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2005 (May 22 to June 28) Sunday, May 22 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Sandy, CDI stands for Capacitive Discharge Ignition and according to my Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance book, "were the first real electronic ignition systems." More to the point: "the current flowing through the CDI primary induces a high voltage surge in the secondary side of the coil followed by a nice fat spark at the spark plug." Hmmmm . . . look in your book for the location of the CDI unit and make sure the connections are still intact! – Mama Tuesday, May 24 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Michael, Wednesday, May 25 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Mike, Here is a review from an owner of the same bike (you'll need to scroll down to the fourth letter to see what he did). On this page you'll also find sound clips for various pipes, installation guides and dealers for the Roadhouse Brand. Yes, you could drill holes in the baffle or remove the baffle altogether, but you'll need to get the service manual (if you don't have it) for exploded diagrams so you know where you're at! You start with a pattern of about four holes evenly spaced, small at first, and test the sound. You'll probably need to re-jet. If it goofs up, you're back to getting new pipes. As Kevin noted in a previous letter, you may want to search for used stock pipes for your bike (cheap) and try it on that instead of mucking up your nice ones! If you need the manual, check my Education Center page for Internet sites that offer them . . . about $20-25 for the aftermarket version or $70 for the factory version. Otherwise, hop onto a specific discussion forum for your bike . . . you'll find them by typing in "discussion forum for Honda VTX1300" in a search engine. The Internet is known for not posting this type of specific information unless a particular owner has taken the time to document stuff like this. – Mama Friday, May 27 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
R, It usually takes the aftermarket manual companies one or two years to come out with a version (about $20-25) but the factory service manual is available for $59.95 at the link below. Just choose Motorcycle, then choose your year, make, model and scroll down and you'll see it! Sorry the price is so high . . . I'm not sure your dealer would have something less expensive, but why not call the dealer's parts department and double check!
Depending on which light bulb you are trying to change, it's usually just a matter of removing the lens cover with a straight slot or phillips screwdriver, twisting the bulb out of its socket, noting the bulb number, and getting a replacement at the dealer. Good luck . . . I know you're just getting started on working on your bike, but you won't believe the confidence you'll get as you begin to learn more about your bike and doing the simple, routine maintenance that a bike demands. – Mama Friday, May 27 Dear
VTwin Mama, Needless to say I took it right home and called for help- my stepdad told me my chain is loose and its an easy fix -- just adjust the screws in the back of the bike -- but oh, be careful to make sure each one is moved the same distance. So my question is this: I looked at it, doesn't look too hard, but is it really something I should do on my own or just take to a shop? Is there any serious danger to making the adjustment myself? One ore thing- any women techs in the Seattle area? Would love to get some work done but I don't particularly feel like getting screwed by the dealers around here. – Having Visions of Going Head Over Teakettle Dear
Teakettle, This means you absolutely, positively need to get the service manual for your year/make/model. Did you see the link in the other letter posted today?! That's a good place to order one online. Because your bike is older, you'll also want to inspect the sprockets that the chain in riding on . . . rounded out teeth . . . rather than ones with a sharper pointed top . . . means it's time to change them out as well! This takes a little bit more know-how, but once you have the service manual, you can read up on it and see if it's something you want to tackle. More to the point, to keep your bike in tip-tip shape, there are routine things you should be doing so that the bike doesn't surprise you again! Remember, it's just a mechanical beastie and needs your help to keep you riding safely! Unfortunately, my Women Wrenchers page does not list a gal in the Seattle area. If anyone knows of a woman mechanic, dealer or independent, let me know! – Mama Saturday, May 28 For Gwen who is searching for a center stand for her Intruder 800: Sounds
like Kevin might be a little biased towards sports bikes!
