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2006 (April through May) Monday, April 3 Dear VTwin Mama, Now that I've had two 750 ACEs I am wondering about a
couple of things. Both my bikes seems to have a wiggly gas tank, is
this common? Also did Honda quit making the ACE model after 2003?
I could not find any ACE models newer than 2003. Dear Kris, Yes, the ACE model was discontinued with the introduction of the Shadow 750 Aero model in 2004. – Mama Tuesday, April 4 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Brian, In doing a bit of research, I found this page on the JC Motors site, and although they don't have your bike engine listed, on that page you'll find the contact info. I'm thinking, given that they work a lot with Honda engines, they may have a source or be willing to search with their industry contacts for you, and it's clear that they do have solutions for the older bikes. You might also want to try the Old Bike Barn, which specializes in parts and pieces, including engines, for older metric bikes. Again, although they may not have the engine you seek, their connections may prove to be useful. You might also try going to this CBR Forum I found and post a message or this FireBlades forum for CBR 600 (all F models) or the CBRWorld.net forum. – Mama Tuesday, April 11 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Diane, Friday, April 14 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear JT, Yah, yah, I know, the bikes are finally broken in properly and blammo . . . the Capacitor Discharge Ignition box, i.e. the Black Box (basically, an ignition with no points) goes to heck. To quote Dan's Motorcycle Repair Web Page, "To top it off, most motorcycle CDIs are expensive to replace, and when they go out, the bikes are too old to justify the expense of replacement." But that's just Dan! So I headed to the Old Bike Barn, but it looks like they are only carrying Kawi and Yami CDIs, but hey, the number is toll-free, so you might want to call and see if they have a lead for you. Warning: I saw prices from $200 to $400 . . . omigosh! You could also try the Honda Rebel Online site, truly all things Rebel. Call the number at the bottom of the page and see what's up. There's nothing like a cycle/salvage guru to perk up the possibilities! – Mama Monday, April 17 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Mellissa, Service manuals come in two "flavors," the factory version (about $70) and the aftermarket version (about $20) which is usually published by Clymers or Haynes. You can find these manuals for sale online and I have several sources listed on my Education Center page. Not only do you get procedures (with pictures), but tool lists (yes, some U.S. bikes have metric sized parts on them!), maintenance schedules, troubleshooting guidelines, in-depth section views, and electrical system schematics. Truly the wisest investment you can make! You CAN SHOW THEM, but even experienced mechanics have a copy of these at hand! – Mama Tuesday, April 18 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear William, Start with the spark plugs and change them, and if you already did, recheck the gapping. Then move on to the air cleaner and check that it's . . . clean! Check the connection of the exhaust pipes . . . if they aren't tight, air could be introduced, also check the metal gasket at the connection point and change. Then go to a local auto store and get a carb cleaner additive (be sure to follow the gas to cleaner ratio). Run the bike and see if things clear up. If this doesn't do it, locate the carb drain plug at the bottom of the float bowl and drain and see if water and particles come out. Drain the tank completely . . . you may have water collected in the tank (from condensation as it sat). Then it's on to the fuel filters . . . at the gas petcock and inline . . . to see if they are clogged. Still not right? Then, because of the age of the bike, I'd check the condition of the spark plug wires (yes, they erode over time) and the bike timing (at this point you may wish to take it to a dealer or independent mechanic depending on the skill and tools you have). A service manual (rather than the owners manual) is useful, and for about $20 you should be able to get the aftermarket version. There's a link on this home page to the left or check my Education Center page for other online shops . . . or call the dealer to check for availability. Very handy thing to have! Good luck and hoping this response is the KISS of life! – Mama Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Larry, Thursday, April 20 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Mike, Thursday, April 20 Hey VTwin Mama, Dear Ray, I contacted my affiliate partner Repair Manual.com and Amy noted that the company has gotten queries on this, but so far, they haven't been able to find a service manual source. A lot of times they will carry the aftermarket manual, from say Clymers or Haynes, but on a bike that doesn't have as much exposure in this country, I doubt if the aftermarkets would consider this a high priority to create. Of course, the company also goes directly to the manufacturer source for manuals, but again, hard to find. So, I called a local dealer, who actually hasn't had