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2007 (April through May) Monday, April 2 For (.)cdrmn whose Virago 535 is exhibiting problems when its warmed up: Yamaha's Virago has had these types of problems since the early 1980s. My '82 750 and a friend's '89/90 500? have/had the same problems. His were never fixed after numerous trips to the Yamaha dealership. I still have my Virago, it is just temperamental, will start and run great for several weeks/months then all of a sudden it has problems. After sitting for a while it will run fine again! Several mechanics have gone over looking for and checking problems, none found. If cdrmn can find a mechanic that is familiar with these older Virago's that is her/his best possibility of finding problems and correcting. – Anon (note from Mama: thanks for the heads up . . . there are several Virago-specific help sites that may clarify things for this reader.) Monday, April 2 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Ria, In doing some research, I found that Haynes (a big aftermarket repair manual company) puts out a service manual for the Yamaha 650 and 1100 VStar and Dragstar. This book will contain every thing you are most likely looking for. One source, that does ship overseas (from the U.S.) is RepairManual.com. Just choose your mfg., year, and model (it will say VStar, but the Dragstar is an XVS1100). Often times you'll also find that discussion boards for VStar 1100 owners also include Dragstar chatter . . . so you may want to do a search . . . I see that the Delphi Forums area has just such a site. I mention this as I'm not sure exactly how much specs and info you need to get your motorcycle running. – Mama Friday, April 6 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Bert, I myself head to the local auto parts store and look for the right viscosity (like 20W-50) and the appropriate certifications (like API, etc.) that match the callout in my service manual. If you want to really immerse yourself in "oil wisdom," here is an "all things oil" article that I think you'll enjoy reading . . . it talks about oil in general, then more specifics, and it also contains a good section on the synthetics. – Mama Monday, April 16 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Bill, Tuesday, April 17 Dear
VTwin Mama, Now that it's Spring, I took the bike out and I'm still having problems with the bike. To get it to ride properly, I would have to leave the choke half out. So, I called the dealer, who had mentioned that the ethanol in gas is corroding the needles in the jets (a fix was to completely replace the carbs with stainless steel ones). Yamaha confirmed this issue as well, citing it as a relatively new issue. I was just wondering if you have heard anything like this? It seems to me that this is a pretty big issue! – Justin Dear
Justin, Most motorcycle carbs are made of aluminum and it's true that if you don't run a bike for awhile, all sorts of things can happen. For future reference, should you decide not to change to a stainless steel carb, gas left sitting will start to exhibit problems. Stored for long periods, gasoline can become contaminated by rust particles, dirt or water, or become "gummy" or "varnished." It basically starts to become turpentine, which will gum up things fairly quickly, especially small orifices like carb jets. The quick fix, if you ever need to leave the bike sitting for awhile, is to either drain the gas or add a gas stabilizer to the tank and run it a few minutes to get the mixture circulated through the carbs and its jets. The second is preferable as a tank left empty can collect condensation, which can start an interior rusting process. Better to fill the tank, add the stabilizer, run it a bit and shut it down. At this juncture you should drain your tank, drain the carbs by removing the float bowl drain plug at the bottom, then refill and add a carb cleaner in the correct proportion. This can be found at any auto parts shop. If it still isn't clearing up, then new jets may be needed. I have no idea why Yamaha is calling this a relatively new issue . . . motorcycle riders have been dealing with this for a very long time! – Mama Wednesday, April 18 For (.)cdrmn whose Virago 535 is exhibiting problems when its warmed up: I once owned a Virago and had the same problems and after taking it back to the shop many times they decided to inform me it was a manufacturing fault in the gear box. Needless to say I threw the bike back and got my money back so if you bought it from a dealer then take it back to them. – Anon (note from Mama: I will simply add that it can be useful to understand your state's Lemon Law before purchasing anything from a dealer. One site that links to these is Lemon Law America.) Friday, April 20 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Nick, No matter where you purchased the kit, I'd call the local dealer's parts department, tell them the part number (49053-96) and double-check the fit to the 883R (and note any other changes to the bike in that area). If they feel there shouldn't be a problem, I'd call the service department, schedule a stop-in time and have them take a look. – Mama Monday, April 23 Even more for (.)cdrmn whose Virago 535 is exhibiting problems when its warmed up: I had an ’84 Virago 750 for years and I never had any real problems. It ran fine for me, although it does take a bit of TLC to keep it sweet. I found that the electrical contacts throughout can give problems, in particular the Kill Switch. It would corrode and give