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2007 (June through August) Friday, June 1 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Scott, Hope this helps noodle out your next steps! Mama Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
zinch33, Monday, June 4 Dear VTwin Mama, After I took the link out and put the chain back together and rode it around the block I still heard the sound but now it was more clear and noticeable. When I stopped I put it in neutral to see if I could see anything. Well lol the chain has certain spot where it gets really tight with no slack at all but when I roll it maybe 2" it loosens up and has its 1" of slack. If I keep rolling it, it tightens and loosens again. I'm not sure if this will matter but it has been modified some. Its been lowered all the way in the rear which is probably due to taken out the suspension and making it a rigid, which was done by the guy I bought it from, As far as a I know he did not mod any of the drive train. Can you please help!!!!!! My email is decencyxdefied@aol.com . . . anyone can email me if they have any help for me, lol Anonymous Dear
Anon, Tensioning bolts that are all the way out is a sign that the chain has given it's last . . . they don't really stretch, but lose lubrication that elongates the chain. Get a new chain (taking a link out is not the proper fix). Then I'd look at the sprocket teeth . . . if they are worn nubs, it's time for new sprockets . . . not sure what you're seeing . . . head to the local dealer's parts department and have them haul a new one out so you can see the difference. Bring a picture of yours and you'll have the answer. Uneven teeth could be the answer why the chain is slacker at certain points of wheel travel. None of this is due to the modifications (highly doubtful) . . . just age and miles and quite normal. But make it right as soon as possible . . . you don't want to be riding and have the chain jump the teeth . . . that can cause a really bad accident. Mama Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Kay, Thursday, June 7 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Deb, So, first the speedometer and odometer. These are not fused, so there is no fuse to check for. Most likely if you follow the cable down, you'll find it ends at either the front or back tire rim. That's where it screws in in some fashion, looking at the rim for rotation information. Sometimes they loosen up and then finally to the point where they can't read the information any more. Either that or the cable has gone south or the actual unit has died (but this is less likely). The turn signals are probably fused, but if they work manually, then I doubt you have a fuse issue. The way most signals are made to be self-canceling is that there is a liquid switch within the system. So, when you've turned on the signal, it's blinking, when you make the turn and the bike is leaning, the liquid sloshes to one side of the capsule and triggers the connection and when you right the motorcycle again, the liquid moves again and disconnects the electrical connection, thus canceling the signal. It's highly unlikely that the two problems are related although it's weird that they both happened at the same time, so I wouldn't completely rule it out. Without a service manual though I can't research more about it. While the local dealer won't troubleshoot the problems over the phone too much, they could answer the question whether the two problems are likely to be related. Mama Friday, June 8 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Kevin, Sometimes you can adjust the mix screw just a bit richer (a bit more gas) and it will remove the backfire. If you recently changed the exhaust or air system (aftermarket upgrade, etc.) you could be running lean and the carbs need to be rejetted. That's all the info I can offer. Mama Wednesday, June 13 Hi
Mama, After about 4 miles, it started coughing and sputtering so bad that I didn't think I would make it back home. It stalled several times at lights. Do you have any idea? The plugs are fine, I checked them. Thanks for your help. Mike Dear
Mike, My first thought is water. If this bike sat, it's possible that condensation has resulted in water collected within the gas system. Gumout wouldn't wick it out, but there are products that are designed specifically to wick water out of gas. However, I would start by looking at your carb(s) . . . at the very bottom should be a drain plug, which screws in. If you have a petcock, turn it to off, undo the plug, have a clear container handy, and drain the carb float bowl. Gas, water, and ickies will separate in the container. Do you have water? If so, the drain will help, but now you may wish to get that additive to get any water out of the gas tank and lines. It's possible that small ickies are trapped at the fuel filter, so check that as well. It's also possible that the air filter is clogged and not allowing enough air to mix with the gas in the carb. Clean or replace. Hopefully these will resolve the dilemma! Mama Wednesday, June 13 Dear VTM, Dear