any orders, but he pointed me to the American Lifan site! This is where all Lifan things begin in the U.S. (or least, that's my understanding). They are in Dallas and you'll find the contact info on the site. That's where I would go next! – Mama Friday, April 21 For Larry and Virago 250 riders seeking different exhaust pipes: First let me say that I check your site every day! Always find useful and supportive info! In fact I used some of the links to find the aftermarket exhaust for my 250. [yahoo!] I sent an e-mail to a company that I thought was in the Netherlands, well, make a long story short, the mail was responded to in a very prompt time and from New York! I am so thrilled with my new exhaust! It is the deep sound that I was looking for and I can even "rack off"! All this is so exciting for me since I get teased for riding the baby bike, but at 57 years of youth, 5'2", 98 lbs. I don't want to muscle a huge bike around since I have only been riding a few months! My exhaust is a Laser Exhaust made by JAMA and it really has a good sound! Robert at Foster RAD did not laugh at me when I told him what I wanted, he simply gave me the info and guided me to the pipe I needed! It even arrived sooner than I had expected! I cannot say enough good things about this experience, When Robert told me that my bike would look like a big bike because it would sound like one I got so excited, but I told myself not to get my hopes up, but he was right! I love the pipe! I feel like a big girl! – Dottie (note from Mama: thanks for sharing this!) Wednesday, April 26 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear New Shadow Rider, So, is anything else happening? For instance, does the bike "miss" when you give it some throttle, does it backfire during acceleration or deceleration, did you buy this bike recently and the previous owner hadn't ridden it for awhile, etc. These are additional clues that help pinpoint the problem. Bike beasties need their innards attended to now and again, and this means routine maintenance. I'd start my pulling the spark plugs and checking them and changing them if you're not sure. I'd check that the air filter is clean. You could add some carb cleaner to the gas tank (found at any auto parts store, be careful to read the ratio guidelines) to clean out this section a bit. Then check that the exhaust pipes are firmly bolted in (air introduced here causes all sorts of problems) . . . noting that old gaskets may need to be changed. Then I'd drain the float bowls (if the carb cleaner additive didn't do the trick) to get crud/water out, which is a main cause for the symptoms you described. As all of these steps are relatively simple and provides an excellent chance to learn if you've never wrenched before! Still, you'll need the service manual to find everything and proceed correctly, so hop onto my Education Center page for online sources if you don't have one! Absolutely, you could do all of this (or may have already done all of this!) and then you have to consider that a synch of carbs is warranted. This is usually best left to the pros, as it requires special tools, patience and experience. Yes, someone at home can do it, but even that way, it's important to have the service manual handy and even an added "how to" book like Mark Zimmerman's The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance, which offers the pro way to do the job, the layman's way, and the "by-guess-and-by-golly" method. Ok, off you go to work on the bike. All of the simple
steps will cost less than the charge for an hour on a professional couch
(and is far more entertaining)! –
Mama Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Heather Bear, Monday, May 1 For Heather Bear who changed pipes and now the bike isn't running the same: When I got my new bike ('05 883 Sporty) I had the pipes changed to Screamin Eagle II's. They did not rejet the carb (and were supposed to). When I took it back, they rejetted the carb and had all running smooth. A week later it would not start. Seems the short time I ran it before they re-jetted fouled the plugs. So, when you get the carb and pipes to match, go ahead an pull the plugs too. Clean them really well or replace them, or you may find yourself stranded and unable to start the bike. Luck, – jojo (note from Mama: thanks for the added note on spark plugs!) Thursday, May 4 Hey Petra, I just discovered "Sea Foam." Its the one thing that I know of that you can use for 4 strokes, 2 strokes, you can put it in your oil, put it in your gas tank, pour it down the carbs while the engine is running and pour it on your cereal. (Last use is not recommended.) Cleans the systems out and more. I'm sure you have heard of it, but after my bike started to run rough, a few minutes after that was in it, it made a noticeable difference. Before that though, I was getting pretty worried that something awful was about to happen and leave me stranded. But what I really am writing you about is your new page on motorcycle travel. I can't believe you don't have Going the Extra Mile, by Ron Ayres. Its from a Iron Butt Rally competitor, and while it is very centered on the IBR, there are lots of tips. Just know that the IBA or IBR is mentioned every few pages. I want to get Against the Wind by the same guy, but darn it, school is so busy right now! I have read Motorcycle Touring: Everything You Need to Know. Pretty good. Some fascinating tales that guy has had. Well, have fun. – Ben Dear Ben, Nope, I have not heard of Sea Foam and don't recall it being mentioned on my site, but given the approximately 8,000 posted letters, that doesn't mean squat! Readers, this product removes built-up carbon deposits and contaminants from the engine, fuel tank, throttle body, and other places where air and liquids flow through on a constant basis. Very useful, not only for older bikes that have sat for awhile, but any bike that's running! Hopefully that's yours! No mystery on the book listings . . . I began compiling