intermittent running problems. In the end I just junked it. I put one contact on top of the other and solved that. Another time it would start misfiring particularly under load. I traced that to a poor contact on the ignition circuit in one of the connector blocks in the headlamp. When a certain vibration set in the electrical circuit was broken, hence misfire. Slow down and change the vibration rate and it worked again. I cleaned it up, made sure it is making good contact and hey presto no problems. Various mechanics said it was the CD unit, the coil and what have. They know nothing. I became quite adept at checking the wiring out and cleaning up the contacts on the ignition circuit. Check out the electrics on the ignition circuits, just clean up all the contacts, even if they look good, and make sure there is no resistance i.e. they are making a good contact, include the HT leads as well. – Ex XV750 Owner (note from Mama: how wonderful of you to point out what you found to overcome poor running problems!) Monday, April 23 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Anon, First, I can see that the reason the handlebar is so far back (towards the rider) is the mounting. It almost looks like a rather exaggerated pullback riser, but it's hard to say whether this is a piece that can be removed so that the handlebar can be secured at a lower and more forward position. If you're not mechanically inclined, I'd ride over to the local dealer and ask for the parts/service department to noodle out any change that could be incorporated. Even a shorter rise up with no pullback would give your arms more room. This motorcycle already has forward controls, but it's possible that a relocation kit could extended those foot controls further out. Again, it would take a knowledgeable parts person to ascertain the possibilities. Sometimes, a part for a similar model can be used, so even though this is a '90 EN500, it's possible something for the 750 models would work. The other solution is to add an engine guard, which is also called a highway or crash bar. If one can be added to the motorcycle, then you could also check into one with integrated highway pegs on the outside or add those individually. This would give your legs another riding position but extended out. If you find that the local dealer isn't able to assist you, as some aren't prepared to noodle out things for bikes that old, you may wish to search for a specific discussion forum for you motorcycle or try something like calling Old Bike Barn. They specialize in metric bikes from 1970 through the 90s and have a toll free number. You may find their knowledge of older bikes of great use to you. – Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Brad, In looking at Travis Brown's AMSOIL site (he is a dealer), I scrolled to the bottom and found the FAQ section. There is was noted that for vehicles with higher mileage, if would be "advisable to to use AMSOIL Engine Flush first. This will ensure that the engine is clean and free of any accumulated contaminants which might have an effect on the service life of AMSOIL Motor Oils. In all cases, it is good judgment to install a new AMSOIL Absolute Efficiency Oil Filter (EaO) every time you change oil." Contact Travis if you want to noodle this changeover some more! – Mama Tuesday, April 24 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Anon, Otherwise, if this started right when you got the bike, then re-jetting is a possibility. If possible, call the previous owner and asked if they rejetted with the pipe change. Most new pipes come with the proper re-jetting kit, but if you can't talk to the previous owner, you would have to pull the carbs to check the jet size and see if this is what Vance & Hines would have suggested for the change. – Mama Wednesday, April 25 For Brad who is thinking of changing to synthetic oil: I took my Honda Shadow to the Honda dealer and requested my regular oil be replaced with synthetic oil. The service manager told me that Hondas cannot run all synthetic oil because it burns out the clutch. It's great for the engine but does major damage to the clutch system because of the oil/friction issue (needs oil to work correctly). Honda recommends a blend of synthetic and regular oil if one wishes to run synthetic. I was given a couple of true examples in that one guy put in all synthetic oil and it caused $1500 worth of damage. With that being said, I would advise anyone to check with the dealer first to see if running synthetic oil causes any type of problem – Donna, Shadow Runner (note from Mama: it's quick enough to place a call to the dealer's service department . . . thanks for the suggestion!) I have changed the oil in many Hondas, Yamahas, Suzukis and Harleys with more miles than that and haven't had any problems. You should, if anything, see the shifting in your bike be smoother. Don't forget that by using synthetic oil you get start up protection, storage protection, along with extended drain interval. Thanks, – Travis (note from Mama: many sites are noting that clutch slippage is just a myth.) Thursday, May 3 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
H2OmAn, Thursday, May 3 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
