wires would be
going to it), and the clutch cable is properly attached at both ends and
not stretched to it's max limit, I'd be looking at the clutch friction
plates to see if they have frozen (open the cover and you should see them
move slightly when you pull in on the cable). I don't now anything about
hydraulic clutches, so it would be back to the service manual for me to
learn more. Good luck!
Mama
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Thursday,
April 28
Dear
VTwin Mama,
Can you help me find out what is the problem with my bike? It starts up ok
but missing slightly on one cylinder when hot and cuts out and will not
start. Would be grateful if you could help me out as I have ran out of
ideas. I have a 1996 Virago SV535. Ann Sainsbury
Dear
Ann,
Hmmmm . . . I'd start with double checking the condition of the
sparkplugs (deposits and correct gapping) and even would consider changing
out the spark plug wires. Have you tried adding carb cleaner to the gas
tank? Readers, I appear to be lost on this one!
Mama
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Friday,
April 29
Dear
VTwin Mama,
Just bought a Suzuki C50 Lehman Trike (my first bike) and have had it only
time enough to put 4 miles on it (the other 60 miles was put on by the
dealer as he delivered it to me) and now I have to put in a new clutch.
The problem started as I was going up a hill at about 45 mph and ran over
some road debris in the road way and instead of downshifting I up shifted.
The motorcycle shop wants me to pay for repair of the bike. Do you think
in your opinion that what I did would cause the clutch to go out like
that? JMS
Dear
JMS,
It doesn't seem to make sense that by going to a higher gear on an
uphill it should have damaged the clutch. Heck, we've all rode around in
the "wrong" gear at some instance, and the worse we should
expect is poor performance in power (the bike would chug or over rev, but
why would this k.o. the clutch assembly?). I would re-review the wording
of your warranty policy and if there is a clause that states they won't
fix something "done" by the owner, then have them put into
writing exactly how they think you damaged the clutch by your action.
Mama
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Friday,
April 29
For Ann who is having
problems with her Virago SV535:
Oh, dear
ladies! What I could tell you about Viragos. Ann, many people,
including myself have had the same old problem. Please do yourself a favor
and join the online Virago
Owners' Club. We spend all our spare time helping each other out with
the little quirks of these wonderful machines. We will be glad to listen
in more detail to your problems. Also, I advise getting a Clymer manual
to help find your way around these pretty beasties. Do I sound
partial? Well....with good reason. Hope to see Ann in our club soon.
You can learn all about TCIs and carbs, and oil, and more .....
Mary Martin-Gay (note from Mama: thanks for
bringing up this excellent site! I agree that sites specific to the
make/model bike can be a real source of support. And I always agree that
EVERY bike owner should have the appropriate aftermarket or factory
service manual. So much info, even for non-techies! I've got a great
source and I've included the link below. )
Repair Manuals for Most Vehicles
Visit RepairManual.com for all your
repair manual needs.
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Saturday,
April 30
Dear
VTwin Mama,
I would like to know if I can rake the front end of a 2004 Sportster (40
degrees). Anonymous
Dear
Anon,
Yes, and here is a site
that shows you step by step for a 38 degree rake. Very detailed
instructions. I'll note that when you go to the link you might get all
sorts of weird pop-up ads, but just close them and you'll see the actual
site!
Mama
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Monday,
May 2
Hello Mama,
I took my carb off of my '01 Sportster to clean it and now it falls off of
the bike. I pushed it on hard, but after a couple minutes the carb falls
off. Can you help? Kerry Jones
Dear
Kerry,
I'm afraid I've never removed a carb in my life (and now don't have
any bike manuals to grab a clue). On the Internet I'm picking up that
there is a clamp that holds the carb on. Meanwhile, I've emailed a VTwin
Mama Mentor in hopes that she has the manual and can tell you the
details. Readers with this bike, please open your manuals and help me out!