ET, The brake light staying on could simply be something wrong in the taillight, as activating either brake triggers the taillight brake light. These are usually dual filament bulbs, one filament to always be on and one to activate with the brake. Double check the bulb and the surrounding insert area for corrosion. It could just be a poor contact. But honestly, I'm not sure if this is the intent of your brake warning light . . . I simply couldn't find anything useful about the realities of the low fuel circuitry, i.e. like what type of switch is used. In my service manual, I can trace the light to the corresponding area for troubleshooting. A service manual is a wonderful $30 investment, but remember, local dealer's service departments will answer quick questions like yours with best guesses based on experience. Still, I would also get the manual . . . check with the dealer or visit my Education Center page for online sources. Mama Wednesday, June 13 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
J., In reading The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance, which is really a primer on all things "how it works," it is noted that carbs have a high-speed circuit. The high-speed circuit is comprised of the main jet, the needle jet and the tapered needle. The needle jet starts things off at cruising speed, then the tapered needle moves further out for more fuel flow, and "finally, as the throttle is opened past three-quarters throttle, all fuel flow is controlled by the main jet." So, the question becomes, which jets did they redo? Probably the main one, but maybe the other two need adjustment or resizing as well. Since the hypercharger (also called a big air kit) is all about air, it's the gas flow that needs attention. Now, I'm also reading that the float circuit's (that's the float bowl and stuff in the carb) job is to "ensure that all of the other circuits have the fuel they need." Given the year of the bike, it's conceivable that the carb itself needs some attention . . . there could be some gumming up or water in the carb (drain the float bowls by removing the screw at the very bottom of the carb and put some gas additive in with a new tank of gas to help clean out the whole system. The additive might be all it really needs! Hope these ideas give you some next steps to consider. Mama Thursday, June 21 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Jessica, Here is a VStar 650 page on doing the task of shaving a seat yourself . . . it will give you basic steps to look at. You should be able to order an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacture) replacement seat for your bike from any Suzuki dealer. I wasn't able to find anything aftermarket . . . often times, as you note, it takes up to a year before these types of offerings are brought to market. Readers, any sources you can find? Mama Monday, June 25 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Marshall, Dear Mama, Dear
Mid Life Crisis, Hello Mama! Dear
Don, It looks like that year/make/model already has forward foot controls, but you might want to add an engine guard with integrated footpegs (if it doesn't have this already) that will allow you to stretch your legs on longer rides a bit more. Have fun! Mama Friday, June 29 Dear VTwin Mama! Dear
Terry, The majority opinion seems to be that it's better to look over a windshield than through it. Still, it is a personal choice. Riders who elect to look through have mentioned that they simply carry a wipe rag with them so they are always at the ready to clean during riding rests to ensure vision isn't impaired. If it's bothering you (beyond the glare), I'd get it cut down. Mama Monday, July 2 For Mid Life Crisis whose VStar 650 has a drive train whine: If it sounds like the Jetson's space car it's probably ok. You may want to check out the lube on the driveshaft splines; there have been some failures. Also, a change of rear drive oil wouldn't hurt. As Mama said check out the 650 Delphi forum and the 650 CC&D website . . . great resources for information and DIY for the 650. Komiko (note from Mama: thanks! I was trying to remember the Jetson's car sound and found it online . . . it's hilarious to hear again!) Hi Mama, Perhaps your VStar readers could let me know how many km/miles they are getting on a tank of gas. Thanks !! Denise Dear
