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2005 (July to . . . August 24) Friday, July 1 For John who has a rough idling Sporty 883: I just put the Vance & Hines sideshots with the Screaming Eagle air kit on my '05 883 Sporty and let me tell you what a difference!! It doesn't idle rough anymore, it doesn't hesitate, it has increased the horsepower and those pipes sound great!!!!!!! My hubby has an Ultra chopper with an 112 cubic S&S and the Vance & Hines slashcuts on his bike and my bike is still louder. People are always surprised to hear my bike is an 883 when they just assume it is a 1200. So, the cost for the pipes and the air kit are, in my opinion, well worth the cost!! – LeeAnne Taggart (note from Mama: thanks for chiming in on this one!) Friday, July 1 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
David, Hmmmm . . . my eyes started glazing over as I read his chapter to answer your questions. But, I persevered and here's some basics: the rectifier converts AC to DC (DC is what is stored in the battery for use) and the regulator makes sure that the DC is ripple free at a fixed voltage. "The units themselves are normally sealed into a finned, aluminum case." For most bikes, look at the front of the bike, behind the wheel, and mounted to the frame. It looks like a small box with heat fins. I would start by checking the electrical connections for no corrosion and a tight fit. Remember the KISS principle. Then you could use a voltmeter across the battery terminals to check for charging, "something like 14.5 volts at 3,000 rpm ." As a sidenote, following KISS, recheck your battery connections for correct polarity, fluid levels, etc. If you feel it necessary, contact your local dealer to see if you bring that unit in they could test it in the shop for you, as the units can be on the pricey side (over $100 for some). Otherwise, you'll need the service manual to walk you through more specifics, including the wiring diagram so you can trace the wires to the battery, etc. Good luck! – Mama Thursday, July 7 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Susan, So, the quick thing to do is call or visit the local dealer's service department and get their input. Otherwise, splurge on the service manual (about $20-$25 for the aftermarket version), so you can see an exploded diagram of the tank mounting and order the correct new parts. You can find these online by visiting my Education Center page. Or . . . yes, there is another possibility . . . visit Bike Bandit, click on OEM Parts, enter your year/make/model, select fuel tank, and it will show you an exploded view. Then order! I'm thinking this is going to take care of things. – Mama
Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Wanda, Otherwise, it's possible that the clutch basket, containing the clutch springs and drive plates, needs attention. Most older bikes have wet clutches that need to be bathed in oil, and even the oil can get old and gum up, or the springs need to be re-tensioned so the plates can come together to engage everything. For all of this you'll need the service manual.. Don't forget that most local dealer's service departments don't mind noodling out ideas with you . . . at least giving you a "list" of things you should look at given the symptoms. – Mama Friday, July 8 For Fred whose Intruder is whistling at higher speeds: The whistling noise that Fred is referring to is perfectly normal. It is a harmonic generated in the exhaust when the exhaust pressure and volume of air are sustained at high levels. It is not the only bike that does this: the Valkyrie and a handful of other bikes (mostly multis; V -Twins don't generally do it as they tend to have longer strokes) are known to 'whistle; or 'whine' at high speeds or under heavy acceleration. Personally, I rather like it-- think 'afterburners!' ;) Nor is this phenomenon confined to bikes. Many diesels do it (massive exhaust pressure on a big diesel), and perhaps the most famous example was factory exhaust on an original Volkswagen Beetle. Generally, this noise is not something that you hear without paying attention, as on motorcycles, wind noise and engine and exhaust noise tend to drown it out. However, some bikes are unusually quite in these areas, and an astute (or worried) observer will be able to discern it. Hope that helps settle Fred's nerves a bit. – Duke Bushido (note from Mama: I love learning! Thanks for sharing these observations . . . I'm sure many reading this post will learn something as well!) Monday, July 11 For Wanda whose bike was running fine but now shifting into gear isn't working: I have a 250 Virago and have a very simple suggestion. I had the same problem after working on my clutch cable and it took a pretty good while to figure out what was happening and boy, was my face red! I now subscribe to the KISS method (keep it simple stupid). Check to see if the kickstand is up. Sounds silly but it will not shift out of neutral and stay running if the kickstand is down. It is designed that way. Please tell Wanda that I wish her the best