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2008 (May through . . . )

Friday, May 2

Dear VTwin Mama,
I found your site while looking around for information on my newly purchased '95 Suzuki Intruder 1400 and found your answers helpful, informative, and understandable. The bike is in excellent condition and I have already had a chance to get it out on the road and enjoy, not only the cost saving over driving my Durango, but also the riding experience. 

However, one thing is making me nervous. Twice I have gone to start my bike and the starter just clicks, the lights shut off, and the battery doesn't respond. The first time this happened, I charged the battery with the appropriate sized trickle-charger for 12 hours and it never built a charge. So, I assumed I had left the bike in Park on an older battery and I replaced it. The new battery was working fine for a week, but then I went to start it after riding about 25 miles to a remote office and the battery was dead. Any thoughts on what I need to check? Thank you, – A New Rider For A New Life

Dear A New Rider For A New Life,
It certainly seems puzzling especially with a known good battery in place. But don't panic as I have a few ideas for you to try/check.

We'll start by assuming that you've checked the actual connectors to the terminals for corrosion. In addition, it can be useful to coat the terminals with a dielectric silicone grease to reduce further problems. Given the age of the bike, it's also possible that the wires themselves are no longer in great condition.

Did you know that when the charging system is failing, a battery can keep the bike's ignition system running on that alone for about three or four hours? Therein may lie the clue. You were able to run with the new battery but it eventually lost its oomph!

So, locate your alternator and check the connections as well as the wires for anything broken, frayed, or melted. Then locate the voltage regulator/rectifier (usually mounted at the front of the bike's frame). Check that. A lot of times, that unit will fail and cause the symptoms you're having now. It can be pulled and brought to the local dealership for testing (double check by making a call first).

If those ideas don't solve it, the most likely cause is that you have a wire with an exposed area touching the frame and thus shorting to ground, which will take the battery out eventually. That's a tough one to track down and you may want to then ask the dealer's service department what systems they have available to track down a short.

I'm still putting my money on a failing/failed  regulator/rectifier or wiring problem to the alternator. – Mama

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Friday, May 2

Dear VTwin Mama,
I was adding a sissy bar to my 2007 HD Sportster 1200N. Just accessing the nuts to get this thing in was a task in itself. I don't know if you have experience with this bike, but you have to slip the side bracket in behind the bolt that holds the rear lamps in place. While loosening the nut that holds this bolt tight, the rear lamps came loose instead of the nut. You see, the lamp assembly is held to the bike by a bolt that is threaded at both ends...it is NOT a very good design. Because of the way this thing is assembled, I have to physically turn this bolt from the inside of the bike to tighten the lamp assembly back up. There is about 3/32" space to work in and I am looking for tips. Thanks, – Jim

Dear Jim,
Congrats on the new Nighster! Although I don't have specific experience with this model, in looking at the pictures I can see the dilemma and I often find that working on a motorcycle means tight spaces and tricky situations.

Honestly, I think your quickest path to understanding how to successfully get this job done is to call your local dealer's service department (weekdays typically are better) and find out what they would do (i.e. remove the fender, etc.). I never hesitate to contact a service department for tips and tricks ... I find if you don't ramble on, but keep it straight to the point, a service person will give you a good clue.

Readers with this make/model with experience, please chime in! – Mama

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Monday, May 5

More for Sherri who was working on adding wind deflectors for her VStar 1300:

Any one looking for lowers (air deflectors) that fit the Yamaha VStar windshields should go to Buck's Lowers. These are a well made product. – Anonymous (note from Mama: thanks for sharing ... I see there are solutions for the Roadliner, Stratoliner, and Road Star as well.)

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Tuesday, May 6

Dear VTwin Mama,
I am trying to adjust a 2003 Honda VLX to fit my girlfriend. She is having trouble with the side panels sticking out too far. She likes the way my 1996 Shadow fits her. The side panels on it don't stick out. 

Also she wants the handle bars pulled back . If you could steer me in the right direction for a set of pull back risers I would greatly appreciate it. By the way, I have used your site for many ideas and information since I run with a short crowd. Thanks for the information. Its the best that I have found on the web. – WTD

Dear WTD,
I'm glad to hear that you're finding useful information on the VTwin Mama site!

