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2007 (January through March) Tuesday, January 9 Dear
VTwin Mama, You have to insert the key into the helmet lock, turn clockwise, and when it opens, push down on a latch that is right under the key. Then you SLIDE the seat back, and there you will find . . . the owners manual.!! We had to buy the owners manual to find this out. Now we have TWO manuals. If anyone needs one, they can get in touch with me via e-mail. I hope you will share this information on your site to let others know about this answer to the problem. Thank you, – Tricia in Wickenburg, AZ Dear
Tricia, Thanks for sharing the combination of steps needed to remove this bike's seat . . . I seem to recall that a friend's '86 BMW had the same two-step process . . . which then revealed the manual and the tool kit! – Mama Wednesday, January 10 Dear
VTwin Mama, I'm beginning to ride more and learn how to wrench my bike from a friend. He has written some how-to's which some readers may like: We Ride On Sundays. It is kind of DIY auto and bike repairs without a big budget or tools. Here's how I found out about the VTwin Mama site: the all-seeing Google! – Leon S. Dear
Leon, Monday, January 15 Dear
VTwin Mama, Thank you for your time. – Mikey Dear
Mickey, I'm betting if you went to the local dealer of the bike you wish to modify, they would be able to scare up a modification kit, whether it's from the mfg. or an aftermarket company. For instance, I found several products on the Badlands Motorcycle Products site, so I'm guessing there are more around! – Mama Monday, January 22 Hi Mama, Dear
Me Help, Then, always remove the negative lead first, then the positive lead (and the opposite when reinstalling). Standard lead/acid batteries have windows to each of the six cells so that you can see if the fluid level in each cell is ok (minimum and maximum). Sometimes you need to shine a flashlight at the battery to see the fluid. Only used distilled water to refill a cell to the correct level. If a cell is completely empty, you can fill it and try a recharge, but you may not be able to save this battery. Some motorcycles have gel batteries . . . they are sealed and all you can do is try a recharge. Be aware that a car charger is not a great idea, and battery chargers for bikes are available for both standard and gel batteries. I got mine at Wal-Mart. In the future, if your motorcycle is going to sit for months at a time, you've got two options: 1) fire the bike and let it run at least once a week or 2) get a self-charger that keeps the battery up-to-charge (like a Battery Tender). This saves costly battery replacement. I'll add that motorcycles with those lovely built-in clocks and such are always using a bit of battery power . . . so it's especially important to keep an eye on things. – Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Silversurfer, I would start by talking with your dealer's service department. They should be able to tell you what the factory did and then what they did getting your bike ready for you. Then talk to them about your initial miles and how you rode the bike to see what they have to say. Again, I would be surprised if you did anything wrong. To me, it's super important that you keep your eye on fluid levels as the parts begin wear-in. That means checking after each ride . . . main oil level, tranny oil level (if separate), and brake fluids. If your bike is water-cooled, then a check there is also necessary. I'd also be re-reading your limited one-year warranty policy. In some cases, for the warranty to "hold," you must be able to demonstrate that basic maintenance checks at recommended mileages are followed. For most, that first check-up is at around 600 miles. A service manual specific to your year/make/model will detail what needs to be done or you can simply estimate about when you'll hit that first service mark and get an appointment with the dealer lined-up (this time of year, they may not be as busy, but you never know what the lead-time for an appointment is). Typically that first service is about a complete oil and filter change and checking that everything is tightened up. Talk it out and then you'll be informed! I'm wishing you many happy miles on that beautiful bike! – Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, So, my bike will sit for days with the fuel valve open, as well as for smaller stop like shopping or filling up the tank. Is any of this bad? – Skippii Dear
Skippii, There are two types of petcocks: one that feeds the main from a tube in the tank and the reserve from the bottom of the tank (on, off, res) and one that has a a hose going from the petcock to a fitting on the intake manifold where there is a diaphragm that automatically shuts off the gas when the engine stops (usually noted by on/main, res, pri). I have never heard that there are any safety issues leaving the petcock on when the bike is sitting, but I do know moving it now and again is good and I do know that understanding the location of fuel filters (in the lines and petcock itself or inline fuel filter) is important. Readers, any other thoughts? – Mama Tuesday, February 6 For Skippii who wondered about always turning the gas petcock to the off position: I understand there are insurance issues as well if you are storing or parking