of luck in figuring out the problem. – Angela in Jacksonville, FL (note from Mama: before we all all go "duh," I just want to share that it can be easy to overlook the obvious, especially when we're frustrated!) Tuesday, July 12 More for Wanda whose bike was running fine but now shifting into gear isn't working: Wanda, I ride a 1994 Virago 535 and maybe this will help. I am not a mechanic so I may be wrong. You mentioned that you replaced the clutch switch and cable. So if this didn't help, I have another suggestion. There is another safety feature built into Viragos besides the side stand switch. I am not sure if the second cable on the clutch lever side is on all Viragos though. On some models there is a cable that's on the same side of your handlebars as your clutch cable that might be damaged. This cable will allow the Virago to be started if it is not in neutral. I found out that this cable was damaged on my Virago when I bought it used. This might be a problem if the cable is damaged. It could cause the bike not to run when the bike is shifted into first. It might be a cheaper fix to look into that cable before anything more major first. On my bike it was a pain because when I would stall the bike at a light or stop. I would have to put the bike back into neutral to start my Virago 535. I would have a look at that second cable on the clutch cable side and check it for any damage if you haven't already. I had to replace this other cable and the fastener was messed up on that cable. The owner before had wrecked the bike before I bought it. Now it will start just fine in first gear if I need it to. Here is a tech website you might be able to find some help from owners with your specific bike. It might be something else and they might be able to help you more than I can: http://viragotech.com/phpBB/portal.php Yamaha also has a parts catalog on the Yamaha website to look up exploded versions of the bike. It might help if your looking for a specific part to replace. You can find part numbers when you need to order something from a dealer or cross reference something by part number. The dealer should have this online catalog in the shop in your area. Just look for your bike by year and model on the drop down boxes. It will bring up exploded views of the bike. They also have a cross reference of Yamaha models made outside of the USA in the folders on the left hand side after you put in the info for your bike. Good luck Wanda and hope you will be enjoying your bike again. – Lisa Wells, a lady rider in California (note from Mama: thanks for sharing your thoughts on this!) Thursday, July 14 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Ken, Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
K., Oil is forced through the breather into the air filter for any number of reasons, but primarily because the crankcase venting is compromised. Some bikes, notably air head BMWs and some HDs, have a basic problem in either the engine design (BMW) or the breather system (EVO HDs). Without knowing what type of bike this is, I can suggest the following. 1.
The crankcase has been overfilled with oil (crankcase volume is reduced by
the extra oil, and the pressure is forcing the oil up into the breather
system.) Those are the big three. Here is my column in the April 2005 issue of Motorcycle Cruiser magazine called "blow-bye" . . . it discusses why oil ends up in the air filter. Regards, – Mark Monday, July 18 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Tom, Tuesday, July 19 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Andrew, Tuesday, July 19 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Jennifer, Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Bummed, Wednesday, July 20 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Jerry, It's easiest to trace this completely with a service manual, and since you had to go to the dealer to find the fuse box, it's time to get one! The wiring diagrams are really easy to follow if you keep your wits about you . . . just locate the schematic symbol of the fuse and then follow the lines to the items it protects. I'd start by looking for wires leading to the items that don't work when the fuse blows . . . a "just hanging on" wire, a melted wire portion that could be shorting to a metal ground frame part, and even corrosion where the light bulbs fit into the socket. Also, have you lately replaced a bulb or other electrical component? Keep it KISS and recheck the specs on the replacement item. If it's drawing more wattage, it could be overloading the circuit. If none of the simplest things seems to be the problem, then you might want to electrically disconnect the speedometer (make sure to tape the wire ends so they don't short somewhere, and see if the problem persists. If not, then your speedometer has crapped and this is probably something you'll just need to replace. Just as an added note, have you checked your battery connections lately? Check for tightness, corrosion, etc. – Mama Monday, July 25 For Bummed who washed her bike, leaving white spots on her black paint job: Tell "Bummed" to use Simple Green, diluted of course, to wash her bike. Spray it all over, hose it down, then dry it off. Works wonders and the engine dirt, etc. comes right off. Those little white speckles could be pollen . . . For waxing my husband swears by Mother's . . . and for everyday touchups I use DriWash. Have a great day! – Claire (note from Mama: thanks for sharing!) I use a car wash product to wash my Harley Ultra Classic. I read recently where you should not use a chamois. Perhaps that is a part of your problem. I usually dry mine with a diaper. I also use them to wax. Hope this helps. – Sandy (note from Mama: every observation helps us all think it out some more!) Dear