You'll find a number of choices for pullback risers at ScootWorks and even a picture with one set installed on a VLX 600.

A letter from November 2003 indicated that a short rider on the same model bike simply removed the side covers and rode. Upon buying another bike, the covers were once again removed, but they had crafted custom leather covers so that the "look" was maintained and components sheltered. That may be something to consider, as I do not know of lower profile (narrower) side covers available. – Mama

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Wednesday, May 7

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have a 2006 Vulcan 1500 with 5,800 miles on it. I took it out of winter storage and started it. I noticed a rattle in the rear cylinder coming from the cam chain tensioner and also some noise in the valve rocker box. Twisting the throttle makes the tensioner noise louder. When the bike is hot the tensioner noise quiets down some. 

I took the bike to my local dealer and they stated that it's an air bubble in the oil line and that it shouldn't hurt the engine. They told me if it gets louder they would have to drain half the oil and replace it with automatic trans fluid. I don't know if I want to trust running the engine with an air bubble in the oil line, Is this something you run across before, could it be a faulty oil pump? Should I continue to run the bike or get a second opinion from another shop? – Ron

Dear Ron,
This question is beyond my own technical knowledge, so I turn to my friend Mark Zimmerman, author of The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance, for input. His response:

Here's the deal. As oil flows through a line it tends to carry everything it encounters, including air bubbles, with it. It is in other words a self-bleeding system. If it wasn't, every time the engine was stopped, the oil would drain into the sump, air would fill the lines and you'd run the risk of having the entrained air prevent the oil from flowing. 

There are several reasons why some fluid-carrying systems sometimes get "air-bound" but that normally involves a pocket of air that's trapped in a bend or pocket in the system and those systems typically have bleeding devices located at those points to remove the air. You might think of a radiator or old style mechanically pumped fuel injection system. 

The second issue would be filling the oil system with ATF. ATF acts as a solvent and is not suitable for use as an engine lubricant. Using it in the crankcase could do some serious damage to the engine. If the information received is coming through an authorized dealer and it's supported by Suzuki, I'd really want to see the documentation.

Update: ATF is highly detergent and is sometimes used to help flush out older car engines, especially when gunk and sludge have made the lifters sticky and that's probably why it was suggested to him as a possible cure. However I doubt very much that it'd solve his problem, and he could do some serious damage to his engine by running it with the sump half full of what is essentially a 5-weight solvent.

I'd strongly recommend first changing the oil and filter, using the factory specified oil and an OEM filter. If the noise doesn't go away, take it to a another dealer and get their opinion. – Mark

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Monday, May 12

Dear VTwin Mama,
I was wondering how I would change my throttle cable on my 2002 Honda Shadow 500. I hit a deer with it not too long ago and that is one of the things that was ruined on it. It is pinched a little bit so it sticks all the time so I can barely ride it. I went and bought a new throttle cable ... but my new problem is taking off the old one and putting on the new one. Can you give me advice on how to go about this process? – Kelsey

Dear Kelsey,
One really should have the full service manual in order to do work like this properly. Either get one from the dealer or check my Education Center page for online sources. The reason for this is that it's totally important to get this right, otherwise you could harm the transmission.

Typically one would undo the locknut at the top by the clutch cable and back out the cable at that end until you could remove it from it's pathway in the clutch lever. It's really important to memorize the exact pathway and how it goes together. Then you would follow the cable to the other end and undo it there. That's the easy part. 

In putting the new one in, you can get the top end threaded in, get the bottom attached, and start taking up the slack at the bottom. The "fine tune" adjustment is at the top then, where you want to leave about 1/8" freeplay ... that's the amount the lever will move before any real pressure is put on the clutch lever. That's done because as the bike warms up, system components expand and you need that freeplay to account for all of that.

Then your final tuning is to check that when you have the bike running, that the bike isn't trying to creep forward even with the clutch lever pulled all the way in. You also don't want any dangling of the cable at the top end.