your motorcycle in a garage while leaving the petcock in the open position. If a fire breaks out and the insurance company discovers the petcock lever in the open or ON position . . . eek!! You might be liable for cause or contributing to the fire as the gas line was left open - more so than if the valve was shut off at the source. Don't know if this helps much as to why it needs to be left open or closed (evaporation???) but if it comes to gaining a bigger insurance settlement, let's just get used to taking the millisecond and turn it off!! But remember you did this the next morning when you try to start your bike, which fails . . . again and again and again . . . until you remember you just started a new thing with this stupid petcock thing!!! : ) I was there! – scotka (note from Mama: I hadn't considered insurance issues . . . thanks for pointing out the possibilities! Now down memory lane . . . my first bike, relatively new rider . . . on base in Norfolk, VA . . . took off and the bike started dying along the main road leading off base . . . lots of cars going by while I walked around my bike trying to figure out what happened . . . petcock turned off . . . egg on face!) Thursday, February 8 New Bolt-On DVDs from Fix My Hog, Inc. Fix My Hog, the company that shows you in videos how to take care of Harley motorcycles (Softail, Sportster, Touring), has announced that its Bolt-On DVD will be released on February 28th! $49.95 for either the Softail/Dyna edition or Touring edition . . . want to know more . . . click below to see a breakdown of what the DVDs contain and excellent video clips that explain what's up! – Mama
Tuesday, February 13 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Larry, The exact point is of great interest to designers. "The vertical projection of the center of mass onto the ground (i.e. the point at which a vertical line drawn through the center of mass hits the ground) solely determines the static weight distribution between front and rear wheels of the bike." I'm not sure if a dealer's service department would be able to answer the question, but it might be worth a try. It's not noted in basic specifications and I've never seen it called out in a full factory service manual. – Mama Tuesday, February 13 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Susan, "Sounds like either she didn't get the tabs on the cable lined up with the drive or the cable broke. I've never had the speedo cable off one of those, but it's probably easiest to disconnect it at both ends and then turn one end of the cable while watching the other. If only one end spins, replace the cable. Of course you can always pull the inner cable out to if it's intact as well. When she replaces the cable, install the drive end (rear wheel) first making sure the cable spade slips into the drive tab. Next install the speedo end, if it doesn't slip in rotate the rear wheel slightly until the cable aligns with the receptacle in the speedometer head. If she forced the cable into the drive there's a chance she damaged the drive but I doubt it. There is also a very good possibility that when the speedometer cable came loose, the inner cable fell out. That'll be pretty obvious when she takes it back apart. The fluid may be a little rear end grease that dribbled out past the speedo drive when the cable fell off or even some speedo cable lubricant that weeped out OR even some normal seepage that she never noticed before, hard to say, but it's probably nothing serious. Her owners manual should detail the rear end oil level checking procedure, and tell her what to use, although I'd guess it's 80-90 EP gear lube and it probably gets filled to the lowest thread of the filler plug neck. Take care, – Mark Monday, February 26 Hi
VTM, Dear
Squeeter1, The best aftermarket exhaust pipes for a motorcycle are the ones that are designed specifically for a year/make/model. They should come with a carb rejet kit as the exhaust dynamics will change the gas/air mix flow to the carb. So that is something to consider when buying new pipes. Screamin Eagle of course is the direct Harley-Davidson accessories product line. DG/Hard Khrome is an aftermarket company out of Anaheim, CA. There are a number of other aftermarket companies, such as Cobra and Vance & Hines, just to name two others. As long as the company is credible and the pipes are made for your bike, you should be able to proceed with choosing a look and price range that meets your needs. Make sure you look for that rejet kit and full installation instructions to see what's what. I have seen some sites that offer sound clips on various exhaust pipes . . . but it gets tricky on how loud your new pipes really will be. Simple rule . . . if there are no baffles and they are straight shot pipes you can be pretty sure they are going to roar! Removable baffles let you work with a lesser roar and take them out if you want more! Since Sportys have been around for awhile (!), you might want to visit your local dealer to get an idea of what the most often chosen upgrade product is put on Sportys. I'm guessing they'll have an opinion! – Mama Wednesday, March 7 Dear