squ, Otherwise, I'd be looking at a clutch drag scenario. First, double check your clutch lever adjustment. Cables stretch over time and go slightly out of adjustment and this is a simply enough check at the lever . . . you want about 1/8" freeplay (the amount you can pull in the clutch lever before you feel the "force" of the pull). Too much slack and you're not pulling the clutch plates apart correctly, thus causing a drag or groan. If you've run out of adjustment at the lever, look down the clutch lever cable and you should find another adjuster. Otherwise, you'll need to open up the clutch basket cover and adjust there. Since I don't know exactly how old your bike is (but I believe the VTX1300 was introduced in 2003), it's less probable, but possible, that you've got some clutch plate issues. Old oil, to little oil, oil that has created a sticky residue on plates, clutch plates that are not tensioned evenly with the clutch plate springs, worn plates. Here you will most likely need the service manual for you year/make/model. Online sources for manuals are listed on my Education Center page. – Mama Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Jimbo, Monday, May 7 For Jimbo whose speedometer tanked: Try checking the cable from the speedometer to the front tire. I had the same problem and it was because the cable was rubbing on the wheel and over time it developed an open in the cable. Hope this helps. – John (note from Mama: sometimes we don't realize a cable has come loose, shifted, or in a bad position until it fails . . . a good reason to check cable routing every now and again!) Thursday, May 10 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Anon, Thursday, May 10 More for Skippii about always turning the gas petcock to the off position: Those petcocks having the vacuum hose turn the gas off automatically. Those that don't have the hose, do not. The reason for turning off the gas from the carburetors is if you have a float hang on you, you will have a crankcase full of gas. Mixing gas with your oil is not good for your motor. If your floats let gas run through your carbs, gas will run through your exhaust pipes, and through your rings in the motor getting into your oil. An oil change is a must before starting up again. I always turn mine off, just to be safe. Hope this helped, thx, – Laura (note from Mama: while the problem may not be common, you can bet it will happen at the most inopportune times, so turn the petcock off!) Monday, May 14 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
kulwant, Because the pain is not in your upper body, but directly related to your sitting, I would recommend that you take a closer look at your seat. On older bikes, the seat padding could be breaking down (it has lost it's original comfort) or perhaps it was not very comfortable as originally designed. Have you heard of gel or air seat pads? This can be strapped on right over your current seat. Motorcycle Cruiser has a nice article on the subject, which will help you get started in researching your options. For shorter riders, adding an exterior pad may raise the seat height and cause problems with legs reaching the ground comfortably. In this case, one would take the seat off the bike, remove the seat covering, shave out some of the interior padding, and add a gel or foam insert. Hop onto this page and scroll down to see an example of how this is done. – Mama Monday, May 14 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Fast Eddie, Tuesday, May 15 Dear
VTwin Mama, I want to put a light bar on my bike, but I have a Memphis Shades Fats shield on it. I'm told that the Cobra light bar won't fit because of where the bracket mounts. I'm told that there is a modification that can be done to extend it about an inch. Do you know, or have you seen this done? – Rhonda Dear
Rhonda, I did find a relocation kit on the Motorcycle-Superstore site that specifically notes the need in order to install the light bar with a windshield installed. – Mama Tuesday, May 15 Dear
Petra, Dear
Patty and "Hot Flash", Of course many people would note you might have an imbalance in your front tire (proper pressure, wear on the tire on one side, rim imbalance) or even that the front fork needs maintenance (forks have springs to dampen road bumps and vibration) . . . I guess I would expect your vibration to be apparent in other speed ranges, but depending on the mileage on your bike, you may want to look into these things as well. There is a specific discussion board for VStar 650 owners, which you can find on my Bike Fix: Help by Make/Model page. Otherwise, I'm hoping VStar 650 owners will chime in with their notes. – Mama Tuesday, May 15 Hi, It starts well enough if I give it choke (sometimes needs gas too). Idles down fairly quickly. Then my fun begins. When I give it gas it sputters. It may go or it may stall. If I get moving on it, it misses unless I am actively pushing it to accelerate. No slow gentle start possible. And maybe no rapid start either. Eventually it warms up after about 10 minutes of stuttering around. Then the idle is too fast. I am planning to change the spark plugs. Do you have any other suggestions for me while I'm at it? This is all new to me and I hope not too complex. I haven't had to do anything to the LS650. – Kate Dear