Denise, Tuesday, July 3 For Denise who was wondering about her low gas mileage: Gas mileage on the Vstar 650, I have an '07 Classic and I get close to 150-160 miles before I have to switch to reserve; then I know I can go another 15 or so miles. By the way VT Mama, thanks for the site. I visit almost everyday and love it. Becky (note from Mama: glad you are enjoying the site and thanks for your gas mileage realities!) Tuesday, July 3 For Don who is tall and worried about "knees in ears" while on a 750: I too have a long leg issue (34" inseam). Everyone has a fix for short riders but none for tall! I have a 750 Aero and I noticed on long rides I would start pushing myself back into the seat to try and stretch my legs. Well, I ended up with a sore bum and sore legs. So I looked into forward controls and lets just say $800 for them was too steep. I did find "foot control relocaters" at a much more reasonable price. Easy to install and it gave me about 3 inches (forward). They also have them for the Spirit because my husband put some on his ' 05 Spirit. He found his on eBay (I found mine on Cruiser Customizing, over $100, free shipping to Canada) I have also pulled back my handlebars so I lean back when I ride. These 2 things keeps my knees and groin more straight or "open" so the blood flows better. I find I don't get sore anymore. One more thing, pants that bunch up behind the knees and groin also seems to stop the blood flowing. Hope so this makes sense and helps you. Cathy in Ontario (note from Mama: how interesting . . . I usually associate pullback risers for short riders reach, but you've given me a new perspective on that tactic!) Monday, July 9 More for Denise who was wondering about her low gas mileage: I have a 2006 V-Star Classic. I have driven 170 miles on my bike
without using the reserve tank. I have never made it to the reserve. I
always try to fill up when it get around 150 miles, but I decided to do a
test one day. I knew there was a gas station on down the road. Are you
filling it up to the rim? I hope you figure out the problem because that
doesnt sound right. Good luck. Monday, July 9 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
James, While it's true that sometimes one can find partial details on the Internet, rarely is a complete manual offered up for free (lots of times you'll find the owners manual, but that's NOT the service manual). Mama Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Neal, Tuesday, July 17 Even more for Denise who was wondering about her low gas mileage: I have a 2007 650 Classic and love it. When I first got it I averaged 57 miles per gal. Then I added many things to it including a 22" windshield, passing lamps, big saddle bags and now I get 50 miles to the gal . 156 miles from full tank to time to turn reserve on. That's with two people on it (about 385 lbs). Anonymous (note from Mama: thanks for sharing detailed info on changes and the resulting change to gas mileage!) Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Mike, I did read some chitchat that the number of times it flashes, or if there is a pattern, may be what they look at, but without a service manual I cannot offer more insights to that. A call to the dealer's service department would quickly sort out if you can test this yourself or need to come in for a read-out. Mama Wednesday, July 18 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Deb, Unfortunately it is my understanding that there is no service manual currently available for the V5 (or the counterpart QLink Legacy, which is the same motorcycle). One really needs a wiring diagram to ascertain the exact routing, etc. I would search for the nearest CF Moto or QLink dealer and ask the service department for their advice. They may have enough info over the phone to help you. Mama Wednesday, July 18 Dear VTwin Mama, Thanks, Gilad Nahari Dear
Gilad, Yes, it's possible that in something you did installing the new light system has created a short to ground that is draining the battery very slowly, but usually a short to ground doesn't just trickle something out it drains in a relatively short time. The only thing you can do is recheck your wiring to be sure that no wires have rubbed down to the bare metal somewhere (if that exposed wire section touches the frame, that would be a short to ground). Otherwise, the light kit itself shouldn't be causing a drain (unless something is staying on all the time). You can purchase a trickle charger (like the Battery Tender) for the battery so that it automatically recharges as needed, but remember, you still have to check water levels, etc. as needed. As to putting on new pipes this winter, I find that if you talk/email with the dealer/product supplier, they should know whether those new forward controls will create a problem. Have a digital picture of that section at the ready to email over so they can see the set-up if they are not 100% sure. In looking at online pictures of the 1994 Virago 535, I can see that one pipe loops toward the front and therein of course is your concern. Still, from what I can see, that pipe is underneath and to the inner side of the current rear brake pedal set-up and travels forward enough and to the side enough before looping upward for the connection. I don't see that a forward control would interfere with the current pathway and therefore