new additions to the lists on both my Education
Center page and Motorcycle
Travel Books page, but as I called up a relevant list by publication
date, only got through 2004 to current! So, I've added the books you've
mentioned . . . voila! . . . I'll keep building these resources! –
Mama Tuesday, May 9 Hi VTwin Mama, Dear M., Meanwhile, if you wish to proceed, I'm going to give you general guidelines. Please understand that I don't have an office full of service manuals for every bike out there! First, get a sense of what clutch cable free-play is (bike at room temp). Grab the clutch cable near the lever and pull it straight back with gentle force. You'll see that there is a distance between the metal sleeve on the cable and the lever housing. It's only about 1/8", but this is truly important as you'll see. Loosen the clutch cable locknut (it's right at the lever). Undo the bolt holding the clutch lever to the assembly so the lever and attached clutch cable are free from the bike. Then, flip the lever over to see the routing of the cable internal to the lever. Sometimes it's "right there," sometimes it's a bit hidden. Continue loosening the cable from the lever and looking at the routing in the lever (it's often easier to see once the tension is taken off). Look at your new lever and correlate the pathway so that it's burned in your brain. If needed, draw it out because you definitely don't want to get this wrong! The cable will have a ball at the end that fits in a slot in the lever. Back the cable out until the ball is clear to pull out and the cable pulls through it's slot into the lever. Thread the cable through the new lever, route it in, get the ball in its slot, turn the cable to begin taking up the main slack, and re-bolt the lever in place. Now it's time for the final free-play (slack) adjustment. Too much and the clutch will be difficult to disengage (i.e., the clutch is pulled in but the bike wants to creep forward anyway or you hear gear crunching noises). Too little and you'll set the bike up for premature clutch wear. This is because as the clutch and engine parts get warm, they expand, and if there is no free-play in the clutch cable, it can't take that into account. Call your local dealer's service department to get the exact free-play measurement (usually around 1/8") if you don't have the service manual. Now, aren't you glad you looked at the free-play of the original set-up? Tighten the locknut, check the free-play, adjust as needed. Then test the bike. Adjust as necessary. Not ready to do this? Call the dealer or an independent
shop and ask how much they will charge to change it for you! Ask to watch
the procedure so that you know for the future! –
Mama Hi Mama, Dear Anon, In your case, take a look at hypercharger kits, which
are also called big air kits. These are basically alternative air cleaners
that will boost the bike's power by allowing more air into the carb, which
then needs to be re-jetted so that the gas/air ratio is again balanced. –
Mama Wednesday, May 10 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Banzo, According to the troubleshooting section in Mark Zimmerman's The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance, if a shift fork was bent you would most likely have a bike that jumps out of gear or refuses to go into a particular gear, which you are not reporting. Mark encourages some basic steps before you run screaming into the night or to the nearest fix-it shop. Clean oil of the right viscosity and correct fill level is important. If the oil is old, too heavy/light, or over/under filled, you are not doing the bike any good and it could be also impacting shift ease. Your bike may also have a separate tranny oil section, so that should be checked and/or changed. It could also simply be your foot position relative to the shifter and even a switch in riding footwear can change things. So, how far down do you have to angle your foot to get the boot toe under the shift lever? To make shifting as effortless as possible and reduce the pressure on the overall system, check if you have a shift linkage adjustment or reposition the shift lever on the shaft so that your toe is right there, vs. having to deeply angle your foot to get your toes under the lever. That leaves the history of the bike . . . if it was
dropped on its left side, the shift shaft could be slightly bent, or if
the bike has been ridden hard (wheelies, holeshots, slamming riding), then
yes, you could have the beginning signs of internal tranny problems. –