Kate, Bikes need a balanced mix of air and gas to run correctly (and spark to ignite the mess). Definitely pull the plugs and note their condition. Replace them and run the bike and see if there is a difference (worn or cracked plugs can't ignite the gas correctly). Also remove the cover over the carb and check the cleanliness of the air filter. Clean or replace. Then move down to where your exhaust pipes connect to the bike . . . check that this is nice and tight. It sounds like the previous owner increased the idle speed in order to keep the bike running, instead of fixing a problem. Why do I think this? Because you have to have the choke on to start the beastie and I'm not aware that Intruders need this unless it's really, really cold out. My guess (if it's not the plugs) . . . you've got water in the system. At the bottom of the carb is a drain plug. Turn off the gas petcock, open the plug, and drain into an open container (bike not running). Note if you've got water mixed in with gas and if there are yuck particles (this will separate into layers). If so, reinstall the plug, drain the tank (there is a tube that leads to the carb, open the petcock, drain into bucket). Or, leave the gas in the tank and add a gas stabilizer . . . this will help wick out any water in the gas lines, etc. On your next tank of gas add a carb cleaner solution (available at any auto parts store). If the new sparkplugs and carb drain straighten out the general running, get the idle set correctly. Invest $30 for an aftermarket service manual specific to your year/make/model bike and read up on maintenance and troubleshooting . . . best tool you'll ever buy! Online sources for these can be found on my Education Center page. If all of these steps are too much, get it to a shop and let them clean it out and reset all the idle/mix screws back to factory. At the time you bring it in, tell them you are interested in learning about maintenance and you would appreciate specific notes on what they had to do to get the bike back to rights. These will be your future maintenance clues! – Mama Tuesday, May 15 Dear
VTwin Mama, Now the bike's clutch will not engage; further more, when I put the bike in gear I am able to roll it forward and backward but has extreme resistance. The bike starts up but I just can't get the clutch to engage, have adjusted it at both ends and even replaced the cable with a new one last night to no avail. When I start it up in neutral everything is fine but it stalls out when I shift into first because of the clutch not engaging. Question 1: Is the clutch bad since I am able to move the bike with it being in gear? Question 2: Could this be repaired myself or should I take it in for service? – Flavor of the Month Dear
Flavor, If the bike is in gear with the clutch lever pulled in and there is resistance in rolling, then the clutch is dragging (not fully disengaged). Because it's stalling when going into first, that could also indicate that the clutch is already engaging with the clutch lever pulled in (it stalls because when a clutch is partially engaged, it wants gas to go). This is an indicator that there is too much freeplay at the clutch lever cable adjustment. If you installed that new cable and made adjustments without benefit of the service manual, I would advise that you plunk down $30 and get one. There are specific steps to the installation and adjustment that need to be followed. Beyond that could be a problem with the clutch plates themselves. Sticky oil deposits on the plates are not allowing the plates to separate when you pull in the clutch lever. Also, the spring tension on the plates could be incorrect. This is less likely given the test ride was clear, but if that bike sat for awhile (previous owner wasn't riding it), I wouldn't completely rule it out. Immediately drain the oil, replace the oil filter and refill to the correct level. That's all I can think of at the moment . . . I would do these steps and then head to a shop if you can't clear up the problem. – Mama Friday, May 18 Dear
VTwin Mama, Dear
Leslie, Wednesday, May 23 For bethrl about installing a battery in a 1996 Yamaha Virago: What is the name of the battery? You should be using 16AL-A2, after market BikeMaster is the cheaper of the lot. When sliding the battery in, the positive side should slide in first . Be sure to make the connection, then slide the battery in ¾ of the way in. And then connect the negative terminal. Connect vapor/drip house and close it up. It's as simple as that. Regards, – Rex Teggatz (note from Mama: thanks for sharing!) Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Anon, So at this point my best advice is to get the service manual, which is a good $30 investment for the aftermarket version (my Education Center page has online sources if the dealer doesn't have one in stock). Even if you're not a whiz at reading schematics, you'll see the symbols and boxes that call out all the components in the system and that will help you realize what else might be happening. There is a VN750 discussion forum that you might find useful to pose your question as of course these are owners who might be able to point you in the right direction very quickly . . . I see they have a very well delineated technical section and the board looks very active. If any of my VN750 riders have any clues, now is the time to chime in! – Mama Tuesday, May 29 From Anon whose bike simply stalled when going into gear: Thank you for your response. I did indeed find the problem. It is the clutch switch on the handle bars. I unplugged if and bypassed with a jumper wire. Thanks again. – Anon (note from Mama: I'm glad it was something relatively simple . . . I guess I'm going to have to brush up on the location of all likely safety switches they install these days and even back a bit. So, so far it's kickstand switch and clutch switch!) Tuesday, May 29 Hi Mama, Dear
Anon, Remember, you can always call the local dealer's service department . . . they are usually good for a quick type question like yours.– Mama |
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