Don’t discount center stands on cruisers – they even make one for my
Valkyrie! This
is the website. Tuesday, May 31 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Charlene, I was unable to determine the exact carburetor that is on your bike, but almost all new bikes use a CV type carb. In older bikes, the throttle cable was directly attached to a carb part called the slide, which increased or decreased a variable venturi size, changing the amount of the fuel/air mix into the engine. On a CV type carb, the throttle is directly connected to a butterfly valve located in that venturi which through a series of "stuff" controls the slide's movement. From the Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance (my new Bible): "The neat thing is that the slide will only rise in proportion to the engine's demands. If you grab a big handful of throttle at idle, the slide will only move upwards as engine vacuum dictates (that's part of the "stuff"), In other words, engine speed and the carburetor's slide position are always in balance, which is turn provides the optimum fuel mixture for every situation, at least in theory." That said, a backfire in upshifting generally indicates that the fuel to air mix is too rich (higher fuel, less air) and there is unburned fuel. If it was happening when you decelerate, that would be a too lean (more air, less fuel) mixture, but you didn't mention this. This is classic pop and crack noise. Even if the bike is running fine at idle, you should be able to snap the throttle and still have a smooth running system. It's possible that the idle mixture is slightly off, but here's the bad news: the mixture screw is set at the factory and then sealed according to federal guidelines and it's against the law to remove the sealing cap and change the setting on a street bike. Many carbs use several adjusting screws to properly set the carb's fuel/air mix in different operating ranges (low, mid, high for example). So you could have one of more that are slightly off. So, again, take the bike to the dealer and demonstrate the problem. Then enter into a discussion of what adjustments are possible. A bike that backfires is never a good situation and needs to be corrected. – Mama Sunday, June 5 Hi
VTwin Mama, Dear
FLT Man, Tuesday, June 7 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Terry, Wednesday, June 8 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Jeanne, Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
John, Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Lora, Friday, June 10 For Lora who is looking to fix up a 1984 Honda Magna V30: There are no after market parts available for the V30. Way to old. You can change the suspension out and go with I believe it is Progessive springs. If you can find someone who can do custom chrome sheet metal work you can change the side covers. Another option is like you say, eBay. I have found the odd thing for my bike there (V45 1983). There is a guy who sells microfiche on eBay . . . maybe get the fiche for the v45, v65 and v30 and compare part numbers so that you what is exchangeable. – Wanda at Lethbridge Motor Sports (note from Mama: thanks for the heads up on this!) Friday, June 10 For John who has a rough idling Sporty 883: I too have a Sportster 883. The rough idle, even after it is warmed up, has caused me to stall or put too much on the throttle to prevent stalling. I dropped the bike twice (in my driveway) and drove through a biker bar fence taking a left from a stop (not too embarrassing) due to this problem. I brought the bike to the dealer and had the idle adjusted. It runs a little better but I was told that the Sporty "just runs like that" and if I want to improve the way it handles, I should invest in some new parts, namely a SE A/C Kit; a Thunderslide Kit; and some V&H Straitshots. I plan on doing the renovations at my 1000 mile check up. If John would like to adjust the idle himself, it is not hard to locate or adjust. It is not under lock, it is directly behind the air cleaner on the right side and faces outward at a 45 degree angle. All that is required is a Phillips head screwdriver. The kind mechanic on duty at the biker bar where I took out the fence was kind enough to show me. – Denise (note from Mama: omigosh, what a horribly "public" kind of thing to happen, but you're handling the experience with class and learning something along the way! Have you hopped onto a Sporty discussion forum to determine if the information you received on the bike's running is accurate? I'm not nay saying it . . . just wondering out loud. Thanks for the more specific info on locating the idle adjusting screw . . . I work from a guide that is more general in nature and it's impossible to have all the details of every bike at my fingertips.) Dear
VTwin Mama, (I wrote Fred back and asked if he wears a helmet and speed details) I do wear a helmet. I'm 52 and a Firefighter/EMT for many years, having been to countless motorcycle accidents in the course of work, a helmet is just part of my clothes. The "whistling" (for lack of a better word) seems to be when I'm accelerating on the highway. – Fred Dear
Fred, Seriously, I just did a 2600 mile trip in the car and thought I was having a problem with the right front wheel when I finally (!) realized that if the passenger window was open at just the right level it made a grating wind noise that sounded just like it was coming from the front tire. That took a while to figure out . . . meanwhile I was freaking that my car was about to disintegrate. The reason I asked about wearing a helmet is that I noticed on my "new" 200 1 BMW, which I just got, that I was hearing what I thought was weird noises as well, but when I cocked my head to the side, they dissipated (and I wear a helmet). So it could just be how the bike's sounds are reaching you with the helmet at a certain angle upon a certain speed. Or not. Next I would of course check for any covers that are even a bit loose or have wiggle room (even reflectors, wiring that's not secure by tie wraps, etc.). They could be catching air at higher speeds. I'm guessing you already thought of that. Ok Intruder 1400 riders out there, have you noticed something similar? – Mama Dear Mama, Dear