VTwin Mama, I have now got a '04 Suzuki 650 Savage which is light, powerful and easy to handle. It is back-firing a bit on deceleration. The dealer says the carburetor probably needs to be unsealed and adjusted, but the previous owner didn't experience this (Dealer said it could be different riding styles?). Could it also be a fouled spark-plug or can you think of anything else? Also, there is no trip odometer, do you know of any add-ons to track mileage between fill-ups? – Biker Chic Dear
Biker Chic, Backfire on deceleration usually indicates a "lean" condition between the ratio of gas and air mixing together (less gas, more air). So let's KISS! There could be a little bit of dirt or water in the carb float bowl, and additives are available to clear that up without yanking the carb apart. The carb cleaner in the gas may also take care of a small piece of icky somewhere in the fuel system (fuel filter, petcock filter, fuel line, etc.) that could be restricting the fuel flow. Also, double check where your exhaust pipes bolt in and make sure they are tight and the gasket is good (even a small air leak here can cause the problem). And yes, a fouled spark plug could be causing a weaker spark and so all the gas isn't burned at spark and makes it's way into the exhaust pipe where it explodes. Last, it may be that the carb pilot screw needs a 1/2 turn adjustment so the mix is richer. On some bikes, this adjustment is under a sealed cap. As always, I highly advise that every rider get the service manual for their specific year/make/model bike . . . lots of great info contained within and pictures! Check my Education Center page for Internet sites that offer them! – Mama Wednesday, July 27 For Biker Chic whose bike is back firing: First off, I want to congratulate you on passing the motorcycle safety course! There is nothing cooler than riding your own bike! My riding partner and I both owned '03 Suzuki Savages as our first bikes and what fun they were!!! I just wanted to let you know that the backfiring on deceleration on the Savage is pretty normal. We looked at all the same reasons for backfiring ie. plugs, carbs, etc. so... I took my bike into the dealer and made them call Suzuki. They told me that because it is such a large single cylinder engine, the force of the combustion through the exhaust causes the backfiring AND that this should ONLY happen on deceleration. We went with that answer and rode them into the sunset without any problems at all!! I don't have any answers on the trip odometer, the only thing I can think of is to use a GPS that has a mileage function and I think most of them do. You can pick one up for about $100 or less and the mount for the handlebars is about $14. That way you can know where you are going and how far you have gone. Good Luck and Ride Safe! – Lou (note from Mama: thanks for sharing first hand knowledge on backfiring for that specific model bike! Weird though. Gosh, I completely forgot to address the odometer issue, but I'm thinking the dealer would quickly know whether there is an alternative stock part with odometer incorporated or an aftermarket company that could be retrofitted. Again weird that that wouldn't have been built in right away!) Tuesday, August 2 More for Biker Chic whose bike is back firing: Backfiring is normal for a Savage when decelerating. Tell her to learn to love it! I did when I had mine. I also missed a trip meter on mine, and someone suggested using a grease pencil to write the starting miles on the face of the speedometer to remind you of the mileage. Hugs, – B. (note from Mama: okey, dokey!) Tuesday, August 2 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Connie, This is also a good time to repeat my basic message that every bike rider should get the service manual for their specific year/make/model bike. One good Internet source is Repair Manuals. A wealth of information awaits you! – Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