shouldn't interfere with an aftermarket choice in pipes, if pipes are chosen for your specific year/make/model motorcycle. Mama Wednesday, July 18 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Dan, Friday, July 20 For Neal who has an older gas tank with some pinholes in it: I've used this product from Eastwood Company to restore auto fuel tanks; if you follow the directions it should restore your tank. As to the pin holes if they're too big, you can take your tank to any local fabrication shop and they should be able to fix it for a reasonable cost. JenWV. (note from Mama: thanks for sharing this insight!) Friday, July 20 From Denise who reported poor gas mileage and is updating us: Hi Mama, just wanted to give you (and your VStar 650 riders) an update on my gas mileage. The first time I clocked it I only got 166 km's/103 miles to a tank before I had to go to reserve. Very Low !! The second time I clocked it at 190 km's/118 miles before I had to go to reserve. An improvement, however, according to the feedback I've been receiving, it's still very low. I'm on my third 'test' now so will see how that goes. In the meantime, my bike is ready for servicing and I will speak to the mechanic about it. Right now I have about 1,500 km's/932 miles on it so I suppose it's still going through the 'breaking in' period ?? Denise (note from Mama: yes, a break in period is necessary but is really about not pushing the motorcycle to its limits within the first 500-1000 miles or so. This should not be affecting gas mileage, so I would definitely review your measurements when you bring it in for service. I think the number one question at this point is what portion of the overall gallon capacity is the main tank and what portion makes up the reserve section. With your kms before the reserve is needed, they should be able to calculate whether something is out of whack, which it seems to be. Still, I'm glad you're not reporting that the motorcycle is running poorly, but one really does want to get to the bottom (!) of the low gas mileage calculation.) Dear VTwin Mama, I came back a few days later, tried to hop on, and there was no electrical activity, no lights on the console, no turn signals, horn, brakes, etc. I have been using a multimeter to try and remedy this problem; it seems as if my main ignition switch is ok, but I am not 100% sure that the main ignition is not the source. I also checked the fuse and it is still intact but I cannot find the source of my problem. I am at a loss as to what I need to test, any suggestions you could give would be greatly appreciated. You may share my e-mail with as many people as you see necessary if it can help put some juice into my old bike again. Thank you very much for your time, Jon Cahill Dear
Jon, Thursday, July 26 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
C., If that's not it, I'd be looking at your carb next. Open up the drain plug at the bottom of the carb and let it run into a clear container and see if you've got small particles and/or water (it all separates out in layers). Mama Thursday, July 26 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Jean, Or, you can head to a few Virago-specific forums that I've got listed on my Help By Make/Model page. I hope one of these ideas leads you to the information you seek! Mama Thursday, July 26 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Paul, So, the first thing to check is that the fuse installed in the correct rating. Next is to check what circuit it is protecting. That requires the electrical schematic, which you may find online, but that's rarely the case. So, if you don't have a service manual for this year/make/model, it's time to invest $30. Online sources for manuals can be found on my Education Center page. Looking at a parts diagram, I see that there are three fuses on this motorcycle, (2) 10A and (1) 30A. Smaller amp fuses are used to protect light circuits, while higher amp rating is for things like starters, regulators, pumps or alternators. So now I'm guessing you're blowing the 30A fuse and from that I would deduce that a major component is beginning to crap out on you. I'd check all connections and look for any obvious signs of a wire being rubbed raw and exposing a wire to ground (the bike's frame). I'd also double check the battery connections for tightness and corrosion. Mama For zinch33 who has a Ninja 250 with continually fouling spark plugs: I am not sure if this will help but I have a Kawasaki KX 125 and the plugs kept fouling on the bike. I would get maybe 2 to 5 hours on a plug and then have to change the plug. Totally frustrated I took the bike back to the dealer and told them to fix it. They had the bike for two weeks and could not find a problem. They told me that we were NOT riding the bike hard enough and to take the bike and ride the hell out of it and do not let it sit there and idle for any length of time. I thought to myself that