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2005 (August 25 to . . . October 14) Thursday, August 25 For Laurie and Karen and FatBoy solid wheel wobble: I mentioned the solid wheel wobble to my husband. Being the machinist that he is, he suggested just drilling a hole pattern in the wheels instead of buying all new wheels. A good machinist could take care of this for you. Tricia (note from Mama: I'd double check with the dealer's service department on this, but it sounds like a solid idea!) I have heard the same thing regarding FatBoys, but I also have heard suggestions about taking her wheels off and have them machined out, to let the air flow thru the wheels. I love your site and all the helpful suggestions. Im 38 and have been riding for 2 ½ years now and am on my second bike. I first bought a 2003 Sportster Hugger (since Im only 53) and loved it. (A great first bike to make sure you love the whole bike life experience). Last October, my boyfriend and I bought matching 2005 Softtail Deluxes (his is black and mine is Lava Glow Red) weve tricked them out and made them very unique. For those looking for a bike low to the ground with a low center of gravity this is the bike for you!!! The Deluxe is the lowest bike Harley makes without any lowering kits. The bike seats at 24 from the ground. Ive only been riding since March of 2003 and it was the best decision of my life. After I made the decision to start this phase of my life, I took the class, barely passed, but did pass and practiced a lot. For everyone out there, just keep trying. Kelly (note from Mama: ok, sounds like others have done this to overcome the problem. Congrats on your own ride adventure and the new bike! I see that this bike is already listed in my Motorcycles for Short Riders list!) Thursday, August 25 Dear
VTwin Mama, Have I been doing it wrong all this time ? And if they fixed things how come its struggling to 40 ?!? If something was wrong before, I want it broke again. Thanks. Leo Dear
Leo, My first question is what went wrong with the right hand "snorkle." I presume the writer means the air inlet pipe, and how was it fixed, he may have cut off the intake air supply to the engine. Second, the first thing is to check the simple stuff, since it sounds like the bike is starved for air or fuel, or possibly both, he should check and replace as required the air filter, fuel filter and spark plugs. While he's at it he should check the exhaust output just to make certain the catalytic converter hasn't plugged up. Since I doubt he's got a vacuum gauge (or knows how to use one to test a converter) a quick and dirty test is to just hold a hand over the exhaust outlet and rev the engine, if it can't blow your hand off the pipe it may be plugged, this is a very subjective test so if he suspects a plugged converter he should contact a dealership, besides it should be under warranty (5/50 emissions I believe). By that same token he may have a plugged or broken O2 sensor. Once the simple stuff has been done, and assuming no solution has been found he needs to contact a reputable dealership, (not the one he's been using). The only real way to test these things is with a scan tool, (worth a couple of grand) without that and the knowledge to use it, there's no way of knowing if the EFI and ignition system are working properly. I hope this helps, take care, Mark So, there you have it dear reader . . . some things to check out and keep you moving forward on determining what's up! Mama Tuesday, August 30 Dear
VTwin Mama, Question on the starting conditions: All the electrical seems to work fine with one exception, when the start button is pressed the headlight goes out (I assume this is correct and is meant to divert power to the starter) however it does not turnover. Are there a few conditions that need to be met to have that start button work? e.g. - key on, parking brake on, foot break pressed etc. etc. Would anyone have an electronic version of the operators manual they could send me? Thanks in advance for your responses. Tim Dear
Tim, The Internet is notorious for not providing some basics about bikes, especially for very specific year/makes/models unless there is someone who loves a bike and has taken the time to chronicle it. I'd spend the $25 or so to get the aftermarket manual for your bike. It just really makes a difference to have the electrical schematics and as you need perform maintenance and more, it's helpful. You might try reaching Ian Hunter who runs the Hondamatic Owner's Association site: http://www.cvmg-gpr.ca/hondamatic/. Perhaps he can lend more insights. Mama Tuesday, August 30 More for Laurie and Karen and FatBoy solid wheel wobble: Hi, my husband let me ride his Fat Boy the other day. I fell in love with it. I read an article recently that stated "The bike also felt a little wobbly on the highway whenever there was a crosswind. I've heard this is due to the solid wheels." My husband said it took him some getting used to this feeling. Now he hardly notices unless an 18-wheeler passes him or unless it is unusually windy out. Laurie, you can always change out the wheels or have them customized by having a design cut out. Lonnie (note from Mama: I know that new rims are probably expensive and am hoping the cut out idea isn't quite as costly, but a solid idea!) Dear
VTwin Mama, Well then I decided to take the class and then decide after that . . . I passed it Friday!!! Never could get that box thing down, but really improved on my confidence!! I'm proud of myself because I was really nervous. I want to share with other nervous ladies to just go for it! Question . . . I felt really confident on the Rebel I used for the class, but I'm still afraid on the Alpha that I have. Should I just keep practicing with the Alpha or think about getting a Rebel? The Alpha just feels bigger, heavier and less nimble than the Rebel. I have an Alphasport GV 250 Classic (very pretty bike). Joy Dear
Tim, The Internet is notorious for not providing some basics about bikes, especially for very specific year/makes/models unless there is someone who loves a bike and has taken the time to chronicle it. I'd spend the $25 or so to get the aftermarket manual for your bike. It just really makes a difference to have the electrical schematics and as you need perform maintenance and more, it's helpful. You might try reaching Ian Hunter who runs the Hondamatic Owner's Association site: http://www.cvmg-gpr.ca/hondamatic/. Perhaps he can lend more insights. Mama Wednesday, August 31 To Tim who has the 1981 Hondamatic that won't turn over: I have a 1981 Hondamatic too. The headlight does briefly go off when you start it. My starter is touchy. I believe it is a loose wire. These bikes won't run if the kickstand is down. If you have any questions for me feel free to e-mail me at lcoler@hotmail.com Lcoler (note from Mama: boy do I stand corrected. Thanks for sharing and offering your direct support to Tim!) Monday, September 5 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Bluzjamer, Monday, September 5 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Karla, I will also note that I learned from VTM sister Phoenix, who is 4'10" tall, that she found that by having boots with bigger platform soles that not only allow her feet to reach the ground, but also so her legs can dig her feet into the ground for more traction, has really made a difference. Now she can push her HD Heritage Softail Classic around with greater ease. Just something to consider if your feet are just reaching the ground, but not allowing for more traction. On that note, you might also want to check into lowering the bike or getting alower profile seat to help. Mama Hello