Without the service manual, I can't really direct you any more. We'll see if we get any more specific input from a reader of this site; otherwise, you might do better to get on a message board specific to your year/make/model bike and ask the question there. I typed in "Honda Shadow 500 discussion forum" and got a number of hits from Google. – Mama

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Monday, May 12

Dear VTwin Mama,
Hey there! I have just bought a 1999 Shadow 750 ACE. The tank is trashed. What other years or models can I look for that are interchangeable? – Lil J.

Dear Lil,
I see that BikeBandit.com has an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) tank available for that year VT750C for $600. Just click on OEM, choose the year/make/model and then Fuel Tank and it will show it to you, along with all the other parts that make up that system.

I would pose the interchangeable question to your local dealer's parts department. They have powerful computers that can look up all sorts of aftermarket items that would fit the bill. – Mama

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Thursday, June 5

Dear VTwin Mama,
Saw your site online while trying to figure out what the heck happened to my Rebel. If you could steer me in the right direction, I'd be forever grateful.

I'm a beginning rider, and just bought a used 2004 Honda Rebel. My friend rode it for me to check it out, and it worked fine. I rode it for a couple of weeks and it worked fine. But, I had it in the garage for two weeks until I could get some time to practice riding it and it stalled out once or twice in the very beginning. I revved it up a bit and then it ran pretty stable. THEN, I got it to the corner, and it stalled out and wouldn't start again. : (

I checked to make sure I remembered to turn the fuel on, checked to make sure the kill switch wasn't on, I had gas in the tank, the bike was in neutral, kickstand up, it made a noise when I pushed the ignition button, lights came on...but just would NOT start.

I don't have any mechanical experience at all [Daddy wouldn't let girls help with mechanical things...oh boy], so I don't know where to start. Can you give me any suggestions? I'm so sad : (

Thanks so much, – Edie

Dear Edie,
Congrats on the Honda Rebel ... it's a nice bike to get started on!

I'm pretty sure the reason it wouldn't start again at the corner was that it was flooded. That means that gas was accumulating and the spark plugs couldn't ignite the mix correctly any more. So, the spark plugs got overly wet with gas. You would have noticed a pronounced smell of gas (most likely).

Why did this happen now?! Well, not so much because it sat, but because it was started, then stalled, then restarted several times and stuff happens!

I would do three things:
1) Pull the spark plugs and replace them (given the age of the bike). This is not difficult. If you don't have the tool, go to any auto parts store and get one. Then look at your bike near the engine. You'll see a black thick flexible rubber cable (one on each side) that caps the top of the plug. Remove the cap (it pops off), then use the spark plug wrench to unscrew the plug, and replace (go to the local dealer to get two specifically for your bike). For some more general visible guidelines, you can go to my Spark Plug page.
2) I believe your air cleaner is on the left side of the bike. It's usually a chrome cover near the engine top that juts out a bit. Look at this parts diagram to understand the cover shape you're looking for and what the filter looks like. Take the screws out and you'll see the filter. Either clean it or replace it. When this is plugged, the correct amount of air isn't mixed with the gas and causes an "over gas" situation.
3) Add some carb cleaner to a fresh tank of gas. This can be purchased from any auto parts store. Make sure to read the proportion needed for your gas tank gallon size. Run the bike with the carb cleaner.

Of course you could elect to bring the motorcycle to the local dealer and have them do this routine maintenance, which would include checking the carb settings for correct idle. But I've give it a go myself ... useful stuff to learn and you don't have to be a mechanical genius to acquire the knowledge! – Mama

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Wednesday, June 11

Dear VTwin Mama,
Hello, I love your website!  I am woman rider, have been riding about 3 years now.  I own a 2007 Suzuki C50C Boulevard (805cc).  I just ordered Vance and Hines pipes, straight shots, because I won a gift certificate through my local dealer - certificate was not for the total cost though.