Mama Thursday, May 11 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Shelly, You'll also like the Honda
Rebel Online site . . . although it's geared more toward the 250,
there is 450 info and a wonderful all things Rebel discussion forum. I'm
sorry, but without the manual, I cannot advise you on specific
maintenance. Maybe one of my readers with a Rebel will chime in! –
Mama Friday, May 12 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear K., Mama's Note: I sent this message to K. personally, but am posting now so we can learn from it. K's Note: The guy's at Chandler Custom are brothers and fixed my bike and did the new cables for the throttle for almost cost. Only it did turn out to be the electronic ignition module. The replaced it for just the cost of the part because she went down on the way home. It is rare these days to find a shop that will go to these lengths to help a fellow rider out. For anyone in the Phoenix/ Chandler area these guy's are the salt. Mama Again: excellent . . . thanks for sharing the
outcome of this challenge! –
Mama Monday, May 15 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Anon, A bike that vibrates so much to make it uncomfortable probably needs a tune-up. I ride this model and have no problems, so I'm thinking that a scheduled maintenance check is in your best interest. Yes, it's not cheap, but BMWs will last such a long time if they are cared for correctly. The vibration is coming from an imbalance in the systems and shakes it way up to the handlebars, so simply changing that out is not going to solve the problem. – Mama Thursday, May 18 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Doug, Friday, May 19 For Keri and Honda Rebel riders looking for a bit more "top end" speed: I also have a 2001 Honda Rebel CMX250cc. I was able to give it more top end by having a smaller sprocket installed on the back. It allows for 10 more mph at most. I first thought that I might lose something in the start off, but I am only 125lbs so it is not even noticeable. I am also looking to jet mine and also adding a K&N Filter will help. Remember Rubber Side Down! – Brian (note from Mama: excellent!) Saturday, May 20 About louder exhaust pipes for Virago 250s and 535s: My response message is intended to make readers aware that when I visited the Foster Rad website and their product and catalog list does NOT display anything for a Yamaha Virago. Matter of fact, the only products listed are for Aprilia, BMW, Cagiva, Daelim and Honda and products for these brands are minuscule (at best). As a side note, Jardine makes a nice rumbling exhaust system for Virago 250s and 535s. – Anonymous (note from Mama: oops, just checked that the link was "live" and am now guessing that Dottie called them to see if they could help. I hopped onto the Jardine site and found the 535 page but not 250 . . . still, I think if you like something, call and ask as it's usually toll-free!)Sunday, May 21 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear CC, Also, I have had numerous letters that the Honda Rebel Online site is one of the best "all things" Rebel . . . at the bottom of the home page you will find a phone number for Jack's Salvage . . . these people have noodled out older Rebel stuff . . . even parts that are no longer available. Again, toll free, and I think they will quickly have the answer for you. – Mama Note from CC: Thank you for
the information, it was very helpful. I ended up calling Jack's Salvage
and he gave me all the information I was looking for. He has put newer
tanks on older Rebels many times without a problem. While the Honda Part
numbers are different the tanks are still identical. Sunday, May 21 Dear VTwin Mama, I was able to bring the bike down a tad by moving the ring on the stock shocks to the last notch - then lowered the front two inches by bringing it down the forks. I still have plenty of clearance in the front and back of the bike. With a new seat and some hearty boots, it will fit just fine. However, I have not seen any forum that says you can lower a bike in the front this way. Is it safe? – Kim Britton Dear Kim, According to The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance (which, by the way, is an excellent resource for learning how bikes work!), you've actually altered the spring preload point by means of the available adjusters. Preload is the point where the spring begins to compress, and the adjustments are there for the express purpose of providing a comfortable ride for the rider's weight. The ancillary benefit is that it lowers the bike a tad as noted. As long as the change to the front forks doesn't result
in a suspension sag (compression) that bottoms out the forks when you hit
a bump, you're golden! Alternatively, if this is a problem, you can check
for shorter front fork springs. The only question then is the aspect ratio
from back to front. If the bike handles well with the changes, fine,
otherwise look into a shorter shock for the back end. –