Mama
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Wednesday,
May 4
Dear
VTwin Mama,
My ride is a '94 750 Vulcan. It has developed this problem of when you
have the petcock ON it seems to flood out the engine and kill it, but when
I put it on Reserve, it runs fine till it runs out of fuel. I have talked
to few service departments and they have said it needs to have the petcock
rebuilt. What are your thoughts on this? Need your help.
Kandra
Dear
Kandra,
To start off, let's understand the fuel petcock. This is from Dan's
MC site:
"Now
about fuel petcocks. The standard petcock has ON-OFF-RES (RESERVE). OFF
is, well, off. ON takes fuel from a tube that sticks up from the petcock
body into the tank. When the fuel level goes below the top of the tube,
the carb runs out of gas until you turn on the reserve. The RES draws fuel
from the bottom of the tank. Both tubes usually have fine wire filter
screens on them and another screen in the petcock itself."
So,
the petcock position simply determines which part of the gas tank it's
drawing from!
I'm
thinking the bike isn't dying because of flooding, but may be dying
because the carb isn't getting enough gas from the ON position. It's
possible that debris has clogged the filter screens Dan references (trust
me on this . . . it doesn't take much to clog it . . . and even a little
icky from the gas you bought or a small inner tank flake of rust can cause
problems). There could also be something stuck in the tube running from
the tank to the petcock.
You'll
need to get the service manual for your specific year/make/model bike (if
you don't have one) for correct inspection procedures and locations of
filter screens (the link to one of my favorite sites to purchase a manual
is below . . . they have both aftermarket and factory manuals). I'd
do this before paying someone to rebuild the petcock. Mama
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Saturday,
May 7
Dear
VTwin Mama,
I have a 1997 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 and I want to make it louder but I am
financially restrained because I am a college student. I have been looking
around the web and read a lot of articles saying to drill holes in the
baffles or to remove the baffles. I know that if I remove the baffles I
will most likely have to re-jet. But I was wondering if I drilled holes in
them, if that would hurt the bike any? I have a friend wondering the same
thing about his 2003 Suzuki Intruder 800. Thanks.
Jerry
Dear
Jerry,
Any time you alter the exhaust system you run into the possibility
that it will alter other elements. According to the Vance & Hines
site, "We do not recommend the removal of the baffles due to the
large loss in torque and midrange you will experience." But then you
noted you didn't want to do this!
In
drilling holes, it's important to understand that although the bike will
be louder, it won't necessarily give you a deeper, throaty sound. Just
wanted to point that out. I found this posting which brings in a note of
caution, "First, once you drill out the end caps, you really have no
idea what it will sound like. It may sound like crap! A 1/4 inch hole is
pretty small, and if you look at aftermarket exhaust systems that sound
good, you'll notice there are NO small holes at the end of the exhaust
pipes. Just really big ones. So instead of getting that sweet "boom
boom boom" sound you're after, you may get a "piff piff piff"
or a tinny "bang bang bang" type of sound. And once the holes
are drilled, there's no patching them up. Keep in mind that drilling out
the pipes will change the tune of the engine and diminish performance, if
only a little bit. You may also get some backfiring on trailing throttle
(while slowing down with the throttle closed)."
So,
it's impossible to calculate how the bike is going to sound if you start
drilling. Given that there is the possibility you might not like it, and
really don't have the money to fix it if it's not right, I'd leave it
alone! You could always leave bike catalogs laying around with appropriate
pages marked for a future present?!?!?! Mama
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Sunday,
May 8
Dear
VTwin Mama,
Hi. I'm a college student and I just purchased my first bike, a yellow '97
Honda Rebel. Your site was really helpful in providing me with advice and
information. I was hoping you could help me with something. The woman I
bought the bike from couldn't remember when she had last bought tires. The
tires have good tread and the bikes rides fine, but there are cracks on
the sides of the tires. Do they need to be replaced? I don't know anyone
else who rides and I haven't really established a relationship with a
dealer so I'm hoping you can help me. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Colleen Feeney
Dear
Colleen,
Cracks on sidewalls are cause for concern, especially if this bike
really wasn't ridden for some time. It's vital to recheck those cracks and
see if there are any little bulges as well!