did not make any sense but what do I know as I am not a mechanic so we took their advise and my son drove the heck out of the bike and it lasted two hours at the most and then I noticed him walking the bike back again. So I went over to a local dealer who stocked the plugs for me as he did not deal with Kawasaki but he said if I would buy the plugs he would stock them for me. We were using a NGK Platinum or Titanium plug (can't remember which) it's been a while since I bought them and the cost was approx. $22 to $27 each. And I had him look at the bike and explained the problem I was having so he looked at the bike and told me there could be a problem with the electrical system but he did not have the proper tools in his shop and told me I should go back to the original dealer or contact Kawasaki to find out the problem. Totally frustrated and mad by this time (I have been around bikes for a long time 30 + years and have never run into something like this). It was a long weekend and my son wanted to ride that weekend I was tired of paying so much money for plugs and my son could not ride with his friends because you never knew when the bike was going to die. I went to Canadian Tire and looked up a similar type spark plug, the old fashion kind without all the fancy numbers in front of the main numbers and the bigger electrodes on the bottom and you get two in a pack for around $5 to $7. (Added note: went from a NGK plug to a Champion). Stuck the plug in the bike and we never looked back; as a matter of fact we just changed the plug this year as the bike was getting a little hard to start but that other plug we ran for approx eighteen months and never had a problem and we are still using the same type plug to this day. We are even racing with that plug in and the bike never stops; we put in the high octane fuel and an octane booster and the bike just keeps going. I talked to the local dealer about six months after I took the bike to him and he asked me how the bike was running so I explained to him I changed the plug and he was totally amazed. Anyways I am not sure if this would help you but it sounds like you are having the exact same problem that I was having and this is how we solved our issues Regards, Danny (note from Mama: interesting! We've certainly heard that plugs in the wrong heat range can cause problems, but that a fancier version of a plug might not be the ticket is new to me and I'm hoping it will help zinch.) Monday, August 6 For Danny who offered input on bikes that won'd stop fouling plugs: Thanks Danny. I really appreciate the response and it helps to know that someone else has shared my pain. I'm BEYOND frustrated with my bike. I haven't done anything with it this year and I get jealous every time I see a bike out on the streets. I've taken it to the dealer a few times and have called them and all they tell me is I need to replace the plugs and I'm riding it wrong. Being a new rider I didn't know what to do so I trust them. Same as you, they tell me I need to ride it longer and heat it up more. I wanted a bike for pleasure. I ride it back and forth to work, which is less than 10 miles away. If it keeps breaking down on me (I've been stranded twice on busy roads when it's stalled on me) I don't trust myself to go out riding very far. I do have NGK plugs so maybe I'll try getting some Champion ones. Everyone keeps telling me to sell my bike 'cause its costing me so much in repairs but I love it too much to do that. Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate it. zinch33 (note from Mama: I'm hoping this will make a difference. Remember to cross reference check between NGK and Champion to get the right one!) Tuesday, August 7 For Anderson whose bike's turn signals only work after riding for 4-5 miles: You have a bad turn signal relay. It takes a few minutes for it to warm up. Then works fine. You can replace with a 2 prong auto #555 or 557 flasher, just dont hook up the green ground wire on the factory wiring harness. Anonymous (note from Mama: thanks for this insight!) Dear VTwin Mama, Like a previous e-mailer so eloquently said , "I felt like a Freak without a brain " !!! My question is: why would the spark plugs be fouled already, since I just purchased the bike in June ? The dealer that sold me the bike said everything was checked out thoroughly on her before I purchased her. It's a 2002 -- originally purchased from the same dealer, with only 2,400 miles on it. It had been running fine until I heard it sputtering when I went to start her last week. I checked the normal stuff -- kill switch off, bike in neutral, ignition on, petcock on, adjusted the choke. Everything I could think of. Then I happened to check my gas tank and saw that the gas was extremely low. I had assumed that the dealer gave me a full tank so I was checking my mileage based on that, but lo and behold, I only had about 2 gallons instead of the 4 gallons I thought I had. I filled her up with gas, but she still wouldn't start. Even with running 'almost' out of gas, why would the plugs have been fouled so soon? Should I ask the dealer about flushing the gas tank or the fuel line? Or is this just a lesson for a novice biker? Lesson #1 - always check your sparkplugs if your ride won't start!!! And I'm gonna ask for a break in the repair price -- most of which is the durn towing cost !!! Arrgh !! PS: I've ordered Zimmerman's Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance, so I can learn some basics about motorcycle mechanics.. Thanks much, Nancy (a Michigan "Freak without a Brain" !) Dear