No Name, So, without the bike running, and the bike in first gear, does the bike roll forward like it was in neutral? That means in fact that your clutch is not engaging (you should not be able to roll the bike at all). Now you've got to look at the clutch cable and adjust it so that it engages. Or it's possible that the cable needs replacement if you're all the way to the end of the adjustment points (look at the top end and also follow the cable down to where it connects to the clutch cable linkage). You'll see another adjustment point there. Also, there could be a problem in what's called the clutch basket, where the clutch friction plates are actually housed. This is probably a wet clutch bike, and it may be gummed up and not allowing the friction plates to come together to transfer the power action. Or the plates or springs might be worn. Depends on the bike year and mileage, etc. So, now, if the bike won't roll forward in first gear, you've possibly lost something between the clutch basket to the trany input mainshaft or internally from the tranny to the output which is the driveshaft. To understand the sequence of events, here is a description from The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance by Mark Zimmerman: "Here's how they work together when the clutch is engaged: gears or a chain transfer engine power to the clutch basket. The basket transfers the power to the drive plates through the mating slots in the basket and tabs on the plates. The clutch springs and pressure plate clamp the drive plates to the driven plates, transferring engine power through them. Mating splines on the driven plates transfer that power to the clutch hub, and the hub transfers the power to the transmission." So, now it's much more complicated than can be handled by me! Review my first steps and narrow down the problem a bit. Then call the service department of your local dealer to talk it over the phone more. Be as specific as possible, but don't be surprised if they can't troubleshoot it over the phone. Still, it's worth the call. Good luck! – Mama Wednesday, August 3 For No Name whose driveshaft is spinning but the bike isn't going anywhere: You replied that the clutch was slipping?? The clutch couldn't possibly be slipping because the shaft is spinning! Forget the clutch, the clutch is fine. I'd say that the most likely cause of this problem is that one of the gears in the rear hub have stripped, or somehow have come loose. Take it to a dealer as I don't believe these things are user repairable. Good luck and keep up the great work Petra. – Smokey in Australia (note from Mama: thank goodness for readers with knowledge greater than mine! It sounds like this rider needs to get to a shop pronto.) Dear
VTwin Mama, To try and remedy the situation, I changed the oil at 2600 miles with Honda GN4 10w-40 and a Honda filter. Didn't change a thing. I now have 3300 miles on the bike, and the noise is the same as it has been since 2200 miles. By the way, the noise seems to be more pronounced once the bike is warm and has been ridden a while at freeway speeds. So next I took the thing to the local dealer. Two guys came out, listened to it rev up for 5 minutes, and said the bike is fine. I rode away a little peeved, as they wouldn't take it for a spin. Today, I was riding past the dealer I bought it from, so I decided to take it in there and see what they say. I had to beg the service manager to come out and look at it.... He revs the bike for about 30 seconds, shifts thru some gears and engages the clutch back and forth, then turns it off. He tells me it is likely just noise from the "clutch basket" wearing in, and that he wouldn't worry about it right now and it is basically normal. He then proceeds to tell me that it is normal for motorcycles to go thru a clutch every 10k-12k miles. My mechanic friend was with me when I took it in, and as soon as the mechanic left our presence, we both starting talking at once about how much of an idiot the guy must be. Now I don't know anything much about bikes, but I am pretty sure it is not normal to have to replace the clutch every 10k miles on a Harley, let alone a Honda!!! And the guy said he could hear the noise go away with the clutch disengaged... Well since you can hardly hear the rattle while just revving the engine (if at all really), how would he know? He said I would have to wait 2 weeks to get someone to ride the bike if I wanted... I said no and left. Now I don't know what I should do... This rattle is just annoying me. It doesn't sound super loud or like something is really super wrong... but I just want to know if it is normal wearing in or what have you. So I am hoping you might have ideas or suggestions here?? Also, I took the air filter cover off for the first time yesterday, and had to clean about 1 tablespoon of oil out of the filter area. I wasn't too surprised by that though, as several people here have mentioned on forums I watch that oil can get up the breather element in the air box (mostly at idle) and cause this. Just thought I should mention that in case it matters to this question. Any and all comments are welcomed and begged for here.... I am really getting annoyed by this noise! – Kyle Dear