Mama Tuesday, May 23 Dear VTwin Mama, While riding home late night, cruising at 45 mph, it died on me. Plenty gas, electric fine. Took about 10 - 12 minutes to start it. No evidence of black / white smoke off the exhaust. Rode 4 miles, and the same thing happened. Again, got it to started after 10 minutes of cranking, choke and ignition. This past weekend, I let it run idle on my driveway for a while. Observed there is a skipping every 10 minutes or so. Any suggestions? Could it be the fuel pump? Thanks, – Joe K. Dear Joe, If not, my next thought is that an electrical component is failing once it gets nice and warmed up (the idle skip may be a partial indication of this). When the bike died on the road, it started cooling off as you attempted to restart it. My first thought is the voltage regulator/rectifier, and you can call your local dealer to see if they can test this for you if you take it off the bike. But it could be a relay or "black box" module and you would need the electrical schematic to see what exact components are in your system. That's where a full service manual comes in handy, and
if you don't have one, check my Education
Center page for online sources. –
Mama Tuesday, May 23 Dear VTwin Mama, Rather than have them fix it, without me seeing what they were talking about - and after a little on-line research, I decided just to bring it on home and have "my man" (who is hesitant of me riding and a biker/mechanic of 48 years) to help me learn how to do it myself as the fixes were going to be cost prohibitive. I just returned from outside, and now it IS pouring gas from the carb, but lying just within reach is a line that wasn't attached - one that needed to be replaced, as it was a bit worn, but still - it wasn't attached!!! I'm not sure if it wiggled its way off on the hour haul home - and I'm going to give them the benefit of the doubt - though I doubt I'll take my bike back to them. I'm no mechanic - and I didn't foresee myself becoming a serious one - but how do I KNOW that I'm not being ripped off. What do I ask before I go? The place was recommended by several of my "guy" friend buddies - but was this a case of "Oh, she doesn't know anything - let's stick it to her?" My money and time are limited - I don't need this kinda mess! Any suggestions? – Jana Dear Jana, If the valve does not seal off the opening for any reason, gas will continue to pour into the chamber and that's when it overflows, and pours out of the overflow tube. This could be because the valve has somehow separated, the spring assist for closing is not functioning or dirt or particles have entered the system and are causing mayhem. I suppose with the KISS principle, it's also possible that the carb's air vent passage is clogged (this is what keeps the float chamber at atmospheric pressure) and if clogged, could be forcing the gas to exit via the overflow tube in an effort to keep the float chamber balanced. According to this page on Dan's M/C site, there is a float setting (maybe) that could be out of whack and is a crucial setting. I have no idea about the now unattached line . . . that sounds like the feed line from the tank to the carb, but you note it's pouring from the carb, not before the carb, so that can't be it. If the bike has a gas petcock, then shutting it off would quickly tell you if that's the gas tank feed. And the overflow isn't connected anywhere, it's meant to just dump. When the shop noted the "serious gas overflow" problem, the first question would be, how did they know this if it wasn't specifically part of the service they were contracted for. Something must have caught their eye. It may not have readily apparent to you, but something in how the bike ran might have clued them to an impending problem. Did they try any "outside" the carb checks to see if they could resolve it? Although I'm not defending shops, it can be frustrating trying to explain technical details to someone who doesn't have enough knowledge to follow the conversation. That's when I insist that they open up a service manual, point to a picture, and explain the possibilities as they point out the system components. Or I bring in my own shop manual and trace the conversation. In my experience, shops rarely do any freebie work if they note a problem, otherwise every bike they ever get would be there for a much longer time and of course time is money and they don't do work unless being paid for it. Although it's possible this shop was taking advantage of you, if they are a busy shop it makes no sense that would make extra work for themselves, and given the bike's age, may have in fact identified a problem coming up. Yes, they could be unscrupulous, but unless you are willing to delve into the technical details yourself, it's next to impossible to know whether they are pulling the wool over your eyes. So, as it appears you are interested in learning about your bike, I would get a good "how a bike works" book and the specific service manual for your bike. Between the two you will be able to noodle out tons. Sources for these can be found on my Education Center page. I used The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance to put together my Carb 101 thoughts and noodle out what might be happening. Again, given the age of the bike, it might be time for a
carb removal and internal inspection and rebuild. There are kits for this,
and as you noted, basics about doing this can be found online. I still
advocate having the service manual for your exact year/make/model bike.