Nancy, A motorcycle delivers a pretty precise mix of air and gas from the carbs to the cylinders, where the spark plug ignites the mixture, thus driving the piston inside the cylinder. When we say a plug is fouled, it means that the end of the plug, where the spark is created, can't do it's job because it's being presented with too much gas and is literally being drowned! So, when you kept trying to crank it over, you kept delivering more and more gas and the plug situation just got worse and worse. Had you pulled the plugs, you could have wiped them off, let the holes they screw in air out, and probably all would have been fine. Except for one thing. Why was too much gas being delivered in the first place? The clue is in your check procedure. It sounds like you're opening up the choke to start the motorcycle. Opening the choke delivers more gas than normal, and is useful in cold weather starts. Otherwise, a choke is used incorrectly because the air/gas mix in the carb is off ... and the carb needs to be adjusted (or cleaned, etc.). Yes, there are some motorcycles who only correctly start with a specific choke open position (I rode one for awhile), but that's not usually the case. So, don't open the choke. It the bike doesn't start after hitting the start button once or twice, then you've got some adjustment or maintenance to do. Mark Zimmerman's book is going to help immensely! I consider it one of my most useful sources of information and have learned lots in researching questions that come to this site. Mama Wednesday, August 15 For Nancy in Michigan whose bike fouled the plugs and wouldn't start for nothin': I had this issue when I first got my HD. If you rev the engine with the choke open, you will foul the plugs and it will not start next time. I did this when I was new. I learned to let the bike warm up with the choke open, close the choke, then give it some gas to get rid of the rest of the chop. This is part of learning the bike. Mine will not start with the choke closed. jojo (note from Mama: thanks for that added note about revving when the choke is open and what happens.) From Nancy: I actually got my baby back Monday!!! I was all set for a fight, but the service guy was GREAT !! He was surprised that the plugs were fouled, too. He mentioned that maybe I needed to occasionally "blow out" the carbs by revving the throttle hard (while the bike is in neutral, of course). I think his theory was that smaller cc bikes run harder so maybe you tend to get some build-up?? (I don't know if I'm explaining it too well !!! ) But in the end the dealer paid for the tow and the repair work so instead of me shelling out $94 for that, I can use that money for a open face helmet with a shield.. So I'm a happy chick !! Nancy (note from Mama: hmmm . . . see jojo's note if you're going to do a rev blow!) Friday, August 17 Dear VTwin Mama, Just got an '03 Suzuki Marauder VZ800 with less than 500 miles on it. Problem is the choke don't choke so well unless I pull it out the last 1/8 inch or so of which I have to hold. Also when I release the throttle to shift, the engine continues at high RPM's for a spell then settles down to norm idle. I tried something to further diagnose my issues and at highway speeds I released the throttle then pulled the clutch in. Waited for the engine to calm down, then without moving the throttle, I released the clutch and the engine went back to highway RPM's as I expected, but when I pulled the clutch in again the engine continued at those RPM's for a bit. The closest I can figure from investigating is the varnish has built up in the carbs (why 2? GGGRRRR) So far I have run "Sea Foam" a type of carb cleaner thru a tank and yet no change. Hopefully not to confusing on my procedures. Thanks in advance. Eric T. Dear