Kyle, What I will note from reading your letter is that none of this started from the beginning, but rather, after you had put 2200 miles on the bike. Have you pulled your spark plugs and looked at the gap end? Some basic clues are as follows: If the gunk is black, wet and shinny, you've got an oil fouled plug that may be caused by worn rings and pistons, loose valves, a weak battery, faulty ignition wires, circuit breaker trouble, a weak coil or a cold plug. If the gunk is dry, fluffy or sooty black, that's gas fouling, a result of a too rich carburetor air-fuel mixture, a lot of engine idling or a cold plug. If the gunk is dry, glassy and brown, that's an overheated plug caused by too lean an air-fuel mixture, a hot running engine, valves not seating, improper ignition timing or too hot a plug. Also look at the center electrode under the L-shaped group electrode (gap end) . . . and note if there is wear indicated by a rounding (rather than crisp edges). At this point, you may just want to change out the plugs and see if it remedies the noise. While it may be far earlier than the recommended maintenance schedule would call for, different riding patterns (like lots of slower speed, in town rides) can wear a plug faster than "normal." In regard to the oil in the air box . . . it may simply be that you've overfilled the bike . . . adding a bit of extra oil will do this . . . so stick to the recommended oil fill level and make sure you're reading the oil fill window right Fie on the dealer's service manager for not taking your bike for a two minute spin. I'd continue hunting for a dealer or independent shop that will address your concerns seriously. No, clutches don't wear out as described to you, but the clutch cable does eventually get to the point where it no longer can be adjusted to keep the friction zone in place and has to be replaced. So readers, any thoughts on what Kyle's bike is doing?!?!?!? – Mama Tuesday, August 9 For Kyle who is noodling out a rattling noise on an Aero 750: I wonder if it is possible that something has just rattled loose and now vibrates annoyingly at certain RPMs? I mean, most of the problems I've had with my bike have simply been vibration related. All sorts of things (screws, nuts, etc) can simply loosen up as the bike runs down the road. Anyways, checking that each nut, bolt, and screw on the bike is still firmly fastened might be something simple to check first. In fact, this is a good idea for just about everyone. And if something is loose, well, Loc-Tite BLUE (or another similar "Threadlock" product) can be your new best friend. Considering how new the bike is, the problem really probably is something straightforward, and sometimes experienced riders and mechanics might not even notice something like a buzz from a loosened plastic bit or other part. – Marina (note from Mama: good point!) Dear
VTwin Mama, I decided to take the motorcycle safety class so I could at least have a clue of what this biker stuff was all about. Well, I LOVED it, so I bought a Sportster 800 the day I finished my class! Within two weeks, though, I knew I needed a bigger bike (I'm 5'9" and felt like I was perched on top of the Sportie), and a month ago I found my "true luv"---- a 2003, pearl white Fat Boy! What a difference! I'm not sure if it's the added weight or the fact that I'm sitting lower on the frame, but the ride feels much more stable. The only thing I'm a little iffy about are the solid wheels. Has anyone else experienced the wobblies in high wind or on the highways at higher speeds? I'm about to take my first big trip and I'm wondering about those wheels (hubby says they wouldn't be selling those wheels if they weren't safe . . . ). Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks again for creating such a wonderful, informative and supportive site!!! – Laurie, aka High Maintenance Dear
Laurie, Wednesday, August 24 For Laurie who is wondering about wheel wobble on her FatBoy: I just wanted to tell Laurie that I too have a Fatboy with solid wheels. One day, when I have the extra cash, I am going to change wheels. They are fine if the wind isn't blowing. But get out on the highway, with a strong breeze and you'll get pushed right across the road. I've been pushed across my lane twice and it is a terrifying experience. The first time was out in Flagstaff, Az. I could barely hold the bike on the road. We pulled into the Harley Dealer and this old guy says, "How do you like those solid wheels?" I say, "I don't like them at all." He says, "They're a death-trap. They ought to be outlawed." I live in south Florida and I wasn't used to the strong winds of Arizona. I'm more used to hurricane winds, lol. Anyway, I am very careful to check the weather channel for the wind speeds before I go out on the Interstate. And I agree with Amy about Boss Bags. My hubby has them on his bike and we love them. Good Luck with the book! – Karen (note from Mama: oh dear, those wheels don't sound good at all . . . thanks for sharing what you've learned. And thanks for the GL on the book . . I'm just tuning up the title and opening Introduction chapter . . . and have four readers, both riders and non-riders, who will soon be reviewing it to see if I'm on the right track! Talk about jitters!) |
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