VTwin Mama, Now that I have bought the bike I would like to do stuff to it so I need your assistance in the following matters: 1)I have done about 300Kms on the bike and would like to
add a hypercharger to it. Are the Kms done enough or should I wait to get
the first service done at the 1000Kms mark and then proceed. Any help will be much appreciated. Puneet Kukreja Dear
Puneet, Friday, September 9 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Keith, "You reap what you sow. This guy's bike is obviously running a little lean, but again we need to know a little more. When does the sneezing noise occur? If it happens when he's decelerating it's most likely too small a pilot jet, and the fact that he's 3.5 turns out on the screw would bear that out. If it happens when he accelerates the needle jet, the needle, the pilot jet or even the slide spring may be wrong. Also the shims are meant to go under the needle clip, not on top of the needle, placing them on the top of the needle won't do much good, (of course he might have them in the right place and is just doesn't know up from down.) The problem he's going to have (outside of believing all the dopey stuff he's reads in chat rooms), is that the modification he's performed may not respond to over the counter jet kits. As you surmise the kits, regardless of who makes them, are designed with a specific application in mind. For instance an aftermarket pipe, K&N air filter and modified are box. Not to many of the jetting guys I've run into formulate their kits with what essentially amounts to a broken pipe in mind. In this instance the guy is going to have to "suck it and see" as my friend Ade Crieghton, of the IOM likes to say (Isle of Man that is). He's just going to have to buy an assortment of pilot jets and try them out one at a time until he gets a result he can live with. BTW this is the way we used to do it in the dark days of yore. Of course back then you could only buy a Bates Megaphone or a Dunstall Power Pipe (designed by Gordon Blair at the University of Edinburgh) for a British or Jap bike and drag pipes for your HD. If you were bucks up though you could get something from MCM. Back then we used to call them Blooie pipes. Oh well, time marches on." So, I hope this helps Keith . . . Mama Tuesday, September 13 For Puneet who was looking at hypercharger kits for a VStar 1100: The Maxair Predator is the way to go . . . just my opinion. Karen (note from Mama: opinions are good to share! Here's Maxair's website . . . they are in Boulder, CO, but products are offered through a number of venues as well!) Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Trish, Monday, September 19 For Trish who is searching for a less wimpy sound for her 650 VStar: I also ride a 650 V-Star (Classic), and have done a Telmo Mod on mine to change the sound, but several of my friends who also ride a 650 V-Star went with the Vance and Hines pipes. They are really awesome sounding . . . and not overly loud. Hope the info helps, Hugs, B. (note from Mama: thanks for sharing!) This is a link to the 650 Custom, Classic & Dragstar site, a great site for 650 V Star riders. You can also go to the 650 forum where you can get a wealth of information about the bike. There are many modifications that can be made to this bike. There are two exhaust mods she can do to her stock exhaust for a more beefy sound. I just did the three hole mod myself, and it has improved the sound tremendously. V Stars are very quiet, maybe a little too quiet, I had a pedestrian (who was daydreaming and not looking where he was walking) almost walk right into me because he couldn't hear me. Oh yeah, the horn is wimpy too, but it got his attention. I think the horn modification will be the next one. Joanne in Calabash (note from Mama: thanks for sharing! this site as a good source of information!) Wednesday, September 21 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear Kathy, If that bike has landed on it's left side for any reason, you may also wish to recheck the shift lever to see if the shaft has bent slightly. That could account for an on/off problem with shifting. I'd also be looking at the free play of the clutch cable at the clutch lever and the engage/ disengage point of your clutch lever. Cables wear over time and do so gradually . . . you wouldn't necessarily notice until there is a problem. You'll find that even a small adjustment would make a difference. If you have the service manual, then read through the clutch cable/lever section and take a look. If not, it would be wise to get one now . . . many Internet sites offer them . . . some can be found on my Education Center page. Mama Thursday, September 29 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear Shane, If you decide to move forward with a home remedy, you may want to try drilling holes in the baffle first (less intrusive than removing the complete baffle) in a pattern, moving from smaller holes to bigger ones to get the sound you're looking for. For this you need an exploded view of the exhaust pipe, locating the baffle(s), how they are anchored, etc. . . . which you would find in a service manual. You could also consider a quick call to your local dealer's service and/or parts department for a quick chat. And yes, it's possible you'll need to re-jet the carb at that point if you notice carb or pipe farting or changes in pipe color. If you remove the baffle, ascertain if it can be reinstalled. If you cut off the end, be prepared for an irreversible mistake. That's a chance you take. Some people have advocated locating used pipes for the bike to practice on, but with a 2005 I'm doubting that will me an option. I could not find specific instructions for that bike on the Internet so you may want to hop onto a specific discussion forum for the bike to chat it up with owners that may have already made this modification. In this case, knowledge is less costly! The V-Twin Forum is very active and if you scroll down you'll find an Exhaust Discussions section. Mama Friday, October 14 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear Bob, |
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