VTwin Mama, I bought a book on the bike and studied it and then looked into pulling the carbs to clean them. NOT!!! So I thought if the gas set at the float level and caused it to do this then I will disconnect the fuel line going to the T split at the carbs (note I said to the carbs not anywhere before). I then opened the drains on the bowls of each carb to let out all gas and closed them back. Then at the disconnect point of the T going to the carbs I filled them back up with carb cleaner and let it sit overnight (careful carb cleaner will eat paint). The next day I found something to allow draining of the carbs to drain anywhere but on the bike and looked at the drainage for anything other than clear transparency. I refilled it again with carb cleaner and hooked the fuel lines back up and started it letting the cleaner run through the carbs. End result was problem cured. I just got through making my own sync tool and will soon sync the carbs. – Mark Dear
Mark, Thursday, March 15 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Anon, Friday, March 16 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Dani, Monday, March 26 Dear
VTwin Mama, But after riding a while (around 40 miles) my bike experienced lost of power when I rode on the highway @ 55-60 mph. I had to pull aside then I continued the riding after it got stable. After a while (5-8 miles) it happened again but at lower speed (below 40 miles). Do you know if anyone has experienced something like this? If so, how did they fix the problem? Does it has to do with re-jetting or adjusting the carburetors? I will appreciate sharing any experience or information. – Jorge Aponte from the sunny isle of Puerto Rico Dear
Jorge, Well, there is no way to plug any of the holes again. The most common way to correct what you are describing is to re-jet the carbs. What I've read is that in the modification you did, you have changed the back pressure in the pipes. This tends to make the bike run lean (not enough gas). So you need a bigger jet. A hypercharger kit has to do with the more air and the addition of it usually means you need to rejet the carbs to get more gas to maintain the correct gas/air mix. So at this juncture, I would not change that as it will only introduce more air and another variable. I would make sure the carbs are cleaned, then rejet. Jets are available in varying sizes and it may take a try of several to find the right one. Start by understanding the size jet you have now, etc. – Mama Wednesday, March 28 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
G., Making sure that the proper air/gas mix is delivered to the carb is highly important, otherwise you force the bike to run too lean (not enough gas) and this will impact performance and can hurt the engine over time. Too rich and gas is not burned correctly as it powers the pistons and as it is expelled through the exhaust pipes. This doesn't do the bike any good as well. What you can expect in terms of performance is the feeling of more riding ease in the top gear at high speeds. While there is a lot of chatter on the Internet that it really doesn't boost horsepower or do that much, I personally know someone with this model who does feel she is getting more out of the bike now. But if you are expecting a 650 with hypercharger to be as powerful as say an 1100cc, then think again. So, the value in installing one is if you absolutely love this bike and are just looking for a bit more oomph at high speeds. Otherwise, save your money and get a bigger cc engine motorcycle. – Mama Hi
VTM, Could just be the battery/charging, cct is suspect and battery just recovers with short rest - not checked yet. Still worried about possible overheating though -- crankcase too hot to touch comfortably. – (.)cdrmn Dear
(.)cdrmn, Still, here's a question. When the bike won't start again . . . do you have lights and horn available? Is it full strength or weak or non-existent? According to Mark Zimmerman's The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance, you can put a voltmeter across the battery terminals and then rev up the bike to a given rpm (as shown in a shop manual) and that will correspond to the voltage you should see (i.e. something like 14.5 volts at 3,000 rpm). This tells you all is well at the battery and charging system, but in your case, you may wish to keep running that bike till it's good and warm and continue the testing. The symptom you describe just KISSes me as the regulator/rectifier going south soon (been there before!). Then I would turn my attention to the spark plugs and plug wires . . . could a wire be breaking down when it heats up? It's possible. Otherwise, you're looking at the other things in the circuitry, including the igniter unit, the starter relay, or the starter itself. If you go to this page on BikeBandit, you'll see the OEM parts diagrams I am using to take a closer look. As to an overheating bike . . . the biggest clue here is that the oil fills should never exceed the maximum . . . otherwise you are forcing the compartments to circulate too much liquid, causing it to run hotter and create a drag, as well as reducing the engine's "breathing" space . . . yes, it needs it, otherwise it will try to force oil out through the air filter and onwards. Double check what you've got going on there. I'm hoping I've opened up a few more things to take a look at . . . good luck on getting your Yami on the road with confidence! – Mama |
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