Sandi, Tuesday, June 14 For Sandi who is looking for someone to shave down her seat: For seat shaving, upholstery shop can do foam shaving. We have quite a few who can do that in my town. (none of our bike shops do this). – Wanda. (note from Mama: thanks for pointing out this excellent idea!) Tuesday, June 28 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
No Name, Tuesday, June 28 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Don, Wednesday, June 29 Dear
VTwin Mama, When I expressed my determination to get a motorcycle endorsement, my friends (they are riders themselves) showed me their concerns and worries. Luckily, my soon-to-be-husband (s-t-b-h) is very supportive and understanding my passion to motorcycles. (He says he is proud of me!) I took MSF/ABATE course in April and got my endorsement last month. It was a great feeling of accomplishment. My dream of 20 years finally came true! I’m still a bit nervous with cornering and turning at low speed (in fact, I dropped my bike 3 times. No scars on my bike or me--knock, knock), but I’m loving riding my ‘85 Rebel 250. I especially like going 60-65 mph on a highway stretch! One concern I have is, however, my bike doesn’t feel stable at high speed. I understand the wind effect. Actually, I put a windshield on my bike as was suggested at “Rebel Discussion Forum” for this same question. My upper body doesn’t feel so much stressed by wind as before, but I still feel the rear tire “drifting or wobbling” kind of feeling. I didn’t notice anything like that when I was on the back of my s-t-b-h on the same bike. Is it supposed to be that way when you ride at high speed? Or does it happen because the bike (and me) is light weight? I would appreciate if you could share your experiences and what you hear from other light weight riders with me. Ladies who ride bigger bikes are very encouraging to me. Eventually, I would like to grow up from my 250 and move on to a bigger bike. I’m trying to convince my s-t-b-h to buy a new bike so that I will get his Savage. Sincerely, – Nagako Dear
Nagako, It's true you are on a lightweight bike with little personal weight, but that rear tire wobble has me highly concerned. Immediately check the tire pressure (both under and over inflation are dangerous) and check the tire wear. When the chain wears it becomes loose and is adjusted by undoing adjustment bolts, taking up some of the chain slack (but not all, and which sometimes means kicking the tire out a bit) and then retightening everything. This must be done by precise steps, otherwise, the chain does not run centered on the sprockets (whose teeth could also be worn down) and if the adjustments are not made equally to both sides of the tire, the whole wheel could be out of alignment. This would be more noticeable at high speeds. Either get that bike to the local dealer for specific service or purchase the service manual for your bike so you can read up on the steps. Because your bike is 20 years old, it's time to take a really good look at this! Please do not ride the bike until you've got this checked out . . . your safety is vitally important! – Mama Thursday, June 30 Dear
VTwin Mama, The dealer did not do the valves, but did everything else. I questioned why the valves were not done and was told by the tech and the service mgr that at 600 miles the valves would not need adjustment. The service manager told me today that with his 30+ experience and the number of Volusias and Boulevards they have worked on, that the only time they have found the valves need adjustment is when the bike was used under extreme, hard riding conditions, lots of wide open throttle; which is considered quite abusive. Since there are no performance issues or noise from the motor they recommend having them inspected around 1200 miles. They could have easily done the inspection and added $210 to the bill, but they didn't. So, do you feel they are being honest and sincere, or sneaky and conniving?? ARRGghh..!!! Also, I know of someone who has a C50 and did the valves himself. He says that you should hear the clicking of the valves. Is this true?? I'm no mechanic by any means. Thanks again and have a great day!!! – Baltimore, Maryland Dear
Baltimore, This is always a controversial issue. Most manufactures spec valve adjustment/ inspection intervals that tend to be on the conservative side, they do this to protect themselves from warranty issues. Most dealers have a pretty good feel for what's going on, so in this case I'd trust their judgment. As an aside, many manufactures have increased their inspection intervals after the bike has been on the market awhile and some sort of service history established. Since your letter writer mentions no running problems I think he/she is good to go. BTW, typically a tight valve creates hard starting, poor idling, back firing and low power, and eventually lost compression. If the guy is really worried, I'd suggest he take the bike in and have the valves checked, but the bottom line is that the valves are unlikely to need any attention. Last thought, last year my race engine, a 600cc Rotax went the whole season without a single valve adjustment, although I do check them every 4th race. Take care, – Mark Thursday, June 30 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Reese, "Problem solved. Removed oil tank and in the tank out nipple to oil pump, a piece of junk had gotten in and stuck shutting off the oil." Thanks for sharing and glad you found what happened! – Mama |
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