Eric, From Mark: It sounds like there are two or three issues here. First the choke should stay in position, and it shouldn't be necessary to force it that last 1/8 inch. The bike has so few miles on it that it's entirely possible the choke circuit has gummed up from stale fuel or it may be that it needs adjusting and the linkage cleaned and lubricated. The "floating idle" as it's called is normally due to a lean condition or carbs that are out of synch. The first thing is to look for the simple things , a sticky throttle cable, or one that's out of adjustment will cause the problem as will an improperly adjusted pilot mixture. I'd also recommend checking the carb to manifold clamps and the manifolds themselves in case there's a leak. if nothing concrete is discovered it's time to dismantle the carbs, give them a proper cleaning and make sure they're synchronized properly. BTW with the set up the Marauder uses that last may be a job for your favorite Suzuki dealer. Mark Friday, August 17 From Nancy in Michigan who had starting problems: Thanks for the help on my fouled plugs problem, Petra !! From now on, I'm gonna stay away from the choke entirely when I start her up, unless it's cold outside. Also I read somewhere that I should NOT be revving the throttle immediately after the bike starts, even with the choke off. I used to blip the throttle (kind of like when you press down on the accelerator in a car a little bit after a hard start). Apparently this can also flood the carbs ??? So I guess that whole "revving the throttle" to blow off crap should be done after the bike is sufficiently warmed up ... I also forgot to mention that the service guy did say that the idle was set a little low as well, so maybe that will make a difference now in the start. We'll see ... I just got my Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance book yesterday.. So I'll be reading that to gain some much needed mechanical knowledge on bikes. I'd like to eventually be able to do some basic stuff, changing the oil, lubing the chain, changing out sparkplugs, etc. I don't mind getting dirty !!! A quick question: isf there any online source where I can find out exactly where the spark plugs are located for a Vulcan 500? I thought I read something about them being hard to access. They definitely are not easily visible, like most bikes I've seen.. And yes, I do plan on getting a service manual for my bike in the near future. Thanks again for the help !! PS -- I got a full face HJC Cl-14 helmet yesterday. Local dealer was having a 50% sale so that worked out great ! Nancy (note from Mama: good for you, you're learning what you can and cannot do in order to avoid a plug foul and yes, a low idle would cause one to either rev or open the chock to get that beastie going. I had sent you an email with a pic of what plug wires look like, but I'm not sure that's really a help. Any readers out there with a Vulcan and spark plug location info? I couldn't find it on the Internet.) Dear VTwin Mama, I don't have a problem with anything but the start (I'm to darn old for a Sportster knee). Can an electric start be added and do you have resource ideas for parts, etc. to DIY it. Thanks, Back In The Wind Dear
Back In The Wind, I would hop onto the Sporster.org site; you'll find a contact page and can email in your question. Or you could call the local Harley dealer and talk with the Service Department Manager. Better yet, call all the area independent shops until you find an old-timer Harley mechanic. These guys have a wealth of info at their finger tips and mine proved invaluable on my last bike, a '76 Superglide. Any readers out there who have a more definitive answer?!?! Mama Monday, August 20 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Jeff, Are you sure the battery has not tanked on you? You could have quickly discharged that battery if something grounded, so get a voltmeter and take a reading across the terminals. That's all I can think of at this point. Mama Monday, August 20 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
John, Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Mike, Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Stumped, Nope, not stupid, just not apprised of the situation until some more digging was done! It's not like Yami calls it out on their specs page! Mama Wednesday, August 22 For Mike with two newer Sportys that blow oil through the air cleaner: I used to have this problem with my 2002 Sporty. When I upgraded to a Screaming Eagle air cleaner and had it re-jetted, it stopped. You might find the information I found through the Sportster.org site helpful. I loved my Sporty. RebelOne58 (note from Mama: excellent link to a highly useful article on the subject!) I have a 2005 883L and have not had this problem. I mentioned it to my DH and he suggested a "Krank Vent Plus" made by Hayden Enterprises. Good luck, Tricia (note from Mama: another product that holds promise) Wednesday, August 22 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Aero Rider, I would start with a closer inspection of the front tire. Certainly look at the thread depth at the center, but also look for uneven wear at the sides, and even a possible worn, flat spot. While you're at it, look at the rear tire. If you're not confident in your assessment, ride to the local dealer and ask a service person to come out and take a look. Note if the bike seems to want to track to one side or the