I
find this an interesting analogy: turn your hand palm up . . . that's
roughly the area that the bike's tire is contacting the ground. This
little reality check helps you realize how important good tires are!
Trust
me on this, whether you are a new or experienced rider, one of the worst
things to happen is a tire blow out at any speed. You just DON'T want it
too happen. Loss of control of the bike is NOTHING to sneeze at. I would
definitely open up the Yellow Pages, find the local dealer, and get this
taken care of. Mama
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Tuesday,
May 10
Dear
VTwin Mama,
I'm looking to buy a Virago in well kept condition but has shocking tappet
noise. Unable to find workshop manual so any information on adjustment
would be great if able to be adjusted and pictures would be helpful.
Matt
Dear
Matt,
Hop over to this page on Dan's
MC site: Valve Clearance Adjustment. Check my Education
Center page for Internet sites that offer service manuals for sale.
Aftermarket about $20, factory version about $70. One source is below. Mama
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Tuesday,
May 10
For
Jerry who wants louder pipes but can't afford to mess them up by
modifying:
G'day Jerry,
Petra's right on with her info, sometimes the holes will make the bike
sound better, sometimes not.
BUT...what you can do is go to a wreckers, find some used but still good
mufflers that will fit on your Vulcan, buy those and drill away to your
hearts content. If it does not work you have only spent a little bit of
money to start with.
I suggest drilling four small holes around the pipe at intervals from
each other.
If that does not improve the sound, pick two of the holes and drill them
out to a bigger size. It's trail and error.
And if you don't want to drill . . . what a lot of Aussie riders do (and I have done it myself several times)
is to get a straight metal bar about the thickness of your finger, long
enough to go all the way down the muffler. Measure bar on outside of muffler first, you want at least an extra six
inches so you can pull it back out. Put the bar in the center hole of
the muffler, get a hammer, knock the bar down the muffler, it will
either flatten or smash through the baffles on the way down. Don't be
gentle, it needs a fair bit of force to penetrate through the baffles.
At the halfway point stop and see what the bike now sounds like. If you
like it stop. If not, carry on all the way to the end of the muffler.
I did this with my Kawa 750 LTD and both my 650 Yamaha's. The Yamahas
ran fine, the Kawa bubbled a bit when downshifting and letting clutch
out.
But all three bikes sounded "meaty" and solid. I did not
notice a change in the performance of the Kawa, but both the Yamas ran a
lot better. Top speed was the same but I gained a few extras kph in acceleration.
Also . . . have a look around the wreckers and you might even find some
hollow pipes you can try out. Ask the guys if you can slip them on for
a sound test while you are there.
A note for all: If you have a chain driven bike and are not that
concerned with actual top speed, he best (cheapest) thing you can do
to increase acceleration is to fit a one tooth smaller sprocket on the
front.
Good Luck mate . . . Cheers,
Kevin in Oz (note from Mama: thanks for the expanded view on this! )
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Wednesday,
May 11
Dear
VTwin Mama,
Hi, I just bought a Harley Softail classic FLSTSC. It has dual exhaust and
unfortunately for me I exhausted all my funds to get it. I love the bike
but it is not loud at all . . . almost sounds Japanese. I was told the
baffles could be removed but that the carbs would have to be re-jetted. I
am capable of the work just unsure of the jets and if I can even take the
baffles out of the stock mufflers. Also, how do I do it? Hope you can help
and great web site.
C.
Dear
C.,
Glad you like the site! Ok, here's the cheap way . . . call the
local dealer's service department (when they are not jammed with customers
on weekends) and ask! The main thing you want to find out is if the
baffles are welded in . . . that would be a biggee at this point! It turns
out that asking is free!