My question is, my mechanic said since my bike is fuel injected that he won't have to do any carb work.  I called Vance and Hines and also J&P Cycle directly to see if my mechanic was correct.  They both said he is wrong and that I would need to install a Power Commander / Fuel Pack otherwise if this additional item is not installed it will burn up the pistons and it causes back pressure.  This would be an additional $300.  They also said most mechanics don't know this.  My bike might run fine for a couple of years, but without the power commander it would make my engine wear out faster.  My question here is do I need the additional Power Commander / Fuel Pack when putting on the new Vance and Hines pipes?

Also, my mechanic said that by putting on these new Vance and Hines straight shots (pipes) it should increase my power by about 7%.  Is this correct?

One last item, my mechanic is also installing a new air filter, a K&E - he said that will give me even more power.  Is this correct?

Since I am a woman, new rider, and I don't have a clue about what they are talking about, can you help me on the three questions I stated above. I really appreciate your help. – Sheila K.

Dear Sheila,
How fun that you won a gift certificate, but I see that now all of a sudden you may be spending more than anticipated. I put your first question to my mechanic guru, Mark Zimmerman, author of The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance. His reply: "Try the bike without the module. If it runs okay, then skip part two, which is to add the module. In all honesty though I've perked up a lot of bikes with an add-on box, but my guess is that it'll run fine without it. The ECU can only adapt to the parameters that are programmed into it and besides most are open loop systems that have fixed non-adjustable maps."

So, while I knew that a fuel injected bike could adjust for variations in altitude (less air the higher you go), I did not realize that the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) is not infinitely self-adjusting. It turns out these units look at lots of variables but if the amount of gas and air are changed (i.e. in this case you altered the exhaust parameters) to levels beyond what the ECU computer is looking for, it can't make the right call. So, try it without. If you start getting pinging when you first hit the throttle or a gas smell, the ECU isn't handling things well ... you'll probably also see a color change at the exhaust pipe (yellow or blue).

Yes, you'll see some increase in horsepower and torque but it's so dependent on how finely tuned the system is ... fine tuning is accomplished with a dyno tester, which most dealers offer ... they run the bike on a machine that measures everything and provides feedback on performance so that tweaks can be made. About $100 or so.

A new air filter, typically called a big air kit or hypercharger, brings more air into the system, which then requires more gas to mix with it to keep the right proportions. Where you'll notice more power is at the higher speeds. Instead of feeling like you're wound out at top speeds, you'll have more oomph available. Again, only a dyno test and fine tuning will bring out the very best in all of this (i.e. even more $$). – Mama

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Monday, June 16

For Sheila who is changing to V&H pipes and wondering if mods need to be done at the same time:

I also have the C50C, only the 2006 model. From all I have read on the subject, on VolusiaRiders.com, the consensus is that when just adding new aftermarket pipes, you don't need a fuel processor. But when you changer your air intake, like by adding the K&N filter, Hypercharger or Thunder Air Kit, you will need one. This is because of what you said, Petra. More air requires more fuel.  

I didn't want to go the route of a $300 Power Commander, partly because I didn't want to mess with the maps needed to program it. I bought a Cobra FI2000R, which is about $160 if you look around on line. I did have the dealer install it, though someone with mechanical skills could probably do it themselves. Pretty much what you said, but just confirming what other C50 riders have stated. – MalteseYo (note from Mama: thanks for sharing what the Volusia board members are noting and what you chose!)

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Wednesday, June 18

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have an '02 883 Sportster w/ a 1200 conversion. I also got new fenders and tank, had them painted by a local guy. Problem ...This year my liner in the tank came loose and pieces have made it into the carburetor. My bike has been backfiring a lot ever since and now has a knocking in both cylinders (?) I think. I'm sure it's not in the bottom end. Somewhere my boyfriend saw or heard that in a Harley, motor backfiring can mess up something bad. But he doesn't remember what. Any ideas? And any help or input from you or anyone else would be great. Thanks for listening, – MLattimore

Dear MLattimore,
Any time junk gets into a motorcycle's fuel delivery system, it simply can't run as well as originally designed. Gas moves from the tank to the carb where it is mixed with air and then delivered to the engine cylinder via the intake valve. The fuel/air is compressed and then the spark plug ignites the mix, pushing the piston in the cylinder, which then rises and the exhaust valve opens to let burned gases out. This moving diagram on Dan's Motorcycle site gives you a basic view.