other; that could be an alignment issue. If all seems well with the tires, then I would suspect that something is amiss with the front fork that holds the wheel. The front fork has a spring and rods inside of it and bathed in oil. Some are adjustable. There are also seals that keep dirt out and the oil in. If the seals are leaking a bit, you could be loosing oil, and thus changing the damping effect the front fork is meant to offer (taken bumps in the road). Here's an exploded parts diagram to give you an idea of what's involved. It's possible that all that is needed is a readjustment (as the spring does change as it ages). Start with these inspections and see if you don't find the cause. Mama Wednesday, August 22 Regarding Stumped in Ontario's finding that one exhaust pipe is just decorative: From what you found, did this design apply to other years of Virago 250? My '96 has had straight pipes fitted to it. I don't see any exhaust pipe running "underneath" and into the top pipe. I have not yet tested whether one pipe is cold or whether they both have air coming out of them. I assume this arrangement, i.e the pipe I have looking like it comes off the back cylinder but not actually doing anything, might cause some problems? Also I wanted to replace the current system with the originals. Now I am thinking why spend $330 plus dollars for one dummy pipe? Powderaven (note from Mama: I only received an email noting the possibility, which proved to jive with what Stumped found out. I simply can't find anything on the Internet as to what year this system change was made. If any of the local dealers were open, I would have called, so that's what I suggest you do. Faster to start the bike, let it warm up, and then drizzle a little water on the pipes for hot test. I'm guessing you have two "live" pipes since you can't find anything connecting into one another.) Thursday, August 23 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Kim, "Since only about one third of the fuel's potential energy does any real work, the rest being converted into heart and noise, you can imagine how much more efficiently our engines would run if we could harness the exhaust's power. That's exactly what a well-designed exhaust system tries to do." "Ideally, an exhaust system can harness the energy left in the hot exhaust gases to help increase engine power using a phenomenon known as scavenging. When the pulse of exhaust gases hits the expansion area of the pipe, the gases slow down and expand, which then creates a negative wave that flows back toward and into the exhaust port. If the engineers did their homework correctly, the negative wave hits the exhaust valve and flows in through the open exhaust valve." "Normally, the muffler of a street bike damps down exhaust pulses. It also increases the range over which the negative pulses do their thing [evacuate any residual exhaust gases and help pull fresh mixture in]; this jump starting can provide a substantial torque boost." So given this overview, one can see that changing the original design of the exhaust system can require changes. If the new pipes or mufflers let exhaust gases slide out with little reverse capture, you get noise. You also are not recapturing gases and so the carb(s) need to feed more "new" mixture. Reduction in flow is the opposite; you could end up with carb(s) offering too much fuel and creating a rich system. And this is why, normally, one needs to re-jet carb(s) when a change to the exhaust system is made. The carb takes in fuel and air, mixes it, and sends it to the cylinders where the spark plugs fire the mixture to drive the pistons in the cylinders, creating the necessary power. You don't want to starve or flood the system, but maintain the original balance. Thus, the carb(s) are re-jetted so that the jets can deliver the right stuff! Please take a look at this Cobra page specific to your year/make/model. There you will find the instructions for installation. You will note that they recommend a specific re-jet kit. Take them seriously! Now on to the K&N air filter. This is the specific item for your motorcycle. In the instructions it notes, "This filter can be used in a stock machine, with no modifications required. If any engine modifications have been made, tuning/jetting adjustments may be required." So, my recommendation is that you change to the K&N filter first, note if all is well with the running of the motorcycle, and then add your new exhaust slip-ons and re-jet. Opening carb(s) can be done by an individual, but it's easy enough to get into trouble with it, so a dealer or independent shop job is really worth the money. Mama Monday, August 27 Dear VTwin Mama, Dear
Chopper Tranny Blues, So, if you don't have a shop manual, invest $25 aftermarket version or about $70 for factory version by either ordering from the local dealer or checking my Education Center page for online sources for these manuals. Mama |