If
you want to go the "self help" route, I'm afraid the first thing
I'm going to do is have you spend money! No, I'm not being mean, but
you've got to have the exploded views of the exhaust pipes to see how the
baffles are attached/inserted. I'd point out an Internet site for you, but
this type of information is notoriously NOT posted. So, it's time to get
the service manual. I'm afraid that for 2005 models, it would be rare to
find an aftermarket manual (Clymers, etc.) for $20, so it's about $62 for
the official Harley factory version. Check my Education
Center page for Internet sites that offer these, or check with your
dealer . . . I see some sites are backordered at this point.
As
to rejetting the carbs, hop onto this Harley
Rider Technical FAQ page, scroll down, and you'll see an FAQ that goes
into detail for your bike (but it's the 2000 model). Still, should give
you the clues you're looking for. Again, it would be advantageous to have
the service manual so you're not mucking about without a clue. Mama
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Tuesday,
May 17
Dear
VTwin Mama,
I have a '93 Virago 535 and I need to adjust the clutch. How can I do
that?
Juan Gutierrez
Dear
Juan,
It depends on what you need to do exactly. If the point where the
clutch lever engages and disengages the clutch is too far out or in when
you pull the lever (rather than the middle section), then look where the
cable attaches to the clutch lever and you'll find an adjustment . . .
just loosen the nut, screw the cable ending in or out, and retighten the
nut. If the adjustment makes you back out that cable end past the half way
point, then you need to follow the cable down to where it attaches to the
clutch pushrod. There you'll find another adjustment point. If this
doesn't get the job done, then either the cable has finally stretched out
(yes, this is normal) and it needs to be replaced or you may have an issue
with the clutch basket itself, which houses the clutch plates and
associated "stuff." It's always good to have the service manual
when working on a bike, so check my Education
Center page for Internet sites that offer them. Mama
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Thursday,
May 19
Dear
VTwin Mama,
I love the site. I got directed here when I was searching for info on my
wet fouling problem (yours was the first clear answer that wasn't an
advertisement for some other commercial site, btw, thank you). (you're
welcome!)
I won't keep you long because I'm a guy : ), (one
of these days I have to get the "Men Welcome" message up again!)
but... I just wanted to ask a question, and also comment on the note you
wrote for Rose. First the comment: IMHO, one of the best riders I knew was
a 5' nothing, 100 pound soaking wet lady with a Superglide. I remember her
showing up at my house in the middle of a snowstorm that kept most cars
off the street.
Now the desperate question: M. Wright in VA in her
picture has what looks like an old KZ as her starter bike. I'm piecing
together an old 1979 KZ 750, and I'm having a real hard time finding
anything other than OEM parts. I didn't see an area for direct connections
and I didn't want to bother too many people, as I'm not really the
audience for your great site. (sure you are, you're
here aren't you, and I welcome all questions!) I hit Dennis Kirk,
JP Cycles, Bikebandit, but they are really only geared for KZ 1000s for
that year or 1980s and up (on Kaws at least). Can ya hep a brudda out? : )
Thanks again for the info.
Howard Gelles
Dear
Howard,
Glad you like the site and have already found info that helped!
Yes, men ARE welcome, it's just the site was originally created for women
who needed a safe haven to ask questions and share. It's apparent that
many men crave the same kind of place, so you're in good company here!
Yup,
it's harder to find solutions for aftermarket parts for older bikes. Hmmmm
. . . ok, here's one: it's the Old
Bike Barn (a link recommended by a reader). Try that! Just as a
reminder, I've got tons of links on the Useful
Sites page . . . who knows what else you'll find! Mama
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Thursday,
May 19
Dear
VTwin Mama,
I bought my son the JR 80 2 cycle new in 2001. Service has been done to
the bike on a regular basis. 2 weeks ago the bike quit starting up. It has
a new plug in it, it is getting fire, but it won't make a sound. The plug
is also getting fuel. What else can it possibly be? I'd like to think I
knew a little about a motorcycle, but this has got me stumped. I would
like to fix it myself since the repair shops are pretty pricey these days.