About $25 for an aftermarket version. –
Mama Dear VTwin Mama, However, would love some input on how to convert to a 1200 . . . everything I have is stock so will be starting fresh. Just want to have the power but not a new bike. Any suggestions? Thanks all, – Karren Dear Karren, An alternative, if you don't want to spend this level of money, is to consider getting a hypercharger kit. It won't boost the power to a 1200 level, but it will give you more power. It's also called a big air kit, and what you're doing is changing out the air filter section to the carb. More air delivered to the carb then means that you rejet the carb to deliver more gas (to maintain mix ratio) and voila! more oomph! Prices vary, but one source to start looking at is Kuryakyn. Happy power! –
Mama Sunday, May 28 To Karren who is considering converting her Sporty 883 to a 1200: You might want to also mention that these types of modifications will void her warranty. Since it is an '06 I'm assuming she at least has the basic warranty. Even changing the pipes will void the warranty these days. Just thought I would mention it. Some people don't care. My hubby has already switched his pipes and plans to convert his '05 up to a 1200. Love reading your site. Thanks, – Tricia, 2005 HD 883L (note from Mama: thanks for sharing this important note about motorcycle modifications, big and small!) Dear VTwin Mama, Dear T., In general, you need to identify if the adjustment is
made at the top or bottom. Take a look at the top and see if you have a
lock nut and adjuster nut right below it. Then loosen the lock nut, make
the adjustment, and retighten the lock nut. Otherwise, shocks with a
bottom adjuster need a special tool that may have been included in your
tool kit. –
Mama Sunday, May 28 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear Socks, Dear VTwin Mama, Dear mlmjam, Maybe the front fork preload can be adjusted or a
different spring be inserted? Trike riders with knowledge, please chime
in! –
Mama Tuesday, May 30 For mlmjam whose Gold Wing trike is shimming on the front end: I also own a Goldwing trike. Goldwings are notorious for "headshake" issues whether triked or a two wheeler. How long have you had your front tire? It may be cupped. Try mounting a rear motorcycle tire on the front end. Have your mechanic tighten your head bearings. If this does not help, replace your head bearings with tapered bearings by All Balls Bearings. (I'm not making this up) Do not waste your money on a Super Brace. Do fellow riders intimate your trike is not a "real motorcycle" and then sheepishly ask you to carry their stuff? Hope this helps. – Lyn (note from Mama: I was keeping my fingers crossed that a knowledgeable person would write in, and here you are! Thanks!) Wednesday, May 31 For T. who was looking into adjusting the shock on a 2004 VLX:
I thought it would be like my 2001, so I did some checking.
The rear shock is basically a single shock with seven settings
(Suspension---Rear Suspension Spring Pre-load in the Owners Manual). The
higher the number, the harder the ride. I have to guess on the location:
mine is under the seat. Remove the left side panel and there it is. The
damper unit is buried, so you would need a service manual for that, IF you
can even change it. |
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