Backfiring occurs when the gas/air mix is not fully ignited ... the remains are exhausted, but any unburnt gas hits the hot exhaust pipes where it is then ignited and creates the backfire noise. Knocking is generally associated with the camshaft, which operates the opening and closing of the intake and exhaust valves.

So, if we introduce foreign material into the system, we could be clogging the carb and hampering the right mix of air/fuel. Or, there could be interference with the precise opening and closing of the valves, or at the very worst, a piece can grind it's way into bearings or even between the piston and the cylinder sleeve. This is where long term damage happens.

My first suggestion is to make sure that you've taken care of the internal tank flaking, otherwise you'll just keep adding to the problem. 

Next, turn the gas petcock to Off and locate the carb float bowl drains ... this is a bolt at the very bottom most part of the carb. You'll want to have a container you can drain the carbs into and it will be very evident if you've got crap in the system. If the problem persists, you may need to pull the carbs and have them inspected and cleaned internally and even rebuilt (new seals and such).

At the same time you might want to inspect the gas filter at the petcock or double check if this bike has another inline filter. If small pieces got trapped in the filters, you're not delivering fuel to the carb correctly. It's also possible that something very minute got past the filter and into the fuel line, but I'm hoping it didn't get stuck and made it's way and collected in the carb.

If the problem continues, then I'd be talking to a mechanic about pulling the cylinder heads where the cams and valves are. If a piece of tank got into this area it can eventually cause major damage if not corrected.

Please do not ignore the noises ... they are telling you that the bike needs help. Start with the basics you can do your self and see if that takes care of it. Otherwise get professional work done before you lose the whole engine. – Mama

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Thursday, June 19

Dear VTwin Mama,
A long time ago (might be a year already) I asked for your help about the rays (in French: rayonees) in the rear wheel of my Honda Rebel 125cc. I just wanted you to know that I went to another service point (this time an "official" Honda dealer). He advised me to replace ALL the rays because otherwise the problem (my rays broke all the time) wouldn't stop. Now the problem is gone and the bike runs real good. Greetings, – Ken Dams in Belgium

Dear Ken,
I know that when we initially emailed one another, we were trying to figure out if there was a recall on the rear wheel of the Honda Rebel, but there was no evidence. The rays you speak of, which we in the U.S. call spokes, turned out then, to be the problem. What was happening readers is that one would break and then more. I thought it might be a wheel rim no longer "true to round," but it looks like new spokes and proper tightening and tensioning was the key to this riddle. I'm glad to hear your bike is running well Ken ...  – Mama

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Wednesday, July 2

Dear VTwin Mama,
I have a 2007 V-Star 1100 and recently went on an excursion of about 200 miles R/T. At one stop to cool off and have something cold to drink, the bike was difficult to start and stumbled a bit. I have just over 3,000 miles on the bike, so am a bit puzzled over this dilemma. Also, do you have any input on whether lower deflectors will aid in keeping the wind out of my face on the road when I use my highway pegs? – Paul in Texas

Dear Paul,
Of course in Texas, at this time of year, things are already starting to sizzle in terms of temperatures. I'm wondering if you didn't get a vacuum lock inside the gas tank. This is a Wikipedia article on the subject. How to tell? If it happens again, open up the gas cap, thus bringing the gas tank to normal atmospheric pressure, and see if it clears up. The problem could be in the gas cap or even in one or both of the carburetors, as the carbs have a vent that may be partially blocked by crud that entered into the system. So this is what I would start with in terms of possible causes.

Highway pegs suggest to me that you've got an engine guard/highway bar on that Yami. My idea ... cut out some sturdy cardboard and tape it into position like these Desert Dawgs are shown. The testimonials indicate there is wind relief as well as a reduction in wet leg when it's raining with the installation of a product like this. I bet if you duct taped an old towel (another idea) on one side, you would quickly get your answer! – Mama

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