Thanks for all the information you can give me and thanks for your time.
Blair Stone
Dear
Blair,
I guess I'm a little bit confused when you say it's getting fire
but won't make a sound. Is the starter turning over? If not, then maybe
the kill switch is off, the battery is dead, or the starter is shot, a
fuse is blown, the start button has shorted, or something else has
happened in the electrical system.
If
the starter is turning over, I'd check the gas. Did you drain it last
season . . . if not, it could be turpentine by now and needs to be
drained, new fuel added, and I'd consider a carb cleaner that you add to
the gas as well. Carb could be gummed up. You say it's getting fuel, but
is it enough fuel? Perhaps the gas filter has clogged.
If
you don't have the service manual for this bike, click on the link below
and get one! Lots of interesting information and comprehensive
troubleshooting guide. Mama
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Thursday,
May 19
Dear
VTwin Mama,
We own an 8 month old Intruder 800 and it
was almost impossible to start the day after we bought it. With
great difficulty wed get it started, run it for a very long time and it
would stall and hiccup all the way back to the dealer. We took it in twice
for the same problem. I asked Suzuki
Canada
to recommend a more competent dealer. The recommended dealer was
able to drill out a plug in the choke or carburetor which is built
in for
California
emissions standards. The bike starts a bit easier now
but it is
still a pain to start we have to force the choke out and hold it
pulled out for several minutes to avoid stalling. I also find it is
not as comfortable to ride as it seemed in the show room and doesnt
handle as well as my other bikes of similar wheel base and style.
Im also a bit annoyed because it doesnt have a centre stand.
It also looks like the battery will be a pain to get to.
If anyone knows where I can buy a centre stand for it, Id be grateful
for the information.
Gwen
Dear
Gwen,
I applaud your repeated attempts to make a new bike work for you,
but if I were you, I'd be reviewing lemon laws for Canada. I'd also demand
that the owner of the dealership review your file and either fix it, take
it back, or trade it in. This should be done in writing, chronicling the
problems . . . mailed by registered letter and with a copy to Suzuki
Canada.
All
I can say about the battery placement is that many bikes have batteries
tucked away in such a way that it requires more work to get to them. Sigh.
I guess the point is that you just learn the steps to dismantle stuff
around it so you can get to it. It becomes routine after awhile.
I
have to admit that I've never been asked if a center stand can be added
after the fact. Readers, any ideas on this one? Mama
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Saturday,
May 21
For Gwen who is
looking for a center stand for her Intruder 800:
The underneath battery on the Intruder is actually very
easy to get out, much better than on many other bikes.
Centre stands...on a cruiser? Good luck. You don't have
ground clearance for one, if you somehow manage to fit one ...and I don't
think you will...it will scrape badly on corners. Take note of the fact
that cruisers and choppers do not ever come with centre stands. And you
say it does not handle as well as your other bikes? Well Intruders are not
meant for fast mountain roads. I had a 1400 and it was just as good on
fast curves as any other cruiser is likely to be.
Starting Intruders can be a pain, cable operated choke,
the cables on the Intruder are long and get twisted, the carb float often
seems to stick on some of them also. I gave up using the choke and just
held throttle open to start, worked much better. The standard pull back
bars on mine made the ride uncomfortable, try four to six inch risers and
drag bars instead. Hope this helps. Kevin in Oz (note from Mama:
Gwen noted in a subsequent email that she read a letter on my site from a
reader with the same bike who was having problems getting the bike onto
the center stand . . . leading us to believe there is one available. Yet,
I can't find it. Your input clarifies some things to consider. Gwen, if
you need a center stand for maintenance tasks, then consider looking at
this site: http://www.cyclelifts.com/apps.htm.)
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Continue
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